where can i get some freaking MODs for aw11..?

[pissonlotus]

ok i just got the aw11 about a month ago now...
car runs good tons of funn(for what it is..)
i have been looking MODs for 4age intensively past 2 wks...
all i found was con airfilter..
so once again, i ask you for info/advice...

i noticed that there are many 4age MODs around but not for aw11s, mostly for AEs and TEs, i m guessing its BC, aw11 is MR and AEs are FR..

so which parts can i use from AEs and TEs to gain HP..?
and which parts from 88-89sc aw11 can i add to gain HP..?
is TB from 88 aw11 same as 87 TB..?

i m starting to get stressd BC i wont be able to have 130rwhp n/a aw11 by new year

i have ordered, airfilter, ground volt stablizer, trd brake pads, tokio shocks

i m thinking of getting lowerd springs, i found intrax(1.5 lwr f/r) and eibach(1.0 lwr f/r) which one should i get..?

i m planing to add MODs below pls let me know what you think..(i m new to TOY cars and i m listing MODs below from EXP i have learned from Vtec, so don hate, if i m wrong)

Exhust: i ve decided get exhust from SC aw11 but can not find it anywhere, anyother options..?

bigger TB: possibly from some newer toyota cars..?

HOTTer coil and ign.Wires: which one..?

header: can i use any header for 4age motor or do i have to get one for aw11..? which one to get..?

ECU MOds or any piggybacks so i can tune A/F ratio n stuff...

i understand aw11 is one of best handling car and also undestand i got few option to gain HP w/4age so i m going to turn my aw11 into "Cliff Crwaler" w/ bit of HP Punch..
all i m asking is 150hp at the crank, or 130rwhp am i asking too much..?

[driftmonster]

SEARCH.

[pissonlotus]

yes i did, pls no more of "search" type of reply BC i did...

[pissonlotus]

Originally Posted by driftmonster

SEARCH.

i see you got basic MODs on you aw11..
is your car SC or NA..?
how you lioke your magnaflow muff..? is it for aw11 or did you do custom work to fit..?
what kind of HP is she pumping..?
what about e.t. and 1/8..?

super curious.. thank you inadvance..

[driftmonster]

I meant, The majority of AW11 parts you can find online.

Search, Google for 4age performance parts........or even other boards.

I noticed you post alot of questions that you could answer with a simple search.....So thats why I said Search. lol.

My car is NA for now, I dont plan on doing much to it because the first MK2 that meets my criteria localy is mine

Most the mods I have are listed on my sig or visual on my car.

[MR2TRD1]

I have a headache after reading what you posted. No offense, but usually a well written post gains more response then a bunch of random capital letters and mispelled words. AW11 parts are all over the internet. Just search this board, ebay, google.

Lotus uses Toyota powerplants....so why pissonlotus?

[pissonlotus]

scrry for giving you headach lol
i m halfdrunk half sleep most of time until nextweek ...

so weird i have been looking for part past 2-3 wks (ebay,crig,yahoo,thisforum) but i cant find anything i m looking for... aww thanks anyways guys..

[CpuZapper]

Hey there pissonlotus, I've answered this question a good number of times, so I'm gonna kinda copy and paste things to answer your questions (somewhat in order).

Keep in mind this is all from my experience, and your results may vary.

There are mods for the AW11, but are not nearly as common as hondas. That said, it is also a whole different ballgame as the 4ag was fairly well built and tuned straight from the factory. There isn't a whole lot to be gained.

In regards to intakes, I've yet to find much in the way of prefabb'd stuff. The intake mod I've always recommended is this:

MKI MR2 Write-ups

It definately breathes better than the stock intake, and gives a good amount of noise too. It really improves top end response, though can hurt torque.

There are certainly more parts for the AEs, mostly because they needed more improvement from their factory state IMHO. The biggest gains you will get in an AW11, short of turbo or supercharging, will be in the suspension. Bolt-ons will gain you very little. Unless you've already built the motor to higher compression, big cams, etc. things like swapping throttle bodies are of very little use on the 4ag. The stock TB is already quite large, and flows more than enough for an NA engine. Intake manifolds from AEs have the TB facing the wrong way and aren't of much use. You can go to ITBs, but it's expensive, and you have to get various adapters (which are quite rare). Most electrical parts for an AE will work, but don't expect much gain from them. There are no readily available chip-tunes for the 4ag, and most piggy backs only provide minimal gains.

