HELP!!

randomxzero · 02-01-2009, 12:25 AM

Okay so a couple of months ago my transmission wouldnt go into gear and i broke something inside of it. Syncro??
well anyways i thought i fixed the problem by messing with the fork thats on top of it... it went back to shifting right and then a couple of shifts later it broke again but this time permanently..
well anyways i've had the car sitting in my driveway ever since then..
when all this was happening we tried starting the car and the car was misfiring and wouldnt stay on..
we messed with the MAF and it stayed on but misfiring..
that happened a couple of months ago..
well this week i went to work on the car..
picked up a transmission and some other goodies.
so i swapped the transmission and the shift cables changed the fluids and whatnot...
i started the car and the car sounded great no misfiring, it would stay on for at least 10 to 15 seconds and then it would turn off..
i turned it back on and had my friend try to keep the MAF open just a bit.. but the MAF was already staying open so the MAF works!!...
well anyways i though i would tell the history behind that well car wont stay on im thinking TPS sensor or maybe timing??
what do you think it is??

Jackstand Queen · 02-01-2009, 12:49 AM

I'll just toss out some possibles at you.

1. Pull the trouble codes off the ECU. There's a sticky for that somewhere in the Mk I portion of this forum.

2. Plugged fuel filter, malfing fuel pump

3. Corroded electrical connections especially around the AFM, ignitor, or dizzy.

4. Wires going to dizzy terminally flexed too many times, by motor movement on the motor mounts. Bend wire back and forth enough times and it breaks evenutally.

5. Bad ECU. We are talking about a 20 plus year old microprocessor that has been out in the rain, cold, heat, snow etc.

mattdouken · 02-01-2009, 12:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jackstand Queen

I'll just toss out some possibles at you.

1. Pull the trouble codes off the ECU. There's a sticky for that somewhere in the Mk I portion of this forum.

2. Plugged fuel filter, malfing fuel pump

3. Corroded electrical connections especially around the AFM, ignitor, or dizzy.

4. Wires going to dizzy terminally flexed too many times, by motor movement on the motor mounts. Bend wire back and forth enough times and it breaks evenutally.

5. Bad ECU. We are talking about a 20 plus year old microprocessor that has been out in the rain, cold, heat, snow etc.

those are good suggestions,but add

1.check timing belt and cam gears sounds like something is wearing out and transmission may have put strain on it.

randomxzero · 02-01-2009, 12:58 AM

fuel pump is still good i checked it..
i thought of the fuel filter.. but wasnt sure..
im leaning more towards the ECU because the MAF didnt stay open the whole time it started closing could that be it oops forgot to mention it but i thought something else might have caused it :/
im leaning more towards timing?
the first time we tried keeping it on we did mess with the timing somewhat..
the wires going to the dizzy should be good right or else it wouldnt start??
how do i check for corroded connections??

randomxzero · 02-01-2009, 01:33 AM

okay so i just went outside because im looking at the BGB and it says if the Fuel Filter or Fuel Pump is faulty there will be no pressure in the fuel lines i checked and there is pressure..
so i can rule those out i think..
i kept giving it gas because white smoke was coming out of the back .. i revved it for a little the white smoke disappeared and the car was idling at 1000 RPMS no choking or anything for a good 20 seconds then all of a sudden the RPMS started dropping.. and finally it was about to die..
so what could it be??

HoLun · 02-01-2009, 03:18 AM

What do you mean messed with the AFM, the AFM requires no adjustment, if its bad, its bad.

AFM is not staying open because the engine is not pulling enugh air. could be a mechanical problem, you mentioned that the car has been sitting, rings or valves could become stuck, I suggess you do a compression test, if it fails, follow up with a leakdown test to pinpoint the fault.

if you suspect any of the sensors are giving you problems, follow the BGB specs for voltage or resistance test, resistance test are usually worthless because resistance changes as temperature change

did you pull the plugs and check their condition?

a faulty fuel pump can show normal pressure at idle. pressure is not equal flow. so a fuel pressure test is not a complete test to check the fuel deliver system. you should perform a fuel flow check, fuel pressure test should be done when driving. for proper diagnoses of the fuel delivery system.

