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| MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Need Help!
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Winnipeg
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Need Help!
My car doesn't run. I need any suggestions you have for me. I think it needs to be static timed. Can anyone help me with that?
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#2 (permalink) |
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resident GEEK!
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: ...boosting mid-corner
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wow. holy no information to do anything with, batman!
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ToyotaTechGeek For This Useful Post: | 86Mk1 (01-29-2007) |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Lawrenceville, Georgia
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You might want to post what you have done/checked, etc so that the board can help you. There are too many possibilities.
Last edited by MR2Board; 01-29-2007 at 04:38 PM.. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to richw131 For This Useful Post: | 86Mk1 (01-29-2007) |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Need Help!
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Winnipeg
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Oops
Thanks for the replies!
I have changed the oil, replaced collant, checked spark plugs, wires, distibutor is held on tightly by a zip-tie, new battery, cleaned throttle body, 1/4 tank premium fuel, removed alternator/water-pump belt (seized alternator). When turning over, engine backfires a few times and then run for a few seconds. Then it just cuts out. If I give it gas upon starting, it revs to 3000rpm and then dies, sometimes dropping to 1000rpm (same throttle position as given for 3000rpm) and then dying. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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RallyRacer
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Portland, OR
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Hmm... sounds like there could be a lot of things wrong then. What do you mean by the dizzy is held on by a zip-tie? That might be part of your problem there.
Here are some pictures of the cam timing marks for setting static timing: ![]() ![]() Also, you can line up the farthest left notch on the crank pulley (of the three) and if you pull the oil cap off and look at the intake cam, there should be a little detent in the camshaft and it should be pointing straight up. If it doesn't, rotate the crank one full turn and check again. If it still doesn't show, use the pictures above to set your static cam timing. The distributor is a bit harder. Once the engine and cams are at top dead center, pull the dizzy out. If you look down at it in the exact same way it was sitting in the head, there should be a divot in the gear, and a notch, or divot on the housing. These need to be lined up, then re-inserted. It takes a lot of trial and error to get it to go in just right, but then you need to time the ignition. Even if it isn't exactly right, it should still start and and least sputter like crazy. Might have to try advancing or retarding the timing to different points till it does start. Here is a writeup on how to set ignition timing: http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/timing/timing.html Another thing is that the engine computer needs a good 13+ volts to work correctly. You need to get that alternator replaced. I know that if my alternator dies, or on one occasion the belt broke, my car immediately started running like crap, bucking, backfiring, and generally misbehaving. It takes a lot of power to run all the ignition, fuel, and car electrical systems. As soon as the charging system craps out, voltage drops too low and it all goes bonkers. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Need Help!
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Winnipeg
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Thanks. I'll give that a try this weekend.
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#7 (permalink) |
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resident GEEK!
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: ...boosting mid-corner
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yeah, if that dizzy is held-on with a zip tie...i would start there.
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