Remove ABV?

328FTW · 01-18-2009, 02:31 AM

Today I started the conversion to an N/A throttle body on my 4agze. Was going along fine till I took the J pipe going down into the intake from the throttle body. It had the ABV hanging off it and I have done the ABV mod to clean up my engine bay so I can assume it does nothing now. I now see no reason to keep it. I am pretty sure that removing it will not change (or damage) anything but would like to check anyway. This is not my daily driver it is my rally car so I want simplicity and functionality at the top of the list. It is a stock pulley so their will be no boost gain theoretically

Also that J pipe that goes down the vertical part of the pipe seems pathetically small. Would there be much gain from going to a larger pipe size the same size as the N/A throttle body diameter or is it best to just leave it as I can feel it open slightly further down. My dad thought it was to speed up airflow speed but it is under boost and the intake I know opens up further down so I can't see it making it worse only better.

My cause is just. There is a v-tec honda I really want to beat this weekend to prove that honda is not god to the rice boy that drives it. And everybody knows that each time you beat a honda an angel gets its wings

Timon · 01-18-2009, 08:03 AM

You sir just earned a quote on my signature.

Sorry I can't be of much service only having an N/A

, but good luck and show them what we have to offer. Free bump.

Jackstand Queen · 01-18-2009, 01:39 PM

How about "everytime a Honda beats me, a bag full of kittens will be thrown, off a bridge, into freeezing cold water" ?

328 we are doing the same thing at just about exactly the same time. Let's compare notes. After a lot of tinkering, I noticed there is an idle by pass passage going through the N.A. TB. Hold the TB top side up to a light . . . you will see light coming through a 1/4" or 6mm passage located on the side where the throttle cable hooks up. The throttle plate is normally closed in both NA and SC TB's. So this passage provides a measured amount of air (unmetered by the TPS) for idling. The Jpipe doesn't have enough thickness, or width to drill a matching hole. So, I'm gonna take a rat tail file and make an 6mm groove in the top of the Jpipe to match the by pass tube.

This Mod we are working on is purely an intake upgrade. So unless it is matched by an SC14, larger main pulley, or custom ram air scoop . . . . . . I don't think it will make a lot of difference. On a totally stock setup, it would yield the same result as porting the intake manifold. A few ponies, but you could count them with the fingers of one hand. My car has only the SC14 upgrade, and a K&N type filter in the an otherwise stock intake setup. Its possible I might need two hands to count the HP increase.

In my humble opinion, fabbing a larger jpipe is not necessary. However from what I've read, going to the NA TB and boring out the top of the Jpipe will result in a 17% increase in surface area. This math sounded right, so I haven't bothered to break out a calculator and double check it.

So far, I've got a 90 degree silicone elbow piece ordered. I'm headed to the hardware store looking for a flanged 1/2" pipe that I can poke through the elbow for the PCV outlet connection. That's a must do for sure.

I have installed a Bosch ABV that was oem on a Saab turbo. My original ABV wasn't working right at all. It still limited my boost to 10 PSI despite doing the ABV bypass mod. So out the door it went. It was a heavy bugger that got in the way of the SC14 upgrage . . . good ridance to it.

328FTW · 01-18-2009, 03:32 PM

I'm not so worried about the horsepower gains on the motor. I intend to do a pulley upgrade later so when I do the gains will come later. My biggest want with this mod is that I'm told it opens up a bit more usable top end power which would be brilliant. At the moment at about 6000rpm it is like an invisible anchor drops out the back as the power band curves off and when I'm trying to haul past someone it sucks running out of power as the revs get up.

But this morning I used a die grinder to open up the intake pipe a bit and it now look like it nearly matches the size of the TB. I might make a bigger J pipe later when I do the pulley mod and put the intake on my other car when I get my 4agte running. The intake on the 4agze is a real downfall that I want to help out a bit.

And thanks for the quote Timon, I guess that I'll have to beat him now or else the kittens will suffer

. I do have a little surprise up my sleeve for him though and I don't think he will be expecting it.

