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| MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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Hello, picking up an 85' MR2 today and was wondering what is the best oil viscosity to use? I have some m1 0W40 and german castrol 0W30 and redline 5W40 laying around. Does this engine prefer thick or thin oil? What oil change interval is best?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Many skills...
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I've always used either Kendall GT-1 5w-30 synthetic blend, or Castrol 5-30. Summer or winter, both work excellent. Really depends on personal preference, I suppose.
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#3 (permalink) |
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How did this get changed?
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Use Royal Purple brand, or AmsOil, its expensive but it easily lasts 5k miles and dyno tests show an improvment in torque and whp of 5-10 more. Not to mention the Royal Purple is actually purple (which is cool)... those two oils are actual racing grade oils. I wouldnt put it in a truck or SUV, not that it wouldnt be good for it, but your not going to notice the benifits. Its made for high preformance engines with high rpm's.
Last edited by jsnod25; 10-01-2009 at 07:15 AM.. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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It depends on how worn your bearings are. My 86 has 225k miles, if I use 10w30 it reads fine cold, but zero oil pressure at idle when hot (not good). 10w40 is not much better. Using 20w50, at hot idle it reads about 1/4 of the way up. If I knew where to buy 10w60, I'd consider it. But that's on my high-mileage car, yours may do fine on 0w20.
Thinner oil means less friction, but you want your oil pressure needle up far enough you can tell it's not at zero, at all times. I'd start with a cheap oil in the middle of the range (10w30 or 40) and see where the oil pressure is. Then change viscosity up or down according to the actual oil pressure on your car. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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How did this get changed?
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i use 10w30 and i have between 50% to 80% pressure at all times, 50% at idle, 80% in acceloration, and it has 215k miles...
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Master MotorcycleMechanic
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ROTELLA
Quote:
Nice oil thread >> Which Motor Oil Do You Use Last edited by Pilot; 10-03-2009 at 09:44 AM.. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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tenacity
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Almost free oil change
I just changed to Castrol Edge. Its a 100% synthetic 10w30. It claims to be good for one full year. I have 7 vehicles and hate changing oil every 3 months (some cars have less than 50 miles in 3 months).
Advance Auto is having a special- 5 quarts and filter for $25 until 10/28/09 Advance Auto has a $10 off $25 spent coupon. Castrol has a $15 rebate. Total cost for the oil change was $1.06. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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resident GEEK!
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Quote:
PLEASE CONSIDER THE MILEAGE OF THE ENGINE BEFORE THINKING ABOUT SWITCHING TO A SYNTHETIC OR SYNTHETIC BLEND IF THE ENGINE HAS PREVIOUSLY BEEN SERVICED USING CONVENTIONAL OIL. that being said, depends really on your climate/season for weight of oil. the 0W30 would be great for colder climates. 10 or 5W30 is fine for most applications. some like to use 20W50 for hotter, harsher environments. some use it for 'race' grade oil. as for mileage, it really depends on a few things: air filtration/contaminant level, and what you'd like to believe. 3k miles is the old adage, but current oil 'technology' dictates a longer service interval due to updated detergent quality/quantity. RedLine used to have a service interval of 7.5k-10k miles with an oil filter change at the halfway point along with top-off. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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resident GEEK!
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Quote:
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#10 (permalink) |
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HAY GUISE!
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I'd buy whatever oil has the highest API grade (the most current is SM, if I remember correctly). And once you start building up your motor, I'd run full synthetic. But if it's stock, synthetic vs. conventional vs. partial synthetic won't make much of a difference.
Diesel oils (API 'C' grade) have more detergents and zinc. So you could run diesel oil every few oil changes and keep your engine really clean. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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resident GEEK!
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of course this is all personal preference, but it is important to mention that a 'proper' break-in period should preceede use of synthetic oil. of course 'proper' and break-in periods are left up to interpretation.
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#12 (permalink) |
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HAY GUISE!
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^ I forgot to mention that. I agree with you completely, I've always been taught that during a break in period you need to run conventional.
But for normal operation of a higher-performance build, full synthetic will be more beneficial. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Master MotorcycleMechanic
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Rotella has the API certification required for many car engines, such as MK2's, and the additional API certification required for diesel engines which means more phosphorus (keeps engine clean) and more zinc (protects moving parts). Most standard oils for cars could not pass the additional tests required for diesel engines because those oils can not withstand the pressure and stress that oils like Rotella are formulated to take. And no, I am not a Rotella salesman.
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#14 (permalink) |
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HAY GUISE!
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Damn. You said what I said, only better.
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#15 (permalink) |
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FREZH
Join Date: May 2009
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awlays try using amsoil. works really well wit my car
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#17 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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I use Rotella in my diesel pickup. Never considered using it in my MR2, but I may start.
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#18 (permalink) |
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FREZH
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