Tranny Issues

[LSG2007]

In my 89 mk1 I have an automatic and the a$$hole i got it from kinda screwed me over by leading me to think it just had a busted rear engine mount because the engine would shift itself forward when put into gear, sounded logical, ended up being the casing on the rear of the tranny had a chunk busted off! I have a 5spd that i am planning on putting in it and i would like to know if there needs to be any modifications done to the wiring or anything at all. I know that i will need new cv axel and what not. I am new to the Mr2 thing and so far i am loving it but still ignorant to this.

[blakecj7]

These are not my steps they are from another AW11 owner.

Automatic transmission to manual transmission (1985 -86 MkI)

Extra tools I had to buys in addition to my normal hand tools:
Toyota Repair Manual or Haynes manual
10 mm deep socket
12 mm deep socket
14 mm deep socket
30 mm socket ½-inch drive (for axle nuts)
10 mm and 12 mm hydraulic nut wrenches
Drill bit (5/16)
A second hydraulic jack

PARTS I REMOVED FROM THE PARTS CAR Two 1985s, and one 1987) :
1. 5-speed transmission (which includes the shift lever on the transmission [selecting bell crank assembly: #3590F & control shift lever: # 33527] and reverse switch: # 84210) (Note: Use a transmission from an 85 or 86 if you have a 85 or 86 MR2. Sometime in 1987 they changed the transmission and I think the mounting point for the rear transmission mount may have changed.). Also need clutch release fork: #31240, clutch release bearing assembly: #31230, release fork ball: # 31236,
and clutch release fork boot: # 31126.
2. Flywheel (may need resurfacing) (Note the early 1985 MR2s have a smaller diameter flywheel and clutch)
3. Master cylinder assembly: # 31410 (consider purchasing a new one)
4. Slave cylinder assembly: # 31470 (consider purchasing a new one)
5. There are five sections of hydraulic lines from master cylinder
to slave cylinder and one section for the slave cylinder bleeder.
A. Hydraulic line from the master cylinder to the 90 degree angle fitting: # 31481
B. 90 degree angle fitting between the "L-shaped" line and the
long hydraulic line that's beneath the car: # 31481B
C. Clips between long hydraulic line and the line near the slave
cylinder that attach the line to the body
D. Flexible hydraulic line: # 31481A
E. Short hydraulic line between flexible line and slave cylinder: # 31482
F. Hydraulic line for slave cylinder bleeder: # 31407
6. Transmission control cable/Slave cylinder mounting bracket for shift cables that bolts onto the
transmission: # 33823 & 33826A
7. Rear transmission mounting bracket (May be the same used
on the auto(?))
8. Left and right drive shafts from a car with manual
transmission (the drive shafts on the automatic transmission
has a smaller constant velocity joint hub and the bolt pattern of the hub won't fit the manual transmission)
9. Shift lever, knob and mounting bracket
10. Shift lever boot (including the rectangular wire)
11. Shift cables (check for wear)
12. Rubber seal for shift cables through firewall (Grommet: # 33821A, Dust retainer: # 33574F)
13. Brake pedal from manual transmission car
14. Clutch pedal assembly: # 31301, and mounting bracket: # 31305
15. All the nuts, bolts, and clips that held all this stuff together
16. Instrument panel and plastic part around it to get rid of the
ECT switch (Although you might want to keep the switch for
other purposes) and add the volt meter that's on the M/T
car's instrument panel
17. ECU from the same year M/T car (1985 and 1986 are the
same. I kept getting error codes when I used an ECU from a
1987 MKI.) NOTE: I have been informed that the A/T ECU will work with the manual
transmission without any problems

NEW PARTS I BOUGHT:
1. Clutch pressure plate
2. Clutch disc
3. Throwout bearing
4. Transmission fluid
5. Hydraulic brake fluid
6. Electrical connectors
7. Cotter pins for the drive shafts
8. Rear transmission rubber isolator (Good time to inspect/replace all isolators for wear/tears)

[blakecj7]

The auto MR2 has almost all the attachment points for the conversion already in place. All you have to drill is two holes to mount the clutch pedal bracket and the larger hole for the master cylinder. Fortunately, one of the two panels that make up the firewall already has the master cylinder hole punched out. You just have to drill out the second panel to the same diameter.
You need to do a little rewiring to connect the back up light and bypass the start-in-neutral/park wiring used in the auto transmission. I strongly recommend that you take the parts off a parts car or remove the parts yourself from a pick-your-own-parts place. It's difficult for me to describe how to install the hydraulic lines. You have to do it yourself to figure out how to remove them (and replace them on your car) without unbolting and removing a lot of other components. There are four sections of hydraulic lines. The line that connects to the master cylinder and the long section that travels beneath the car take a lot of manipulation to install.