Maticuno · 01-18-2009, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 328FTW

I do have a little surprise up my sleeve for him though and I don't think he will be expecting it.

You mean you finally got around to installing the dual .50 cal's in the frunk? Awesome! How much weight did that add?

328FTW · 01-18-2009, 09:31 PM

After a lot of little problems like where to put vacuum hoses and such I got the N/A intake onto the car. The throttle still has a tendency to jam wide open

but I'll fix that tonight.

I took it for a little test drive and my butt dyno tells me that the time I put in was worth it. I had trouble breaking the wheels lose but I'll get to that. Despite having rerouted almost every vacuum pipe on the car it idles at around 1500rpm which is about where it idled before when cold. Overall I'm really happy now that it works because once I started grinding the J-pipe I knew there was no going back. The boost comes in a lot harder and faster now which is good for what I do.

Jackstand what throttle body did you use? A lot of the writeups are for the smallport TB but I used a bigport (bluetop) one because I have about 3 spare. Apart from some small differences it was no trouble, just curious that's all.

Well here are some pics just to clarify things a little. The first is the hole where the ABV used to be. Now empty and plugged

This is the piping to the new throttle body using the original pipes. I might put on my custom one later.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maticuno

You mean you finally got around to installing the dual .50 cal's in the frunk? Awesome! How much weight did that add?

Haha I wish. My secret weapon is actually pushing my traction advantage to beat him off the line. It looks funny but I'm hoping that I will get zero wheelspin and hope that the weather is cold or drizzling so I can really press the advantage.

Jackstand Queen · 01-18-2009, 10:37 PM

I'm using a USDM 4age throttle body, I think.

Wow it didn't occur to me to just yank up the snorkel from the AFM and hook it up directly to the TB.

Did you hook up a PCV hose to the valve cover? Motors run funky when the PCV is plugged up. You could run the PCV hose outboard of the intake system and put a filter on it. But then that hose would be constantly spewing an oil mist into the Engine bay.

I noticed in your photo that the two small diameter coolant hoses weren't hooked up to the TB's air auxillary valve. When cold, air goes around the throttle plate through a passage in the air auxillary valve. When hot coolant passes through it actuating a piston which closes off the valve.

You may have created a vacuum connection which allows air to by pass your throttle plate. That could create the high idle speed you have.

Aha, I see your secret weapon . . . . Phat tires!! That makes sense to me, more traction equals better handling and better drag starts.

I've gotta go to Capron.com and upload a bunch of pics.

I think you are going to hate my engine . . . its all gaudy and tarted up. Some might say "Ricey".

328FTW · 01-18-2009, 11:59 PM

The current piping you see is not the final way it is going to be. I just did that to get it running. I am going to clean and tuck away everything and put the filter where I can get at it (under the intercooler at the moment). That engine doesn't idle all that well cold. After a couple minutes or a few revs it levels off at 1200 which is what I set it to since noise and fuel consumption is not an issue on that motor.

Eventually the PCV will run a catch tank then that will be piped to the intake and the coolent lines need extending to reach also there were a couple vacuum lines that I swapped over because they were back to front but I'll sort that all later. The other awesome thing with this setup was when I pulled off the ABV I didn't have to 180 the TPS just plug and go which was a little less work.

I want reliability more than anything because throughout a season consistent thirds is better than winning on and off. Without the ABV and the solenoids that control it that is just one less thing to go wrong. Next is a solid pulley that will be smaller for more boost that way no clutch to fail. It never disengages when I'm racing so there is no point having one anyway. Just when this motor is peaking I go 4agte and start again. The joys of cars are endless aren't they.

Jackstand Queen · 01-19-2009, 12:28 AM

I definitely wish I had a stripped, rigged for racing only Mk I. However the nearest two worthwhile racetracks are 2 and 3 hundred miles away respectively.

I can't get this dumb capron photo hosting to work.

So here's a link with a picture of the grooved Jpipe.

