![]() |
|
|
|||||||
| MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE. |
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Lithia Toyota Parts
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,928
Thanks: 33
Thanked 146 Times in 125 Posts
My Google Map |
There's nothing to it, and no writeup necessary. The thermostat is in its own housing over the transmission. It's illustrated here as 16331A:
![]() There are writeups around for the fill procedure. The important thing is that you find the procedure and follow it exactly. All air must be bled from the system, using the correct procedure, for the engine to run properly and safely. There are no shortcuts - PERIOD. One other point - you'll definitely want to use an OEM Toyota thermostat. Parts store replicas (Stant, etc) simply are not made as well and do no operate nearly as reliably or consistently, and it does make a difference in how the car runs and how long it lasts. Everyone disregards this advice the first time, but it's true, so you may as well stat with the right part the first time. Last edited by te51levin; 07-17-2009 at 11:00 AM. |
|
|
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to te51levin For This Useful Post: | esreveRBackwards (07-19-2009) |
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
No Skills
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 433
Thanks: 0
Thanked 32 Times in 32 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
There is a shortcut.....I don't follow procedure as I have a special tool called an Air Lift (puts coolant system under negative pressure then pulls coolant from a bottle straight into the system, filling it air free)..... I HIGHLY recommend this to anyone who has an MR2. Saves time and possible headaches!!! However, you need a good air compressor to run them. I can fill an empty system 100% in about 10 minutes.
I would say get the battery out, move all wires as much as pobbible first.... (if standing from the drivers side) remove the left side only, do not unbolt the right side of the housing from the transmission. There are 2 bolts that hold it together, remove those, but try to hold it closed. Have your ready thermostat (with gasket) in one hand and attempt to (quickly and smoothly) pull the housing apart, pull the old out, install the new, and put the housings back together. Doing this quickly will help in the loss of coolant. |
|
|
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to toyotaspeed90 For This Useful Post: | esreveRBackwards (07-19-2009) |
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
Lithia Toyota Parts
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,928
Thanks: 33
Thanked 146 Times in 125 Posts
My Google Map |
I stand corrected, but most home mechanics don't have the necessary equipment. I'm super paranoid about shortcuts, so I'd want to visually confirm an absence of air by the factory procedure even after a vacuum fill.
|
|
|
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to te51levin For This Useful Post: | esreveRBackwards (07-22-2009) |
|
|
#5 (permalink) |
|
Some Skills
|
![]() Well i swapped out the thermo. Thx everyone. Still leaking tho. seems to be coming from the part the arrow is pointing to ... ...Is there a gasket besides the one that goes around the thermostat? Maybe one that goes between 16321 and 16323? Also, the old thermo was 1/2 gone. only thing left was the front 1/2.. the other 1/2 was nowhere to be found. could it have been in there so long it rusted and broke off? Dont sound good if it broke off. It was not inside 16323.. what if it is further up or down the cooling system? Last edited by esreveRBackwards; 07-19-2009 at 11:50 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) | ||
|
Lithia Toyota Parts
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,928
Thanks: 33
Thanked 146 Times in 125 Posts
My Google Map |
Quote:
Quote:
|
||
|
|
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to te51levin For This Useful Post: | esreveRBackwards (07-23-2009) |
|
|
#7 (permalink) | |
|
Some Skills
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|