Year to year changes, best performing and/or reliability year?

AlJam · 11-03-2009, 12:08 AM

Hi there,

I'm looking for a mkI MR2 to replace my '94, and was wondering which years are considered most desirable in terms of handling, low weight and reliability (hopefully those not being mutually exclusive, but will consider all options).
MR2wiki.com seems pretty thorough in describing year to year changes (though would be happy to hear of more). The two things that stand out are the C-52's in mid 87's and later not tending to have the popout problem, and the sway bar only being available in the 85 and the 89 SC. Does the sway bar make much of a difference, and can they still be fitted on later year cars? Also, are there lists of average weights for each year?

Thanks,
Alex

Justin Credible · 11-03-2009, 09:22 AM

Honestly, the most saught after MR2 is probably your '94 with it's body colored side moulding, low numbers, and it's one of the last years we got them in the US.
But since you're talking MK1, I'd probably say the lowest mileage SC model you can find or the cleanest hard top. Unless you can find a problem free MK1.5.

toyotaspeed90 · 11-03-2009, 12:06 PM

Swaybar doesn't make much of a difference.

the 85 hardtops are the primo when it comes to the lightest of the first gens. However, the 85's also have an odd electronic climate control that was not offered in the later years -- so if anything goes wrong with it, it's very year specific.

The t-bar roofs are the heaviest, and the s/c's are by far the heaviest (all S/C's in the US were t-top roofs). The benefits to these cars is the near bullet proof transmission and the better rear brakes. But, to buy a stock s/c is going to cost significantly more than an n/a.

In all of my MR2's the t-top is the most fun when it's in the sun, but the windshields crack easier and they are heavier. My favorite car to drive in terms of performance is my JDM supercharged 87 hardtop with a C52 from an ae92 in it. The most reliable MR2 I've ever had is my wifes 86, which was purchased without an engine or trans, and I basically built the car up from the dead and it's been going strong for several years now. It has a C50 in it with no popout issues.

AlJam · 11-22-2009, 04:59 PM

Thanks!

Yeah, I'm thinking a hardtop 87-89 might be the way to go for me. Does this exclude those with sunroofs? Do sunroofed cars weigh more than those without, as is the case with t-tops, or lessen chassis rigidity? Seems like the majority of the AW11's for sale at the moment have either t-tops or a sunroof.

Cheers,
Alex

traintech86 · 11-22-2009, 09:32 PM

hard tops seem more rare but from what i read, they are more solid. tbh, you'll enjoy a sun roof or a t-top just the same. i have a t-top but i noticed that the sunroof panel comes out and it would seem that the sunroof without glass would be more solid than the t-top but i don't think its as important for your average owner. if you're gonna track it, then i am sure its more important. don't waste all the time passing on them just because they aren't hard tops...

muffinman · 11-23-2009, 11:00 AM

avoid the t-tops if possible.

traintech86 · 11-25-2009, 10:44 PM

how dare he! /\

in the summer they are amazing lol. if it rains alot where you live though...

toyotaspeed90 · 11-30-2009, 03:31 PM

the t-tops are only good for racing if you have a rollbar or cage in the car... the body has more flex than a hardtop or sunroof car...

the t-tops are horrible in the rain.... I don't drive my t-top car and it takes up a space in the garage unnecessarily because of it's leaky t-tops.

I like the t-top when it's sunny and I'm on the freeway... that's about it.

scottohno · 12-01-2009, 10:43 AM

i had an 86 hardtop that some moron made into an 86 sunroof in 1995. i know this because i have a crappy aftermarket sunroof and its dated "jun1995" on the frame.

ugh... i dislike things like that... maybe they just put a bigger one in but still, its not stock looking... it doesnt even mount flush.

oh and btw you CAN get SOME 86's have the sway bar tabs on the strut outer tube... like i found out i do

honestly if youre looking for a tinkerer, buy an NA from any year with the c-52 and a hardtop/sunroof, and go to as many places as you can to get forced inductin on it or do a swap

if not, buy an SC from 88-89 and just cruise. all depends on what you want.

TaoJoe · 01-21-2010, 06:41 PM

I'm also looking to get an MR2 when my other Toyota sells. (I'm new to the site BTW) This thread is just what I was looking for as I want a Mk1 and I really don't know much about them.
Questions:
The C52 tranny starts in 87, right? Is that all 87 models?
I'm looking for something that gets good MPG while still being fun, should I try to get an SC or stick with NA?
I assume the SC requires premium fuel, right?
Any problems I should be looking for in an MR2 specifically?

Thanks!

