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| MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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MR2 MKI AW11
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
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Clutch Replacement
So, I've determined my clutch is slipping and will eventually need to be replaced. I'm curious as to how hard/long of a job this is (I searched the MKI forums w/ no luck on finding any write-ups or anything). I have some tools, and I can do mechanics to a point, but I've never attempted a clutch replacement.
I asked a mechanic about it and he said it's more hassle to keep the engine mounted than it is to drop the engine and tranny, is this true? It seems illogical to drop both of them just to replace the clutch in the tranny. Also, any recommendations on the clutch to get? I'm looking for a happy-medium between performance and DD (more towards performance). I checked out ebay to start with and came up with this clutch kit eBay Motors: F1 RACING STAGE 3 CLUTCH KIT 85-89 TOYOTA MR2 MR-2 4AGE (item 160290809682 end time Nov-07-08 14:16:29 PST) . I know a little bit about clutches based on materials and weight. Obviously it will grip better than stock, but will it grip to the point of having excessive clutch chatter (I don't mind a little bit) ? Can I get a clutch designed for any 4AGE (Corolla/MR2) or is it best to stick to MR2 specific? Thanks for all the info. Timon |
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#2 (permalink) |
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U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sunny South Florida
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I did my clutch a couple months ago and it wasn't as hard as i thought it would be. You don't have to drop the motor or at least i didn't. took me about 6 or 7 hours (my first time doing it) to get it done. once it was on jack stands i used two floor jacks , one to support the engine and the other to support the tranny. disconnect the speedo,reverse sensor,water outlet,slave cylinder,shift cables and the three tranny mounts and IIRC that was about it then lower it till you have enough room to slide it out. make sure you have some one give you a hand when you put it back together to re-allign the tranny before getting the bolts back in , i tried on my own and thats what ate up so much extra time.
good luck , i think next time i could do it in half the time. btw i just bought a clutch from a local parts store. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sunny South Florida
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on a side note you got any pics of the finished paint job?
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#4 (permalink) |
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Getting there
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Dallas, TX
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I changed the clutch on my 87 by myself with a broken collar bone. Took my 2 days.
Use a scissor jack to hold the motor as hydraulic jacks tend to leak out and lower themselves. I grabbed a clutch off ebay for $85 shipped. It is really not that hard.....but I've done it a few times. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Crazy Nasty Honey Badger
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
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I going to be contradictive and say it is easier to drop the whole thing. As long as you make sure you unplug everything then drop slowly so you can see hangups it's fine. Having the engine on the floor makes lining the spline up again a breeze. I do cheat and use a car lift to do this and am well practiced at swapping engines within a couple hours. Just do it however it suits you and your equipment.
Corrolla clutches work fine but make sure it's the right diameter and such. I am using a used clutch off a 1.3 corrolla cause I got it free and it was in mint condition. As long as you have a good pressure plate the clutches hold fine. I have one Carbon/Kevlar clutch and it has some chatter but I haven't used a ceramic one like that one your looking at on ebay so I don't know if it will chatter bad if at all. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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MR2 MKI AW11
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
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Great advice. A few questions about it. Probably the biggest thing standing is the way from what I've read will be removing the axles. Do both have to be removed and can they be removed with manual tools or does it require power tools?
Can anyone specify what all will need to be removed in order? I plan on hopefully getting some decent pics this weekend, when I do I'll post them up. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Crazy Nasty Honey Badger
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
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Removing the axles is a piece of cake. Just unbolt the little subframe things that the suspension arms bolt to from off the body so the assembly can swing. Then undo the little nuts from the cv housing and push on the suspension so it swings out and drops the shaft. You can do it without unbolting the frames but if you unbolt them it is so much easier and it doesn't take long to undo them plus you can grease the bolts so they don't rust up when you put them back on so it goes together nicely.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Crazy Nasty Honey Badger
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
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Quote:
You can do it without a lift. I put a whole engine and gearbox conversion in my old two using a couple jackstands and two carjacks in about 6 hours . As long as you support the engine when you drop the box it can be done. When you do it raise the car right up put it securely on some sort of stands so there is lots of room to move but not so much you can't put it back into place. Put a stand under the engine to stop it dropping and just unbolt away. You may have to let the engine tilt a bit to slide the spline out but that's alright. Those portable floorcranes can be a life saver for jobs like this if you have one. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
The axles are easy to remove all you need is an open/boxed end wrench and a socket , i took mine apart from the hubs at the tranny and then removed the center nut from the cv joint and they tapped right out. I used an impact on the nut so it came off pretty easy but i'm sure it could be done with out one as long as you take it off before removing the other end (the e-brake will hold it in place while you loosen it). I didn't take the suspension arms off but i'm sure that works just as well. As long as you already have the the back- up sensor,speedo cable,water outlet,slave cylinder and shift cables disconnected your ready to start lowering. I used two floor jacks ,one under the tranny and the other one with a block of wood under the oil pan , slowly lower both jacks (btw the three mounts should also have been removed-front,back,and drivers side) the tranny will drop down lower then the motor with enough room to remove it and slide it out of the way. Make sure you use the clutch re-allignment tool when you put your new clutch on and reassembly should be easy. If the explanation was too long i apologize in advance ![]() |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Crazy Nasty Honey Badger
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
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Depends what your definition of crap is. My track 2 has a no BS race clutch and it chatters and vibrates and does all sorts of strange things on the road but it bites sooooooooo hard and that's why I brought it likewise my cheap and used clutches I keep throwing in my road cars and beaters are smooth but they die. I had one that blew a spring when I did a hard launch so I had to drive home without a clutch. Ceramic generally do chatter a bit but as long as it's not bad and does what it should then it will be fine.
The only problem I've had with my clutch chatter is when friends drive my car they stall and then when they do slip the clutch think the flywheel is throwing apart which is funny. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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MR2 MKI AW11
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
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I agree, I'm looking to buy it, but I'd like to know if anyone has had any experience with F1 Racing.
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#16 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
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Yeah, I do on an MK2.
Theyre garbage. Just get an Exedy OEM replacement. You have no reason to put a wanna be high performance clutch in your MK1. You dont have anything done to it to justify it. With clutches you get what you pay for. I wouldnt put an F1 clutch in my MR2. Borinal on u-moc ran one in his for a little bit, it fragged, he pulled it out and put in a spec. Worthless IMO. Good luck dude. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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MR2 MKI AW11
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 669
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I do want something that grabs a better than stock - then again I don't know what a Toyota OEM clutch grabbed like since mine has been slipping little by little since I bought it.
Do you think a Stage 1/2 Exedy clutch would work out? Why is it a Stage 1 Exedy is the same as the OEM? Everything as far as their written descriptions are identical. Also, the reason I was debating the F1 is b/c it is cheaper than an OEM Exedy clutch, and I'll most likely have to pay a shop to put it in, which isn't cheap. Last edited by Timon; 10-27-2008 at 08:35 AM.. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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MK1 = My Daily Addiction
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Oregon
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My stock clutch grabs like Michael Jackson at an amusment park. I see no reason for anything better. If you drastically increase your flywheel torque then maybe...
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
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Quote:
Get the OEM or exedy. Youll have no grabbing issues with it. Or spend some more money on a good name brand clutch. But Im telling you, the F1 could be hit or miss. I for one woudlnt take that gamble. Not after having personal experience with that clutch brand. |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Supreme!
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Boston, MA
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I mean i look at it this way, it's a part that's gonna be used ALL THE TIME and it's gonna take abuse from it's driver either way. So you might as well get something that will hold and it's known to not fail
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