Oil pressure question.

jsnod25 · 09-23-2009, 07:29 PM

Ok, so I've had an issue with my engine RPM's dropping to 500. So today while it happened I noticed that the oil pressure dropped alot, like below the halfway mark. And I'm sure that the pressure must have somethng to do with it. Once I reved the engine the pressure climbed but then would drop down again. So I turned on the A/C to raise the RPM's to about 900. This fixed it and kept the RPM's and oil pressure up. But my question is why is this pressure dropping. Do I need to add oil? It's within the limits, not full but not empty, about in the middle. It's also needing to get changed which I meant to do today, but didn't have time. Can I change it maybe fix it? Or is my oil pump thing maybe going out? Also I only owned the car for a week so I'm still working out the qwerks. When I got it it couldn't be driven, now I just need to get this idle/oil pressure issue fixed.

mr3 · 09-23-2009, 07:34 PM

Normal. My engine is set to idle at 600rpms and the oil pressure is at about 1/4 on the gauge. Nothing to worry about.

goldluderay · 09-23-2009, 07:44 PM

my oil psi also is not much over a 1/4 of the way on the guage

jsnod25 · 09-23-2009, 08:25 PM

Weird, so is it bad that my oil pressure rises to about 3/4? And usually hangs out there when running the smoothest. When it drops to 500 RPMs and about 1/4 oil pressure on the gauge, is when it's running the worst.

mr3 · 09-23-2009, 09:08 PM

It's fine. These gauges aren't all that accurate. I bet your battery meter moves when you use the turn signals too. Not something to worry about.

jsnod25 · 09-23-2009, 09:43 PM

Yes it does move, but the engine dying and The oil pressure dropping at the same time says something to me too though.

mr3 · 09-23-2009, 10:11 PM

They all do it. I'm sure someone else will chime in and say it. There was a post a while back and someone thought low oil pressure was the cause of his car stalling. Your idle is too low have you bleed the coolant yet? The idle should be set around 800 rpms. If you bleed it out and the idle is steady and there are no vacuum leaks then bump up the idle. The low oil pressure is not going to make your car stall. The fact that the engine is running slow the oil isn't being circulated as much hence the low pressure. I hope i'm making sense.

espguitarist33 · 09-23-2009, 10:15 PM

i wish i knew what my oil gauge said when i spun the bearing...that way if it ever hits that mark...the car turns off IMEDIATLY...not oh i'll ease it home

mr2tim · 09-24-2009, 12:19 AM

Ditto with the pressure..

The idle can be adjusted in several ways.

There's a Allen socketed threaded shaft with a lock-nut on it in your throttle assembly, loosen the lock nut and turn the Allen to the RPM desired. (Use pentrating oil 1st?)

With the AC on there's a thumb screw adjuster on the rear inner fender in front of the battery (AC Idle up assembly) this works only when the AC is engaged.

You may have to address any slack in your throttle cable with the cable termination adjuster as well at this point

(Personally) I dabble with the TPS on occasion but only as a last resolve.)

As noted, air in the coolant will do very very strange things to this car...weird....

espguitarist33 · 09-24-2009, 12:36 AM

my idle used to be so high it would cut the fuel for a second and bounce...the car would almost stall...i had to make sure i let off the clutch in the top range. There was a cap with a screw under it that I had to adjust on the throttle body philips head
(didnt see it on mr2tims post)

jsnod25 · 09-24-2009, 07:07 AM

omg, none of that made any sense LOL... ill burp the coolant and report any changes... and im going to change the oil and spark plugs too... can somone point me to good directions on how to burp? i know there has to be a thread here somewhere, or im a complete moron. I work best with pictures, im very kinetic. show me and im good for life, tell me and im confused. Kinda like, give a man a fish and feed him for a day, teach a man to fish and feed him for life.

**EDIT**

I also found while messing with my idle, that the cable is freying... so im going to have to replace that before it snaps, unless somone has a great way of repairing that...

esreveRBackwards · 09-24-2009, 07:01 PM

When my 2 is warmed up and at idle, the oil pressure gage goes almost all the way to the lowest point. Sits just above the lowest mark. Always thought that was normal...