8589 · 01-22-2010, 05:00 AM

"should I try to get an SC or stick with NA?"

at your level, better off with NA, leave the "heavier" SC for the ones who know what they want

think who you listen to: 'heavier roof" ...how much more? 5 pounds, 10, 15? n the driver probably weight 250 pounds..just diet bro/sis
or "buy an SC from 88-89 and just cruise"..just cruise?..(?)
or.... ah forget it.. there is a tinny line between the purist, the bias n the one who drive the right car with the wrong engine..happens in every forum, go, get the "much" lighter NA ..who needs top of the line anyway.

muffinman · 01-22-2010, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8589

"should I try to get an SC or stick with NA?"

at your level, better off with NA, leave the "heavier" SC for the ones who know what they want

think who you listen to: 'heavier roof" ...how much more? 5 pounds, 10, 15? n the driver probably weight 250 pounds..just diet bro/sis
or "buy an SC from 88-89 and just cruise"..just cruise?..(?)
or.... ah forget it.. there is a tinny line between the purist, the bias n the one who drive the right car with the wrong engine..happens in every forum, go, get the "much" lighter NA ..who needs top of the line anyway.

I have no idea what your saying.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TaoJoe

I'm also looking to get an MR2 when my other Toyota sells. (I'm new to the site BTW) This thread is just what I was looking for as I want a Mk1 and I really don't know much about them.
Questions:
The C52 tranny starts in 87, right? Is that all 87 models?
I'm looking for something that gets good MPG while still being fun, should I try to get an SC or stick with NA?
I assume the SC requires premium fuel, right?
Any problems I should be looking for in an MR2 specifically?

Thanks!

get the n/a it's cheaper and easier to find replacement parts. as for the c52 it's a very easy upgrade so i wouldn't be so concerned with that. btw not every c50 has the 5th gear pop-out.GL

TaoJoe · 01-22-2010, 04:14 PM

Thanks for the info. I'm really tempted to try to get my hands on an SC if I can find a good one...any idea what MPG they get and do they need premium fuel?

curvesrgood · 01-23-2010, 03:23 PM

Can run premium or 87... there is a switch on the dash in the SC cars. If I'm driving calmly my S/C gets basically identical mileage if not better (hard to tell, I get into the gas from time to time even when I'm trying to take it easy for a tank of gas). If I'm pushing the Supercharged car you can basically watch the gas guage go down... not so with the N/A. I'm pretty hard on my driver N/A and my worst recorded mileage is 28mpg. My worst check in the S/C was 28 too, but I don't drive it as often so even when I drive it hard, I don't usually drive it hard for a full tank o gas. The fuel select switch in mine is disabled due to the rediculous boost and I'm also running a Grunt Box to help with low RPM fuel leanout.

I've got one of each... 7 mk1's right now (Supercharged is pretty heavily modded with 14.5 lbs boost... more than twice stock). You tend to hit more quirks and little problems with the supercharged cars... my N/A has been very reliable but the S/C has gone down on me a few times. Currenty with 14.5 lbs boost I'm overstressing both the rear main and front seals and have oil leaks when I drive the car hard. New gaskets might fix that problem (I'll find out soon enough), my dad's 88 SC leaked from the rear main at stock boost (granted 140k more miles than mine though). Dad got 200+k out of his supercharged and it was running good when he sold it. I was NOT a t-top fan (have had 70's Corvettes and got that out of my system thank goodness) so I hunted down a swap car in a sunroof chassis that was well sorted. Wanted a hardtop, but the sunroof is nice since you can take it out, but you still have better structural regidity than the t-top cars.

Also note, with the Supercharged cars you'll have to remove the intercooler to do most maintenance... not a big deal, but it adds time whenenver you're wrenching on the car. Due to the intercooler, extra pipe and supercharger the engine bay is a bit more cramped than the N/A too. I actually know a few Toyota mechanics that refuse to work on the supercharged cars. No I'm not kidding, they literally turn down paying work!?! I don't think they're that bad to work on, but some folks are just intimidated by the mid engine factor and the lack of space to get to things with the supercharged car.

TaoJoe · 01-25-2010, 03:59 PM

That's some great info, thanks a lot!
Can you tell me more about what this switch actually does?
I currently have an ST185, so I'm used to working with a difficult engine. :P
If the MPG are similar and you can even run 87 octane if you want, then I think I'm leaning towards the SC.

toyotaspeed90 · 01-25-2010, 05:35 PM

the switch probably retards the timing, reducing power and knock potential....

