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| MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE. |
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#41 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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And for those who said they were not sure, tongue weight is the amount of weight you can hang from the hitch. As in if you were to stand directly on the hitch it is only rated to hold 100lbs directly on the receiver. Those numbers are usually way underrated though. I have a pulling truck and my front receiver is rated to hold 400lbs tongue weight and I hang 1200lbs of tractor weights from it when I pull (when I say pull I mean truck and tractor pulls if you were wondering what the hell I meant by pulling it). And the truck bounces quite a bit and have never had a problem.
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#42 (permalink) |
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Road Warrior
Join Date: Jan 2009
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#43 (permalink) |
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Multi MK1 Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
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The one I have reads 3500 lbs tongue weight, I guess I should of said in my previous post that I wouldnt "hang" that much on my car, not "pull". I did know that it was not reading pulling capability.
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#44 (permalink) |
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Road Warrior
Join Date: Jan 2009
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I'd be scared to hang 1500lbs off the back of a 2200lb car- even if it was part of the frame. The front end wouldn't have any traction, and the rear suspension would bottom out
![]() but towing it... why not? |
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#45 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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1986 Toyota MR2 Hidden Hitch Class I Trailer Hitch | Trailer Hitches | Shop Now
Select '86 Toyota MR2 Square tube, etc. Opinions? I'm also looking for a trailer hitch for my '85 MK1 MR2 |
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#46 (permalink) |
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AW11 Noobie
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Rochester, NY
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![]() Thats how my hitch is connected. I dont know what the weight rating is though. :-( |
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#47 (permalink) | |
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SUPERcharZed ToyZ RacZer
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Looks lightweight?
I'd be real careful on how much vertical weight you put on that bumper mounted unit.
That unit doesn't spread the weight much and the center of the bumper reinforcement will likely deflect before your bumper attachments are compromised. If you notice the units shown in earlier posts, they are almost all tied into the main frame tubes. There is not much of any structural ridigity in the rest of the entire rear of our cars. Nice compact design however. Quote:
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#48 (permalink) |
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AW11 Noobie
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Rochester, NY
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The largest amount of weight I would realistically put on it would either be a small tire trailer or a bicycle rack of some sort(if I can find one). I'm not exactly planning to tow a camper behind me, lol.
Thanks for the words of advice though! |
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#49 (permalink) |
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control your hose
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Fox Lake, IL
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heres what i would do.
i would take a piece of angle iron and put it on the crossmember where the engine mount is in the rear. completely replate it. then i would do the same with the rear frame tubes under the trunk. then i would connect the frame tubes under the trunk together, maybe drop it down a bit to accomodate the muffler and enable me to connect it to the reinforced crossmember. this will make a T-shaped brace that will push up on the crossmember as downward force is applied to the tongue hitch. under sudden braking in order to bend the crossmember you would have to push the engine forward and bend the reinforced the crossmember. it definantly will NOT twist, and the stress point will be divided between 4 grade 8 steel bolts 5/8" in diameter on each side. square tubing would make the actual hitch part, and the square tubing would be welded to the T at the piece that goes under the trunk. it would then be boxed with angle irons. all angle irons would be 1/4" and i could probably make this for someone for about $600. i may make a prototype on my black car, which is a bit junky depends on how bored i get.i would need a picture to try to go around the exhaust configuration. exhaust modification might be needed. |
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#50 (permalink) |
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AW11 Noobie
Join Date: Jun 2006
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^^^^that sounds way complicated.
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#51 (permalink) |
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control your hose
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Fox Lake, IL
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not too bad. if i had "paint" for microsoft, id draw it out, but i dont have that application.
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#52 (permalink) |
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AW11 Noobie
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Ehh, a lot sounds complicated to me thought... Im lazy as all get out.
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#53 (permalink) |
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control your hose
Join Date: Feb 2009
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i know what im talkin about, and it would be sturdy, but would reduce ground clearance.
it would be ideal for highways and stuff, as long as its a smooth road. |
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#54 (permalink) | |
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No Skills
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Well I bought the one in the link I left here. It looks NOTHING like the picture (hate it when they do that) and very similar to this one:
Quote:
I've jumped on it, hooked the trailer to it and jumped on the trailer - I think we're good to go. ![]() Any way, I was impressed with the MR2's bumper. It had two nuts welded in the back of the bumper so you could mount a hitch without too much modifications. Glad they thought that through, a little better than my Datsun 280ZX's trailer set up. I'll post pictures if people want. |
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#55 (permalink) | |
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No Skills
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Quote:
How much are you planning on towing?! The bumper bolts directly into the "frame" so if anything, I would just suggest strengthening that. P.S. You don't have Microsoft paint? I'd rather CAD a job like that... Just my 2 cents. |
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#56 (permalink) | |
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control your hose
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Fox Lake, IL
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Quote:
and i will not infect my macbook with a windows operating system. i dont mean get a virus with windows, to this computer windows IS a virus.i would strengthen that "frame in the rear too, but im more concerned about the crossmember beacuse it will almost have a lever effect on the crossmember and just plain pull down on the "frame". the part that bolted to that "frame" would be channeled with 1/4" plate steel. id rather overdo it than under do it. if i can make it strong enough to pull something the suspension and powertrain will never handle, i consider it mission accomplished. i would rather CAD it too, but i like to have a picture to work off of. i refuse to build the underside of an mr2 in cad. i dont have the patience. |
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