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| MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
Posts: 2,408
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iTrader Rating: (7/100% ) |
Fusible link problem?
I got my cap and rotor from Aaron today and installed them and then when I put my key in the ignition to turn it on it I think I saw smoke and nothing worked. My radio doesnt work, my horn, windows, locks nothing but the radiator fans and the engine bay fan. The fans turn on as soon as the key is on the on position. The headlights work regardless of the position of the key. Does this sound like a fusible link problem? I'm at a loss. It was working fine a few days then now it doesnt work.
HELP. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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A fuse problem perhaps. But definitely not the Fusible Link. If the F.L. burnt out, you'd have zero power everywhere.
When fuses burn out, its because something is seriously wrong with the wiring or devices to cause the fuse to go out. So a burnt out fuse is cause to go seriously hunting for the reason it burnt out. From what you outlined in your post . . . . I would check the main EFI relay, and the other relays in the No. 2 fuse box inside the engine bay, high up on the driver's side. One theme I see over and over again with these old cars is crusty, bad, grounds. Check all of them, and then some. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Jackstand Queen For This Useful Post: | mr3 (09-13-2009) |
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#3 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
Posts: 2,408
Thanks: 24
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iTrader Rating: (7/100% ) |
Ok, I have a really good engine ground for sure. I'll check else where today if I get a chance.
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#4 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
Posts: 2,408
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Am1 fuse was blown. 50amp red one in the bay. I don't want to take it out of my daily car incase I blow it again then I'll be out 2 cars. Is there anything common that would blow this fuse? I did a quick google search and I saw $9 a pop for these things. I don't want to have to keep buying new ones an I'm hoping for a simple fix (yeah right).
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#5 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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The number 50 is rather large.
So the largest amp drawing device in the car is the starter. A loose starter solenoid wire grounding could blow the big fuse. A worn spot on a large battery cable somewhere in the car could do it. Have you done a battery to frunk re-locate (yet)? You might end up having to do a wiring trace from the No. 2 box. A ground wire (or multple grounds) goes to that box. But you might have to do continuity tests starting from that fuse checking for a ground where there shouldn't be one. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
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I havent moved the battery to the front yet. I deffinatly do plan on doing it but my dad is on HVAC work at his job so I have to wait till he goes back to being the electrician to grab me some wire. Could be another 2 months so I'm going to leave it in the engine bay for the time being. Thanks for the help.
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#7 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
Posts: 2,408
Thanks: 24
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iTrader Rating: (7/100% ) |
Got it fixed I guess. I just went through my push button starter and horn button and moved the wires around. They all looked perfect but I kept blowing the fuse. Me and my dad traced the wires and moved them around to check to see if they were split and grounding out anywhere. It wasnt but we went through it and then put a new fuse in and it works. Hopefully it holds out. Then a new problem came up and I'm stumped. The spark plugs have a really weak spark. New plugs are expensive so I'm hoping theres a way around this. I'm feeling so broke.
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#9 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
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I just posted up a new thread. The coil/igniter has an excelent ground. I'm getting spark to the cap and we are getting spark from the cap. We took a regular wire and just put it to the engine and we have spark coming from there. Now we are battling with either too much fuel or not enough spark. This makes more sence in my head than what I'm typing out. Sorry, bear with me long day of frustrating problems.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: west chester PA
Posts: 528
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could the weak sparking plugs have weak contacts on the distributer?
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#11 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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Measure the resistance of your spark plug wires. They should be in the 1 to 2 thousand ohm range.
Using copper core, solid wire spark plug wires is not permitted on high energy ignition systems. Basically we use a fiberglass core material dirtied with carbon, to cause a plasma to conduct the needed electricity. The color of the spark you're producing when you check the spark is important. Yellow, not so good. Orange, red bad. Blue/white the shiznitz! |
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#12 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
Posts: 2,408
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iTrader Rating: (7/100% ) |
I'll test the wires again. I forget the numbers now. The color was yellow I think. I'm 90% sure the wires checked out fine though. The spark plugs are brand new ngk platinum plugs reccomended for the engine. Anyone know how many ohms the plug should be?
