custom cold air placement?

88*mr2 · 08-08-2009, 11:43 PM

my buddy has some 2 1/2 steel piping that he suggested i use for a custom cold air...but im not sure where to place the filter so if anyone has a cold air on ther 2 post up some pics so i can see thanks

1988 mr2

traintech86 · 08-09-2009, 12:58 AM

i had the idea of somehow moving the gas lid cover, and then putting a second vent on that side of the car. not sure if ill ever get around to doing it but it might help with a cold air. that and relocating your battery to the frunk. then you could run the filter up in there.

como · 08-09-2009, 07:01 PM

I had that same thought, but I don't know what's involved in relocating that gas fill port. I wouldn't mind having it up on the plate on the side of the engine lid, but I've never done anything of it.

I'd love to have an identical vent on the driver side

mr3 · 08-09-2009, 08:00 PM

Moving the gas filler is a bad idea. It was talked about quite a few times in the past and most of the people who did it regretted it. They moved it to that panel next to the engine lid and put an intake scoop where the gas door was but they smelled fuel fumes often and the noise from the intake was really loud because it was right behind the drivers seat. You could just relocate the battery to the frunk and run the filter to the battery location. There is plenty of air that comes up from the bottem of the car to be able to make that effective.

Papo J · 08-09-2009, 08:27 PM

The stock 88-89 filter location is already a cold air setup. The air enters the trunk trough the top of the side vent, all you really need is a better filter.

traintech86 · 08-10-2009, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr3

Moving the gas filler is a bad idea. It was talked about quite a few times in the past and most of the people who did it regretted it. They moved it to that panel next to the engine lid and put an intake scoop where the gas door was but they smelled fuel fumes often and the noise from the intake was really loud because it was right behind the drivers seat. You could just relocate the battery to the frunk and run the filter to the battery location. There is plenty of air that comes up from the bottem of the car to be able to make that effective.

the noise is ok with me, the fumes... not sure whats up with that one. all in all i think it would be worth the awesome!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Papo J

The stock 88-89 filter location is already a cold air setup. The air enters the trunk trough the top of the side vent, all you really need is a better filter.

i picked up the parts to use that cold air setup and from what i gather, the older system isn't really worth using. i could have heard wrong but everyone was sayin the performance filter in the engine bay is fine.

Papo J · 08-10-2009, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by traintech86

i picked up the parts to use that cold air setup and from what i gather, the older system isn't really worth using. i could have heard wrong but everyone was sayin the performance filter in the engine bay is fine.

It is fine but, you're also ingesting a lot of hot air from the engine bay that you wouldn't with the stock setup.

Timon · 08-11-2009, 01:40 AM

I relocated the battery to the frunk and then purchased the standard pipe from the local auto parts store. It now sits between the fuse box and the metal bracket the battery sat on. Works just fine imo.

88*mr2 · 08-12-2009, 02:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Papo J

The stock 88-89 filter location is already a cold air setup. The air enters the trunk trough the top of the side vent, all you really need is a better filter.

well trunks get hot lol atleast mine dose... a new CA intake would be simpler setup and easy

88*mr2 · 08-15-2009, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timon

I relocated the battery to the frunk and then purchased the standard pipe from the local auto parts store. It now sits between the fuse box and the metal bracket the battery sat on. Works just fine imo.

how difficult was doing that? u just run the cables under the car?

Timon · 08-15-2009, 11:35 PM

I actually ran them through the interior. I'm in Utah and with our winters I didn't want my battery cable being under the car as I plow through snow

.

It wasn't as bad as I thought. It forced me to do quite a bit of crap due to a shotty job connecting the new cable to the old one. I ended up replacing the starter thinking that was bad when really all I needed was a distribution box to connect the cables.

Running the wiring was easy for the most part. Start in the frunk and work your way back. There's a hole in the firewall on the top of the passenger's side firewall in the frunk. It'll take some motivation and elbow grease to get all the cable through it. It will eventually drop down under the glove box on the passenger's side. Pull it through and leave it all on the passenger's side foot well area. If you look up into the foot well you'll see a plastic air box, which sits about an inch away from the firewall on the inside. You should be able to see one of the bolts hold the air box in, run the cable above bolt against the firewall. This will put the cabling right behind (and down about 2-3 inches) from the stereo. Unbolt radio bezel and the center console. Run the cable all the way back under the console. Get behind the driver's side seat and pull out the clips holding the rear carpet on. You should be able to just pull it up and not out completely. You'll find a hole in the rear firewall around the engine lid pop, I can't remember if it's above or below it. This should put the cable in the engine bay right behind your fuse box. Connect the new cable to your old cable(s) and you should be good to go.

como · 08-16-2009, 11:53 AM

How much cable and what guage did you use? Stripping out my interior this week and want to run some cables to relocate my battery in the future.