how the engine runs is completely unrelated to the transmission, unless the input shaft is ceased or ceasing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattdouken

those are good suggestions,but add

1.check timing belt and cam gears sounds like something is wearing out and transmission may have put strain on it.

what? how can a broken transmission can cause abnormal wear to the timing belt and gears?

randomxzero · 02-01-2009, 03:25 AM

okay the car when it first broke down it still didnt want to stay on.. so i know since the car has been sitting its not that
like i said i went outside i revved it a bit then the car was idling fine at 1000rpms for about 30 sec. and the slowly died..
but ya when it first gave up the car didnt want to stay on..
so the problem has been there since the beginning..
oo0o and my friend cut some wire and stuck it into to keep the MAF open at all times..
but i already took off the wire because that isnt a fix..
ahh okay when the car just gave out..
the transmission didnt want to go into gear..
the car was overheating because i immediately stopped and it started spitting out all the water
when i filled it up after i let it cool down..
the car didnt want to stay on
it would stay on for 3 seconds then die.

mattdouken · 02-01-2009, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HoLun

What do you mean messed with the AFM, the AFM requires no adjustment, if its bad, its bad.

AFM is not staying open because the engine is not pulling enugh air. could be a mechanical problem, you mentioned that the car has been sitting, rings or valves could become stuck, I suggess you do a compression test, if it fails, follow up with a leakdown test to pinpoint the fault.

if you suspect any of the sensors are giving you problems, follow the BGB specs for voltage or resistance test, resistance test are usually worthless because resistance changes as temperature change

did you pull the plugs and check their condition?

a faulty fuel pump can show normal pressure at idle. pressure is not equal flow. so a fuel pressure test is not a complete test to check the fuel deliver system. you should perform a fuel flow check, fuel pressure test should be done when driving. for proper diagnoses of the fuel delivery system.

how the engine runs is completely unrelated to the transmission, unless the input shaft is ceased or ceasing.

what? how can a broken transmission can cause abnormal wear to the timing belt and gears?

A transmission that is broken can sometimes put strain on the crank, therefore putting strain on the engine,thus breaking something along with the transmission.

A timing belt is only rubber and every other component to it is metal.
And last time I checked rubber is weaker.

HoLun · 02-01-2009, 03:55 PM

now theres more infomation, the engine was overheated, I highly suggess a compression test, get a tester at harborfreight for like 10-20 dollars. and post results.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattdouken

A transmission that is broken can sometimes put strain on the crank, therefore putting strain on the engine,thus breaking something along with the transmission.

A timing belt is only rubber and every other component to it is metal.
And last time I checked rubber is weaker.

I still don't see how that can happen, unless you are spinning the engine fast and then the transmission completely ceased and stop the engine at high rpm. last time i check, the timing belt on the 4A is only driving the camshafts.

mattdouken · 02-01-2009, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HoLun

now theres more infomation, the engine was overheated, I highly suggess a compression test, get a tester at harborfreight for like 10-20 dollars. and post results.

I still don't see how that can happen, unless you are spinning the engine fast and then the transmission completely ceased and stop the engine at high rpm. last time i check, the timing belt on the 4A is only driving the camshafts.

it is a suggestion,there are many possible reasons that the engine has problems and i was offering a uncommon solution,because i have seen this happen before,but it doesnt happen very often.it all has to do with odds.

you see it may have torn some teeth on the timing belt,or stretched the belt and at certain rpms it may be malfuctioning.basically enough to run, not enough to work.

and im not saying this is the problem,but its worth a look.all you have to do is take off the valve cover and turn the crank over and check the belt.
simple....

randomxzero · 02-01-2009, 08:36 PM

no the belt is fine and the transmission didnt break while i was driving..
the car over heated and i turned off teh car let it cool down but when i got back into the car it wouldnt shift so i kept messing with it until it actually shifted but the engine is fine..
the head gasket is really bad though!!
last night i drove it around keeping the RPMS steady when i came to a stop..
but i did already check all vaccum hoses..
today i noticed that my valve cover is somehow broken on the side..
the battery is gone i keep charging it but it dies real quick..
its really hard to solve the problem on here only if someone would come check it out..

randomxzero · 02-01-2009, 11:54 PM

could i have burned a sensor??

