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| MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
Posts: 120
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MK1 good deal or not?
Ok, I found a dealer in the maple lake area selling a mk1 N/A mr2 with about 147k miles on the clock. The bodys in fair condition with some rust forming in the undercariage. The engine bay and cab are pretty dirtty but nothin a good scrub down cant fix. car runs well but A/C dont work, thers a problem with the wipers not goin down all the way and there is somethin creekin in the front left strut wich he claims he replaced but then found out that the top strut bearing was goin out as well wich means they will have ta pull it out again just ta replace that??? He wants $2,700 for it or around that price. I have not talked him down yet. Now he claims it gets around 40MPG wich I think might be possible thinkin my full body corolla and prizm got 30-35. Dunno for sure though. My plans for it is an every day gas saver and swap tires for track user deal. Basically a sports beater! Most likely keep her N/A. Some opinions please? And comments on what are the most common things ta look out for when I go give her a second run before deciding. Im not in no rush though as I am still on a look out for a N/A mk2 as I have planed. But what I have heard is that if you can control an mk1 the mk2 comes as a breeze ta drive. Is it true?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Original Owner.....almost
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Antonio, TX
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Every local market is different, but I would say that $2,700 for a MK1 n/a MR2 with 147K in the condition you described is about $2,200 too much. The a/c and suspension problems could cost you another grand or two to fix. 40MPG sounds inflated to me. The window sticker for my '85 MR2 indicates that it was rated at 27 City and 32 Hwy. My MR2's (stock 5 speed 144K miles) mpg echos those figures plus or minus a couple of miles per gallon.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
Posts: 120
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That means the cars worth $500? I know its steep in pricing but there aint no way in hell he would sell it for 500. There aint no way in hell I would sell it for that much. Im defenetly gonna talk him down if I do consider it though. I really dont think u can buy one that runs good with the same amount of miles for 500 unless its an automatic maybee. Or if ofcourse you get a little lucky. Maybee I should just stick to the mk2 then!
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#4 (permalink) |
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three mk1's
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: NC
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I picked up an 88 N/A in Georgia with 108K on the clock, original everything except for a minor fender bender that caused the door and front fender to be replaced... ran Great with No problems at all, aside from some minor suspension noise... $2,300 bucks and I'd buy it again any day of the week for that. Interior was borderline perfect (small crack in door panel), paint was faded (but we do paint/body work ourselves), everything worked, and everything was there. Even the spare tire cover, sunroof shade, etc. That car you're looking at may need new bushings ($100), struts ($200-400), and other things like that if they haven't been replaced... find out if they know if the timing belt, water pump, etc were replaced/when... make sure there is no transmission grinds or 5th gear popout... and look out for that rust (rust is not our friend, be especially careful to check this out VERY thoroughly considering your location... I'm in the south (NC) so salt isn't put out on our roads very often, and I didn't have to worry about that when I got the Georgia car for sure). Until earlier today I would have said I don't buy cars with any rust on them... but I just told a guy I'd give him $600 bucks on Tuesday for a beater 87 Supra and broke my own rule as it has a scoche on the fender lip of the passenger rear. This seller's mileage estimate seems a little high, but then again, if you baby the car it might get around that... I freely admit to thrashing my N/A as that's how I get my kicks
. I do not get 40 MPG... only slightly better than my modified S/C, but I drive the N/A almost constantly at higher RPM to keep it in the power band (with the TVIS butterflies opened up). I tend to disdain the TVIS system and want those runners open 24/7 personally... some other folks swear by it and other local mk1 owners almost got mad at me when I started bad mouthing it because they love it for the fuel mileage savings, so to each his own in that regard. I think my S/C averaged 31 with the previous owner driving the car (I get several MPG less as I like to push down the pedal on the right kinda frequently) and my N/A gets a little better than my S/C does now... so I'd estimate he's definately a bit high on MPG even if you baby the car. I did one check and was getting 36 from my N/A I think... but that included a good bit of interstate driving. When it comes to the handling of a mk1... just imagine a go kart on crack with body panels and you're there. Will put a smile on your face any time you find a curve filled road (as long as it isn't winter up there... doesn't sound so fun then, lol). You feel the road, and it is a lighter car than the mk2 so it isn't as smooth or refined, but man is it fun! The shorter wheel base makes them a bit more to handle, but once you get the hang of them, I'd think driving the mk2 would be somewhat less demanding and more refined/comfortable. I've been keeping an eye out for a good mk2 locally to go along with my 3 mk1's and seem to always just miss them. All my close friends have mk2's and one has both a mk2 and a mk3... I ride in or drive them pretty frequently and they are fun cars... but I'll keep my mk1's thank you .Oh, and $500 sounds kinda low for a running car... I know the rust cuts into the price quite heavily but that much?? Really??? I suppose it depends partly on how bad the rust is. I sold a fair condition mk2 shell with a blown motor that was a former flood damage/salvage car (didn't know this when I bought the shell for the same price... then the title arrived and presto, flood car/salvage... argh!!! heathens!!!). Pulled the door panel and looked inside and saw where the water mark had been (high enough to screw with electronics, eww), and that was enough for me and I sold the car to a really nice young guy in Michigan that restored it very well and who said "everything up there has holes in it... this rust is nothing... you should see my other MR2." My most recent mk1 purchcase was a freebie 86 rolling shell hardtop car that had at some point been turned into a race car and then the drivetrain was pulled... all exterior lights in place... stocker triangles... 20% interior there, pretty good dash pad and good seats that just need a cleaning, clean title, three extra 4age heads, extra spoiler, etc. In all it cost me $80 bucks total so far... gas to tow it home was rediculous for an F150!! Last edited by curvesrgood; 06-07-2008 at 07:38 PM.. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
Posts: 120
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Well thats pretty tight you own all those mr2s. IDK what I will talk him down to but so far it looks like it wont be worth my time unless I get it for around 1,200. it does have some rust wich I dont care that much about for what im gonna use it for but yeah I guess I will just hold off and see if he lowers the price then talk him down from that. Itll give me some time to see if there is anything out there better anyways! Thanks
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#6 (permalink) |
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Dreaming of apexes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Steve, from what you describe I wouldn't pay more than half of what the guy is asking for the car either. What he's asking is almost what you should be seeing for a Mk II NA in reasonably good shape. For a Mk I that needs work right off the bat ... no way.