Alan Johnson

328FTW · 01-19-2009, 01:01 AM

Magic

Looks almost exactly like mine except you have the ABV pipe.
Also your "Rice" engine bay is on par with my road mkI. I polished the alloy cam covers and have replaced some of the hoses with clear ones. If you think that is rice you don't want to see my mkII engine bay (think purple)

Jackstand Queen · 01-19-2009, 01:13 AM

Grrrrr . . . . . smart alec . .. . posting my own pictures cause I am too retarded to do it. friendly lol.

That ABV pipe is made of copper, but painted over as aluminum. The notch or groove on the left side of the opening is the key. Its going to allow idle air through. The 4age intake manifold has a straight through hole in a place corresponding to my J-pipe's groove. I know you understand everything I am up to. I admit to being pedantic at times.

Yeah, I'll bet you Whored up your Mark II engine something fierce.

328FTW · 01-19-2009, 01:22 AM

Here is a pro tip. When you are using carpron open the picture you want to post then right click and select properties. There will be a field named location. Select the whole file path then use the insert image button to put it into your post and magic you have posted a picture.

And yeah I basically get everything you are up to. I am basically stepping through this at the same time you are. I just can't wait to take mine to the track and test out the difference, I just modified the "dogleg" pipe onto the SC throttle body and didn't even start the car with it before I did this mod lol.

Jackstand Queen · 01-20-2009, 12:11 AM

So how many HP did your Butt Dyno register? A 5 HP gain is easily noticed by a good butt dyno.

I read a webpage about the N.A. TB swap where the author claimed a gain of 22 HP (or 17 KW hours) from doing the swap on an SC12. However, he also changed his ECU over to a JSPEC version on the same dyno run.

I deleted my Capron album because it wouldn't let me edit the captions for the photos.

328FTW · 01-20-2009, 05:32 AM

Well my butt dyno says that I have about 10 more hp to play with. There is no exhaust so I was reluctant to start ripping through the gears to see how much more top end it has. It was hard to tell with the lower profile 300 series tires to factor in so accuracy was at a minimum. Also since I removed the ABV the engine doesn't slowly feed in the boost when you boot it, it is now like a switch. I'm not sure if it was removing the ABV or using an n/a throttle body but the throttle response is instant and with the instant effect boost it goes a lot better.

I took it down the driveway and back today after swapping intake pipes and changing vacuum hoses. I ran the PCV into a catch tank and will either stick a filter on it or run it to the intake again (that is the garden hose you can see lol). It goes a lot better since I changed the timing a bit. The new intake pipe I got for free off an old tractor, I can't believe how perfect it is for the job, it does a nice little sweep over the throttle bracket then down to the AFM. It is really heavy tough rubber and much larger than the stock pipes. Whoever designed this could see into the future.

This weekend has an open day which means I can fiddle around without worrying about making things worse so I will be able to draw a conclusion to how much better this makes the car.

BTW if you want a good photo host I use photobucket. They don't have the little side stories but you can change the names of things and make albums plus they give you a pretty good bandwidth limit. They even have a box that lets you copy the image location with the code to put it on the forums when you wave over the picture with the mouse.

Jackstand Queen · 01-20-2009, 10:19 AM

I feel like one of those Rear Eschalon M. F'rs. The guy who stays behind safe in some bunker . . . while the real hero is scouting dangerous territory.

There's another issue that you mentioned briefly: the tendency for the throttle to stick in the open position (while running). When I was comparing TB's, I noticed the SC version had about 3 times more throttle return springs and a return to closed impulse of at least twice. I didn't get it then, until you mentioned the throttle sticking open. That Hurricane force air flow could be stronger than the NA TB throttle return spring! There's no way to transfer the springs from the SC TB over to the NA version. So what I am probably going to end up doing is pulling a spring from my box of miscellaneous springs and rig one running up from the Jpipe somehow.

I already have an old personal website on Freewebs.com which I am thinking about re-doing over to The Rape Master 5000 Story. I already have some parody sponsor advertisements from the Slap a Ho' Condom company and Psycho-Dad Gun Company ready to insert.

That's a pretty smooth snorkel you have there going from the AFM to the TB. If it was just a little longer and had a bend at the bottom: it would be perfect.