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsnod25

Ok, so I've had an issue with my engine RPM's dropping to 500. So today while it happened I noticed that the oil pressure dropped alot, like below the halfway mark. And I'm sure that the pressure must have somethng to do with it. Once I reved the engine the pressure climbed but then would drop down again. So I turned on the A/C to raise the RPM's to about 900. This fixed it and kept the RPM's and oil pressure up. But my question is why is this pressure dropping. Do I need to add oil? It's within the limits, not full but not empty, about in the middle. It's also needing to get changed which I meant to do today, but didn't have time. Can I change it maybe fix it? Or is my oil pump thing maybe going out? Also I only owned the car for a week so I'm still working out the qwerks. When I got it it couldn't be driven, now I just need to get this idle/oil pressure issue fixed.

mr2_jake · 09-24-2009, 09:29 PM

Oil pump is driven off the crank. Oil pressure depends on how fast the motor is turning. Higher RPM = higher oil press., low RPM = low oil press. Completely normal.

Maticuno · 09-24-2009, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr2_jake

Oil pump is driven off the crank. Oil pressure depends on how fast the motor is turning. Higher RPM = higher oil press., low RPM = low oil press. Completely normal.

+1

Low RPM causes low oil pressure, not the other way around. There are a few things that could be causing your idle problem: like a poorly adjusted idle screw, vacuum leaks, or an out of spec throttle position sensor. If you search the forum I'm pretty sure there is a thread on all of these topics.

jsnod25 · 09-25-2009, 08:18 AM

i think i fixed it, in the thread titled "Strange Behavior" i got alot of help there too, but i was asking about my thermostat and not oil pressure. All i did was burp the cooling system, seems to be operating correctly, and yes the oil pressure makes sense, its normal. Thermostat still not reading or sending the right temp, but the idle and acceleration seems to be fixed now.

toyotaspeed90 · 09-25-2009, 11:37 AM

oil pressure only needs to be around 5psi at idle. At running speed, the minimum is around 36psi, IIRC.

It's quite normal for toyota's to have low oil pressure at idle. This has nothing to do with a bouncy idle, a bad oil pump, etc. The oil pumps are driven off of the crank directly, so when the crank is spinning at a lower rpm, then the oil output will be lower.

Idle should be set to around 900rpm or so if you have emissions in your area. We don't, so I set it to around 1100rpm.

A bouncy idle can occur when you have your idle set too high because --- the idle set screw in the throttle body acts as a bypass... it allows more air to go between the front and back of the throttle body without the flapper being open. The downside of this is that the TPS sensor will be in "idle" mode if the flapper isn't open at all. Toyota ecu's use a 4 wire TPS (3 wire is standard) on their 'pot' stype TPS sensors... the 4th wire is for an idle mode. IF the idle is too high and the TPS is reading "idle" then the computer gets confused.

Also, a bouncy idle can be caused by air in the coolant, timing being off, vacuum leaks, bad TPS.... and the list goes on.

lsgheero · 09-25-2009, 11:38 AM

Does anyone know how to fix the turn signal thing lol, I know its not a huge deal but that bugs the crap out of me lol.

Jsnod25: If your really concerned about it just install some aftermarket gauges. I recommend getting copper tubing instead of the nylon crap they give you. That way you can know exactly what your volts/water temp/oil pressure is. A decent set of these (you get all three) can be had for 60 or less. I usually use 1 1/2 gauges instead of 2 inch ones. They are cheaper and I can usually fit them into places easier. I recently installed some of these in my 2. I relocated my ac controls todo so. see pic below.

toyotaspeed90 · 09-25-2009, 11:49 AM

use an electric gauge..... I would never consider running an oil line that far.

mr2_jake · 09-25-2009, 12:29 PM

Electric gauges are nice.. but more expensive themselves, as are the sensors/sending units for them. Mechanical gauges are much cheaper, (and in my opinion, much easier to install!!!).

lsgheero · 09-25-2009, 01:12 PM

this is true but I can understand where toyotaspeed90 is coming from most peeps don't like the idea of oil entering the cab to begin with lol. and its possible that the manual gauges are no more accurate then a electric but I just feel better knowing that the needle moves based on the actual oil pressure. I also install one into the engine bay as well so I can look for differences between the distances (just in case the distance is causing a misread, however it shouldn't).

I also use copper tubing which I encase in a vacuum line so it isnt exposed.