88*mr2 · 08-16-2009, 04:21 PM

post up some pics of ur intakes
thanks!

traintech86 · 08-17-2009, 04:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by como

How much cable and what guage did you use? Stripping out my interior this week and want to run some cables to relocate my battery in the future.

i bought cable for this and it wasn't to bad. i went to the local auto shop and bought 2 11 foot cables which i am sure is overkill, but i wanted to be sure. the shop should have a roll and cut it to size but it was some beefy cable. if i had a guess it is like 8-10 gauge? don't hold me to it but its thick as hell. the stuff i got is like 2 times as thick as what was in my car. ran me about 30 bucks or so.

as for running it, there is a hole under the glove box to the frunk and one thats behind the driver seat to the engine bay.

Tooljst8 · 08-22-2009, 05:36 PM

My 88 had the intake routed into the trunk. I used a 3" tube and it mounted perfectly into the steel tube that runs through the rear firewall in the engine bay.

Sounds throaty now and i like it.

I have the old air box and plastic tubing put away until winter. I like to replace the stock one when it gets very cold.

Also i wish my paint on the exterior was as shiny as the underside of my frunk and trunk...

curvesrgood · 08-26-2009, 12:23 PM

You don't necessarily have to move the fuel filler to add a side vent (stock size yes, but you can do something custom like we did on one of mine). I moved my battery into the trunk rather than the frunk and was VERY happy with that. I wanted the extra weight on the rear personally. My battery is actually parked where the above intake is located in the trunk. Here are several pics of mine... I'll add pics of the air box when we finish that up... I'm laid up from surgery right now and we're busy on another project right now, but this is coming up soon once I get back going.

Hancock Motorsports Custom MR2 Side Scoops

como · 08-26-2009, 07:40 PM

Those aren't bad looking scoops. Perhaps I should consider some sort of custom scoop for my mk1 driverside...

traintech86 · 08-30-2009, 05:01 AM

yes is there a kit for scoops like that? i like how it looks!

curvesrgood · 08-30-2009, 10:36 AM

We're planning to produce a kit for sale soon with a functional cold air box so you can still clean your cone filter, but it will be pulling outside air only instead of warm engine bay air... we've finished sandblasting and are priming my 65 Mustang project now and I'm recovering well from my surgery, so I'll be back up and working again in another week... once I get that Mustang out of the shop we'll be back on the MR2 projects, including producing scoop kits and decklids as I've got quite a list of folks interested. It has been 2 or 3 years since we produced the original set so I can't verify any kind or pricing yet until I check back with a few folks involved. I have to farm out the louvers and we've got to fit another set of scoops to get the radius correct to match up to the side of the car. These are already blueprinted and all that jazz, so we aren't too far now. Also picked up a plasma cutter and a few other tools recently which will greatly help out with some of this stuff.

traintech86 · 08-31-2009, 11:00 PM

oh shoot you're in NC? hell man i could drive down there and pick em up lmao! what part?

08-08-2009, 11:43 PM	#1 (permalink)
88mr2 mk1 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: iOWA Posts: 73 Thanks: 12 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0%* )	custom cold air placement? my buddy has some 2 1/2 steel piping that he suggested i use for a custom cold air...but im not sure where to place the filter so if anyone has a cold air on ther 2 post up some pics so i can see thanks 1988 mr2

08-22-2009, 05:36 PM	#15 (permalink)
Tooljst8 ლ(ಠ益ಠლ) Join Date: May 2009 Location: NY Posts: 96 Thanks: 7 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	My 88 had the intake routed into the trunk. I used a 3" tube and it mounted perfectly into the steel tube that runs through the rear firewall in the engine bay. Sounds throaty now and i like it. I have the old air box and plastic tubing put away until winter. I like to replace the stock one when it gets very cold. Also i wish my paint on the exterior was as shiny as the underside of my frunk and trunk... Last edited by Tooljst8; 08-22-2009 at 06:09 PM..

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08-09-2009, 12:58 AM	#2 (permalink)
traintech86 Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2009 Location: Yokosuka, Kanagawa Japan Posts: 1,799 Thanks: 27 Thanked 47 Times in 43 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	i had the idea of somehow moving the gas lid cover, and then putting a second vent on that side of the car. not sure if ill ever get around to doing it but it might help with a cold air. that and relocating your battery to the frunk. then you could run the filter up in there.

08-09-2009, 07:01 PM	#3 (permalink)
como Road Warrior Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Maine Posts: 652 Thanks: 13 Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	I had that same thought, but I don't know what's involved in relocating that gas fill port. I wouldn't mind having it up on the plate on the side of the engine lid, but I've never done anything of it. I'd love to have an identical vent on the driver side

08-09-2009, 08:00 PM	#4 (permalink)
mr3 unskilled Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa Posts: 2,406 Thanks: 24 Thanked 98 Times in 93 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	Moving the gas filler is a bad idea. It was talked about quite a few times in the past and most of the people who did it regretted it. They moved it to that panel next to the engine lid and put an intake scoop where the gas door was but they smelled fuel fumes often and the noise from the intake was really loud because it was right behind the drivers seat. You could just relocate the battery to the frunk and run the filter to the battery location. There is plenty of air that comes up from the bottem of the car to be able to make that effective.

