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| MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Yokosuka, Kanagawa Japan
Posts: 1,802
Thanks: 27
Thanked 47 Times in 43 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% ) |
i can't for the life of me, find that sticky about grounds!
the one talking about cleaning your grounds and such. i been searching around for over an hour. i am trying to find the location of the stock grounds on an mk1. any help would be awesome!
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#2 (permalink) |
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1985 16v NA 6-speed
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 415
Thanks: 8
Thanked 31 Times in 24 Posts
iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to YellowJacket For This Useful Post: | Ncturnal (11-23-2009) |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Crazy Nasty Honey Badger
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
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My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
mr2's. fires. ground potential. what you NEED to be doing to your car right now.
That is the one over in the mkII section if that is the one you meant |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 328FTW For This Useful Post: | Ncturnal (11-23-2009) |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Yokosuka, Kanagawa Japan
Posts: 1,802
Thanks: 27
Thanked 47 Times in 43 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% ) |
thats what i was looking for but it seems that it wasn't as informative as i would have hoped. i was able to find what i was looking for in yellow jackets links tho.
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#5 (permalink) |
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1985 16v NA 6-speed
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 415
Thanks: 8
Thanked 31 Times in 24 Posts
iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Yokosuka, Kanagawa Japan
Posts: 1,802
Thanks: 27
Thanked 47 Times in 43 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% ) |
always love lol
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#7 (permalink) |
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unskilled
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
Posts: 2,408
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iTrader Rating: (7/100% ) |
I think he wants you to hit the little thanks button under his name.
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#8 (permalink) |
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U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sunny South Florida
Posts: 5,881
Thanks: 53
Thanked 283 Times in 272 Posts
Blog Entries: 1
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% ) |
I sense some desperation.
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#9 (permalink) |
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1985 16v NA 6-speed
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 415
Thanks: 8
Thanked 31 Times in 24 Posts
iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
Nah, its just how this board works... someone gives you something in a post, you click the THANKS button on their post. Just like when you buy/sell something, you give a trader rating...
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| The Following User Says Thank You to YellowJacket For This Useful Post: | traintech86 (11-23-2009) |
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#10 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 2,407
Thanks: 0
Thanked 149 Times in 144 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
Who cares?
The grounding points in the engine bay are: between the battery and the transmission (usually bolted on at one of the t-stat housings).... this cable is usually also incorporated into the 2 grey plug connector and is self grounded to the chasis. There is also a 2 part ground on the passenger side -- it goes from the strut tower to a clip on the engine... and also from the strut tower to the coil/ignitor clamp bolt. The ECU is grounded to the engine itself -- as is the harness. There is a 10mm bolt on the intake manifold that is holding down a connector with 5 or 6 brown (with black) wires connected to it.... There are a few grounds in the cab as well... most of them are on either side of the kick panels. In the frunk the grounding location is on the passenger side, at the base of the strut tower. I always recommend adding a good 4 gauge ground.... the one that I always find best is to run one directly from the battery to the top starter bolt..... you may have to enlarge the hole on the end that will be on the starter bolt.... However, this will ensure that the engine will have a good ground (as the bellhousing to engine bolts are within inches of this bolt) and your starter will have an excellent ground. When I do a battery relocation I run a ground from the front motor mount (one of the bolts) to a starter bolt. I will then also run a ground from one of the bolts on the rear motor mount to the engine block below the water pipes. I also use the stock grounds. In the frunk, I tie the ground directly from the battery to the same bolt that the frunk ground wire is connected to. (and for those who care... I also use a breaker up front, about 12" of wire between it and the battery... then run it to an additional fuse panel in the engine bay, in which will have 4 separate fuse locations for me to use). |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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1985 16v NA 6-speed
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 415
Thanks: 8
Thanked 31 Times in 24 Posts
iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
Quote:
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#12 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 2,407
Thanks: 0
Thanked 149 Times in 144 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
I'm stating... who cares about being thanked on an online forum.....
the rest was descriptions of where to find everything in a stock location.... I didn't look at the photo, but an actual photograph may not show much (especially on the trans side) due to how much wiring & piping is already there.... also, many are intimidated by wiring diagrams... I'm sure the photo also had recommendations as what to add and why. ![]() |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to toyotaspeed90 For This Useful Post: | traintech86 (11-25-2009) |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Yokosuka, Kanagawa Japan
Posts: 1,802
Thanks: 27
Thanked 47 Times in 43 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% ) |
you can't go wrong with having more info. hopefuly it won't be ****ty out and ill get a chance to take a look!
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