e-brake!!!

[brantgraves]

is having problems.
it just flat does not work.
where should i start looking ?

[muffinman]

Originally Posted by brantgraves

is having problems.
it just flat does not work.
where should i start looking ?

check you cables


what exactly is the problem?

[brantgraves]

there is no ebrake, as far as i can tell anyway, i just got the car and its my first experiance with any toyota product. is there a way to tighten it? maybe if i do that i can tell if there is a cable at all.

[muffinman]

check under the car and see if the cables are still intact.

are you getting any tension when you pull the brake?

[Brinkley]

I have the same issue with my shell car. My handle works the cable is connected but pull or no pull you get no braking. Going to take a look in the next few days at what the problem is. If I find out I'll post it here.

[Dance_Business]

Mine is shot. No grip at all. The weight of the car will cause it to roll with or without the ebrake.
I have 40 days to get it through inspection, so hurry up Brinkley!

[brantgraves]

you cant tell a difference with the handle pulled or not, the cables are all conected.... and this just happened today, i parked on a slope and left my car in gear, cause i have no ebrake, and it slips. i had to repark on a even plain cause my car was rolling back even though it was in gear, i just put a new clutch in too.

[Everett]

If you have tension when you pull the e-brake you might have to adjust the cable. If there is no tension, the cable is snapped in route to the calipers.

[muffinman]

IIRC where the two cables turn to one under the car there is some adjustment. If all the cables are attached and are pulling then you should try taking off the rear wheels and have someone pull the e-brake handle to make sure it's attached at the calipers.

[55mr2]

You may need this at some point....

[muffinman]

Originally Posted by 55mr2

You may need this at some point....

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...KII-ebrake.jpg

But what year is that because it says MK2 and he has an MK1 although it looks very similar.

[brantgraves]

yeah, i have a mk1, thankyou for all the help, ill be looking at all this today.

[55mr2]

Originally Posted by muffinman

But what year is that because it says MK2 and he has an MK1 although it looks very similar.

You're right. It is from the MKII OPC but I figured it was close enough to give the OP an idea of how it hooks together at the handle and at the calipers.

[brantgraves]

ok, the cables are all connected, so i adjusted it, with help from the diagram, ty 55mr2, and the cables and ebrake handle are very tight, but still no help stopping the car at all! its frustrating me, i have no idea unless the back calipers are completely bad . . .

[55mr2]

With all the cables connected, you should see the rear actuator (Part 47633) pull back and forth as you pull on the handle. If not, then the cable or the actuator is seized up. Disconnect the cable and see if you can move the actuator manually. If you can then it's the cable.

[brantgraves]

should i disconnect the cable in the center where the cables split or near the caliper?

[55mr2]

I would disconnect it at the caliper and see if the caliper can be moved manually. Then disconnect the center cable and see if you can move both cables one at a time. Finally, operate the crank and see if it pulls the center cable.

[brantgraves]

Originally Posted by 55mr2

I would disconnect it at the caliper and see if the caliper can be moved manually. Then disconnect the center cable and see if you can move both cables one at a time. Finally, operate the crank and see if it pulls the center cable.

ok, tomorrows project, but i do know that the crank does pull tight all the cables that are visible under the car.

[assassin10000]

Did you adjust the pads & calipers?

I *think* the rear calipers on the aw11 are similar to my ae86 in operation. If so this should help you:


DIY: Parking / E-brake adjustment.... How to (w/pics) - Hachiroku.net | Forums

Here's the written steps/How to adjust the parking/e-brake my way:

1. Jack up rear of car, remove the rear wheels. Be sure to use jack stands.

2. Undo the nut on the center cable and get as much slack as possible. (hand/park brake cable adjustment nut - on my vehicle I removed the top nut so I no longer need to remove the center console to adjust it, just put a deep 10mm socket down inside and turn)

3. Remove the brake caliper retaining/slide bolt on the bottom of the rear caliper. Rotate the caliper forward and slide back slightly for access.

4. Turn the brake adjuster in atleast 1 full turn (more is OK). Make sure to line up the notch/groove/slot openings on the caliper piston with the pin/tab on the brake pads. Slide caliper back on and put the bolt in a few threads by hand. (if this is the first time you've had your rear calipers off go ahead and turn it all the way down till it's basicly flush with the caliper, it wont hurt anything and helps free up the piston/adjusters)

5. Here's the trick to the adjustment.

A) pull the e-brake cable adjusting lever on the brake caliper towards you so you KNOW its all the way off. (after adjustment this gives you the most leverage/range of movement/clamping force)

B) Pull the whole caliper assembly towards the outside of the car (towards you) and push between the caliper fingers on the brake pads inward (away from you) so space/slack is visible between the rear brake caliper/fingers and brake pad on the outside.

C) Have someone LIGHTLY flutter the brake pedal so it forces the caliper piston out a little at a time.

What that will do is force the caliper out little by little and as it comes out and then back it rotates. The adjuster/opening on the piston will catch the notch and "auto" adjust the rear caliper correctly. You should have little to no space left after the adjustment.

6. REPEAT for the other side (can be done one side at a time) & install bolts for the rear calipers.

7. Reinstall wheels and put back on the ground.

8. Now you can tighten up the nut in the console hand-brake to the point where about 2-3 clicks up it will stop the vehicle from rolling.

Test drive - even if it doesn't work quite as well as mine it should be significantly improved.

NOTE: I do have 3 new e-brake cables and a new handle, but it locked up fine with the old cables as well.

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Here's the PHOTO guide which should help all the visual thinkers...







EDIT: It helps if you spin the piston in about 1/8-1/4 turn past the marks where it lines up and then back it out. Something to do with the design of the adjuster inside the caliper. Be sure to do so.

Andrew

[328FTW]

On a side note how frayed are the cables? I've had a couple MR2s where the cable is so frayed from years of use that it won't retract into the sleeve anymore, also caused sticking. If they are not frayed badly continue adjustment/ongoing diagnostic