How long to replace timing belt and clutch?

herbivor · 07-11-2009, 11:30 PM

I've done these items before on other cars but have never done it on a mid-engine car. From what I've read in the BGB, it looks a bit more difficult. How long should I plan for these jobs? Was planning to do them at the same time.
Unfortunately I don't have a lift, so I'll be doing this on my back. Yippee.

Jackstand Queen · 07-12-2009, 12:05 AM

If you worked really long hard days, by yourself, figure about 2 days if you're fast and have a lot of tools.

Double that time if you're an average backyard mechanic.

Add even more days as you discover other problems that need to be fixed in the process. Don't forget parts delays.

toyotaspeed90 · 07-12-2009, 07:07 PM

If you have to do both the clutch and the timing belt I would recommend pulling the motor. For someone that knows these cars it takes about an hour and a half to get the motor/trans from running form to sitting on the ground. at this point getting the clutch replaced (on your own) is probably about an hour. Timing belt, if you don't replace the front pump seal, shouldn't take more than 20-30 minutes out of the car.

Getting the motor bolted back in takes about an hour, then hooking everything back up & getting the clutch line & coolant bled takes about another hour or so.

So, for someone that really knows these cars doing both would take 6 hours or so if working straight and doesn't have any 'kinks'.

Jackstand Queen · 07-12-2009, 07:44 PM

herbivor:

Let us know how long it takes you to do those two jobs.

Toyspeed90 must be a whirlwind of incredibly efficient motion and tool usage to do things so fast. I'd forget things, or do things out of sequence if I tried to go that fast. Also I stop to clean up each part as I go along, including bolts even.

herbivor · 07-12-2009, 09:05 PM

Unfortunately, I don't know these cars or have a lift or even a garage. I do have tools and some good experience with my BMW but I think it will likely be a two full weekend job if I don't get interrupted by my wife or kid, so likely 10 weekends.

Jackstand Queen · 07-12-2009, 11:05 PM

You're gonna run out of good weather if you take too long. Study up on the "stickies" on this board, to get a good overview of the processes.

Good Luck

toyotaspeed90 · 07-13-2009, 01:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jackstand Queen

herbivor:

Let us know how long it takes you to do those two jobs.

Toyspeed90 must be a whirlwind of incredibly efficient motion and tool usage to do things so fast. I'd forget things, or do things out of sequence if I tried to go that fast. Also I stop to clean up each part as I go along, including bolts even.

When you do it a lot, you realize how simple it actually is. The mr2's are unique since the motors come down -- but it's very simple to do since there's no cross bracing.

Realistically what needs to be done when pulling the motor:

Disconnect the carcoal canister vacuum line and the AFM/tubing
disconnect coolant hose from inlet (intake side of #1)
Disconnect coolant hose from t-stat to pipe (at pipe end)
disconnect heater core lines (from pipe ends)
disconnect the clutch line (soft line meets up with hardline at the body)
Disconnect the axles (each held in by 1 pin and 1 large c-clip)
Unbolt the DP from the exhaust manifold -- if the exhaust is anywhere near stock you should be able to just slide it all out from it's mounts and get it out of the car
disconnect the throttle cable (and cruise control cable if applicable)
disconnect the wiring from the ecu, COR, and molex, push it through the firewall.
remove the wheels, unbolt the 30mm axle nuts (slide the axle into the hub then pull it back to get the large washer out as well in a controlled manner...) from under the car on each axle unbolt the 6 nuts holding the axles to the stubs, then pull them out of the hubs.

unbolt the front motormount from mount and then from chasis (3 bolts total)
unbolt the rear motormount from the mount and then from chasis (3 bolts total)
connect the hoist and put tension on the motor
loosen the main bolt on the passenger side mount, then unbolt the 3 bolts holding the 2 pieces together
unbolt the 2 underside bolts on the driver side transmission mount (mount is essentially 2 pieces, leaving the main piece in the body)

motor should be free and clear to drop.

I "timed" (and by that I mean I checked my phone for the time) and was able to get the motor & trans out of my ae92 in less than 90 minutes (this started 30 minutes after I drove the car 30 miles)... process is almost the same but you have to remove the hood, disconnect the harness from the engine (which takes longer) then pull it up.

In a Toyota there's no need to mark any of your electrical stuff as the sensors go on only 1 way and to 1 sensor. The trick on injectors (if your harness gets screwed up somehow) is that 1 and 4 won't have the same color wires (on a 4age).... 1 and 4 will also be obvious based on length.... then just match wire colors on 3 to 1 and 2 to 4..... (only reason to know this is because the injector plugs are the same).

someone · 07-13-2009, 12:41 PM

you will need some way to get the crank pulley off so you can change the Tbelt.

you can use a chain wrench or make the SST out of some steel.

toyotaspeed90 · 07-13-2009, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by someone

you will need some way to get the crank pulley off so you can change the Tbelt.

you can use a chain wrench or make the SST out of some steel.

use a puller......

if you don't have air tools to get the bolt off, use a good pry bar, get it stuck against the ground or the chasis and click the starter over.... the starter will loosen it for you (more than enough torque to do it).

use a pullery on the crank pulley.... you can use a steering wheel style (as there are holes drilled into the pulley) or you can use a jaw style....

herbivor · 07-13-2009, 05:20 PM

I just bought the car from a dealer who got it from a trade in. so I don't know when the timing belt was last changed. Considering this is a non-interference engine, is there any harm if it brakes (besides being stranded)? I just want to know the urgency in changing it. The clutch has a few thousand miles in it before it has to be changed so I was going to prolong this project until I have some good time to work on it. (Fortunately this is a 2nd car so getting it all done in one day is not critical)

mr3 · 07-13-2009, 06:07 PM

My clutch was slipping when I bought it. It wasnt too bad at first but within 150 miles it was gone. Just be easy on it and it may last a little bit but dont expect long.

