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MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE.

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Old 03-01-2009, 07:31 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
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Question 4AGZE help??

I have 85 with 4AGZE w/ DLI swapped I don't know why its not starting I plugged off all the vacuum lines i have fuel and spark just put in some cheap plugs to get it started they didn't have plats on hand. so they are just coppers.

if any1 knows where any of the lines go plz let me know. I hope i can get some help.

hears the link of me trying to start my car.

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Old 03-01-2009, 09:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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dude i have the same exact motor can u say pain in the ass to swap... you might want to check fuel lines and if you havent put a new fuel pump in that could be the issue.

I hope to see it running cause more people with the 4agze from the levin gtz is cool.

Good luck
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Old 03-01-2009, 10:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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well i hope it didn't take you 2 1/2 years to get this far.
but i have changed the fuel pump i have a walbro 255LPH and it damn sure puts the gas out. I think its the vacuum line I do have all the ones I found plugged but it still dose the same thing?? It putters a little like its going to start but won't. it sounds more like a back fire if anything but i just had the timing set at a shop but everything els i've done my self even putting it in the engine the bay.

have you got yours running yet. hope so, so you can help me out.?
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Old 03-01-2009, 10:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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nope not yet still getting **** together to get it started
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Old 03-01-2009, 10:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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are the injectors actually squirting?

Maybe rip an injector out and crank the engine over to see if it's actually working
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Old 03-01-2009, 11:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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injectors

they seem to be working good.
it will flood after a while pushing the gas while trying to start it. so it is getting fuel. I was thinking that it might be the injectors only cus the resistor pack. i wired it up myself but the guys at pheonix tuning told me how, so it should be good.
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Old 03-01-2009, 11:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-r2d2 View Post
they seem to be working good.
it will flood after a while pushing the gas while trying to start it. so it is getting fuel. I was thinking that it might be the injectors only cus the resistor pack. i wired it up myself but the guys at pheonix tuning told me how, so it should be good.
So if you're getting a spark, and there's fuel, but it's not lighting, then there's only a few things it could be, no compression (you could check quickly by feeling it as you hand turn the crank); bad ignition timing; too much fuel; or not enough fuel.

I'd assume that you're getting good enough compression to start...

Check that the spark wires are all going in the right order, also, how did the shop time the engine without starting it? from what i understand that can't really be done.

Try plugging the vacuum lines at the intake manifold (especially the brake booster line!)

To set the ignition timing when building the engine, you're supposed to set no1 piston to tdc (on the compression stroke!!) and then pull out the distributor, there is a little divet by the little gear, and one on the shaft (sorry i can't describe it better but you can't miss 'em)

Also if you put in an aftermarket fuel pump and you say it really pumps out the gas, did you set the fuel pressure correctly? (not sure how to do that)

And after that, i'm all troubleshooted out

I hope you find the problem.
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Old 03-01-2009, 11:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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thanks

the only thing the shop did was turn the cams to line everything up. when i got the engine I decided to do the timing belt while it was out of the car and didn't really know anything about TDC and all that (wish I did) so thats all the shop did.
I had the break booster plugged but no really that good had a 3/8 inch extension crammed in it but its square and didn't fit to well. I'll try with it good and sealed off.

I don't know how to set the FPR.

I would have the vac lines hooked up but I don't have any of the EGR stuff so it makes reading the chart harder.
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Old 03-01-2009, 11:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-r2d2 View Post
the only thing the shop did was turn the cams to line everything up. when i got the engine I decided to do the timing belt while it was out of the car and didn't really know anything about TDC and all that (wish I did) so thats all the shop did.
I had the break booster plugged but no really that good had a 3/8 inch extension crammed in it but its square and didn't fit to well. I'll try with it good and sealed off.

I don't know how to set the FPR.

I would have the vac lines hooked up but I don't have any of the EGR stuff so it makes reading the chart harder.
If you have the brake booster plugged off like that it should be fine for now, for a sec i was thinking, jeez if he didn't plug the brake booster...

I'm really not sure how to set fuel pressure, but i'm pretty sure that it's an important thing to do when you upgrade to an aftermarket fuel pump.

Because if it's not set right then the injectors squirt either too much, or not enough fuel.
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Old 03-02-2009, 12:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
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After attempting to start the engine . . . quickly remove a spark plug and see if it stinks of gasoline. This is a little easier than removing a fuel injector from the rail.

Unless you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, or an adjustable rising rate regulator you cannot adjust your fuel pressure.


Doubtless in the 2.5 years of project work, you have replaced the fuel filter? Right?