So I have this red 90 elbow intake piece that should arrive today. I bought a plastic bit from a lawn sprinkling system to poke through the elbow for the PCV hose. So far the most likely candidate for the straight piece of pipe between the OEM Snorkel and the silicone elbow piece is A CAMBELL's Soup can! I can reinforce the can from the inside with fiberglass, and paint the outside with aluminum paint. Oh the shame and utter humiliation of it all! But then again . . . . yours came from a Tractor . . . . Haw hah haw! Joking . . . lol.

01-18-2009, 02:31 AM	#1 (permalink)
328FTW Crazy Nasty Honey Badger Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,236 Thanks: 24 Thanked 266 Times in 239 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Remove ABV? Today I started the conversion to an N/A throttle body on my 4agze. Was going along fine till I took the J pipe going down into the intake from the throttle body. It had the ABV hanging off it and I have done the ABV mod to clean up my engine bay so I can assume it does nothing now. I now see no reason to keep it. I am pretty sure that removing it will not change (or damage) anything but would like to check anyway. This is not my daily driver it is my rally car so I want simplicity and functionality at the top of the list. It is a stock pulley so their will be no boost gain theoretically Also that J pipe that goes down the vertical part of the pipe seems pathetically small. Would there be much gain from going to a larger pipe size the same size as the N/A throttle body diameter or is it best to just leave it as I can feel it open slightly further down. My dad thought it was to speed up airflow speed but it is under boost and the intake I know opens up further down so I can't see it making it worse only better. My cause is just. There is a v-tec honda I really want to beat this weekend to prove that honda is not god to the rice boy that drives it. And everybody knows that each time you beat a honda an angel gets its wings

01-18-2009, 03:32 PM	#4 (permalink)
328FTW Crazy Nasty Honey Badger Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,236 Thanks: 24 Thanked 266 Times in 239 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I'm not so worried about the horsepower gains on the motor. I intend to do a pulley upgrade later so when I do the gains will come later. My biggest want with this mod is that I'm told it opens up a bit more usable top end power which would be brilliant. At the moment at about 6000rpm it is like an invisible anchor drops out the back as the power band curves off and when I'm trying to haul past someone it sucks running out of power as the revs get up. But this morning I used a die grinder to open up the intake pipe a bit and it now look like it nearly matches the size of the TB. I might make a bigger J pipe later when I do the pulley mod and put the intake on my other car when I get my 4agte running. The intake on the 4agze is a real downfall that I want to help out a bit. And thanks for the quote Timon, I guess that I'll have to beat him now or else the kittens will suffer. I do have a little surprise up my sleeve for him though and I don't think he will be expecting it.

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01-18-2009, 08:03 AM	#2 (permalink)
Timon MR2 MKI AW11 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Utah Posts: 669 Thanks: 13 Thanked 42 Times in 37 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	You sir just earned a quote on my signature. Sorry I can't be of much service only having an N/A , but good luck and show them what we have to offer. Free bump.

01-18-2009, 01:39 PM	#3 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	How about "everytime a Honda beats me, a bag full of kittens will be thrown, off a bridge, into freeezing cold water" ? 328 we are doing the same thing at just about exactly the same time. Let's compare notes. After a lot of tinkering, I noticed there is an idle by pass passage going through the N.A. TB. Hold the TB top side up to a light . . . you will see light coming through a 1/4" or 6mm passage located on the side where the throttle cable hooks up. The throttle plate is normally closed in both NA and SC TB's. So this passage provides a measured amount of air (unmetered by the TPS) for idling. The Jpipe doesn't have enough thickness, or width to drill a matching hole. So, I'm gonna take a rat tail file and make an 6mm groove in the top of the Jpipe to match the by pass tube. This Mod we are working on is purely an intake upgrade. So unless it is matched by an SC14, larger main pulley, or custom ram air scoop . . . . . . I don't think it will make a lot of difference. On a totally stock setup, it would yield the same result as porting the intake manifold. A few ponies, but you could count them with the fingers of one hand. My car has only the SC14 upgrade, and a K&N type filter in the an otherwise stock intake setup. Its possible I might need two hands to count the HP increase. In my humble opinion, fabbing a larger jpipe is not necessary. However from what I've read, going to the NA TB and boring out the top of the Jpipe will result in a 17% increase in surface area. This math sounded right, so I haven't bothered to break out a calculator and double check it. So far, I've got a 90 degree silicone elbow piece ordered. I'm headed to the hardware store looking for a flanged 1/2" pipe that I can poke through the elbow for the PCV outlet connection. That's a must do for sure. I have installed a Bosch ABV that was oem on a Saab turbo. My original ABV wasn't working right at all. It still limited my boost to 10 PSI despite doing the ABV bypass mod. So out the door it went. It was a heavy bugger that got in the way of the SC14 upgrage . . . good ridance to it.