09-23-2009, 07:29 PM	#1 (permalink)
jsnod25 How did this get changed? Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Va beach, va Posts: 133 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Oil pressure question. Ok, so I've had an issue with my engine RPM's dropping to 500. So today while it happened I noticed that the oil pressure dropped alot, like below the halfway mark. And I'm sure that the pressure must have somethng to do with it. Once I reved the engine the pressure climbed but then would drop down again. So I turned on the A/C to raise the RPM's to about 900. This fixed it and kept the RPM's and oil pressure up. But my question is why is this pressure dropping. Do I need to add oil? It's within the limits, not full but not empty, about in the middle. It's also needing to get changed which I meant to do today, but didn't have time. Can I change it maybe fix it? Or is my oil pump thing maybe going out? Also I only owned the car for a week so I'm still working out the qwerks. When I got it it couldn't be driven, now I just need to get this idle/oil pressure issue fixed. Last edited by jsnod25; 09-23-2009 at 08:31 PM.. Reason: Spelling errors, I'm on my iPhone

09-24-2009, 07:07 AM	#11 (permalink)
jsnod25 How did this get changed? Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Va beach, va Posts: 133 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	omg, none of that made any sense LOL... ill burp the coolant and report any changes... and im going to change the oil and spark plugs too... can somone point me to good directions on how to burp? i know there has to be a thread here somewhere, or im a complete moron. I work best with pictures, im very kinetic. show me and im good for life, tell me and im confused. Kinda like, give a man a fish and feed him for a day, teach a man to fish and feed him for life. EDIT I also found while messing with my idle, that the cable is freying... so im going to have to replace that before it snaps, unless somone has a great way of repairing that... Last edited by jsnod25; 09-24-2009 at 07:11 AM.. Reason: more info

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09-23-2009, 07:34 PM	#2 (permalink)
mr3 unskilled Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa Posts: 2,408 Thanks: 24 Thanked 98 Times in 93 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	Normal. My engine is set to idle at 600rpms and the oil pressure is at about 1/4 on the gauge. Nothing to worry about.

09-23-2009, 07:44 PM	#3 (permalink)
goldluderay Some Skills Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 63 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	my oil psi also is not much over a 1/4 of the way on the guage

09-23-2009, 08:25 PM	#4 (permalink)
jsnod25 How did this get changed? Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Va beach, va Posts: 133 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Weird, so is it bad that my oil pressure rises to about 3/4? And usually hangs out there when running the smoothest. When it drops to 500 RPMs and about 1/4 oil pressure on the gauge, is when it's running the worst.

09-23-2009, 09:08 PM	#5 (permalink)
mr3 unskilled Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa Posts: 2,408 Thanks: 24 Thanked 98 Times in 93 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	It's fine. These gauges aren't all that accurate. I bet your battery meter moves when you use the turn signals too. Not something to worry about.

09-23-2009, 09:43 PM	#6 (permalink)
jsnod25 How did this get changed? Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Va beach, va Posts: 133 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Yes it does move, but the engine dying and The oil pressure dropping at the same time says something to me too though.

09-23-2009, 10:11 PM	#7 (permalink)
mr3 unskilled Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa Posts: 2,408 Thanks: 24 Thanked 98 Times in 93 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	They all do it. I'm sure someone else will chime in and say it. There was a post a while back and someone thought low oil pressure was the cause of his car stalling. Your idle is too low have you bleed the coolant yet? The idle should be set around 800 rpms. If you bleed it out and the idle is steady and there are no vacuum leaks then bump up the idle. The low oil pressure is not going to make your car stall. The fact that the engine is running slow the oil isn't being circulated as much hence the low pressure. I hope i'm making sense.

09-23-2009, 10:15 PM	#8 (permalink)
espguitarist33 Cage Fighter Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: west chester PA Posts: 528 Thanks: 4 Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	i wish i knew what my oil gauge said when i spun the bearing...that way if it ever hits that mark...the car turns off IMEDIATLY...not oh i'll ease it home

09-24-2009, 12:19 AM	#9 (permalink)
mr2tim SUPERcharZed ToyZ RacZer Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: South Florida Posts: 1,789 Thanks: 8 Thanked 118 Times in 111 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (6/100% )	Ditto with the pressure.. The idle can be adjusted in several ways. There's a Allen socketed threaded shaft with a lock-nut on it in your throttle assembly, loosen the lock nut and turn the Allen to the RPM desired. (Use pentrating oil 1st?) With the AC on there's a thumb screw adjuster on the rear inner fender in front of the battery (AC Idle up assembly) this works only when the AC is engaged. You may have to address any slack in your throttle cable with the cable termination adjuster as well at this point (Personally) I dabble with the TPS on occasion but only as a last resolve.) As noted, air in the coolant will do very very strange things to this car...weird....

