89 Mk1 N/A Radiator + reservoir cap

[esreveRBackwards]

89 Mk1 N/A Radiator + reservoir cap

[te51levin]

16400-16120 - $360.20 - Radiator assy.
16405-16020 - $18.79 - Reserve tank cap sub-assy.

Quote number is 48916. Thanks!

[esreveRBackwards]

Originally Posted by te51levin

16400-16120 - $360.20 - Radiator assy.
16405-16020 - $18.79 - Reserve tank cap sub-assy.

Quote number is 48916. Thanks!

Why so much for the radiator?

[te51levin]

It's a brand new Toyota radiator, and it costs just as much to make it for a 20+ year old car as it does for a brand new vehicle. I'm not saying it's a great value, but it is what it is...

You might try calling 1(800)RADIATOR. They have pretty good coverage. Also might give NAPA a swipe and see what they have.

[esreveRBackwards]

Originally Posted by te51levin

It's a brand new Toyota radiator, and it costs just as much to make it for a 20+ year old car as it does for a brand new vehicle. I'm not saying it's a great value, but it is what it is...

You might try calling 1(800)RADIATOR. They have pretty good coverage. Also might give NAPA a swipe and see what they have.

I was questioning the price because I have found some other sites offering radiators in the 100 - 150 range. I realize that the part wound/may not be an official Toyota OEM replacement. Being kinda new to car repair what would be the difference?

[te51levin]

Originally Posted by esreveRBackwards

I realize that the part wound/may not be an official Toyota OEM replacement. Being kinda new to car repair what would be the difference?

Quality, fit, longevity. Some aftermarket radiators are very nice. Some are very cheap. The cheap ones are made of cheaper, thinner materials, not soldered as well, not built as carefully, not as accurately jigged for things like brackets and fan mounts. They may work well initially, but typically they won't last anywhere near as long before the fins fall out, or the seams split, or the brackets shake loose, etc.

Do some research into what else is available. Just remember, most cheap things are cheap for a reason - because they are built cheaply.

What did NAPA and 1(800)RADIATOR have to offer?

Actually, why do you want to replace the radiator in the first place?

[esreveRBackwards]

Originally Posted by te51levin

Quality, fit, longevity. Some aftermarket radiators are very nice. Some are very cheap. The cheap ones are made of cheaper, thinner materials, not soldered as well, not built as carefully, not as accurately jigged for things like brackets and fan mounts. They may work well initially, but typically they won't last anywhere near as long before the fins fall out, or the seams split, or the brackets shake loose, etc.

Good to know.

Originally Posted by te51levin

What did NAPA and 1(800)RADIATOR have to offer?

Actually, why do you want to replace the radiator in the first place?

Well.. I had an overheating problem... Changed the thermostat and swapped the water inlet housing because there as a hole in it from crosion . (While changing the thermo I noticed the old thermo was cut to always let water thru.) Bled the system from all 3 points..

I am still overheating. not as bad as before tho. If I drive on the highway 30 miles or so at 70 - 75 mph with the air off but the climate temp slider set to cool, the temp will start climbing past middle around i'd say mile 20.. If I slide the climate temp slider to hot with the air still off the temp will drop back to middle but not for very long and will climb again unless I slow down...

Turning the blower on while on hot extends driving time but I still need to slow down.

The thermo being cut to always let water thru gave me the thought that there was an overheating issue before I bought the car. Both fans run. Water pump is new. Oil is clear and not milky. Only thing I can think is that with the car being 20+ years old is the radiator is partially blocked and coolant is not being cooled correctly.

Would it be a thought to take the radiator out and run some flush thru it? Unno how effective those products are.

[te51levin]

The first thing I would do in your shoes is pressure test the system to make sure you do not have any leaks. Then I'd make sure your filler cap ("radiator cap" in the rest of the world) is fresh and seals properly under pressure and vacuum, and make sure the overflow reservoir cap is good, along with all its hoses.

If things check out so far, I'd do a chemical flush. Following that, I'd fill with water and drain from every drain port (radiator, engine, and pipes under the car) several times until the water runs clear. Then I would replace the thermostat and gasket with a new Toyota part, fill with fresh coolant (preferably red Toyota coolant since you will now have a perfectly clean system with no green coolant left inside), and bleed the air out following the factory procedure. I like to idle the engine with the heater set to the hottest setting while I am burping the system to make sure that the coolant is circulating through the entire system.

Thermostats are one of the parts where OEM seems to be far more consistent and reliable than aftermarket parts, so it worth getting the right one from Toyota. the inconsistent temperature readings you are describing are classic symptoms of an aftermarket thermostat. The same thing goes for the filler cap; aftermarket versions, like Stant, are just not as well made and often do not seal properly or last very long.


Here is your cost through us on those parts, should you choose to replace them:

90916-03090 - $14.87 - Thermostat
16325-63011 - $4.07 - Thermostat gasket
16401-63010 - $11.08 - Coolant filler cap

They're added to the same quote.