GZE Head

[M-r2d2]

Well I pulled the head off my car cus it had water in the oil so I was thinking that I had a blown headgasket. I looked the headgasket over and it looks good(thats a bad thing) so now I think I have a craked or warped head. I have a head from an 85 NA will that work. The engine is a JDM S/C 4agze w/ DLI
I think its the small port any1 know what head I can use and or where to get a good one??

thanks
jason

[donnyavery]

the heads are interchangeable but the manifolds are not im using a large port na head on a large port sc motor with rwd manifold and a turbo so what im saying is it all interchangeable (but the 20v) you just have to know what you got

[M-r2d2]

well I know the gze head is a small port and the NA head is a large port. But the NA head was "decked" so will the compression be higher?? I just hope the gze isn't cracked

[donnyavery]

ya the compression will be higher(not enough to make a diff on a stock boost or even up to like 12psi) but Toyota say 2thou is all you can take off so if its decked more than that it going to dial like crap because it changes cam timing (ive been through this i have 4 junk heads laying on my garage floor on looking for a good one for my 4agte build)

[skruyd]

Originally Posted by donnyavery

.....going to dial like crap because it changes cam timing .....

Couldn't you get an adjustable cam to fix that problem? Worked with a guy that dirt track chevetes. He shaved the head and block to raise the compression. Then set the left cam in a tooth and the right cam out a tooth. The track later caught on because they found out the timing belt was missing two teeth.

[M-r2d2]

well i do want it built right. I will be putting a pulley or going turbo down the line. I have way to much in it to let it go or to do nothing(plus its so bad ass when its running) I will have to find one if this one is bad But all in all this is rally go experience for me and now I know how much space you will have if you go turbo. not to mention the wight loss. but that's just a twinkle in my eye at this point.

::sighs::
jason

[Jackstand Queen]

When you pull the head off a high mileage engine . . . . its a real can of worms.

Like Donavery said, shaving the head means you have to buy adjustable cams. Which I have done. Since my head was shaved to hell and back by my local hillbilly machine shop . . . whether the adjustable cam gears will fix it or not . . . is a good question.

An old head will need valve seals. To get at those you will need a valve retainer installer/remover.

If your valve guides are worn out (which they will be), you'll have to get a machine shop to punch the old one's out, and new ones in. That'll cost somewhere between one and two hundred dollars.

Your valve seating will be changed by the new valve guides. You'll need seats cut, and the valves lapped in. The valves need to seal pretty much watertight.

Since you've cut a new valve seat, you'll need a serious valve adjustment. Meaning probably a whole new set of shims of the thinner variety. The shims run somewhere between 6 and 8 dollars a piece. Also, there's a special tool available for valve adjusting. Though some mechanics get by without this tool.

There are a few other "ought to's" like buying all new valve stem retainer pieces, which my local parts store charges 9 dollars a piece for. And there are 32 of those puppies in the head. I lost a couple and found out how much they cost the hard way.

Heads wear out. And reconditioning them to very good condition is a lot of work . . .. . is all I'm saying.

[M-r2d2]

well the engine I have is JDM should only have around 60K miles. I was going to leave all that alone if i can. and just have it checked for cracks. if its cracked then I will have to get a head and do all that.
thanks for the info
jason