mattdouken · 02-02-2009, 12:39 AM

you just answered your own problem,the head gasket.if it is messed up that would cause the timing to be bad,the engine to over heat,the smoke to come out,and your ecu to be throwing codes.Change it,and get the head resurfaced.

randomxzero · 02-02-2009, 12:42 AM

ya but would it cause the car not to want to stay on and then stay on from time to time but still shutting off??
ya okay do you know any write ups on how to take the head off.. i kind of already know.. but there you need to use an allen wrench for the middle bolts and i am very scared of that because i tend to strip em.. but a write up would be nice so i can get the right size for it because i will be resurfacing my head this week!!

mattdouken · 02-02-2009, 12:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randomxzero

ya but would it cause the car not to want to stay on and then stay on from time to time but still shutting off??
ya okay do you know any write ups on how to take the head off.. i kind of already know.. but there you need to use an allen wrench for the middle bolts and i am very scared of that because i tend to strip em.. but a write up would be nice so i can get the right size for it because i will be resurfacing my head this week!!

ok first no i dont know of any write ups ...sorry.

second,you running the car with a bad head gasket is not good for the car,especially if it has water in the oil.

third,yes it would cause it to run then shut off.

and fourth when you take the head off ,use the correct size allen wrench.it should not strip

randomxzero · 02-02-2009, 01:03 AM

ya thats why i been looking for a write up
so i can find the correct size of the allen wrench..

HoLun · 02-02-2009, 04:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randomxzero

ya thats why i been looking for a write up
so i can find the correct size of the allen wrench..

you dont need to take off the allen bolts, those are core plugs for the head, you only need to take off the hex bolts, there are 10 of them.

randomxzero · 02-02-2009, 12:18 PM

pics of where they are located

HoLun · 02-02-2009, 03:21 PM

remove camshafts, the bolts thats holding the head on is next to the valve springs

Jackstand Queen · 02-02-2009, 05:41 PM

Wow pulling off the head is a rather severe solution. Unless you have oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil.

What do the spark plugs look like? Are they wet?

What did the compression test reveal?

You car's running characteristics also remind me of a vacuum leak.

Well no harm done, pulling the head just means some expense and labor involved. And when put back properly, it will give an extra measure of reliability and longevity.

02-01-2009, 12:25 AM	#1 (permalink)
randomxzero 562 Understeer Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: 562 Posts: 1,171 Thanks: 10 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	HELP!! Okay so a couple of months ago my transmission wouldnt go into gear and i broke something inside of it. Syncro?? well anyways i thought i fixed the problem by messing with the fork thats on top of it... it went back to shifting right and then a couple of shifts later it broke again but this time permanently.. well anyways i've had the car sitting in my driveway ever since then.. when all this was happening we tried starting the car and the car was misfiring and wouldnt stay on.. we messed with the MAF and it stayed on but misfiring.. that happened a couple of months ago.. well this week i went to work on the car.. picked up a transmission and some other goodies. so i swapped the transmission and the shift cables changed the fluids and whatnot... i started the car and the car sounded great no misfiring, it would stay on for at least 10 to 15 seconds and then it would turn off.. i turned it back on and had my friend try to keep the MAF open just a bit.. but the MAF was already staying open so the MAF works!!... well anyways i though i would tell the history behind that well car wont stay on im thinking TPS sensor or maybe timing?? what do you think it is??

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02-01-2009, 12:49 AM	#2 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I'll just toss out some possibles at you. 1. Pull the trouble codes off the ECU. There's a sticky for that somewhere in the Mk I portion of this forum. 2. Plugged fuel filter, malfing fuel pump 3. Corroded electrical connections especially around the AFM, ignitor, or dizzy. 4. Wires going to dizzy terminally flexed too many times, by motor movement on the motor mounts. Bend wire back and forth enough times and it breaks evenutally. 5. Bad ECU. We are talking about a 20 plus year old microprocessor that has been out in the rain, cold, heat, snow etc.

02-01-2009, 12:58 AM	#4 (permalink)
randomxzero 562 Understeer Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: 562 Posts: 1,171 Thanks: 10 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	fuel pump is still good i checked it.. i thought of the fuel filter.. but wasnt sure.. im leaning more towards the ECU because the MAF didnt stay open the whole time it started closing could that be it oops forgot to mention it but i thought something else might have caused it :/ im leaning more towards timing? the first time we tried keeping it on we did mess with the timing somewhat.. the wires going to the dizzy should be good right or else it wouldnt start?? how do i check for corroded connections??

