i have no idea what wrong?

rydennsd · 09-04-2009, 06:51 PM

any idea?

re dtop 16v new wp head, gaskets, tbelt..... stock block 45k on it.

installed ran fine..... all of a sudden over pressurizing the coolant system foamy, thought it was or maybe is a blown head gasket..... did a block test came up neg.???? foamy coolant people are saying could be a water pump?

ok what u have to understand is i have replaced everything on this car accept for the rack brakes and bushings and the block..... one more thing im tempted to push this car off a cliff and call it a made on fri car....

anyone have any help for me?

thanks chris san diego,ca

David · 09-04-2009, 07:31 PM

Propper punctuation, spelling, and grammar would help us all understand what you are asking better.

My best bet is that somewhere, there is a bad gasket. Maybe someone over-tightened and snapped one?

MR-3sgte · 09-05-2009, 05:05 PM

If your coolant over pressurized you could have a stuck thermostat that is closed try changing that.

toyotaspeed90 · 09-06-2009, 02:07 PM

or the coolant wasn't bled correctly and there was an airpocket.....

goldluderay · 09-06-2009, 09:55 PM

my geuss is the coolant wasnt blead right

just start the car up
turn the heat all the way up on the recurit setting
let it get to opperating temp(fan goes on)

then crack the collant bleeder
you should see air bubbels and collant come out then shut the bleed
re-peat 4-5 times intell there are no more air bubbles

shut the car off and let it cool and add collant as needed

dirocyn · 09-08-2009, 02:31 PM

If compression is ok, probably a bubble in cooling system. To clarify the previous post--there are 2 air bleed valves in the frunk, one's on the top of the radiator, and one's on the heater control, behind the spare tire and interior panel in the frunk. The car came with 2 clear hoses that fit these air bleed valves. You put the hose on, elevate it above the level of the radiator cap, and open the valve until fluid comes up in the hose. Should be about 3 turns. The BGB says open these 2 valves and add fluid to the rad cap until it's full, then put the rad cap on halfway, run until warm, and repeat until there are no bubbles.

My recent experience--there's another bleed valve sitting above the transmission, that's where most of the air comes out. It should have a hose going to the overflow tank, if you're lucky that hose will still be clear enough to see the fluid level when you open the valve. Your best bet is open all 3 valves, fill rad cap, start the engine, and run it--heater on--and add water at the rad cap until there are no more bubbles. Then seal it all up.

09-04-2009, 06:51 PM	#1 (permalink)
rydennsd gets better and better Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: san diego Posts: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	i have no idea what wrong? any idea? re dtop 16v new wp head, gaskets, tbelt..... stock block 45k on it. installed ran fine..... all of a sudden over pressurizing the coolant system foamy, thought it was or maybe is a blown head gasket..... did a block test came up neg.???? foamy coolant people are saying could be a water pump? ok what u have to understand is i have replaced everything on this car accept for the rack brakes and bushings and the block..... one more thing im tempted to push this car off a cliff and call it a made on fri car.... anyone have any help for me? thanks chris san diego,ca

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09-04-2009, 07:31 PM	#2 (permalink)
David Take a picture trick! Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Tampa, Fl. Posts: 1,301 Thanks: 111 Thanked 25 Times in 25 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	Propper punctuation, spelling, and grammar would help us all understand what you are asking better. My best bet is that somewhere, there is a bad gasket. Maybe someone over-tightened and snapped one?

09-05-2009, 05:05 PM	#3 (permalink)
MR-3sgte Cage Fighter Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 130 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	If your coolant over pressurized you could have a stuck thermostat that is closed try changing that.

09-06-2009, 02:07 PM	#4 (permalink)
toyotaspeed90 No Skills Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 433 Thanks: 0 Thanked 32 Times in 32 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	or the coolant wasn't bled correctly and there was an airpocket.....

09-06-2009, 09:55 PM	#5 (permalink)
goldluderay No Skills Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 38 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	my geuss is the coolant wasnt blead right just start the car up turn the heat all the way up on the recurit setting let it get to opperating temp(fan goes on) then crack the collant bleeder you should see air bubbels and collant come out then shut the bleed re-peat 4-5 times intell there are no more air bubbles shut the car off and let it cool and add collant as needed

09-08-2009, 02:31 PM	#6 (permalink)
dirocyn Cage Fighter Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 133 Thanks: 6 Thanked 12 Times in 12 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	If compression is ok, probably a bubble in cooling system. To clarify the previous post--there are 2 air bleed valves in the frunk, one's on the top of the radiator, and one's on the heater control, behind the spare tire and interior panel in the frunk. The car came with 2 clear hoses that fit these air bleed valves. You put the hose on, elevate it above the level of the radiator cap, and open the valve until fluid comes up in the hose. Should be about 3 turns. The BGB says open these 2 valves and add fluid to the rad cap until it's full, then put the rad cap on halfway, run until warm, and repeat until there are no bubbles. My recent experience--there's another bleed valve sitting above the transmission, that's where most of the air comes out. It should have a hose going to the overflow tank, if you're lucky that hose will still be clear enough to see the fluid level when you open the valve. Your best bet is open all 3 valves, fill rad cap, start the engine, and run it--heater on--and add water at the rad cap until there are no more bubbles. Then seal it all up.