another day, another problem

[86tymr2]

so i finally got my car to start after replacing the distributor(with toyota o-ring) because the parts place gave me the wrong o-ring and messed up my old distributor...but before i did this i was having trouble with it surging and still have the same problem but when i push close the throttle it doesnt surge(still has high idle though like 2k) what would cause the throttle not to close all the way? i tried messing with the idle screw and tps but no luck...also ive deleted of my egr and idle up vsv and a/c vsv and plugged all the lines from those...another thing is my throttle cable seems a little loose wont tighten...i dont think that would cause high idle or any of my problems though? im pretty sure my coolant is bled right but i might try to do it again

[HoLun]

what would cause the throttle not to close all the way?

stuck/broken/bent throttle cable? or corroded throttle shaft, disconnect the cable and work it by hand to see if its smooth, and do the same to the throttle body

[86tymr2]

i was thinking the throttle cable might be stretched out or something but im not sure...im going to try ajusting the lever and i can move the throttle by hand easily and theres nothing for it to get stuck to inside the throttle body...also it seems like the car just falls on its face when running and trying to accelerate but it wont die no matter how long the throttles open

[86tymr2]

its fixed now...i took off the throttle body and it had some silicone stuck in the holes and i cleaned it up and made a actual gasket for it....runs alot better now except i was having trouble with the starter not turning so i took it out and cleaned the contacts/ring and then tried taking apart the cap with the 2 long bolts and my 2 brushes came off the wires....so does anyone know what holds them onto the wires? a good pic is here on step 24 first pic
MKI MR2 Write-ups

[HoLun]

buy new bushes, the wire is weld/molded together at the factory and not suppose to be able to seperate, atlease that how most motors are, I havent taken apart the starter on a 4a, can you post picture of the brushes and the wire you are talking about so I can make sure.

[86tymr2]

theres a pic of what im talking about in that link...im trying to silicone the wires back on and hopefully they will stay but i dont know...if it fails time for a new starter i guess. btw the one i have says remanufactured

[HoLun]

you cant silicone that, silicone is not conductive, it will not work, get new brushes, they are like 5 dollars

[86tymr2]

yeah i didnt think so...where can you get new ones?
:edit: i tested the starter after i siliconed the wires in and it worked so i put it back in and it doesnt work just clicks...arrgh
so does anyone have a starter for sale?

[HoLun]

it clicks because the brushes is not having a good contact with the wire, RTV is non conductive, at lease not enugh for a starter that draws over 100amp, they should have brushes at advance auto parts, they are about 7 dollars a set, nevermind i saw it wrong, starter repair kit that comes with brushes is 44 bucks, if u can find a good starter for 20, go for it

they have brush set at the dealer for 40...

[86tymr2]

yeah i checked the local junkyards with no luck...but i did find one on ebay with 1 year warrenty for $50 i think ill get that unless i can find one cheaper...

[mr2tim]

Doubt if you will find a started cheaper than $50? the yards here in South Florida are asking $75

Tim

[86tymr2]

i got one from schucks for $55 with a 2year warrenty and 1year roadside service...i had to give them my old one or else i would have had to pay $20 more...i guess another good thing is i got my exhaust welded up today its kind of od that it goes from 1.75" to 2.5" gradually, but its better than my straight through i had on there i just have to weld another 90deg bend on the end of the muffler so it comes out the back instead of at the mud flap

[86tymr2]

good news got the starter in and it runs, bad news is that i found out one of the bolts for the distributor was stripped by the previous owner...ive read about helicoil but i dont know if i can drill out the hole without taking off the head, does anyone know how far the distributor bolt holes go into the head?like do the holes go into any internal part of the head? if i can do it with the head still on the block in the car that would be nice as i dont want to go through the trouble of taking the head off and getting new gaskets

[HoLun]

Originally Posted by 86tymr2

good news got the starter in and it runs, bad news is that i found out one of the bolts for the distributor was stripped by the previous owner...ive read about helicoil but i dont know if i can drill out the hole without taking off the head, does anyone know how far the distributor bolt holes go into the head?like do the holes go into any internal part of the head? if i can do it with the head still on the block in the car that would be nice as i dont want to go through the trouble of taking the head off and getting new gaskets

head got to come off, theres not enough room to drill and tap with the head in the car.

[86tymr2]

will it hold with just one bolt tight?
edit: would i be able to just take off the mounts and tilt the engine so i can drill out the stripped hole? or if thats not possible just drop the engine and do it?

[HoLun]

take a look man, theres no room for you to put a drill in there, either the whole engine comes out or the head comes out, you can try with just 1 bolt, but if it fail for whatever reason then you are screwed. if its just enugh for the dist to move to a point where you wont notice it, it can cause engine damage in the long run by improper timing. or it move to the point where the engine doesnt run and you have to tow the car home in the middle of no where.

if you can get to where you can drill and tap staright then go ahead, but if you messed up you are going to need a new head.

[86tymr2]

alright...also i was wondering if there was any kind of bolts that were self tapping that would work?

[mr2tim]

Run the tap(s) (the pointed first then the flat bottom ones) in and out of the dizzy hole a few times and use the longest bolt that penetrates as far down as possible. Most stripped holes have good threads at the bottom and are messed up at the top section.

Yes, there are self tapping screws available. Talk to the automotive machine shop guys in your area they should be able to reference what you need relative to the hole size and the metric threads. Be sure it's an automotive shop tho.

Alternative? install a threaded rod permanently and then just put a nut on the top?

Superchargzed Toyz Race Team

Originally Posted by 86tymr2

alright...also i was wondering if there was any kind of bolts that were self tapping that would work?

[86tymr2]

the alternative sounds good...should jb weld work and would it hold, that way whenever i do take off my head i can just cut it off drill and tap?
*edit* oh yeah i drove it today it was awesome except i think theres something wrong with the cold start injector wiring...i can hear it click on and off when im moving the wires that plug into it, but it runs good thats all that counts!

[86tymr2]

well i found out it wasnt my cold start injector wiring but my ground on the intake was loose...it seems to be running alot better now and the check engine light doesnt randomly pop on anymore....but! sometimes it throws big clouds of what looks like blueish smoke...and i think that might be rings or valves or head gasket...ill have to figure that out