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#13 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
Posts: 2,408
Thanks: 24
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iTrader Rating: (7/100% ) |
Plug 1- 8.48k ohms
plug 2- 6.84k ohms Plug 3- 11.92k ohms Plug 4- 9.52k ohms coil to cap- 7.52k ohms That was with my fluke in that setting. Before I checked that way I got 1 1.963 ohms 2 1.818 3 2.078 4 1.928 coil to cap 1.859 I'm not exactly sure but they all seem to be within spec. I went to the car in the morning(now), put the key in and it started up but stalled right out. Went to restart and it wont restart. My dad is an old chevy guy and he is saying coil. The coil is from a 5sfe and I checked and got this. Primary .5 should be .40-.50 should be good. secondary 12.49k should be 10-14 thats ok. Why am I not getting the spark I need? Or might I be getting the spark but too much fuel? Thanks |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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What color were the old plugs that had been run? They will tell you if your fuel mix was too rich, or lean.
I have a spare ignitor for an 85 to 87 N.A. Ignitors can't be tested extemely well. PM if you might need it. I use an Accel brand coil. They are a little bit hotter than the oem. And actually do add a couple of HP. BTW, if you hook up a coil with the wires crossed, it will burn out the ignitor in exactly 26.53 seconds. Don't ask me how I know this. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
Posts: 2,408
Thanks: 24
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iTrader Rating: (7/100% ) |
It's for my 20v swap. With that engine you need to run the 5sfe one or one with the same number.
The old plugs were black and super wet. (Perverted I know). Maybe it is getting too much fuel? I have to change out the oil again but that wont happen till tomorrow or thursday depending on when my $$ comes. Could it be that the fuel went bad? The car started up and ran 2 months ago with the 4age red top. Maybe it went bad? I has about a third of a tank so it shouldnt be all that much to get out. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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From your plugs condition we can deduce that your fuel mixture is too rich, or your spark was so weak it wasn't burning all the fuel in the chamber.
The yellow spark, you mentioned makes me think you have a weak spark problem. Modern gasoline stores well for 6 months in a gas tank. It'll burn O.K. even after a year. I keep forgetting this is a 20v you're working with. Do you have the 20v ECU, ignitor, coil pack, etc.? The 20v has variable valve timing which needs a 20v ECU to work properly. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
Posts: 2,408
Thanks: 24
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iTrader Rating: (7/100% ) |
Yes I'm running everything 20v. Today I was working and I found in the trunk harness that the black wire from the ecu to the body plug was cut and not hooked up. Top left looking at the body plug. I hooked it up and hopefully tomorrow I can get some new gas and fresh oil and filter and start her up. I'm not sure if that one wire will help or not.
The last time this car was on the road was about 5/04 so I'm pretty sure the gas was old. It deffinatly didnt smell good so hopefully that will also help with starting. I should be getting my axle back so if it starts, I'll be able to do a test drive. It's allmost there and the only thing I can keep saying is "we'll see" I dont know for sure if it will start or not. So, we'll see. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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If your gas is from May 2004, you need to pump it out. Hotwire the fuel pump and rig a hose to or from your fuel rail. If you have just a couple gallons in, fill up the tank with premium and some additive with toluene, or acetone in it . . . before even starting the engine.
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#19 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
Posts: 2,408
Thanks: 24
Thanked 98 Times in 93 Posts
iTrader Rating: (7/100% ) |
Hahahaha it started. Low on fuel and it started fine. I'm not sure what it was. I did 3 things at once. Eptied out the gas, connected the wire in the trunk, and put the starter relay in from my 87. The way I had it wired I didnt think I needed the starter relay because I dont go through there. I have a push button starter wired up because of the faulty ignition. Or maybe it was because I didnt have all the gas in the tank to pump into the engine. For all I know, it was that little black wire in the trunk. Hopefully I'll get some money for some stuff tomorrow and I'll be able to get my oil changed out, get some gas, and get my axle back so I can run it. I'm so relieved even though my back is sore. Good day today. I'm happy tonight.
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#20 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: west chester PA
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what oil filter are you using?! its getting closer to that time every day
!!! |
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