Yeah... well it's the new year, and 130 whp is a long shot without spending mucho bucks. My NA has cams intake, exhaust, tweaked cam timing, and I managed 99.95 whp. Granted, said motor has a lot of miles, and is now mostly dead.

Air filter (assuming it will fit the aforementioned intake setup will help a bit, and is good for a couple peak hp. The volt stabilizer... well, I've never seen any dyno'd gains from them aside from normal run-to-run deviations. Thoroughly grounding the block to the chassis can make the engine smoother, as the stock ground straps tend to fail over time. The TRD pads are decent, but I prefer Porterfield R4S or EBC Greenstuff. The shocks will most likely make the biggest difference.

I'm running eibach's on my '86 and still enjoy driving on them. I would like to install a full coilover setup, but at this point, there isn't a lot of point as I rarely drive the MR2. Ground control makes a coilover set, as well as the D2s - both of which are reported to be quite good.

These motors behave very differently from a VTEC Honda motor. They don't really respond to mods. Little bits here and there can make improvements, but not as drastically as the Hondas.

Your best bet for exhaust is just something lighter. The stock manifold is more than enough for the power you are looking at making. From the B-Pipe (where the manifold goes from 2 to 1) just use 2 1/4" and make your own exhaust with as few bends and flanges as possible. The weight savings are worth more than the power gained.

Bigger throttle body is a waste of time and effort. It will likely cause poor part throttle drivability and response as the stock one is already rather large.

I've always used the stock coil, and OEM wires and I've never had any problems. I buy my cap and rotor from Toyota too as they fit better than the cheapies they sell at most auto parts stores. When I went to bigger wires, I ordered bulk 10mm magnecore wire (about $20) from Summit Racing and made my own. I eventually went back to OEMs though as I wanted a stock look. The $200 they ask for most aftermarket wires aren't worth the fraction of a horsepower you might gain.

The header is rather specific. You can get a TRD header for an NA but they aren't cheap. It's worth a horsepower or two, and it does shift the power band higher.

130 whp will likely only be acheivable by reworking raising the compression, and adding cams to start, which will require a change in engine management as well if you want to get the most out of it. You could do it the quick and dirty way with either piggy back computers (HKS F-CON, or Apexi S-AFC) or mechanical means (raising fuel pressure), but it will be harder to get it dialed in.

I'm going to paste some previous responses of mine just for reference here:

1. The biggest gain you will get with these cars is in the suspension. Get some Tokico, or Koni adjustable shocks, Eibach pro-kit or ST springs, the High&Tight/Prothane bushings, High&Tight rear swaybar (or if you like oversteer mess around with a new set of front endlinks, and a '92 turbo rear sway - you can also get the suspension techniques front and rear sway kit), a front strut bar, better brake pads (Porterfield R4S, Hawk HPS) and new rotors (don't need slotted or drilled - they're only for bling), stainless brake lines and clutch line, short shift kit, and get some decent rubber on it. I like light 15" wheels, with 205 width sticky tires. I have 16"s on mine, and there's just not enough feel to them. The sidewall is too stiff, and too hard to tell when you're pushing past the envelope. Also, consider a smaller steering wheel like a Momo (11.8" in mine). Lotek makes a gauge pod which covers part of the a-pillar. Not too bad of a piece, but watch out when you're installing it that you don't drill through any of the rubber drain tubes in the body a-pillar (assuming it's a sunroof). Check out Twos R Us - Parts for Toyotas from Club MR2 as they have a lot of this stuff for decent prices. Some people kinda hack a Miata coilover set to make them work, but it worries me that at full unload, there is a gap between the spring and perch. I would really prefer a coilover kit that is designed for this car, and fits correctly (only because my car does occasionally see airtime - blown a few cheap struts too but no springs... like I said, I like the Eibachs).

2. Give the motor a FULL tuneup: flush all the coolant and clean the system out (instructions on www.padandwheels.com); replace plug wires, cap, rotor, and plugs (I reccomend NGK Copper plugs, just the straight copper - they should be changed every other oil change or so, but they will produce better power than that platinum crap); replace all your vacuum lines with new silicone hose, and check everything for leaks w/brake cleaner (it you have a leak, it will rev up); change your gearbox oil to Penzoil Synchromesh or Redline MT or MTL.

