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MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE.

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Old 08-25-2009, 04:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Trunk & Frunk Padding Can Cause Rust

So, I've gotten around to restoring the Frunk & Trunk on my '85 Mk1 to new condition which meant removing all of the padding that is in there. I knew there was some rustiness but thought it was only surface. As I sanded it down for priming, I got some tiny rust-through holes in a couple areas in the Trunk. The Frunk is OK. I am in the process of treating the base metal/rusty areas with Rustoleum and plan to paint over that with Duplicolor truck bed coating, thick enough to prevent any new rust from ever forming.

My first question is, should I put the old spongy trunk pad back in there? I am certain that it is what caused moisture to sit against the metal long enough to cause rust in the first place, but with the bed liner painted on it should not be a problem any more. It does provide cushion for the carpet that goes over it and might possibly reduce heat from the exhaust components directly under it. Also thought about lining it with Dynamat as an added measure.

Second question, since the rust-though is right above the muffler area, what undercoating should I use on the underside that can stand up to the heat of the muffler/cat?

Any ideas?
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Old 08-25-2009, 08:37 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I do believe that stuff is garbage and should not be kept in the cars. I've took it out of both my cars. The 88 had rust through the trunk and I do think that insulation had something to do with it. I am thinking about the "super insulation" it doesnt look like it will soak up water and hold it like the original mat.
Tru-Max BLIP12406 - Tru-Max Super Insulator Mats-Overview – SummitRacing.com
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Old 08-25-2009, 07:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hey mr3, thanks for the idea! That stuff looks bullet proof. And it's larger than the old trunk pad, so I can just use the old trunk pad to trace a template.
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Old 09-04-2009, 05:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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the only AW11s that I've owned that showed any rust in the frunk were due to brake fluid spilling.... the only 1 aw11 that I've owned that showed any rust in the rear trunk was one that I found out had been in a bad accident....

if you're getting that much moisture in your trunk, then there's a bad seal leak.... my wifes mr2 has a trunk lid with no spoiler (meant for a spoiler... IE water gets in) and it's always bone dry in there... and we live in a wet climate.
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Old 09-11-2009, 06:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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When I get a new Mark 1 car I drill holes in the floor area below the ECU and the beam bottom that attaches to the rear motor mount.

This area does not drain and as the floor rusts away the bolts attaching the rear motor mount will be compromised.

(The idea of a non-moisture holding material under the carpet is a great one.)
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Old 09-13-2009, 12:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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if i have the padding out of my trunk i can look through the back corner of the fender right through to the ground...i need to fix it pretty bad..but i'm not relaly sure how to cost effectivly
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Old 09-14-2009, 03:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Reminds me of Dynamat
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Old 09-15-2009, 12:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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and come to think of it...as well as a solution to the problem lol...could anybody take pictures of hte car with the mudflaps off so I can see what I have to reproduce to put them in?
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Old 09-16-2009, 10:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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bump...help please
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Old 09-17-2009, 03:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr2tim View Post
When I get a new Mark 1 car I drill holes in the floor area below the ECU and the beam bottom that attaches to the rear motor mount.

This area does not drain and as the floor rusts away the bolts attaching the rear motor mount will be compromised.

(The idea of a non-moisture holding material under the carpet is a great one.)

did you ever think as to why water is getting in? either your tail lights have a leak (which are not suppose to), the key cylinder is leaking (which has a drain), your seals are shot, or the seal on the wiring is shot.....

either way, best bet is to keep the water out by not letting it in in the first place..... again, my wifes car is bone dry down there... the molex connector looks great (and I just had to rewire something on it a couple days ago, so I do know, yes), the padding is in great shape, etc. I've even pulled the tail lights on this car and they aren't leaking.
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Old 09-17-2009, 03:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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While we are on the topic of trunks, what do you do when the trunk is locked shut? The cable isnt releasing from inside the car and the key doesnt work. My tools are stuck inside and I'm kinda worried.

I just welded up a few holes in my trunk. I have water in my spoiler I think. It's cracked along the front but I'm not sure if thats how the water got in. It's all good now except for the fact that I cant get into my trunk.
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Old 09-17-2009, 06:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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friend of mine pulled the license plate and took a 3" hole saw...... other than that... if your cable isn't releasing it may have slipped off on the pull end in the cab....

if you don't think that's it, you might get lucky cutting it (the cable runs through the engine bay) then using some needle nose pliers to pull the cable itself...

my guess is the cable slipped off in the cab.... tends to happen a lot....
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Old 09-17-2009, 08:12 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I can here it trying to release in the trunk. I do have a rust hole that I didn't patch that I might be able to reach through. If not, I guess I'll be cutting a hole.
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Old 02-13-2010, 03:57 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Update:

After some very heavy rains here in Los Angeles the last few weeks, I decided to check under the frunk and trunk padding again. Yep, moisture. So my seals are all bad for sure. During the rain storms I had water leaking into the cabin from both windows and the sunroof too. Yay, something else to blow money on.

On the positive side, my repairs and coating of the trunk interiors are holding up fine and repelling water. The tiny pinholes that went through the rear trunk floor to the muffler heat shield underneath are still perfectly covered in sealant top and bottom. No problems with heat affecting the repair on the bottom either.
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