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| MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Token Black Guy
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: 757, VA
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$3000 to spend on my MKI... what to do?
117,116.6 miles on it right now.
Had it since January, changed the oil immediately after buying the vehicle and then again last week. I have been holding off on doing much to the car (on fear of breaking it) because it was my daily driver (it still is) but I recently bought an Expedition so I can risk it now lol. Only thing I've managed to do so far is upgrade the audio system. I'm running an Alpine iDA-x100, 1 10" Kicker CVT and a Kicker ZX400.1 amp. Looking for a good set of 4" component speakers (and an amp to power them), considering these Rainbow SLX 210's or these CDT's. That's not really where I'm looking for you all's help at though. The only things in the plans right now besides those speakers and another amp are new floor mats (these) and the complete brake restoration package from twosrus.com (upgraded to R4S pads and powerslotted rotors). With the brakes and mats coming to roughly $700, that leaves around ~$300 for my speakers and amp, so that works out perfect. So, I have another $2000 or so to throw at this car. What should I do? Some things that I probably need to take care of are the rust behind the front wheels (was packed with leaves when I bought the car, but I have since removed them all) but I have no clue where to start with that. I'm not looking to make a race car or anything but I want to slightly bump the performance of the car altogether. There are some cosmetic things I want to do, but I want to make sure everything is running mechanically first. So with new brakes coming, what else should I focus on? Im thinking it might be a good time to replace all my spark plugs and wires, any recommendations? Anyone have the Weapon R intake? Any reviews on that or any other intakes would be appreciated. I believe when I first signed up a few people said one of the first modifications I should make was the exhaust, so I'm looking for recommendations on one of those too. Here is a picture of my engine bay. ![]() As you can see it is covered in oil, whatever the oil problem this engine had was fixed before I got the car, but my uncle who is a mechanic recommended that I get it cleaned so if another oil issue ever arises I will be able to tell instantly just by looking at the engine bay. How would I go about making my precious 4age look new again? My dad told me to grab some degreaser and spray it on and then wash it off, but he said he's never done it before so I would like to hear from someone who actually has. The little thingy that goes over the back window, that usually says toyota--where can I find one of those at? Is there anywhere online where I can get one or is my best bet a junkyard? Also my dumbass didn't realize that you were supposed to store the sunroof in the frunk when I first got the car, so I was riding around with it behind my seat and one day when I forgot it was back there I went to put my seat back and cracked it. It doesn't let water in but I never take off the black sunroof cover now because a) it looks really ugly and b) I'm scared the bass my CVT is pumping out might cause it to crack and shatter all over me. I guess I should just see a glass repair expert on that one. Also want to throw on a set of 15" or 16" wheels, I'm looking for something with black spokes and a red lip, but I haven't really found anything too appealing yet so that can wait. The $3000 only includes parts and not installation, although most anything I buy will probably be professionally installed. I think I'm going to take a crack at the brakes my self, a friend of mine who manages a Tune Up Plus told me that it really isnt that hard and that he would help me out. So... let the recommendations start rolling in. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: dirty jerzey
Posts: 201
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Have you considered doing power mods? The 4age is a really fun engine to mod apparently. I don't know much about the mk1, but if I were you I would consider splurging on a 4a-gze or a 20v motor. A little more oomph yeaah buddy. Or turbo that beast.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to nikn For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-02-2009) |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Bakersfield CA
Posts: 224
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Clean your engine/engine bay & inspect for leaks,then do a tune up to the engine such as belts fuel filter ect if need to be replaced.then i would look at the paint & see if i would do a $3,000 pro paint job if not i would replace some interior pieces that are less then in good condition.ok if not i would add some new tires & rimes, rubber mats, new shift noob & a after market engine lid
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Redfox For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-02-2009) |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Token Black Guy
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: 757, VA
Posts: 12
Thanks: 19
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I forgot to mention my stock shift boot was torn to **** so I bought a new [faux] leather one already, tried replacing the shift knob but the one I bought didn't fit, but Im actually fine with the stock one.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Curve Hugger
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: BC
Posts: 1,600
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i'm with nikn on sticking in the 20 valve
If you have the time and are willing to do the vast majority of the work yourself.If your not willing to do that, then new exhaust is a good mod. Put on a header and new bigger exhaust, and depending on how bad smog laws are enforced in your area, chop the cat off. I get away with that where i live because cops here don't really stop people over to check that they still have smog stuff on their car, and my exhaust isn't that obnoxious. TRD i think still even makes the header for it Is this what you were talking about for a weapon r intake? Weapon*R Racing Development Cause you can rig something up yourself for cheaper i'm sure. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ebouwman For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Crazy Nasty Honey Badger
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,235
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If you get a 20V and it is a silvertop the blacktop headers are a larger diameter and flow quite good if you find some cheap.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 328FTW For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Curve Hugger
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: BC
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Did the blacktop ever even come to north America? Or are they only ever an import?
