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MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE.

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Old 08-15-2009, 01:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
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So... my 20v BT gave the #4 con rod an eviction notice...

A week and a half ago, while going down the highway, I started hearing what became obvious was rod knock. It started off really faint, and I barely heard it, and gradually became a little louder. I thought I'd just limp home and deal with it there. Like 8 miles out, the knocking starts getting really loud, then BOOM ssskkkchhhhkkkkssss*crunch*bang*thumpthumpthump*kk kkkssssshhhhhhhh....aaaaand dead. Smoke pouring out the back, coming inside the cabin, etc... so I pull down the offramp and roll to a stop. Get it towed home. Knowing the engine was fu#ked, I ordered a new one. So, today (well, yesterday now), I pulled the engine out and tore it completely down.

So begins the saga.



10:00am, the car has been pushed up the driveway into the garage. Ready to begin!



Poor engine



12:15pm, after screwing with a couple minor things for 45 minutes, the engine is out of the car. 2 hours and 15 minutes! Not bad!



If you look closely, you'll see something... something... not so good.



Empty engine bay, yet again!



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Old 08-15-2009, 01:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The new engine arrives!





Trans off, and there goes my $9/quart redline MT90 all over the floor.





New engine, undressed! Yes, it's an auto trans. Of course that's coming off.







This time, it came with the ignitor and coil (why wasn't there one for sale cheap with one last time?)



An ECU as well! I should be able to sell it and at least recoup some of my money.

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Old 08-15-2009, 01:42 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Oil pan removed (which had a hole blown through it) Why am I seeing through the block!??



Oh, that's nice.





Beautiful!







Nope, not workin' so well no more.











The garage floor was basically clean, I was doing so well, and then it happened. I tripped over the bucket which I had drained all the oil into, dumping it *EVERY FU#KING WHERE* Goddammit. Exxon Valdez strikes again!







Poor old engine block.... you now get to sit outside, until I feel like taking you to some metal recycling place.





I cleaned... somewhat. I had to leave, so I got the big stuff... and I get to do the rest tomorrow. Fun fun.

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Old 08-15-2009, 11:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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When blacktops blow up, this is how they normally do it. You should be able to recoupe some of your money by selling the 20v ae111 harness and the ecu. You could probably get $400 for all your electronics.

Then for your old head and itb's you could probably get another $300 depending on if your head survived.

Replacing the motor when something like this happens is generally a better way to go than rebuilding. Rebuilding usually ends up really expensive.
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Old 08-15-2009, 01:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Dang...that's ugly! Definitely a case of "I hate it when that happens".

I'm no ballistics expert, but I'm assuming the rod bolt let go, which then caused all the other stuff to fall down go boom. I can't see how the rod would break and cause the bolt to come out, so I'm guessing the bolt(s) failed first.
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Old 08-15-2009, 03:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I've heard "Kicking the Bucket" isn't a good thing, guess your pictures prove it.

Sorry to see a BT die, tough luck man.

Just out of curiosity, did you take the rod bolt out or was it broken when you pulled the pan?
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Old 08-15-2009, 03:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Dude that sucks you didn't make it home. Last bearing I ran was making me brace for that to happen but for some reason it didn't. You could probably make a cool looking sculpture with the bits, if we use my blown diff for the base and your rod for the top part you could make something that would make people wonder what the hell happened
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Old 08-15-2009, 04:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr220v View Post
When blacktops blow up, this is how they normally do it.
I'm starting to plan out a 20V swap. Is this a common failure on the blacktop? Does the silvertop do it less?
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by te51levin View Post
I'm no ballistics expert, but I'm assuming the rod bolt let go, which then caused all the other stuff to fall down go boom. I can't see how the rod would break and cause the bolt to come out, so I'm guessing the bolt(s) failed first.
That very well could have been it.


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Just out of curiosity, did you take the rod bolt out or was it broken when you pulled the pan?
I found the rod bolt under the car. It had exited the vehicle. I wasn't sure where it had come from until I pulled the engine apart.
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 328FTW View Post
Dude that sucks you didn't make it home. Last bearing I ran was making me brace for that to happen but for some reason it didn't. You could probably make a cool looking sculpture with the bits, if we use my blown diff for the base and your rod for the top part you could make something that would make people wonder what the hell happened
haha, I'm keeping the pistons as souvenirs. Maybe the crankshaft will adorn my desk as well.
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr220v View Post
When blacktops blow up, this is how they normally do it. You should be able to recoupe some of your money by selling the 20v ae111 harness and the ecu. You could probably get $400 for all your electronics.

