![]() |
|
|
|||||||
| MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE. |
![]() |
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
No Skills
|
Year to year changes, best performing and/or reliability year?
Hi there,
I'm looking for a mkI MR2 to replace my '94, and was wondering which years are considered most desirable in terms of handling, low weight and reliability (hopefully those not being mutually exclusive, but will consider all options). MR2wiki.com seems pretty thorough in describing year to year changes (though would be happy to hear of more). The two things that stand out are the C-52's in mid 87's and later not tending to have the popout problem, and the sway bar only being available in the 85 and the 89 SC. Does the sway bar make much of a difference, and can they still be fitted on later year cars? Also, are there lists of average weights for each year? Thanks, Alex |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
No Skills
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Utah
Posts: 17
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
Honestly, the most saught after MR2 is probably your '94 with it's body colored side moulding, low numbers, and it's one of the last years we got them in the US.
But since you're talking MK1, I'd probably say the lowest mileage SC model you can find or the cleanest hard top. Unless you can find a problem free MK1.5. |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
No Skills
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 433
Thanks: 0
Thanked 32 Times in 32 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
Swaybar doesn't make much of a difference.
the 85 hardtops are the primo when it comes to the lightest of the first gens. However, the 85's also have an odd electronic climate control that was not offered in the later years -- so if anything goes wrong with it, it's very year specific. The t-bar roofs are the heaviest, and the s/c's are by far the heaviest (all S/C's in the US were t-top roofs). The benefits to these cars is the near bullet proof transmission and the better rear brakes. But, to buy a stock s/c is going to cost significantly more than an n/a. In all of my MR2's the t-top is the most fun when it's in the sun, but the windshields crack easier and they are heavier. My favorite car to drive in terms of performance is my JDM supercharged 87 hardtop with a C52 from an ae92 in it. The most reliable MR2 I've ever had is my wifes 86, which was purchased without an engine or trans, and I basically built the car up from the dead and it's been going strong for several years now. It has a C50 in it with no popout issues. |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
No Skills
|
Thanks!
Yeah, I'm thinking a hardtop 87-89 might be the way to go for me. Does this exclude those with sunroofs? Do sunroofed cars weigh more than those without, as is the case with t-tops, or lessen chassis rigidity? Seems like the majority of the AW11's for sale at the moment have either t-tops or a sunroof. Cheers, Alex |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) |
|
Traintech86 on all im's
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Norfolk VA
Posts: 922
Thanks: 15
Thanked 25 Times in 24 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% ) |
hard tops seem more rare but from what i read, they are more solid. tbh, you'll enjoy a sun roof or a t-top just the same. i have a t-top but i noticed that the sunroof panel comes out and it would seem that the sunroof without glass would be more solid than the t-top but i don't think its as important for your average owner. if you're gonna track it, then i am sure its more important. don't waste all the time passing on them just because they aren't hard tops...
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
Brain Surgeon
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ft. Lauderdale
Posts: 1,811
Thanks: 24
Thanked 102 Times in 99 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
avoid the t-tops if possible.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|