02-01-2009, 01:33 AM	#5 (permalink)
randomxzero 562 Understeer Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: 562 Posts: 1,171 Thanks: 10 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	okay so i just went outside because im looking at the BGB and it says if the Fuel Filter or Fuel Pump is faulty there will be no pressure in the fuel lines i checked and there is pressure.. so i can rule those out i think.. i kept giving it gas because white smoke was coming out of the back .. i revved it for a little the white smoke disappeared and the car was idling at 1000 RPMS no choking or anything for a good 20 seconds then all of a sudden the RPMS started dropping.. and finally it was about to die.. so what could it be??

02-01-2009, 03:25 AM	#7 (permalink)
randomxzero 562 Understeer Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: 562 Posts: 1,171 Thanks: 10 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	okay the car when it first broke down it still didnt want to stay on.. so i know since the car has been sitting its not that like i said i went outside i revved it a bit then the car was idling fine at 1000rpms for about 30 sec. and the slowly died.. but ya when it first gave up the car didnt want to stay on.. so the problem has been there since the beginning.. oo0o and my friend cut some wire and stuck it into to keep the MAF open at all times.. but i already took off the wire because that isnt a fix.. ahh okay when the car just gave out.. the transmission didnt want to go into gear.. the car was overheating because i immediately stopped and it started spitting out all the water when i filled it up after i let it cool down.. the car didnt want to stay on it would stay on for 3 seconds then die.

02-01-2009, 08:36 PM	#11 (permalink)
randomxzero 562 Understeer Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: 562 Posts: 1,171 Thanks: 10 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	no the belt is fine and the transmission didnt break while i was driving.. the car over heated and i turned off teh car let it cool down but when i got back into the car it wouldnt shift so i kept messing with it until it actually shifted but the engine is fine.. the head gasket is really bad though!! last night i drove it around keeping the RPMS steady when i came to a stop.. but i did already check all vaccum hoses.. today i noticed that my valve cover is somehow broken on the side.. the battery is gone i keep charging it but it dies real quick.. its really hard to solve the problem on here only if someone would come check it out..

02-01-2009, 11:54 PM	#12 (permalink)
randomxzero 562 Understeer Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: 562 Posts: 1,171 Thanks: 10 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	could i have burned a sensor??

02-02-2009, 12:39 AM	#13 (permalink)
mattdouken Driver Of The Seven Sea's Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Greensboro,NC Posts: 701 Thanks: 53 Thanked 29 Times in 18 Posts iTrader Rating: (9/100% )	you just answered your own problem,the head gasket.if it is messed up that would cause the timing to be bad,the engine to over heat,the smoke to come out,and your ecu to be throwing codes.Change it,and get the head resurfaced.

02-02-2009, 12:42 AM	#14 (permalink)
randomxzero 562 Understeer Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: 562 Posts: 1,171 Thanks: 10 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	ya but would it cause the car not to want to stay on and then stay on from time to time but still shutting off?? ya okay do you know any write ups on how to take the head off.. i kind of already know.. but there you need to use an allen wrench for the middle bolts and i am very scared of that because i tend to strip em.. but a write up would be nice so i can get the right size for it because i will be resurfacing my head this week!!

02-02-2009, 01:03 AM	#16 (permalink)
randomxzero 562 Understeer Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: 562 Posts: 1,171 Thanks: 10 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	ya thats why i been looking for a write up so i can find the correct size of the allen wrench..

02-02-2009, 12:18 PM	#18 (permalink)
randomxzero 562 Understeer Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: 562 Posts: 1,171 Thanks: 10 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	pics of where they are located

02-02-2009, 03:21 PM	#19 (permalink)
HoLun ASE Master tech Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 79 Thanks: 0 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	remove camshafts, the bolts thats holding the head on is next to the valve springs

02-02-2009, 05:41 PM	#20 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Wow pulling off the head is a rather severe solution. Unless you have oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil. What do the spark plugs look like? Are they wet? What did the compression test reveal? You car's running characteristics also remind me of a vacuum leak. Well no harm done, pulling the head just means some expense and labor involved. And when put back properly, it will give an extra measure of reliability and longevity.