BTW, since you're in WA, there's an 88 s/c in the Skagit? craigslist for $500... needs wheels and an engine becaue it blew... other than that, it looks pretty good

TaoJoe · 01-25-2010, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toyotaspeed90

the switch probably retards the timing, reducing power and knock potential....

BTW, since you're in WA, there's an 88 s/c in the Skagit? craigslist for $500... needs wheels and an engine becaue it blew... other than that, it looks pretty good

yeah, saw that one...but I hope to find more of a daily driver than a project car/car that needs a lot of work (like a new engine)

I saw a nice looking SC ealier this month but the seller wanted over $4K. Any idea how much I should expect to pay for a nice SC?

curvesrgood · 01-25-2010, 10:24 PM

I paid $4,000 for a swap car, I'd drop that kind of cash for a supercharged that was in good shape. The other board has one listed for a good price with low miles but it is $4,500 I think. If I didn't already have one I'd be knocking that guy's door down, I think that's a very fair price, I've seen nice well-maintained ones sell for around $6,000 before (think that's what he was asking and he sounded firm... sold it on one of the boards maybe two or so years ago I think when the economy wasn't this bad. We sold Dad's 88 SC with 200k miles for $2,500 last summer and the kid was thrilled with the car. It had a maaco paint job and nobody taped off anything aside from the glass and lights, but it was a decent car for the money... it was going to be due for a rebuild soon though and he was aware of that, so all parties involved thought that was a fair price. You can find cheaper than that I'm sure, but if you have to start working on them you might end up with more tied up in the long run. I haven't priced one in a while though, so with the bad economy you might can find a better deal maybe

.

8589 · 01-26-2010, 08:34 AM

[QUOTE=toyotaspeed90;525296]the switch probably retards the timing, reducing power and knock potential....

Your has more logic that mine (just a toggle switch to disable SC when you press REGULAR/87)..but in any case, how the common swapper deal with that?...do the ECU have a default mode once battery is disconnected n later conected?
once power restored, the feature goes to? (premium or regular)

(not all swaps include the gas option and sc green light ON in cluster)

toyotaspeed90 · 01-26-2010, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TaoJoe

yeah, saw that one...but I hope to find more of a daily driver than a project car/car that needs a lot of work (like a new engine)

I saw a nice looking SC ealier this month but the seller wanted over $4K. Any idea how much I should expect to pay for a nice SC?

a 4agze can be had for $1500 if you aren't very resourceful.... and someone around here can swap it in for pennies on the dime.... (lots of AW guys in WA)..... if i wasn't saving for our NY trip I would be on that $500 s/c car instantly.

the premium switch is something that was stock..... as I said, it probably changes characteristics in the ecu setting to reduce the amount of power (and potential knock) when the user wants to use lower grade gasoline.

a switch on the dash for the s/c is in 100% no way the same thing as the gas switch that is stock.

11-03-2009, 12:08 AM	#1 (permalink)
AlJam No Skills Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 15 Thanks: 3 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Year to year changes, best performing and/or reliability year? Hi there, I'm looking for a mkI MR2 to replace my '94, and was wondering which years are considered most desirable in terms of handling, low weight and reliability (hopefully those not being mutually exclusive, but will consider all options). MR2wiki.com seems pretty thorough in describing year to year changes (though would be happy to hear of more). The two things that stand out are the C-52's in mid 87's and later not tending to have the popout problem, and the sway bar only being available in the 85 and the 89 SC. Does the sway bar make much of a difference, and can they still be fitted on later year cars? Also, are there lists of average weights for each year? Thanks, Alex

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11-03-2009, 09:22 AM	#2 (permalink)
Justin Credible No Skills Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Utah Posts: 17 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Honestly, the most saught after MR2 is probably your '94 with it's body colored side moulding, low numbers, and it's one of the last years we got them in the US. But since you're talking MK1, I'd probably say the lowest mileage SC model you can find or the cleanest hard top. Unless you can find a problem free MK1.5.

11-03-2009, 12:06 PM	#3 (permalink)
toyotaspeed90 No Skills Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 2,401 Thanks: 0 Thanked 148 Times in 143 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Swaybar doesn't make much of a difference. the 85 hardtops are the primo when it comes to the lightest of the first gens. However, the 85's also have an odd electronic climate control that was not offered in the later years -- so if anything goes wrong with it, it's very year specific. The t-bar roofs are the heaviest, and the s/c's are by far the heaviest (all S/C's in the US were t-top roofs). The benefits to these cars is the near bullet proof transmission and the better rear brakes. But, to buy a stock s/c is going to cost significantly more than an n/a. In all of my MR2's the t-top is the most fun when it's in the sun, but the windshields crack easier and they are heavier. My favorite car to drive in terms of performance is my JDM supercharged 87 hardtop with a C52 from an ae92 in it. The most reliable MR2 I've ever had is my wifes 86, which was purchased without an engine or trans, and I basically built the car up from the dead and it's been going strong for several years now. It has a C50 in it with no popout issues.