3. Do the air filter mod - Get a filter and adapter and a 2" rubber coupler. Connect the AFM straight to the throttlebody, and the filter to the other end of the AFM. *Don't forget to reconnect the idleup lines to the rubber coupler*

4. Take the head off the engine, and polish the little triange shaped areas at the outer area of the combustion chamber between the intake and exhast valves. Also gently break any sharp edges in the CC.

5. Clean up any casting marks in the intake and exhaust ports, and then, if you feel confident enough, gasket match the head and manifolds.

6. Consider a thinner headgasket (you'll have to look around) to bump compression a little Also, you can skim the head, but you'll need a set up adjustable cam gears to bring the lobe centers back to stock, and be able to use the higher compression.

7. With the cams, and everything else, there is a good chance the stock computer will be running lean. If you open the AFM (TRD had a writeup) you can adjust it a couple clicks looser and see if that richens it up enough. Also, consider putting in a potentiometer in line with the coolant temp sensor (should be in the same TRD writeup) to give you some adjustability of A/FR.

8. Look into a Fidanza flywheel and good kevlar clutch - they're not too horribly expensive and will make the car a lot more fun to drive.

Also, upgrading the ECU won't really do anything for you with a stock 20v or 16v motor. Changing fuel and ignition timing may gain 1hp or so, not enough to notice, or make the cost worth it. The only reason to go to a standalone is if you're going to turbo or sc the car, or are going to spend the huge amount of money it costs to make NA power with cams and other head and bottom end modifications. Toyota really did tap most of the available power out of these motors.

TedComponents - ::: Welcome to TED's Compnents ::: - can make you an awesome head and cam setup, but it costs a pretty penny, and will not net you a whole lot unless you want to sacrifice all your bottom end for more top end. The best way to make more power (after you get all your suspension fixed up) is to do a GZE swap and either put on a bigger pulley (NonStopTuning - NST - The Leader In MR2 4AGZE Pulleys) or make it turbo. You get the bottom end grunt and the top end scream.

[E T Haggis]

ya go with a custom exhaust

[pissonlotus]

Originally Posted by CpuZapper

Hey there pissonlotus, I've answered this question a good number of times, so I'm gonna kinda copy and paste things to answer your questions (somewhat in order).

Keep in mind this is all from my experience, and your results may vary.

.

OMG thank you sir you are D Man!!!!...

however..
only 98rwhp for i/h/e, cams, gears, adv. timming..?

awww

i dont know why but i keep comparing 4age to b16b i had(4age is 20yrs old motor i know, i know)...

your post cleared most of the questions...
i m just going to F the engine mods for now and all in for susp. mods...

i still really love how this car handles n cut corners... little disappointed on HP Gain...

4agze swap...
i was thinkin same thing...
if i wanna add HKS cams(350usd each) cam gears(150usd) velve springs n guide(200) racing valves(200) that's 1200usd for parts only...
when 4agze full swap set is only 800-900...

two quick qestions for you...
how does 4agze response to bolt-ons..?
i know that 4azge can handle up to 10psi easily w/stock internals...
so what kind of HP am i looking at w/ 10lb pulley+ airfilter/H/E..?

thank you
once again...

[CpuZapper]

Glad to know I could answer some of your questions.

i dont know why but i keep comparing 4age to b16b i had(4age is 20yrs old motor i know, i know)...

Yeah, the 4ag is based off (almost exact clone) of the Cosworth BDA which is from back in the 70s. It was a futuristic and great motor for its time, but it is a little dated. They do have an amazingly tough bottom end though, considering how light the parts are.

Its rather weak 9.5:1 compression ratio doesn't produce nearly the power that modern +10.5:1 engines do, but it is far less picky about tuning, fuel, temperature, etc. The unfortunate truth is that they're just not very good at being cheap high-horsepower NA engines. Because of their short stroke, they have rather poor bottom end torque too.

