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| MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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This can't be happening...
In my other thread, I explained how my clutch cylinder leaked and I went to an auto body shop and got it replaced. But the clutch became extremely loose and I needed to push all the way down to the mat to shift.
NOW, my clutch is even looser and I can't even shift into 1st or 2nd gear. I can turn on the car but that's it. What am I supposed to do now to fix this problem? Read the other thread first and any advice would be helpful. thanks |
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#2 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
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Try this for a temperary solution. Make sure you have fluid in your resivior. Open the frunk(front trunk) and look in the right cup against the firewall. If it's low (I'll put money that it is) fill it up with brake fluid. Then sit in your car and pump the clutch. You should be able to build up pressure. Enough pressure to drive it to the shop to get it fixed. Best bet now is to put the order in for a new slave cylender.
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#4 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
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You are getting air in some how. Is the bleeder screw tight?
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#5 (permalink) |
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Many skills...
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Billings, MT
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Is this the slave cylinder or master cyl. you had replaced? Sounds like your system has not been bled completely. I recently did my clutch/tranny/etc.. and had to spend about 20 minutes bleeding until all the air was removed. Many shops will skimp on the process...
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#6 (permalink) |
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How did this get changed?
Join Date: Sep 2009
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if your master has full fluid, i would say its a bleeder... meaning you need to bleed the line. Might be worn out slave letting in air, that wont make a puddle, it will just reduce pressure making it unable to shift. you can get a new slave for $25-35 or more, and should be easy to replace, im a total newb and i figured it out. but the bleeding the line part is harder than putting in a new slave, and its a two man job, so find a friend. Try bleeding the line first, if it builds pressure but then looses it, its gotta be your slave, or the line's themselves, but you say no puddles, so it seems like its just air to me.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: west chester PA
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are the st c56 slave cyls the same? i have one
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#8 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Jun 2006
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yeah, they're the same...
they are also only about $30 new to buy....do NOT rebuild slave cylinders, it's 100% pointless. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to toyotaspeed90 For This Useful Post: | Jackstand Queen (09-21-2009) |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Mar 2009
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I rebuilt a slave cylinder for an MG Midget that had been sitting for 18 years. I saved about $50 by doing the rebuild myself, it took a couple hours (mostly just to get it cleaned out) and I thought that was worth my time.
I definitely wouldn't do a rebuild on a slave cylinder I could buy new for $30. You'd have to spend $5 or $10 for the rebuild kit, then spend a couple hours working on it, and what you get in return is a chance to save $20 or $25 if you do it right, if your old slave isn't too badly pitted or scored to seal up right, and if it doesn't leak when you're done. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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SUPERcharZed ToyZ RacZer
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: South Florida
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Looks like your getting some good advice.
But what were you thinking...??.... getting some body panel/painting workers to do mechanical work? (we just know there's a real story here? We hope?) |
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#11 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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I think i used the wrong words, I took my car to a mechanic which was Mazz Autosport located in SoCal and I'm probably going to try to replace the slave since the car has been having trouble shifting. The pressure is back in the clutch but the stick is having some hard time going into gear.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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No Skills
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Quote:
Considering a huge amount of Toyota slaves are the same, the cost is kept down on them. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
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Quote:
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