11-22-2009, 04:59 PM	#4 (permalink)
AlJam No Skills Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 15 Thanks: 3 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Thanks! Yeah, I'm thinking a hardtop 87-89 might be the way to go for me. Does this exclude those with sunroofs? Do sunroofed cars weigh more than those without, as is the case with t-tops, or lessen chassis rigidity? Seems like the majority of the AW11's for sale at the moment have either t-tops or a sunroof. Cheers, Alex

11-22-2009, 09:32 PM	#5 (permalink)
traintech86 Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2009 Location: Yokosuka, Kanagawa Japan Posts: 1,799 Thanks: 27 Thanked 47 Times in 43 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	hard tops seem more rare but from what i read, they are more solid. tbh, you'll enjoy a sun roof or a t-top just the same. i have a t-top but i noticed that the sunroof panel comes out and it would seem that the sunroof without glass would be more solid than the t-top but i don't think its as important for your average owner. if you're gonna track it, then i am sure its more important. don't waste all the time passing on them just because they aren't hard tops...

11-23-2009, 11:00 AM	#6 (permalink)
muffinman U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Sunny South Florida Posts: 5,878 Thanks: 53 Thanked 282 Times in 271 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	avoid the t-tops if possible.

11-25-2009, 10:44 PM	#7 (permalink)
traintech86 Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2009 Location: Yokosuka, Kanagawa Japan Posts: 1,799 Thanks: 27 Thanked 47 Times in 43 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	how dare he! /\ in the summer they are amazing lol. if it rains alot where you live though...

11-30-2009, 03:31 PM	#8 (permalink)
toyotaspeed90 No Skills Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 2,401 Thanks: 0 Thanked 148 Times in 143 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	the t-tops are only good for racing if you have a rollbar or cage in the car... the body has more flex than a hardtop or sunroof car... the t-tops are horrible in the rain.... I don't drive my t-top car and it takes up a space in the garage unnecessarily because of it's leaky t-tops. I like the t-top when it's sunny and I'm on the freeway... that's about it.

12-01-2009, 10:43 AM	#9 (permalink)
scottohno control your hose Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Fox Lake, IL Posts: 5,100 Thanks: 43 Thanked 93 Times in 83 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	i had an 86 hardtop that some moron made into an 86 sunroof in 1995. i know this because i have a crappy aftermarket sunroof and its dated "jun1995" on the frame. ugh... i dislike things like that... maybe they just put a bigger one in but still, its not stock looking... it doesnt even mount flush. oh and btw you CAN get SOME 86's have the sway bar tabs on the strut outer tube... like i found out i do honestly if youre looking for a tinkerer, buy an NA from any year with the c-52 and a hardtop/sunroof, and go to as many places as you can to get forced inductin on it or do a swap if not, buy an SC from 88-89 and just cruise. all depends on what you want.

01-21-2010, 06:41 PM	#10 (permalink)
TaoJoe Zombie Slayer Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: WA Posts: 7 Thanks: 2 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	I'm also looking to get an MR2 when my other Toyota sells. (I'm new to the site BTW) This thread is just what I was looking for as I want a Mk1 and I really don't know much about them. Questions: The C52 tranny starts in 87, right? Is that all 87 models? I'm looking for something that gets good MPG while still being fun, should I try to get an SC or stick with NA? I assume the SC requires premium fuel, right? Any problems I should be looking for in an MR2 specifically? Thanks!

01-22-2010, 05:00 AM	#11 (permalink)
8589 Cage Fighter Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 186 Thanks: 3 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	"should I try to get an SC or stick with NA?" at your level, better off with NA, leave the "heavier" SC for the ones who know what they want think who you listen to: 'heavier roof" ...how much more? 5 pounds, 10, 15? n the driver probably weight 250 pounds..just diet bro/sis or "buy an SC from 88-89 and just cruise"..just cruise?..(?) or.... ah forget it.. there is a tinny line between the purist, the bias n the one who drive the right car with the wrong engine..happens in every forum, go, get the "much" lighter NA ..who needs top of the line anyway.

01-22-2010, 04:14 PM	#13 (permalink)
TaoJoe Zombie Slayer Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: WA Posts: 7 Thanks: 2 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Thanks for the info. I'm really tempted to try to get my hands on an SC if I can find a good one...any idea what MPG they get and do they need premium fuel?