The more top end power you build with them, the worse that problem gets as the powerband shifts up. For example, a formula atlantic motor will set you back a good $15k+. It will make around 200-250 flywheel HP, but good luck using it reliably in anything other than a super lightweight open wheel racecar. Better get used to rolling from stoplights @ 6k RPM and eating clutches for lunch.

however..
only 98rwhp for i/h/e, cams, gears, adv. timming..?

My 99 whp is pretty good compared to most stock MR2s. A good 15 hp gain. Overall I've only invested a couple hundred bucks into the intake, gears, exhaust, and cams (found them in a free motor with a blown rod bearing) so I never really worried about how far my money went.

your post cleared most of the questions...
i m just going to F the engine mods for now and all in for susp. mods...

Great idea - it's usually what I recommend first anyway. No sense trying to make big power and carve corners if your car handles like a ford festiva That's seems to be the usual reason why people dog the MR2 - so many people try to make big power without the supporting mods, then crash, and say that the car is poorly designed when in reality they just didn't consider that they were overpowering the brakes, shocks, tires, etc.

4agze swap...
i was thinkin same thing...
if i wanna add HKS cams(350usd each) cam gears(150usd) velve springs n guide(200) racing valves(200) that's 1200usd for parts only...
when 4agze full swap set is only 800-900...

two quick qestions for you...
how does 4agze response to bolt-ons..?
i know that 4azge can handle up to 10psi easily w/stock internals...
so what kind of HP am i looking at w/ 10lb pulley+ airfilter/H/E..?

Yeah, buying name brand parts gets expensive. That's why I buy whatever does the same thing, but as a generic part (grassroots motorsports FTW!). Unless you go to a big lift cam, you won't need springs, valves, guides, etc. The stock parts are more the up to the task. Valve float won't happen till about the time your rods let go. Anyways, the dollar/HP is rather pathetic. The intake is still a great quick and easy mod, and I suggest it to almost every MR2 owner who doesn't mind washing filters every couple weeks.

As to the 4AGZE, a stock motor is about 50 hp more stock (@8 psi). I have a whole other giant post about the SC motors. Let me find it...

PASTED

I have never heard of, seen, or even know on what planet you would need to be on for the SC-12 (supercharger on a SC MK1) to make +200whp unless you're on the bottle.

Non-SC cams from an '85-'86 will give you a couple HP, but not much.

If you are doing auto-x, a SPAL fan under the intercooler will help with heatsoak some, but if you are doing track racing, it has been tested by a good number of well respected MR2 folks that the fan will actually restrict the airflow at highspeeds. The engine bay is designed to move air up through the vents at +50ish mph. You can put strings on the grill, and watch as you come up to speed. At first they will lay down or go all over the place, but as you come over 50mph, they will begin to stand straight up off of the vent. The problem is is that it is hot air. You should consider installing an air-to-water intercooler setup if cold intake charge is your concern.

The injectors that are in your car now are perfectly sized for the power that the SC-12 can make. They will even work with a turbo up to about 240 Flywheel HP at 60psi fuel pressure. Going with a bigger fuel pump (Walbro 255LPH) will overrun the stock FPR and you will end up with a really rich mixture. Too rich to make good power.

An exhaust will not net you much on the SC at normal power levels. Toyota claims that the free flowing exhaust they installed on the AE111 over the AE110 gave it 5 hp, but it would have to be pretty restrictive to do that. The AE110/111 engine has a smaller pulley on the Supercharger itself (10 psi), and is 8.9:1 compression (170 fwhp) instead of 8.0:1 like the US 4AGZE (145 fwhp). You can get the TRD header which is nice bling, and might give you a couple hp, and you can get rid of the stock muffler and cat. The biggest gain you will get with the exhaust is to make it as light as possible since the weight savings will give better performance than the HP gained from a header back exhaust.

You can install the speedchaser pulley on the SC if you can find one. It is basically the JDM pulley IIRC and bumps to 10 psi. You can also look into crank pulleys. They will spin the water pump faster too, but it's not that big of a deal unless you plan to spend all day +5K rpm. I've always reccomended Non-Stop Tuning's pulleys as they make the biggest one you can get. Their 180mm kit basically maxes out the SC-12 at around 13.5 psi (depending on temp, IC heatsoak, boost leaks, etc). And yes, you will definately need to do the ABV bypass mod (I have vacuum diagrams if you want) if you want to up the boost with pulleys over 8psi.