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ebouwman For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#8 (permalink) |
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it started! yes!
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Washington
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okay you should get a 4agze FROM A MR2!!!! thats the key with the harness and the ecu. Then get a bigger supercharger pulley for more boost. and a short shifter is always fun.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Kevin mr2 1985 For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#9 (permalink) |
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U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sunny South Florida
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1. hows the suspension
2. i have seen some MK1's in junkyards with good sunroofs 3. make sure you cover the electronics (ignitor,coil,and distributor) if you clean the motor. also take the spark plug valley cover off and make sure you get all the water out of there or your car will run like crap. GL |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to muffinman For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Chattanooga, TN area
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Headers and or a new intake will do very little@ best. Only real difference might occur at WOT and high RPM. In real world driving, the improvement will be about ZERO. 20 Valver is the way to go, BTW people are claiming a MPG improvement as well! I reccomend that U do NOT spend $$ on a tuneup, save money for a real upgrade.
Brakes are fairly easy, so go ahead and do them yourself, especially if U can get some experienced assistance. MK1's are 20+ years old, U R upgrading the brakes, maybe upgrade the suspension as well!!! This modification will be applicable/carryover if U later upgrade the engine, unlike a tuneup/enhancement on the current engine. HID with good housings, not Ebay crap. Not only a cosmetic enhancement, but increases visibility which makes night time driving safer. U sound like a newbie, buying some quality tools and a good storage device might be a wise investment. Have fun, remember saftety, and MR2 enthusists are the greatest people in the world. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Kerry Phillips For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#11 (permalink) | ||
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Curve Hugger
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: BC
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Quote:
Quote:
lol |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ebouwman For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Norwalk, CA
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wow.. a lot of $$$ to do an upgrade. I'd start with what it really needs interior/exterior then do the engine..... Good luck.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to masagsxr For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Crazy Nasty Honey Badger
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,235
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Hmmmmm well thinking about it if I had 3g to spend on my 2 I would do all the essential maintenance like oil and filter etc and then get the cam covers power coated and the engine bay clean as a cheap way of bringing the standard up and then just wait till a cheap 20v or 4agze happens along by watching local papers and ebay etc. When you get one you can sell your old engine and if it looks good you should get most of what the powder coating cost back anyway.
Patience is a good thing during a swap and having time to plan and gather parts for a swap makes it so much easier. Reason I say this is I just scored a complete 20v silvertop for $100 today which, have been keeping an eye out for one for a while. I haven't a clue what to do with it but it was $100 and still had the ITBs on it. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 328FTW For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Crazy Nasty Honey Badger
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,235
Thanks: 24
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Double post again <_<
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 328FTW For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Some Skills
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its a 20 year old car; id replace wear and tear items such as ball joints, tie rods, bushings, brake lines, shocks/springs before considering motor swaps and body kits.
and get oem stuff; its worth the extra money to have perfect fit and performance every time. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 240kat For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Curve Hugger
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: BC
Posts: 1,600
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ebouwman For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Crazy Nasty Honey Badger
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,235
Thanks: 24
Thanked 266 Times in 239 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 328FTW For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Curve Hugger
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: BC
Posts: 1,600
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Thanked 51 Times in 51 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ebouwman For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Customizer
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Columbus, GA, Daytona, FL before long
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Get a GZE long block, good EMS, and turbo it
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Conceptz-X For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Crazy Nasty Honey Badger
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,235
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Quote:
![]() Not particularly it has taken me 4 years to find a good working one this cheap. He threw in some extras as well. Which I get to see when it arrives ![]() If I swap this into one of my old 2 I will not have a stock car except for my DD 2, they will all be conversions. I don't know if that a good thing or not. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 328FTW For This Useful Post: | JTriz87 (04-07-2009) |
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