01-23-2010, 03:23 PM	#14 (permalink)
curvesrgood three mk1's Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: NC Posts: 499 Thanks: 8 Thanked 33 Times in 28 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Can run premium or 87... there is a switch on the dash in the SC cars. If I'm driving calmly my S/C gets basically identical mileage if not better (hard to tell, I get into the gas from time to time even when I'm trying to take it easy for a tank of gas). If I'm pushing the Supercharged car you can basically watch the gas guage go down... not so with the N/A. I'm pretty hard on my driver N/A and my worst recorded mileage is 28mpg. My worst check in the S/C was 28 too, but I don't drive it as often so even when I drive it hard, I don't usually drive it hard for a full tank o gas. The fuel select switch in mine is disabled due to the rediculous boost and I'm also running a Grunt Box to help with low RPM fuel leanout. I've got one of each... 7 mk1's right now (Supercharged is pretty heavily modded with 14.5 lbs boost... more than twice stock). You tend to hit more quirks and little problems with the supercharged cars... my N/A has been very reliable but the S/C has gone down on me a few times. Currenty with 14.5 lbs boost I'm overstressing both the rear main and front seals and have oil leaks when I drive the car hard. New gaskets might fix that problem (I'll find out soon enough), my dad's 88 SC leaked from the rear main at stock boost (granted 140k more miles than mine though). Dad got 200+k out of his supercharged and it was running good when he sold it. I was NOT a t-top fan (have had 70's Corvettes and got that out of my system thank goodness) so I hunted down a swap car in a sunroof chassis that was well sorted. Wanted a hardtop, but the sunroof is nice since you can take it out, but you still have better structural regidity than the t-top cars. Also note, with the Supercharged cars you'll have to remove the intercooler to do most maintenance... not a big deal, but it adds time whenenver you're wrenching on the car. Due to the intercooler, extra pipe and supercharger the engine bay is a bit more cramped than the N/A too. I actually know a few Toyota mechanics that refuse to work on the supercharged cars. No I'm not kidding, they literally turn down paying work!?! I don't think they're that bad to work on, but some folks are just intimidated by the mid engine factor and the lack of space to get to things with the supercharged car.

01-25-2010, 03:59 PM	#15 (permalink)
TaoJoe Zombie Slayer Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: WA Posts: 7 Thanks: 2 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	That's some great info, thanks a lot! Can you tell me more about what this switch actually does? I currently have an ST185, so I'm used to working with a difficult engine. :P If the MPG are similar and you can even run 87 octane if you want, then I think I'm leaning towards the SC.

01-25-2010, 05:35 PM	#16 (permalink)
toyotaspeed90 No Skills Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 2,401 Thanks: 0 Thanked 148 Times in 143 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	the switch probably retards the timing, reducing power and knock potential.... BTW, since you're in WA, there's an 88 s/c in the Skagit? craigslist for $500... needs wheels and an engine becaue it blew... other than that, it looks pretty good

01-25-2010, 10:24 PM	#18 (permalink)
curvesrgood three mk1's Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: NC Posts: 499 Thanks: 8 Thanked 33 Times in 28 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I paid $4,000 for a swap car, I'd drop that kind of cash for a supercharged that was in good shape. The other board has one listed for a good price with low miles but it is $4,500 I think. If I didn't already have one I'd be knocking that guy's door down, I think that's a very fair price, I've seen nice well-maintained ones sell for around $6,000 before (think that's what he was asking and he sounded firm... sold it on one of the boards maybe two or so years ago I think when the economy wasn't this bad. We sold Dad's 88 SC with 200k miles for $2,500 last summer and the kid was thrilled with the car. It had a maaco paint job and nobody taped off anything aside from the glass and lights, but it was a decent car for the money... it was going to be due for a rebuild soon though and he was aware of that, so all parties involved thought that was a fair price. You can find cheaper than that I'm sure, but if you have to start working on them you might end up with more tied up in the long run. I haven't priced one in a while though, so with the bad economy you might can find a better deal maybe .

01-26-2010, 08:34 AM	#19 (permalink)
8589 Cage Fighter Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 186 Thanks: 3 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	[QUOTE=toyotaspeed90;525296]the switch probably retards the timing, reducing power and knock potential.... Your has more logic that mine (just a toggle switch to disable SC when you press REGULAR/87)..but in any case, how the common swapper deal with that?...do the ECU have a default mode once battery is disconnected n later conected? once power restored, the feature goes to? (premium or regular) (not all swaps include the gas option and sc green light ON in cluster)