There isn't a whole lot for the rear gear set on the E-51 SC transmission. I've never actually heard of, or attempted to put in a different ratio, as first is already too short for the car, and fifth leaves you cruising at a pretty high RPM even with the E-51's taller gears. I do know that you can stuff in an LSD for a MK2 Turbo transmission - E-153 I think - (you just need to swap speedometer drive gears) as they are the same gearset, just a different case.

There is no ECM/PCM drop-in tune available for the 4AGZE ecu. There are piggybacks that will work OK (HKS F-Con) and several companies in Japan offered custom retuned ECUs (Mines, TOMs I think too) but they are for the JDM 4AGE (non-SC). You can go to a standalone system if you feel like doing some wiring, and then you have to figure out how to trigger the SC, and all the valves and solenoids that operate it. It's easier to stay with the SC computer and go turbo if you want to make over 200hp. I have seen many F-Con setups for a turbo'd 4AGZE, and I know the stock ECU can handle upwards of 14psi without problems. Getting rid the the ~50hp parasitic drag of the SC and still providing the same boost from a turbo can make a heck of a difference. You'll lose some low end grunt, but the top end will make up for it.

EDIT: Here is the site for Non-Stop Tuning:
NST - The Leader In MR2 4AGZE Pulleys

And here is the ABV Mod:
http://www.mr2board.com/forums/93595...MR2-post5.html

[mr220v]

If you're looking to stay NA, a 4age 20v blacktop gets you 165hp to the crank. You can pick them up fairly inexpensively these days. $800 or so.

People spend thousands building up and tuning a 16v to do what a 20v does from the factory.

If you wanted more than what the 20v's offer NA, you could always do a 2zzge, but that would cost a good bit more.

[E T Haggis]

Originally Posted by mr220v

If you wanted more than what the 20v's offer NA, you could always do a 2zzge, but that would cost a good bit more.

how much we talkin there

[mr220v]

For a 2zzge, the engine alone would be $1500-$2000 usually. A very good option, but not really a budget swap.

[E T Haggis]

so if you have some cash burning a hole in you pocket get it but otherwise just stick to the silver/blacktop

[CpuZapper]

Unless you want more than 165 flwhp, then you have to go forced induction.

[canadam]

Eric's Paddock is a great site for a learning MKI owner, IMO.

[mr220v]

Originally Posted by CpuZapper

Unless you want more than 165 flwhp, then you have to go forced induction.

Pretty much. You're going to hit a wall with what 1.6L NA is capable of. You might get a 20v to 180-185flwhp streetable with a good bit of extra expense and an aftermarket ecu.

I guess part of it just depends on what you're willing to put up with in a street driven car.

[E T Haggis]

you realy dont need much for these cars considering there not a heavy car right

[pissonlotus]

i m new to midship runabout so let me also ask you this question..
i m mainly from FF cars (except for my mkII rx7 gtu i had back in the day)
so i can guess the 1/4 times of FF FR car..

100rwhp w/2400lb like miata stock will it high 15s

100fwhp w/2400lb like DA integra w/non vtec b18b will freaking do high 15s(if he is lucky,) and usually do 16s.. and some 17s..

1 so what kind of E.T would 100rwhp 2400lb (low 70000 miles)aw11 n/a (w/cams,cam gears, I/E, like CPuzappers' set up, but with low milege 4age) do..?

2 cpuzapper, have you ran the E.T. w/ your aw11..?

i was reading lastnight and i learnned that aw11 S/C w/140rwhp(airfilter n bigger pulley) would do low 14s to mid 14s..

3 so if i m able to put out 120rwhp w/aw11 whould i break 15s..? or atleast low 15s..?

4 what's the highest lifting cams you can get w/ stock internals and ECU w/4age..?

i m in dillema i got enough $$ to add IHE+beef up head w/ 265 cams but not enough to get motor swap(BC of labor cost)...

what to do what to do....

sorry for messy post, i m not that telented on writing and plus i m freaking drunk now..

PS by the way i had my first MR spun exprience(w/17X7 wheels) lastnite when raining(thank god i didn do any demege) i learned that aw11 requires much quicker reaction time when tail startin to tripp than FRs... gotta be more careful..
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