Jackstand Queen · 07-13-2009, 09:40 PM

No big hurry. At your leisure, take off the top portion of the timing belt cover. Very easy and quick to do. You'll be able to see and feel the belt. If its supple and uncracked . . . you've got years of service left in it.

someone · 07-14-2009, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toyotaspeed90

use a puller......

if you don't have air tools to get the bolt off, use a good pry bar, get it stuck against the ground or the chasis and click the starter over.... the starter will loosen it for you (more than enough torque to do it).

use a pullery on the crank pulley.... you can use a steering wheel style (as there are holes drilled into the pulley) or you can use a jaw style....

for about 15 dollars i was able to make a SST out of a 3' long piece of flat steel and it worked like a charm.

three holes and two bolts

there is a pic somewhere on the web for this tool.

Raptor13x · 07-14-2009, 11:06 AM

This can be done in an evening if you're a professional with the right tools (and don't run into a million rusted on bolts), or it can take a month if you're slow. I'd plan on at least 5 days of downtime, based on a lack of air tools. If you're less motivated, it could take longer.

You really need an engine hoist to get the engine out safely. I can also not emphasize enough how much air tools help out. My impact wrench was the single best investment I ever made dealing with cars.

07-11-2009, 11:30 PM	#1 (permalink)
herbivor No Skills Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 18 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	How long to replace timing belt and clutch? I've done these items before on other cars but have never done it on a mid-engine car. From what I've read in the BGB, it looks a bit more difficult. How long should I plan for these jobs? Was planning to do them at the same time. Unfortunately I don't have a lift, so I'll be doing this on my back. Yippee.

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07-12-2009, 12:05 AM	#2 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	If you worked really long hard days, by yourself, figure about 2 days if you're fast and have a lot of tools. Double that time if you're an average backyard mechanic. Add even more days as you discover other problems that need to be fixed in the process. Don't forget parts delays.

07-12-2009, 07:07 PM	#3 (permalink)
toyotaspeed90 No Skills Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 2,416 Thanks: 0 Thanked 149 Times in 144 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	If you have to do both the clutch and the timing belt I would recommend pulling the motor. For someone that knows these cars it takes about an hour and a half to get the motor/trans from running form to sitting on the ground. at this point getting the clutch replaced (on your own) is probably about an hour. Timing belt, if you don't replace the front pump seal, shouldn't take more than 20-30 minutes out of the car. Getting the motor bolted back in takes about an hour, then hooking everything back up & getting the clutch line & coolant bled takes about another hour or so. So, for someone that really knows these cars doing both would take 6 hours or so if working straight and doesn't have any 'kinks'.

07-12-2009, 07:44 PM	#4 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	herbivor: Let us know how long it takes you to do those two jobs. Toyspeed90 must be a whirlwind of incredibly efficient motion and tool usage to do things so fast. I'd forget things, or do things out of sequence if I tried to go that fast. Also I stop to clean up each part as I go along, including bolts even.

07-12-2009, 09:05 PM	#5 (permalink)
herbivor No Skills Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 18 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Unfortunately, I don't know these cars or have a lift or even a garage. I do have tools and some good experience with my BMW but I think it will likely be a two full weekend job if I don't get interrupted by my wife or kid, so likely 10 weekends.

07-12-2009, 11:05 PM	#6 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	You're gonna run out of good weather if you take too long. Study up on the "stickies" on this board, to get a good overview of the processes. Good Luck

07-13-2009, 12:41 PM	#8 (permalink)
someone looking to go sideways Join Date: May 2009 Location: ATL Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	you will need some way to get the crank pulley off so you can change the Tbelt. you can use a chain wrench or make the SST out of some steel.

07-13-2009, 05:20 PM	#10 (permalink)
herbivor No Skills Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 18 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I just bought the car from a dealer who got it from a trade in. so I don't know when the timing belt was last changed. Considering this is a non-interference engine, is there any harm if it brakes (besides being stranded)? I just want to know the urgency in changing it. The clutch has a few thousand miles in it before it has to be changed so I was going to prolong this project until I have some good time to work on it. (Fortunately this is a 2nd car so getting it all done in one day is not critical)

07-13-2009, 06:07 PM	#11 (permalink)
mr3 unskilled Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa Posts: 2,408 Thanks: 24 Thanked 98 Times in 93 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	My clutch was slipping when I bought it. It wasnt too bad at first but within 150 miles it was gone. Just be easy on it and it may last a little bit but dont expect long.

07-13-2009, 09:40 PM	#12 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	No big hurry. At your leisure, take off the top portion of the timing belt cover. Very easy and quick to do. You'll be able to see and feel the belt. If its supple and uncracked . . . you've got years of service left in it.

07-14-2009, 11:06 AM	#14 (permalink)
Raptor13x Legendary Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Farmington Hills, MI Posts: 3,997 Thanks: 7 Thanked 44 Times in 37 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	This can be done in an evening if you're a professional with the right tools (and don't run into a million rusted on bolts), or it can take a month if you're slow. I'd plan on at least 5 days of downtime, based on a lack of air tools. If you're less motivated, it could take longer. You really need an engine hoist to get the engine out safely. I can also not emphasize enough how much air tools help out. My impact wrench was the single best investment I ever made dealing with cars.