01-18-2009, 10:37 PM	#7 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I'm using a USDM 4age throttle body, I think. Wow it didn't occur to me to just yank up the snorkel from the AFM and hook it up directly to the TB. Did you hook up a PCV hose to the valve cover? Motors run funky when the PCV is plugged up. You could run the PCV hose outboard of the intake system and put a filter on it. But then that hose would be constantly spewing an oil mist into the Engine bay. I noticed in your photo that the two small diameter coolant hoses weren't hooked up to the TB's air auxillary valve. When cold, air goes around the throttle plate through a passage in the air auxillary valve. When hot coolant passes through it actuating a piston which closes off the valve. You may have created a vacuum connection which allows air to by pass your throttle plate. That could create the high idle speed you have. Aha, I see your secret weapon . . . . Phat tires!! That makes sense to me, more traction equals better handling and better drag starts. I've gotta go to Capron.com and upload a bunch of pics. I think you are going to hate my engine . . . its all gaudy and tarted up. Some might say "Ricey".

01-18-2009, 11:59 PM	#8 (permalink)
328FTW Crazy Nasty Honey Badger Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,236 Thanks: 24 Thanked 266 Times in 239 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	The current piping you see is not the final way it is going to be. I just did that to get it running. I am going to clean and tuck away everything and put the filter where I can get at it (under the intercooler at the moment). That engine doesn't idle all that well cold. After a couple minutes or a few revs it levels off at 1200 which is what I set it to since noise and fuel consumption is not an issue on that motor. Eventually the PCV will run a catch tank then that will be piped to the intake and the coolent lines need extending to reach also there were a couple vacuum lines that I swapped over because they were back to front but I'll sort that all later. The other awesome thing with this setup was when I pulled off the ABV I didn't have to 180 the TPS just plug and go which was a little less work. I want reliability more than anything because throughout a season consistent thirds is better than winning on and off. Without the ABV and the solenoids that control it that is just one less thing to go wrong. Next is a solid pulley that will be smaller for more boost that way no clutch to fail. It never disengages when I'm racing so there is no point having one anyway. Just when this motor is peaking I go 4agte and start again. The joys of cars are endless aren't they.

01-19-2009, 12:28 AM	#9 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I definitely wish I had a stripped, rigged for racing only Mk I. However the nearest two worthwhile racetracks are 2 and 3 hundred miles away respectively. I can't get this dumb capron photo hosting to work. So here's a link with a picture of the grooved Jpipe. Alan Johnson

01-19-2009, 01:01 AM	#10 (permalink)
328FTW Crazy Nasty Honey Badger Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,236 Thanks: 24 Thanked 266 Times in 239 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Magic Looks almost exactly like mine except you have the ABV pipe. Also your "Rice" engine bay is on par with my road mkI. I polished the alloy cam covers and have replaced some of the hoses with clear ones. If you think that is rice you don't want to see my mkII engine bay (think purple)

01-19-2009, 01:13 AM	#11 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Grrrrr . . . . . smart alec . .. . posting my own pictures cause I am too retarded to do it. friendly lol. That ABV pipe is made of copper, but painted over as aluminum. The notch or groove on the left side of the opening is the key. Its going to allow idle air through. The 4age intake manifold has a straight through hole in a place corresponding to my J-pipe's groove. I know you understand everything I am up to. I admit to being pedantic at times. Yeah, I'll bet you Whored up your Mark II engine something fierce.