Then for your old head and itb's you could probably get another $300 depending on if your head survived.

Replacing the motor when something like this happens is generally a better way to go than rebuilding. Rebuilding usually ends up really expensive.
I paid $750 for the new engine, shipped. So I think it's very possible I could recoup almost the entire investment. Rebuilding it would have been stupid, probably costing $1000+, even if there wasn't a hole in the block, and there would be nothing to recoup.

I have an automatic transmission (no idea what it's compatible with yet), torque converter, an ECU, the wiring harness, a map sensor, coil/ignitor, power steering pump, AC compressor, alternator, 20v head, exhaust manifold, throttle bodies, airbox, etc. I didn't see any damage to the head, and based on how the engine went, I see no reason why it would be damaged, but I'm gonna go over it with a fine tooth comb and make sure before I sell it. Hell, I might even be able to make money on this, lol.
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:52 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Anyway, status update for saturday:

I transferred over the proper transmission, clutch, flywheel, etc. The engine is now in the car, properly mounted, ready to go. I found that I damaged a couple wires when I dropped the engine initially, and the only functional soldering iron I have was 20 miles away, so I called it for the night. All I have to do tomorrow is reattach 4 wires, change the oil, add trans fluid, and add coolant, and it should be ready to go. Oh, I also discovered my shifter bushings are HORRIBLE (one is bad looking, and the other was ripped so badly it fell out- I mistook it for garbage and threw it away), so I'm going to replace them. I think someone sells really nice brass replacements that are supposed to be really good. I may try those out.
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Old 08-16-2009, 01:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raptor13x View Post
I paid $750 for the new engine, shipped.
Bargain. Sounds like a hell of a deal.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Raptor13x View Post
I have an automatic transmission (no idea what it's compatible with yet)
Well, physically, should bolt up to any A-series engine. As far us being useful in a car and compatible with the car's ECU etc, we may never know. But it does suggest that your engine may not be as thrashed as the same thing with a manual transmission, as it's a lot harder to abuse an engine when the tranny is keeping it at modest RPM most of the time.


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exhaust manifold
I'd like to buy that if you're not in love with it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Raptor13x View Post
Oh, I also discovered my shifter bushings are HORRIBLE (one is bad looking, and the other was ripped so badly it fell out- I mistook it for garbage and threw it away), so I'm going to replace them. I think someone sells really nice brass replacements that are supposed to be really good. I may try those out.
Speed Source makes them.
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Old 08-16-2009, 11:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The manifold is for sale- how much were you looking to spend?

I just ordered some new Speed Source shifter bushings- they were $12 shipped on ebay, and $25-35 plus shipping everywhere else. I love ebay.
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:28 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The manifold is for sale- how much were you looking to spend?
I'm on a pretty tight budget and this is basically for development and experimentation, so mo' cheaper, mo' better. I can do $40 shipped if that's OK with you.


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I just ordered some new Speed Source shifter bushings- they were $12 shipped on ebay, and $25-35 plus shipping everywhere else. I love ebay.
I used to love eBay, until it became so flooded with Chinese trinkets that I couldn't find the stuff I was looking for. Of course, the high volume crap peddlers make more money for eBay, so that's who they now support and endorse. The world keeps changing whether I'm with it or not
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Old 08-19-2009, 01:17 PM   #16 (permalink)
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What was your zip code? I need to figure out how much shipping would cost.
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Old 08-19-2009, 01:25 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Are you up and running yet?
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Old 08-19-2009, 01:27 PM   #18 (permalink)
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what all do u need to plan for the 20v swap because Im thinking about doing a swap and was wondering how much work is involved
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Old 08-19-2009, 01:55 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Are you up and running yet?
Yep, all up and running.
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Old 08-19-2009, 02:02 PM   #20 (permalink)
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damn that sucks... but BRAVO for a quick recovery and for being able to do all the work yourself...


thats really impressive... Im happy its all square away now
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