1. Disconnect and remove battery
2. Remove spare tire, spare tire support tubing (10 mm bolts)
steel hoop and plastic that covers the hydraulic lines in front
trunk
3. Drain antifreeze
4. Drain transmission fluid (optional)
5. Remove driver's seat
6. Remove steering wheel (one screw holds the center section to
the wheel and a 17 mm nut holds the steering wheel to the
steering column)
7. Remove paneling beneath steering wheel and triangular panel
next to door hinge
8. Loosen rear wheel nuts
9. Place car on jack stands (? inches) The higher the better, but
remember that you have to work on the car from the top and
the bottom
10. Remove brake pedal and install pedal from the manual
transmission car (hard to do because of limited access)
11. Drill three holes through fire wall (2 for the mounting bracket,
one large one for the master cylinder)
11. Install clutch pedal and mounting bracket (two nuts and one
bolt 12 mm?) (hard to do because of limited access)
a. Electrical connection? (Cruise control switch/starter
switch - I didn't hook mine up because I don't use the
cruise control)
12. Install master cylinder
13. Connect master cylinder to clutch pedal
14. Install short metal hydraulic line (with rubber seal and
fittings) (hard)
a. Disconnect bracket for air conditioning tubing
b. Disconnect hydraulic brake line (top to front left brake)
c. "90 degree" connector for hydraulic lines (10 mm bolt)
15. Remove front suspension bracket
16. Remove plastic covers beneath car
17. Install the long metal hydraulic line (hard)
a. Unbolt water line bracket
b. Unbolt air conditioner line bracket
c. Remove brake line bracket
d. Remove cross bracket under car
e. Support gas tank with a floor jack
f. Unbolt clips holding the brake line (10 mm)
g. Remove cotter pins holding gas tank
h. Start long hydraulic line at the front near the left
suspension (tape up ends of the lines to protect the
threads
i. Gently bend/bow line downward at the center to create
enough clearance for the line to rear frame member and
rear portion of gas tank
18. Reconnect clips that hold the brake and clutch lines
19. Connect hydraulic line to "90 degree" connector
20. Reattach water and air conditioner brackets
21. Replace gas tank cotter pins, tighten bolts holding brackets
22. Reattach brake brackets
23. Replace two middle plastic shielding (leave last section off)
24. Remove Automatic shift cable bracket
25. Remove center console and rear cubbyholes
26. Remove four plastic plug holding carpet behind seats
27. Remove bracket that supports center console rear trays and
hold down carpet
28. Unbolt shift lever bracket
29. Unplug electrical connector
30. Unbolt plastic shielding on engine side of firewall (10 mm nut,
10 mm bolt, 10 mm screw)
31. Disconnect shifter cable from transmission
32. Unbolt metal cap (two 10 mm bolts) bolted to firewall
33. Pull rubber seal towards engine compartment
34. Push out shifter cable and rubber seal into driver
compartment

[blakecj7]

35. Remove exhaust system
a. Unbolt three nuts that bolts the exhaust manifold to
flexible downpipe
b. Unbolt two bolts holding exhaust assembly
c. Unbolt two bolts holding muffler near tailpipe
d. Push exhaust assembly towards left rear to detach from
car

36. Install left drive shaft and Right drive shaft
a. Remove rear wheels
b. Remove 10 mm nuts holding drive shafts to transmission
c. Remove cotter pins from nuts on end of drive shaft
d. Remove serrated cap
e. Remove drive shaft nut (30 mm)
f. Wire drive shaft upwards out of the way
g. With a rubber mallet, tap on drive shaft ends to remove
drive shafts

37. Remove Air Intake and AFM

38. Emission controls removal
a. Remove thermostat body

39. Unbolt transmission from engine
a. Use two floor jacks; one under engine pan and one under
the transmission

40. Unplug electrical connecters to transmission

41. Unbolt the three transmission mounts

42. Lower Transmission/engine
a. The transmission should separate and slide off (Be
careful! the auto transmission is heavy)
b. Unbolt starter gear and other items used for the auto
transmission

43. Install flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate
a. flywheel and (new) bolts
b. clutch plate (new)
c. pressure plate (new) and bolts
d. throw-out bearing (new)

44. Install manual transmission

45. Install rear Transmission/frame rubber mount (new)

46. Seal transmission fluid cooler lines. There are two lines from the cooling system
to the automatic transmission that can be plugged.

47. Install slave cylinder and bracket
a. slave cylinder
b. short flexible hydraulic line
c. two short metal hydraulic lines (from flexible line to slave
cylinder/slave cylinder to bleeder)

48. Electrical connections
a. rewire cruise control
b. wire clutch start switch
c. rewire backup light

49. Install manual shift system
a. Sifter plus bracket
b. shift knob
c. two shifter cables
d. shift boot
e. center console

50. Remove and replace combination meter (instrument panel)
a. Remove steering wheel hub (one screw)
b. Remove steering wheel (17 mm nut)
c. Remove triangular panel near dead pedal (10 mm nut)
d. Unscrew hood release latch (screw)
e. Remove lower panel beneath steering wheel (unplug
mirror switch)
f. Remove headlight and wiper levers and unscrew aluminum
nuts (17 mm?)
g. Remove screws to combination meter frame
h. Remove top cover
i. Slowly pull frame away from meter and carefully unplug
connectors
Unscrew ___
Wiper indicator light
Door open indicator light (hardest to remove)
j. Unplug speedometer cable
k. Unplug the three electrical connectors
l. Unplug ECT switch

51. Remove A/T ECU and replace with M/T ECU (Optional as the A/T ECU will work
for the manual transmission)

52. Refill fluids (coolant, transmission, etc.)

53. Replace battery and hook up power

[blakecj7]

This is how I rewired a 1986 AT engine bay harness. I used connectors to preserve the wiring just in case I wanted to convert back to the automatic transmission.

[LSG2007]

wow you have no idea how much i appreciate that! luckily im not a complete dumbass and am able to do all of this in my garage. thank you again!

[canadam]

Nice writeup!

[E T Haggis]

could this somehow be a sticky post

[LSG2007]

it was until yesterday. i got a pm that said it was becoming "unsticky." dunno why. it was only on there for a week or so.

[E T Haggis]

ohhhh

[LSG2007]

yeah sounds like a load of $hit that they made it Un-Sticky...good thing i already saved everything on my computer.