01-19-2009, 01:22 AM	#12 (permalink)
328FTW Crazy Nasty Honey Badger Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,236 Thanks: 24 Thanked 266 Times in 239 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Here is a pro tip. When you are using carpron open the picture you want to post then right click and select properties. There will be a field named location. Select the whole file path then use the insert image button to put it into your post and magic you have posted a picture. And yeah I basically get everything you are up to. I am basically stepping through this at the same time you are. I just can't wait to take mine to the track and test out the difference, I just modified the "dogleg" pipe onto the SC throttle body and didn't even start the car with it before I did this mod lol.

01-20-2009, 12:11 AM	#13 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	So how many HP did your Butt Dyno register? A 5 HP gain is easily noticed by a good butt dyno. I read a webpage about the N.A. TB swap where the author claimed a gain of 22 HP (or 17 KW hours) from doing the swap on an SC12. However, he also changed his ECU over to a JSPEC version on the same dyno run. I deleted my Capron album because it wouldn't let me edit the captions for the photos.

01-20-2009, 05:32 AM	#14 (permalink)
328FTW Crazy Nasty Honey Badger Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,236 Thanks: 24 Thanked 266 Times in 239 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Well my butt dyno says that I have about 10 more hp to play with. There is no exhaust so I was reluctant to start ripping through the gears to see how much more top end it has. It was hard to tell with the lower profile 300 series tires to factor in so accuracy was at a minimum. Also since I removed the ABV the engine doesn't slowly feed in the boost when you boot it, it is now like a switch. I'm not sure if it was removing the ABV or using an n/a throttle body but the throttle response is instant and with the instant effect boost it goes a lot better. I took it down the driveway and back today after swapping intake pipes and changing vacuum hoses. I ran the PCV into a catch tank and will either stick a filter on it or run it to the intake again (that is the garden hose you can see lol). It goes a lot better since I changed the timing a bit. The new intake pipe I got for free off an old tractor, I can't believe how perfect it is for the job, it does a nice little sweep over the throttle bracket then down to the AFM. It is really heavy tough rubber and much larger than the stock pipes. Whoever designed this could see into the future. This weekend has an open day which means I can fiddle around without worrying about making things worse so I will be able to draw a conclusion to how much better this makes the car. BTW if you want a good photo host I use photobucket. They don't have the little side stories but you can change the names of things and make albums plus they give you a pretty good bandwidth limit. They even have a box that lets you copy the image location with the code to put it on the forums when you wave over the picture with the mouse.

01-20-2009, 10:19 AM	#15 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I feel like one of those Rear Eschalon M. F'rs. The guy who stays behind safe in some bunker . . . while the real hero is scouting dangerous territory. There's another issue that you mentioned briefly: the tendency for the throttle to stick in the open position (while running). When I was comparing TB's, I noticed the SC version had about 3 times more throttle return springs and a return to closed impulse of at least twice. I didn't get it then, until you mentioned the throttle sticking open. That Hurricane force air flow could be stronger than the NA TB throttle return spring! There's no way to transfer the springs from the SC TB over to the NA version. So what I am probably going to end up doing is pulling a spring from my box of miscellaneous springs and rig one running up from the Jpipe somehow. I already have an old personal website on Freewebs.com which I am thinking about re-doing over to The Rape Master 5000 Story. I already have some parody sponsor advertisements from the Slap a Ho' Condom company and Psycho-Dad Gun Company ready to insert. That's a pretty smooth snorkel you have there going from the AFM to the TB. If it was just a little longer and had a bend at the bottom: it would be perfect. So I have this red 90 elbow intake piece that should arrive today. I bought a plastic bit from a lawn sprinkling system to poke through the elbow for the PCV hose. So far the most likely candidate for the straight piece of pipe between the OEM Snorkel and the silicone elbow piece is A CAMBELL's Soup can! I can reinforce the can from the inside with fiberglass, and paint the outside with aluminum paint. Oh the shame and utter humiliation of it all! But then again . . . . yours came from a Tractor . . . . Haw hah haw! Joking . . . lol.