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| MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Neenah
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Cold air intake
Hi everyone, I am new to upgrades on mr2s and am looking for a cold air intake for my 86 mr2.
So is there a filter kit that hooks right up? do i get rid of the intake manifold and sensors? Anything i should really know for this? Please let me know Thanks |
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#2 (permalink) |
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three mk1's
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: NC
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Well, it depends on your definition of "cold" air. The 86 car has the filter located in the engine bay so you've got few options for actually getting cold air. Since there isn't a vent on that side you can't pipe it through the side without major modifications (see other threads on custom side vents) but you can use a cone filter and pick up some better airflow, even if you are pulling warm air from the engine bay. You can do a straight shot deal where the cone filter hooks to the air sensor/throttle body deal then on into the intake. That'll get rid of that air box in your bay, but then you need to cover the filter to keep it from getting rained on because it places it under the vent in the engine cover. I've seen lots of folks use plexiglass and other stuff as covers, so do some searching and you'll turn something up.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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#5 (permalink) |
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SUPERcharZed ToyZ RacZer
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Can we talk air scoops yet?
If you'd like to draw air from your trunk I have a 87-89 OEM airfilter assembly that fits in the side of your trunk unseen, you can run a K&N there as well. It is high enuff to never ever suck up water!!
Irrespective of others ideas, sucking hot air from your engine compartment is for losers (of horsepower that is!) Early in my racing career I added scoops to the trunk lid and had 2 ea- 3" dia Ram-Air ducting hoses spliced into the air inlet on this filter assembly.(see pic) |
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#6 (permalink) |
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three mk1's
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: NC
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I'll have to disagree here with mr2tim (respectfully of course) and say that putting a cone filter in my engine bay was a huge improvement in both power and throttle response over the smaller K&N I had in the stock 88 airbox in the trunk. I did no other mods at the time and it was very noticeable. I understand bringing in cold air would be an even further improvement and don't disagree... but just putting in a cone filter will help some... not as much as cold air through a cone filter would though of course. That said I've got a K&N out back for that stock airbox mr2tim has. I'll part with it cheap because I don't need it.
Granted, I do have a custom intake off the driver's side of the car but it is just piped through to the general engine bay, but it isn't piped into the cone filter or anything like that. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jun 2009
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alright thanks everyone, i have some ideas now. im for sure going with a custom filter though
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#8 (permalink) |
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MR2 MKI AW11
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
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Relocate the battery to the frunk and then run a pipe where the battery sits. Hot air leaves the vents on the engine lid, so the further down you go the better. It'll still be subjected to heat from the engine, but not as much as having it sitting next to the throttle body.
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#9 (permalink) |
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How did this get changed?
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Va beach, va
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why not route your A/C air into the intake? that would be some damn cold air LOL... im just throwing out stupid ideas. I dont suggest doing that unless a real Tech says it wont explode by doing so... but seems like if it would work, you would lose your cold air in the cabin, but would have the coldest air you can get, other than a liquid supply that you would have to refil... just run one of the supply pipes into the intake right before the manifold... i dont see a problem, but again, ask a pro.
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#10 (permalink) |
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How did this get changed?
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Va beach, va
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or another idea would be to get a compressor, like your AC, and run freon through a long copper pipe and just loop it around the half mile long intake system, and that way cooling the intake pipes themselves... that would make it cold... like beer coming out of a tap. also a stupid idea, so ask a pro first.
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#11 (permalink) |
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How did this get changed?
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Va beach, va
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the problem with those ideas (that i can see), is that they will be creating alot of condensation (i believe) and therefore prolly not a good idea, unless you can create a way of incorporating those ideas while solving the inevitible moisture issue....
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#12 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
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Plus the ac compressor when engauged will take up the power increase that you will see. I think.
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#13 (permalink) |
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How did this get changed?
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Va beach, va
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yeah, prolly true, i doubt really cold air from the A/C can compensate the windfall in power comsumption.
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#14 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: west chester PA
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well freon R12 is gone u cant buy that anymore. but yea if either split the line before the evaporator...or just replace it with an oraface tube (otherwise the refridgerant is at like 170 degrees) and then coil it around the intake....its winter all the time now...and if you keep it on the outside it wouldnt drip into the intake...make a drain....its a neat idea actually
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#15 (permalink) |
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How did this get changed?
Join Date: Sep 2009
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sweet... my idea might have substance...
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#16 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: west chester PA
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yea...good luck wiht the law and EPA though...you need CLEAN CLEAN joints and cant have a leak or it wont work anyways! and its a cold air intake that the honda ricers COULD NEVER replicate themselves..think about it!
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#17 (permalink) |
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three mk1's
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: NC
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Lol, running the A/C is going to be more of a power drain than it would create I'm pretty sure. The A/C switch might as well be the "no power" or "low power" switch
. Cool thought (pun intended) but I don't think it is practical. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: west chester PA
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lol go get a hybrid electric compressor and just hook your car into the powerlines for the 30k volts it requires to run
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#19 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: May 2009
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what if instead of running the pipe in the intake, you found a way to cool the pipe from the outside? also just try to find a way to get an AC compressor that is small enough to not rob you of much power. get one with just enough power to cool the intake pipe haha. this would be an interesting expiriment. maybe, once i connect my stock intake, ill fill the trunk with ice xD
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#20 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: west chester PA
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thats what i ment traintech...even better yet form the air intake with bars going through it so that the AC pipe can go through the intake without ever actually touching the air in the pipe...condensation is on the outside. either way..a metal intake would go to 32 degrees and stay there with an expansive valve or H-block/valve..even better then an orifice...u could keep the intake at the exact temperature you want..just play with the capliary bulb
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