another day, another problem - Page 3

mr2tim · 02-24-2009, 10:26 PM

Be sure your engine has or gets the metal banding overtop the the oil pan perimeter. The bolts go thru this and it helps spreadout the torque evenly thruout the surface of the pan and often stops spot leakages. Your oil pan perimeter will not be distorted accordingly.

Personally I favor only new rubber gaskets they are thicker and provide better sealing, add more fexibility for longer periods of time.

When I grew up in Detroit we were taught never ever to use old head bolts under any circumstances, I'm not sure it was because they were American or what?

After 20 years of mr2 building, assembling and waterproofing I find that Motoseal 1 by Permatex to be the best sealing gasket cement on the market in America. It requires 24 hours to set but it's quality and durability is truly unbeatable.

mr2tim

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86tymr2

okay ill do that is the crush washer on the oil pan something i can find at a parts store?

86tymr2 · 03-07-2009, 04:17 PM

what metal band are you talking about the baffle? i havnt got my guides done yet i was going to say F-it and just put it back together but i was wondering how can i test my guides just to be sure theyre bad? the valve really didnt move that much when i tested them by pushing up/down left/right
also i was wondering if the oil cooler adapter has o-rings that would be available from the box of o-rings most parts stores have
also i noticed when taking apart my intake manifold the blue vsv has a broken nipple on the bottom of it(theres that damn vacuum leak!!!) is this vsv important to keep on there or can i remove it or should i replace it? heres pics of it

tjmr2 · 03-11-2009, 01:30 AM

Oil leak: A leaking valve seal on the intake side can cause massive oil consumption to the point of just blowing it out the tailpipe and smoke (think mosquito fogger) when getting on the throttle hard.

I tore down my original engine thinking I had bad rings due to the oil consumption. Eventually the only thing I could find wrong with the engine was a bad intake seal. I could have spent $700 or so to get the head redone right, seals, guides, seats, valves, etc. + rings, + gasket kit, + bearings, +++ or $1500 on a Black Top.

That's why I'm running a Black Top now.

Won't tell you it just bolted in and away I went, any engine conversion isn't for the faint of heart. But if you had a weak heart you wouldn't have started down the MR2 road. Hope this helps.

mr2tim · 03-13-2009, 01:35 PM

The blue VSV in your picture is missing a cylindrical attachment which the valve blows air out of. It keeps the valve from getting crud up the hole basically and does nothing but filter the air leaving the valve. There is no performance or system effect other than crudding up the valve? in 10-20 years.

I'm at a loss about the oil cooler adapter o-ring issue? The water to oil cooler at the rear of the engine bay has worked fine in heavy duty use at the track with nary a problem in 20 years.

Yeah, the oil pan baffle bolts under the oil pan and helps distribute the oil pans bolt torque somewhat?

Valve stem and guide bushing inspections and specs are on page em-37 of the BGB, u gotta have 2 types of mics, unassembled parts and be able to do subtraction.. we're talking measurements in the 0.0000 range..

Remember ya'll stems MUST be re-installed in heads that have been heated to between 176-212F--no exceptions!!.. no compromising!!...

Honor the specs and your engine will always be worth the time and money you put in on it....

mr2tim
Supercharzed Toyz Race Team
A Toyota Race Team since 1989

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86tymr2

what metal band are you talking about the baffle? i havnt got my guides done yet i was going to say F-it and just put it back together but i was wondering how can i test my guides just to be sure theyre bad? the valve really didnt move that much when i tested them by pushing up/down left/right
also i was wondering if the oil cooler adapter has o-rings that would be available from the box of o-rings most parts stores have
also i noticed when taking apart my intake manifold the blue vsv has a broken nipple on the bottom of it(theres that damn vacuum leak!!!) is this vsv important to keep on there or can i remove it or should i replace it? heres pics of it
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...t0002/vsv1.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...t0002/vsv2.jpg

03-07-2009, 04:17 PM	#42 (permalink)
86tymr2 Some Skills Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: port angeles, wa Posts: 82 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	what metal band are you talking about the baffle? i havnt got my guides done yet i was going to say F-it and just put it back together but i was wondering how can i test my guides just to be sure theyre bad? the valve really didnt move that much when i tested them by pushing up/down left/right also i was wondering if the oil cooler adapter has o-rings that would be available from the box of o-rings most parts stores have also i noticed when taking apart my intake manifold the blue vsv has a broken nipple on the bottom of it(theres that damn vacuum leak!!!) is this vsv important to keep on there or can i remove it or should i replace it? heres pics of it Last edited by 86tymr2; 03-07-2009 at 04:49 PM..

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03-11-2009, 01:30 AM	#43 (permalink)
tjmr2 Cage Fighter Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Colorado Posts: 410 Thanks: 0 Thanked 62 Times in 59 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Oil leak: A leaking valve seal on the intake side can cause massive oil consumption to the point of just blowing it out the tailpipe and smoke (think mosquito fogger) when getting on the throttle hard. I tore down my original engine thinking I had bad rings due to the oil consumption. Eventually the only thing I could find wrong with the engine was a bad intake seal. I could have spent $700 or so to get the head redone right, seals, guides, seats, valves, etc. + rings, + gasket kit, + bearings, +++ or $1500 on a Black Top. That's why I'm running a Black Top now. Won't tell you it just bolted in and away I went, any engine conversion isn't for the faint of heart. But if you had a weak heart you wouldn't have started down the MR2 road. Hope this helps.