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MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE.

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Old 10-27-2009, 05:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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keyless entry/alarm

can u pit it in the mk1 i kno u can wit the alarm jus wonderin if u could put in the keyless entry to im not to electronic savvy so any info would be great
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Old 10-27-2009, 05:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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most alarms have a door output.... which means when you arm or disarm the alarm will be able to automatically trigger a lock or unlock event...

however, if your car does not have electric locks, then you would have to buy the aftermarket kits.... which if you are able to install them yourself they are about $15-25 each, but to have them installed will probably be $100-200 per door, depending on what local shops charge.
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Old 10-27-2009, 05:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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as long as you have power locks you can if not first you have to swap to power first it not that hard to install keyess as long as you have a schematic ( i use those kits to work the shaved door handle kits i make)
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Old 10-27-2009, 06:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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aite thanks guys
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnyavery View Post
as long as you have power locks you can if not first you have to swap to power first it not that hard to install keyess as long as you have a schematic ( i use those kits to work the shaved door handle kits i make)


You don't have to do a complete swap to electric but you do need to add a solenoid to lock and unlock which will work just fine with manual doors.
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Old 10-30-2009, 08:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
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You don't have to do a complete swap to electric but you do need to add a solenoid to lock and unlock which will work just fine with manual doors.
lol, when I wrote my post (at work) I couldn't remember the term "solenoid".... that is what is usually around $15-25....
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:19 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Would getting this + alarm work? (and if i got a third one, use it for the trunk?)

POWER DOOR LOCK CONVERSION KIT FOR 2 DOORS - BRAND NEW : eBay Motors (item 220540764931 end time Feb-13-10 13:35:43 PST)

and has there been a write up of this? i searched but it doesnt come up
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:53 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I had a Viper Keyless Entry / Alarm professionally installed, $274.21. I already had power windows / locks. Great mod. It's so much more convenient than having to stick the key in the door to unlock it. Plus now it chirps and I have a little blue blinking diode.
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:19 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patholiar View Post
Would getting this + alarm work? (and if i got a third one, use it for the trunk?)

POWER DOOR LOCK CONVERSION KIT FOR 2 DOORS - BRAND NEW : eBay Motors (item 220540764931 end time Feb-13-10 13:35:43 PST)

and has there been a write up of this? i searched but it doesnt come up


anything can be made to work but what if 6 months or 1 year from now something breaks............Where would you find replacement parts for that crappy ebay kit?

if you want power windows/locks then just buy the entire door guts from someone parting out a car.

BTW there is no benefit to power options IMO.
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:30 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinman View Post
anything can be made to work but what if 6 months or 1 year from now something breaks............Where would you find replacement parts for that crappy ebay kit?

if you want power windows/locks then just buy the entire door guts from someone parting out a car.

BTW there is no benefit to power options IMO.
Yeah less weight lol and the gears in the doors hardly ever break like they do with power windows lol...
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:42 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinman View Post
anything can be made to work but what if 6 months or 1 year from now something breaks............Where would you find replacement parts for that crappy ebay kit?

if you want power windows/locks then just buy the entire door guts from someone parting out a car.

BTW there is no benefit to power options IMO.
Yeh good point, I just prefer at least power door locks, so it'll work with an alarm and i dont have to disable alarm, then use key and unlock, then get inside and open passenger door lock. it'll be nice for when its constantly wet during the 8-9 months over here in seattle.
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patholiar View Post
Yeh good point, I just prefer at least power door locks, so it'll work with an alarm and i dont have to disable alarm, then use key and unlock, then get inside and open passenger door lock. it'll be nice for when its constantly wet during the 8-9 months over here in seattle.

you can get just the lock solenoids that will do exactly what you want without the other hassles of power everything.
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Old 02-10-2010, 06:58 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patholiar View Post
Yeh good point, I just prefer at least power door locks, so it'll work with an alarm and i dont have to disable alarm, then use key and unlock, then get inside and open passenger door lock. it'll be nice for when its constantly wet during the 8-9 months over here in seattle.
hmm.... is this for a first gen?


there are tons of us local (WA) MK1 guys....

"professional" install around here doesn't mean anything.

my $700 clifford alarm (installed about 8 years ago) was "professionally" installed to have the brain rub against the clutch plate causing it to destroy itself (Car Toys installed it...). They claimed no fault and refused to replace it. Now the alarm doesn't work.

Also, an old roommate of mine was a "professional" installer at Best Buy... he was the best at the shop... did OK work but it was quite sloppy and I wouldn't do the same. Further, 1/2 the employees there (at that time) were really crappy installers.

However, I had tapped into the alarm and installed the solenoids in the car myself... it's quite easy. In all honest opinion I think the hardest part was running the wires from the door to the car
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyotaspeed90 View Post
hmm.... is this for a first gen?


there are tons of us local (WA) MK1 guys....

"professional" install around here doesn't mean anything.

my $700 clifford alarm (installed about 8 years ago) was "professionally" installed to have the brain rub against the clutch plate causing it to destroy itself (Car Toys installed it...). They claimed no fault and refused to replace it. Now the alarm doesn't work.

Also, an old roommate of mine was a "professional" installer at Best Buy... he was the best at the shop... did OK work but it was quite sloppy and I wouldn't do the same. Further, 1/2 the employees there (at that time) were really crappy installers.

However, I had tapped into the alarm and installed the solenoids in the car myself... it's quite easy. In all honest opinion I think the hardest part was running the wires from the door to the car
I have an MKII. And yes, i def will try to install everything on the car myself, not only to save some dough, but also to learn how to do it. Any suggestions on best place to put the brain? I read somewhere in between the middle vents? So the wires are hard to get to if someone is breaking into the car.

And hello from Renton! I can't wait til I can take off the t tops during the summer here I pass by Bellingham all the time....but only cuz i go to vancouver alot. You heading up for the olympics at all?
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Old 02-11-2010, 03:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
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nope...and I'm starting to see a bit more traffic when I leave work (work in Burlington).

most brains are installed "professionally" under the dash where the wiring is easily accessible.

You can do 1 of 2 things...

in my wifes car I installed it under the dash, but it was installed quite a bit out of the way and none of the wiring looked out of place (I used the back of the fuse panel for everything) so when everything was done it looked stock.

the other thing you can do (that can throw a would-be theif off) is to do something similar but install it under the dash on the passenger side and run the wiring as parallel as possible to the stock wiring, again, making it all look original.

basically the entire purpose is to make the wiring look as good as possible -- a crap job can be undone easily (even if ziptied everywhere)... but a job that is seamless into the stock harness is hard to trace.
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