I call on the 40 mpg too. Either he's using some really funky math or he's lying. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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1st!
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Mass
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thats similar to the one i got minus some of the rust. only the price was 1,700 cheaper. do some research on what you would have to do to it, and how much it will cost. if you research enough you can cut alot of corners.
mine had bad tires and shot exaust. i basically shopped around and managed to get nice yokohama's for 200 shipped, installed, and ballenced. I did the downpipe, cat, and muffler myself and spent less than 230$ on a full exaust overhaul. start looking into bushings, struts, and anything else you can think of to improve the car right now. use the shopping link in google to find alot of different products fast. go from there and check reviews of the products and the sites you would be buying it off of. the undercarraige rust would be hard to fix, but i've heard of a sprayon rust treatment that converts the rust to a plastic polymer coating. 40 is a number used to spark your interest. i would listen to the other users, just consider getting 32 max, and if you like accelerating fast like me... well, just dont think of that gas milage.. i'd say shoot for alot lower, if he doesnt take it, just be on the lookout for the next mr2 that pops on the radar... i would have been alot worse off if i bought the first mr2 i really wanted haha |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
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Yeah, Ive been thinkin I might not go with the deal but I am gonna wait till he drops the price and then go of of that. See if I can get it for 1,200 the most if that.
I also doubted it got that great of gas mileage but I am kinda fonfused on how my more portly corolla can manage 35 and the mr2 cant reach 35??? Is it performance reasons? I should print the discusion of this board and bring it ta him. Itll make him feel stupid for selling it at that high of a price. Or itll make him drasticaly drop the price. Or maybee both.![]() |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Supreme!
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 658
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if an MKI can get 40 MPG there's no use for hybrids
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#10 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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You're on track...
with offering no more than $1200. $500 is ridiculously low (I know those deals pop up now and again but it's not realistic). If it has some suspension and rust issues I wouldn't pay more than what you're thinking. How is the interior? If it's intact and in good shape that's a big plus. I paid $1350 for my 85 n/a and since then have replaced the following: front inner tie rod, alignment, right rear wheel bearing/hub, rear e-brake cables, pad on center console, new disc pads all 4 wheels, O2 sensor, igniter (used) and put Spyder wheels and a front strut bar on it (not necessary costs) so I'm in for about $1950 or so and really love my car. As for mileage, 40 is completely out of whack--I get about 28-29 around town and up to 33 on the freeway. Happy motoring!
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Dreaming of apexes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Quote:
I know if a buyer brought me a sheaf of paper containing an interwebz discussion trying to make me feel dumb I'd just tell 'em to stuff it where the sun don't shine then raise the price of the car for them. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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RAR!
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Arizona
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I concur with the 40 MPG thing at least on my car anyway (mind you this is babying it)
recent MPG test as of a few days ago.... Topped off last thursday drove 111 miles. Filled up last night it took 2.8?? gallons. 111/2.8 = 39.6 So its possible if you baby the car. This was a mix of stop and go city traffic and a small amount (id say 12 miles) freeway @ 65mph. In town I do the speedlimit nothing more. Peeps hate it but i saves gas lol ![]() I also shift @ 3-3.5k as much as possible and drive in 5th whenever possible only downshifting to pass or get more power. I do regular maintenance on my car as well which prolly helps. I change the oil/filter/air filter monthly regardless of mileage unless of course I need to change it sooner then monthly . I change plugs every 3 months and wires every 6. I replace the rotor every year. I check my tires weekly for pressure. (but i live in az where it gets REALLY HOT) another reason for monthly oil change ![]() EDIT: I also never use my A/C, and i agree with the rest of these guys driving this car the way it was ment to be driven I average about 33 MPG. Last edited by lsgheero; 06-17-2008 at 10:51 PM.. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
Posts: 120
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Hahahaha, OMG. For sure!
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
Posts: 120
Thanks: 2
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Quote:
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#15 (permalink) |
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The Dragon King
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Knoxville, Tn
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I bought my 87' for $1200 w/ 153,000 on it. Drives GREAT! NO rust and I get about 35mpg city. I would give no more than a $1000 for the one your looking at. Look around more.
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#16 (permalink) |
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RAR!
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Arizona
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wow it that original TAN lol. not a fan of the colour but WOWOW. Oh i think i notice some white residue stuff in the interior pic on the driver door opener lever thing :P
use very very fine sand paper it will come right off and look as good as new! if i am wrong and its fine well in the event anyone else has that prob now they know how to fix it :P |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Legendary
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Farmington Hills, MI
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For me to spend $2000 on an mki, it would have to be in pristine condition.
I spent $500 on mine, but it's got rod knock. I expect to put just over $2000 into my car, and I'll have a blacktop 20v, nice wheels and tires, and fresh paint. |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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The Dragon King
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Knoxville, Tn
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