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MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE.

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Old 04-09-2008, 07:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question about clutch master cyl

Hey guys, My clutch master cylinder is about shot (no resistance when depressing but currently still works) However a new master cylinder is going to run me around $100 I dont have the extra cash right now to spend on that however I can get a scrap yard fix (should get me thru a month when I will have the cash) for around $15 I was wondering if I am limited to my year of mr2 for this part and if this part might have been crossed used on other toyota's.


I have a 88 NA, The biggest reason I ask is because autozone tells me I need one from an 88-89 but checker auto says it doesnt matter so im not sure who to trust on this lol

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance guys and gals!
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Old 04-10-2008, 04:18 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Why dont you get a rebuild kit? ont last for ever but thats what i did
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Old 04-12-2008, 09:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
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ty mista 2, didn't even think about that one lol. Much cheaper $15-19+ tax
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Old 04-13-2008, 12:25 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Have you bled the clutch system?
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Old 04-13-2008, 07:20 AM   #5 (permalink)
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mine only cost $15 but i am in australia so i didnt think it would be too important to add that do you have a heavy duty clutch? if so i would just keep an eye out for an upgraded master cyl as mine looks as if it is on the way out again after 2 years. $50 in total for me so i was happy with 2 years out of it.

BTW for anyone that needs to know, some of the corolla MS's are the same (thats what i have in ATM)

Last edited by Mista 2; 04-13-2008 at 07:20 AM.. Reason: adding more info
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Old 04-14-2008, 06:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Gairloch yeah I have and same issue plus it squeaks (groans) when I engage the clutch (can only hear it with car off cuz cars too loud once running) so I am just going to try the rebuild kit. TY for the suggestion tho.

Mista, stock oem clutch havent had the extra cash to get aftermarket clutch looking @ a nice trd set tho.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Your description doesn't make any sense. If you weren't getting any resistance at all then there's no way that it would be able to flex the pressure plate.

When a cylinder starts to fail what it'll do is let the fluid past it's seals so pumping seems to build pressure but it'll still leak down.

How do you know it's the master cylinder and not the slave cylinder?

How did you go about bleeding it?
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I can try bleeding it again I guess, How i did it the first time was I loosened the bleeder screw near the slave cyl and had a freind pump the clutch while I looked for fluid and kept the res filled inbetween pumping the clutch pedal.

I beleive thats correct however if its not please let me know what i am doing wrong.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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let me try to clarify the spongyness I am talking about a normal (good) clutch pedal will have some resistance and will bounce back out mine will return but it doenst have the resistance i can feel from other clutches. mabey that makes more sense.

oh and the sound im talking about comes from the front under hood

Last edited by lsgheero; 04-14-2008 at 07:21 PM.. Reason: needed to add more
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Old 04-26-2008, 04:58 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Dude, my last slave new cost $32 new in South Florida?

Expect to bleed as much as 3 cans thru the system at times.

HINT: the clutch bleed location sucks huh?
Try loosening the line from the holder assembly where all the shifter cables locate by undoing the u-clip.
Loosen this same line from the slave and reposition up insted of down.

Now you can bleed the system without ever going under the car again.

Need pics? give me a an e-mail. No problem.

Don't ignore noises on this car.
After 19 years I can hear what is failing before it drops off the car.

Keep on shiftin'

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