08-09-2009, 08:27 PM	#5 (permalink)
Papo J 6SPD GTE Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 588 Thanks: 2 Thanked 50 Times in 49 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	The stock 88-89 filter location is already a cold air setup. The air enters the trunk trough the top of the side vent, all you really need is a better filter.

08-11-2009, 01:40 AM	#8 (permalink)
Timon MR2 MKI AW11 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Utah Posts: 669 Thanks: 13 Thanked 42 Times in 37 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I relocated the battery to the frunk and then purchased the standard pipe from the local auto parts store. It now sits between the fuse box and the metal bracket the battery sat on. Works just fine imo.

08-15-2009, 11:35 PM	#11 (permalink)
Timon MR2 MKI AW11 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Utah Posts: 669 Thanks: 13 Thanked 42 Times in 37 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I actually ran them through the interior. I'm in Utah and with our winters I didn't want my battery cable being under the car as I plow through snow . It wasn't as bad as I thought. It forced me to do quite a bit of crap due to a shotty job connecting the new cable to the old one. I ended up replacing the starter thinking that was bad when really all I needed was a distribution box to connect the cables. Running the wiring was easy for the most part. Start in the frunk and work your way back. There's a hole in the firewall on the top of the passenger's side firewall in the frunk. It'll take some motivation and elbow grease to get all the cable through it. It will eventually drop down under the glove box on the passenger's side. Pull it through and leave it all on the passenger's side foot well area. If you look up into the foot well you'll see a plastic air box, which sits about an inch away from the firewall on the inside. You should be able to see one of the bolts hold the air box in, run the cable above bolt against the firewall. This will put the cabling right behind (and down about 2-3 inches) from the stereo. Unbolt radio bezel and the center console. Run the cable all the way back under the console. Get behind the driver's side seat and pull out the clips holding the rear carpet on. You should be able to just pull it up and not out completely. You'll find a hole in the rear firewall around the engine lid pop, I can't remember if it's above or below it. This should put the cable in the engine bay right behind your fuse box. Connect the new cable to your old cable(s) and you should be good to go.

08-16-2009, 11:53 AM	#12 (permalink)
como Road Warrior Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Maine Posts: 652 Thanks: 13 Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	How much cable and what guage did you use? Stripping out my interior this week and want to run some cables to relocate my battery in the future.

08-16-2009, 04:21 PM	#13 (permalink)
88mr2 mk1 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: iOWA Posts: 73 Thanks: 12 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0%* )	post up some pics of ur intakes thanks!

08-26-2009, 12:23 PM	#16 (permalink)
curvesrgood three mk1's Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: NC Posts: 499 Thanks: 8 Thanked 33 Times in 28 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	You don't necessarily have to move the fuel filler to add a side vent (stock size yes, but you can do something custom like we did on one of mine). I moved my battery into the trunk rather than the frunk and was VERY happy with that. I wanted the extra weight on the rear personally. My battery is actually parked where the above intake is located in the trunk. Here are several pics of mine... I'll add pics of the air box when we finish that up... I'm laid up from surgery right now and we're busy on another project right now, but this is coming up soon once I get back going. Hancock Motorsports Custom MR2 Side Scoops

08-26-2009, 07:40 PM	#17 (permalink)
como Road Warrior Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Maine Posts: 652 Thanks: 13 Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Those aren't bad looking scoops. Perhaps I should consider some sort of custom scoop for my mk1 driverside...

08-30-2009, 05:01 AM	#18 (permalink)
traintech86 Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2009 Location: Yokosuka, Kanagawa Japan Posts: 1,799 Thanks: 27 Thanked 47 Times in 43 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	yes is there a kit for scoops like that? i like how it looks!

08-30-2009, 10:36 AM	#19 (permalink)
curvesrgood three mk1's Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: NC Posts: 499 Thanks: 8 Thanked 33 Times in 28 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	We're planning to produce a kit for sale soon with a functional cold air box so you can still clean your cone filter, but it will be pulling outside air only instead of warm engine bay air... we've finished sandblasting and are priming my 65 Mustang project now and I'm recovering well from my surgery, so I'll be back up and working again in another week... once I get that Mustang out of the shop we'll be back on the MR2 projects, including producing scoop kits and decklids as I've got quite a list of folks interested. It has been 2 or 3 years since we produced the original set so I can't verify any kind or pricing yet until I check back with a few folks involved. I have to farm out the louvers and we've got to fit another set of scoops to get the radius correct to match up to the side of the car. These are already blueprinted and all that jazz, so we aren't too far now. Also picked up a plasma cutter and a few other tools recently which will greatly help out with some of this stuff.

08-31-2009, 11:00 PM	#20 (permalink)
traintech86 Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2009 Location: Yokosuka, Kanagawa Japan Posts: 1,799 Thanks: 27 Thanked 47 Times in 43 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	oh shoot you're in NC? hell man i could drive down there and pick em up lmao! what part?