Double check that your spark plug firing order is correct from the distributor.
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Old 03-02-2009, 12:25 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackstand Queen View Post
Unless you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, or an adjustable rising rate regulator you cannot adjust your fuel pressure.
ok, so that's a total fail on my part
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:09 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I have new fuel filter. this engine is DLI so no DIS and i'm getting spark and plenty of fuel I think it is flooding cus the spark plugs will have alot of gas on them just about wet. I don't have the water filled all the way up any1 know if a sensor would keep it from starting if it doesn't have enough water?

I would think that the fuel pressure would be set from factory after the pump so it wouldn't mater how much you pump to the regulator it should stop or slow down the flow. unless of course its bad!? And I don't ever think I have a FPR the gas hose that runs from the filter to the rail there is no vac lines that run to it? it just looks like a big NUT with a hose coming off of it. the return side (passenger side) of the rail has a vac line that runs to it.

and thank everyone I do appreciate the help
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asjoseph View Post
... try this (e.g., ABV bypass, if you're running an overdrive pulley):

2008_01_25_VacuumDiagram1

Drew it myself. It's 600 DPI. Prints nicely. Especially so, on 3M industrial labels. If you'd prefer Toyota's OEM 4AGZE vacuum hose configuration, then toggle here:

VacuumHoseDiagram_Orig

If perchance you haven't compounded the problem, irreparably damaging your vacuum lines plugging them off with those behemoth drywall screws(?) of yours, then let's this might just get you through your vacuum switching issues.

Enough so we hope, to see you along, to your fuel delivery and ignitions issues.

Ensure you have a bona-fide 4AGZE fuel pump installed, as well as a fresh fuel filter. Fresh plugs gaped appropriately, a fresh 4AGZE coil, fresh a set of OEM 4AGZE plug wires, you'll be getting love out of that 4AGZE of yours, soon enough.

Scare yourself up the missing VSV's (e.g., vacuum switching valves; they're not very expensive) you'll need for the OEM vacuum hose configuration. While you're at it, keep your eyes opened when shopping around town, for a 150 CC reusable industrial syringe you'll need, for which keep a watchful eye on fluid level in your supercharger.

And... Welcome to the club.


Courtesy,
~ Sammy, '88 Supercharged


PS- ... love the air filter.


//////////////////////////////////////////////
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:05 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Out of curiousity what's the condition of the gas your using? How long has it been in the tank?
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:07 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Mr2D2 have you installed the DLI versions (compatible) of the Ignitor, and ECU? The lettering on the DLI ECU will be reddish orange, and the US domestic ECU lettering is in Blue.

Also, I have a theory about putting an air filter right at the AFM on SC engines. I think that the incredibly awkward, and long OEM intake tubing creates a buffer, or modulating effect on intake air flow. Having the air filter so close to the Throttle body might permit too abrupt changes in air flow for the EFI system to handle. I could definitely be off in La-La land with this theory.

Your posts indicated you had tested for spark. Did you put some metal piece up in the spark plug boot and get a nice blue spark over an inch long?

The fuel pressure regulator is located on the top of the fuel rail, almost in the middle of it. Its round, and has a vacuum line which goes to the firewall mounted VSV and from there to the intake manifold.

The firing order of your plug wires still seems like a likely problem to me.

There are many forum members that want your car to run, so we can race it and beat it. No, joking, we just want to help you with a difficult engine problem.
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Old 03-02-2009, 01:45 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinman View Post


I was going to do that, but i was on my ipod touch and it doesn't like to handle big long post for some reason.

Good thing you got it, because there's quite a handy diagram there.

I just thought of something though, if you have all the vacuum lines plugged off, then the fpr isn't going to work properly, or probably at all, rig up something quick so that the fpr is actually getting vacuum and connected to the proper fpr vsv.

Thanks muffinman for quoting asjoseph
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Old 03-02-2009, 01:49 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebouwman View Post


I was going to do that, but i was on my ipod touch and it doesn't like to handle big long post for some reason.

Good thing you got it, because there's quite a handy diagram there.

I just thought of something though, if you have all the vacuum lines plugged off, then the fpr isn't going to work properly, or probably at all, rig up something quick so that the fpr is actually getting vacuum and connected to the proper fpr vsv.

Thanks muffinman for quoting asjoseph
BTW i'm glad i did because it's already been deleted
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Old 03-02-2009, 02:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinman View Post
BTW i'm glad i did because it's already been deleted
I KNOW!!!!

WTF!!!!

That was a fairly good post asjosph!!!!

And the diagrams are sure to help!
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:34 PM   #19 (permalink)
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asjoseph's post was edited exactly one day after it was posted. I'm kinda confused why why it was edited, I can't see anything wrong with that post.
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:37 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 328FTW View Post
asjoseph's post was edited exactly one day after it was posted. I'm kinda confused why why it was edited, I can't see anything wrong with that post.
Maybe he's only willing to share his knowledge on a very short term basis?
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