09-24-2009, 12:36 AM	#10 (permalink)
espguitarist33 Cage Fighter Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: west chester PA Posts: 528 Thanks: 4 Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	my idle used to be so high it would cut the fuel for a second and bounce...the car would almost stall...i had to make sure i let off the clutch in the top range. There was a cap with a screw under it that I had to adjust on the throttle body philips head (didnt see it on mr2tims post)

09-24-2009, 09:29 PM	#13 (permalink)
mr2_jake Many skills... Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Billings, MT Posts: 83 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Oil pump is driven off the crank. Oil pressure depends on how fast the motor is turning. Higher RPM = higher oil press., low RPM = low oil press. Completely normal.

09-25-2009, 08:18 AM	#15 (permalink)
jsnod25 How did this get changed? Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Va beach, va Posts: 133 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	i think i fixed it, in the thread titled "Strange Behavior" i got alot of help there too, but i was asking about my thermostat and not oil pressure. All i did was burp the cooling system, seems to be operating correctly, and yes the oil pressure makes sense, its normal. Thermostat still not reading or sending the right temp, but the idle and acceleration seems to be fixed now.

09-25-2009, 11:37 AM	#16 (permalink)
toyotaspeed90 No Skills Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 2,407 Thanks: 0 Thanked 149 Times in 144 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	oil pressure only needs to be around 5psi at idle. At running speed, the minimum is around 36psi, IIRC. It's quite normal for toyota's to have low oil pressure at idle. This has nothing to do with a bouncy idle, a bad oil pump, etc. The oil pumps are driven off of the crank directly, so when the crank is spinning at a lower rpm, then the oil output will be lower. Idle should be set to around 900rpm or so if you have emissions in your area. We don't, so I set it to around 1100rpm. A bouncy idle can occur when you have your idle set too high because --- the idle set screw in the throttle body acts as a bypass... it allows more air to go between the front and back of the throttle body without the flapper being open. The downside of this is that the TPS sensor will be in "idle" mode if the flapper isn't open at all. Toyota ecu's use a 4 wire TPS (3 wire is standard) on their 'pot' stype TPS sensors... the 4th wire is for an idle mode. IF the idle is too high and the TPS is reading "idle" then the computer gets confused. Also, a bouncy idle can be caused by air in the coolant, timing being off, vacuum leaks, bad TPS.... and the list goes on.

09-25-2009, 11:38 AM	#17 (permalink)
lsgheero RAR! Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Arizona Posts: 747 Thanks: 9 Thanked 31 Times in 31 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Does anyone know how to fix the turn signal thing lol, I know its not a huge deal but that bugs the crap out of me lol. Jsnod25: If your really concerned about it just install some aftermarket gauges. I recommend getting copper tubing instead of the nylon crap they give you. That way you can know exactly what your volts/water temp/oil pressure is. A decent set of these (you get all three) can be had for 60 or less. I usually use 1 1/2 gauges instead of 2 inch ones. They are cheaper and I can usually fit them into places easier. I recently installed some of these in my 2. I relocated my ac controls todo so. see pic below.

09-25-2009, 11:49 AM	#18 (permalink)
toyotaspeed90 No Skills Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 2,407 Thanks: 0 Thanked 149 Times in 144 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	use an electric gauge..... I would never consider running an oil line that far.

09-25-2009, 12:29 PM	#19 (permalink)
mr2_jake Many skills... Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Billings, MT Posts: 83 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Electric gauges are nice.. but more expensive themselves, as are the sensors/sending units for them. Mechanical gauges are much cheaper, (and in my opinion, much easier to install!!!).

09-25-2009, 01:12 PM	#20 (permalink)
lsgheero RAR! Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Arizona Posts: 747 Thanks: 9 Thanked 31 Times in 31 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	this is true but I can understand where toyotaspeed90 is coming from most peeps don't like the idea of oil entering the cab to begin with lol. and its possible that the manual gauges are no more accurate then a electric but I just feel better knowing that the needle moves based on the actual oil pressure. I also install one into the engine bay as well so I can look for differences between the distances (just in case the distance is causing a misread, however it shouldn't). I also use copper tubing which I encase in a vacuum line so it isnt exposed.