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MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE.

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Old 09-26-2009, 09:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Keeping The MR2

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I have made a decision to keep my MR2. I was originally going to use it as a jumper car to get something better but decided to hold on to it thanks to my cousin and thanks to 87Edwin. So I really seriously wanna start jumping on getting the car completely fixed, I have money now and want to get it shiny and brand new. I have attached some new pictures of the car the old thread has pictures in it as well.
So here we go:

Intake Picture


I need to purchase a new filter, I don't know which one to get I'd like to get a K&N one but I do not know what size to get also I would like to get a plexiglass plate to prevent water from getting into the plate as shown here:



Anyone know if someone makes this or someone who can make this for me? Size of intake cone I need to purchase?

Driver's side Sideskirt:


I want to get this replaced.


Panel thingy...


It was off so one day I decided to unscrew it and see why it wasn't full on and the screw holes broke apart on me! So I either need a new one or something.

Mirror Cover Panels:





Mirror cover plates I need'em.

Rust Pics:
1

2

3

4


5

6

7


Rust I want to fix it, anyone know a good place to get it fixed or know someone who can fix it? I was reccomended some of these panels here : Twos R Us - Parts for Toyotas from Club MR2
but which ones do I get?

Does anyone know what these buttons do, when I press them nothing happens no lights or anything?



I also need new front rotors, anyone has any pm me please!

Any help is much appreciated any links and parts would be helpful as well. Edwin has helped me on numerous occasions in getting my car up and running and fixing any issues that I have had. I can do the small stuff, but definetly need help on the more harder things.
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Old 09-30-2009, 10:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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First things first, check and see how much more rust is in the structural area in the rear wheel wells. With the amount of rust visible, it's possible your wheel wells are getting ready to fall through. If there's too much rust in that area, you may not want to spend a lot of money on this car--the only way to repair it is to weld in new metal, which usually means you have to have the engine out. That gets expensive fast. The visible rust around the wheel wells will have to be ground off and repair with fiberglass and body putty. Any decent body shop should be able to handle that. The rust on your front air dam looks like something you can sand off and repaint pretty easily. That panel comes off with about a half-dozen screws, it'll be easier to paint if you don't have to worry about getting spray onto the rest of your bodywork.

K&N filters all specify the intake diameter. Just pull off the one on your car, measure where it attaches. That plexiglass panel looks custom, that's probably something you'll have to fabricate yourself. Or find a stock air filter box and go back to using stock filters.

What you call the "panel thingy" is called c-pillar trim, it's usually the first thing that gets snapped up when somebody parts out a car. Aftermarket pieces are available here: 'C' Pillar Trim

One of those buttons appears to be labeled "Alarm" so that would be my guess. They don't look like the other switches in an AW11; I've bought switches like those at Autozone. My guess is at one point there was an aftermarket or homemade alarm installed, it may even still be there. No idea how to make it work.
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
How did this get changed?
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for your engine, i recomend taking off parts, one at a time, taking a dremel tool and cleaning them off, clean out the insides with alcahol and then take an engine paint with high temp threashold and seal off any vaccum hose input and outputs with tape, same with any electrical components and just spray it down with any color you want. Dont forget to whipe down the parts after you dremel them with a rag and alcahol to get all the little pieces. You should use somthing extrememly flamable and .1% water or less in it to clean and rinse. Dont use Isopropl 88% or anything, because the other 12% is water, and that wont dissapear so quickly. anyways, you can get some nice looking chrome or silver colored paint, go red, blue, black or white... whatever you want to trim it out with. The nice thing about that is you will make the engine not only look better, be be much less suseptable to rusting, and when it gets dirty, it cleans off with a simple spray of water. Also replace your vaccum tubes if your going to take them off. Often times old tubes may be fine while they are still on whatever they attach to, but if you take them off and try to put them back on, and they slide on really easy, chances are they arent sealing anymore and the rubber has dried out, causing leaks. if its already new rubber, and still springy, then maybe it will be ok. Thats what i would do to dress the engine bay.

Just do it one part at a time, and dont forget to lable your lines, or take pictures in addition to lables, so that you can easily put it back the way it should be.
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Old 10-01-2009, 11:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I know what those switches are... that's a set of factory alarm switches (which I happen to be looking for... i got a control box for the toyota alarm but those switches were gone from the parts car... or if you don't have a control box for some reason I've got one I don't have all the sensors and switches for). The control box/brain for the system should be under your driver's seat behind the speaker box.
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Old 10-01-2009, 11:42 AM   #5 (permalink)
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if it is saveable you def should do it, if not, just buy a 2 in better looking condition and swap the stuff that runs from this one to that one. this car is def a eye catcher haha
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Old 10-01-2009, 12:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Funny that the alarm controls are so blatantly displayed....
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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my car has this weird kill switch installed. it has just enough cable to piss me off when i am driving but not enough to be mounted anywhere nice >>
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
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My question is WHY would you possibly want any conversion that resulted in drawing HOT air into the intake which instantly REDUCES your horsepower? I learned this in flying airplanes, you pull the "carburetor heat" lever and rather than fresh air coming in from outside the airplane, hot air from inside the engine compartment is directed into the intake--result--instant and significant drop in RPM's. That leads me to believe that Toyota knew exactly what it was doing when it put the intake outside of the engine compartment to draw nice fresh ambient temperature air.

No offense to anyone, but the pictured conversion looks like a reduce horsepower "bling" option to me. ;-)
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
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well...even with the stock airbox...you have a warm coolant running through the throttle body warming things up....
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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the 85-86 intake was originally in the engine bay.
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