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MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE.

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Old 04-07-2008, 07:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Shift Boot

I'm attempting to replace the shift boot, but the top always falls straight down - revealing the two bolts under it.

There is a square, metal bracket that the shift boot is sewn to. Can I assume this bracket is suppose to have clips of some sort to keep it from falling down?

Here you can see the gap.


Another angle of the gap.


The square bracket is under the shift boot, you can see the outline of it.


Does anyone have any bright ideas on getting it to stay where it should?
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i dont see any pics, wait nvm i see them
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i beleive that mine was screwed in from the previous owner or it had little clips im now sure
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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There are clips on the underside of the center console plastic. If yours doesn't have any then they are probably broken.

You could use a strong tape to hold the shift boot on, but removing it will be a pain.
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Well I'm replacing it now in hopes I won't have to do it again for a long time. The problem with the tape theory is how am I to tape it from the top end when the tape would be required on the inside to make it hold?

I do have a portion of a clip towards the driver's side that is still intact. I doubt it from the looks of the broken plastic, but are these clips replaceable?
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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dude why is your ac switches so high up?
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Old 04-08-2008, 02:05 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Our nights are still average of 30-40 degrees, and I usually don't have the air on. Or I have the hot air on with the sunroof up to circulate the air around .

Also back onto my shift boot replacement, how do I remove the stock shifter knob in my MKI? There are no screws, no bolts, nothing pops off. It seems like the shift knob was built around the shaft. I need to remove the shift knob to properly install the new shift boot without stretching it too much.



Edit: I actually find a write-up on it. It is easier to remove the entire console + clean everything up to make it more professional looking than going from the top. This will also allow me to either tape and/or glue it on. Apparently I just didn't try turning hard enough with the shift knob b/c that's how it is suppose to come out.

Last edited by Timon; 04-08-2008 at 02:56 AM..
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Old 04-08-2008, 05:17 AM   #8 (permalink)
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you have taken the center rest out right.? and gotten a view from underneath
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:35 AM   #9 (permalink)
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That's what I'm doing in a few hours. I'm also most likely going to follow another step I found, which is to staple the boot to the metal bracket. I attempted sewing it, but the thread I have was far too thin, and I lost my needle... As you can tell I'm not very good at sewing.
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Complete.
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Old 04-26-2008, 06:09 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Yep, the wire hoop is the key to a successful reboot. (computer joke?)

The wire hoop is held in place by the plastic clips at the bottom of the console cutout hole. In theory it may work but....

Just finished this repair for the 5th time on my racecar adding a new boot for the sale.

quick repair; w console upside down put your new boot in the hole
put the wire hoop inside the boot
hold in place with small heavy weight
use automotive goop to tack in place (use liberally)
after 24 hrs remove weight and goop heavily again
wait 24 hrs to cure

I'd attach photos but I don't know how to in this club format.

You can do it Dude!!

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