Fuel pump not working and alternator removal

[Mister Two 2]

I have just acquired a 1986 Mk1 MR2 which has been standing unused for 4 years. I have checked it over and find the alternator is seized and the engine won't go!

I have a Haynes manual and the Toyota manual on CD, and an inspection pit in my garage.

I have read the posts on this site diligently and wonder what I've got myself into! I've got a long grounding in vehicle restoration but some of the MR2 stuff is . . well . . !! So please could you seasoned MR2ists answer a couple of questions to get me started:

1. Is the alternator removed from the top or from underneath the car?

2. I have established that there is a good spark but no fuel pressure, or any noise from the pump. I've done the various checks, bridging Fp and B+ etc, and removed the console to check for power at the fuel pump connector. (This I presume is the yellow plug with two wires: white/black and light blue/black). I have power to the light blue/black wire when the key is moved to 'start' and the engine cranks over, and none when the key is released to the 'run' position.

From this I deduce that the pump is not working - are there any other checks I should do before tackling the unenviable task of tank removal??

Is it best to remove the tank over the pit for good access, or any pitfalls (sorry!!) to that plan??

All advice gratefully received - thank you!

[mr3]

The alternator is going to come out from the top. Pull up on the coolant bottle and just move it aside. Then you'll be able to get the top bolt out then you are going to have to jack up the car and get the bottem bolt out from underneath. Once thats out, pull it out from up top. I did mine in 45 mins or so.

I haven't had to do a fuel pump job yet and I really dont want to. If you are jumping Fp and B+ and it's still not going on I think it's safe to say that the pump is shot. You are going to have to drop the tank. I dont think the 86's came with a drain plug like the later cars did so you might have to syphon out what you have in there if it's more than a gallon or 2. The underbody panels have little 10 or 12mm bolts holding it on and they tend to snap. Take your time removing them and you should be allright.

Good luck with the car, let us know how you make out.

[Mister Two 2]

Thanks, mr3. Deep breath and I'll crawl underneath!

[mr2_mk1.5]

When I got my 86 it had sat for 3 years and I had the same pump problem and it turned out to be a seized pump, check for ground and 12 volt power at the connector, you should only have 12 volt with the engine cranking because the ground for the relay is controlled through the air flow meter, the 86's infact do not have a drainplug on the tank and are a real pain to siphon but make sure you soak everything down real good with a good penatrating fluid and let it soak in first(very important)while its doing that disconnect your wiring from up top, both connectors one is for the sending unit and one is for the pump, then remove all the lower plastic panels being careful because those bolts like to break, once the panels are removed remove the plastic cover on the firewall that covers the fuel vapor seperator(its the big plastic cover right down the middle of the firewall, there is one 10mm nut at the top and 1 or 2 at the bottom) then disconnect the fuel filler and vent hoses from the tank accesible from the engine compartment from underneath and yes they are a bitch and I've never found an easy way to do them, once that is done remove the brake bracket and gently place it at the back of the car and again be careful with the bolts as they seize and break, once that is done remove the two nuts on the straps while holding the tank, you might want to get someone to help you and lower the tank down front end first and slide forward. Now if your tank has the same problem mine had where its really rusty inside what I did was plugged up all the holes except the filler hole and laid the tank on its end opposite of the filler and poured in 3 gallons of a light duty acid like muratic and filled the rest with scalding hot water and leave it sit for 24 hours then poured out the mixture and pressure washed the tank then poured in a few liters of gasline antifreeze and swished it around and drained that then put in about a liter of motor oil and worked it all over the inside of the tank and dumped it out then put a new pump in and installed the tank and filled it to the brim with gas and a couple bottles of gas line antifreeze. Also if you do end up having to drop the tank drill a small hole through the pump base top and run new wires for the fuel pump, ground and positive and seal the hole with some gas resistant epoxy, I've done a few pumps on twos where I've had to drop the tank a week later to fix wiring so I just do it to everyone I do now

[Mister Two 2]

Thank you mr2_mk1.5 for your comprehensive reply - I can tell I'm really going to enjoy this one!!

[mr2_mk1.5]

grab a case of beer, order a couple of piazzas and invite some friends over

[toyotaspeed90]

when you checked it in the "start" position you showed power, but in the "run" (or "on") position you didn't?

if you didn't have it bridged at that moment, the afm is what turns the FP on... and the afm flapper door has to be open if not in the "start" position.... the vacuum of the engine trying to start will open the AFM flapper door and turn the pump on.... make sure the AFM is connected... turn the key to "on" and then push open the flapper door with your finger (remove the air filter/box)... you should hear the pump come on... if you don't, then there is a problem.

[Mister Two 2]

Thanks toyotaspeed90. My '86 car doesn't seem to have an AFM!! The air cleaner assembly has been replaced with a K&N sports filter direct onto the throttle body. I can't see any redundant wiring, and the previous owner says it ran OK.

Presumably the engine will run without an AFM if appropriate mods to the wiring have been made - any views on this, anyone ? ?

Thanks!

[espguitarist33]

not unless you have an imported corrolla motor, which you do not. I would get an airflow meter on there and then try the flap test

[Mister Two 2]

The engine is a replacement API 4AGEF fitted 45,000 miles ago and the records indicate that the K&N was on it then . . . it appears to have run happily up until the lay-up ? ? Something must have been done to it, wouldn love to know what ? ? !

[mr2_mk1.5]

A 4agef makes no sense unless you mean a 4afe which if is the case then I believe it is a MAP sensor based engine not an AFM based but also has the downside of being an economy engine, the heads are different the F series is economy based and the G series are performance based. But either way when you jump b+ and FP in the test diagnostic somewhere in the rear left corner of the engine compartment, usually bolted to the intake ducting bracket and turn the key on will bypass the saftey system of the G or F series engines(G is AFM, F is I believe oil pressure sender) which in his first post he says he has checked the plug under the console and during cranking there is power at the plug, I told him to make sure there was also a ground there to and if you wanted to go a step further connect a voltmeter set to DC volts between the + and - terminals and read for 12 volts if thats good take a portable power source(IE, booster pack or spare battery) and directly jump the terminals and yes lightblue/black is the power wire and wht/blk is ground if there is still no noise lightly tap in reverse polarity (+ - -, - -+) in short successions and see if it cracks it free sometimes it does, also post some pics of this engine please

[Mister Two 2]

Thanks, I'll try that last trick and let you know the outcome.

And I'll put some pics on as soon as I've figured out how to. . . ! T

he replacement engine warranty card says "Engine type 4AGEF, engine no: 1223970", and the original fitment engine was engine no: 4A 3025240, if those numbers are of any help. The location of the number stamped into the engine block, according to the handbook, is quite inaccessible and I've not managed to find it yet!

[Mister Two 2]

OK, have tried jumping the pump terminals under the console , both correct and reverse polarityas suggested. In both cases first time there was a hollow knock from within the tank, then silence. So, I guess the pump tried to move but is so stuck that it gave up the ghost in the attempt.