frankenstein motor.

scottohno · 12-26-2009, 02:12 PM

im buying this motor for my 86 tomorro. its from an 88. maybe a build thread in the near future?

4age motor and 5spd trans with 112k miles

mr3 · 12-26-2009, 06:10 PM

It's just a 4age lol. There isnt much difference between the ones out of the 84-mid 87's and the late 87-89s. If you wanted a swap with more power you shouldve just gone with something that actually has more power like the 20v silvertop or blacktop. Sorry to rain on your parade but a USDM 4age is still going to be weaker than a JDM one unless you dump a ton of money into it.

ToyotaTechGeek · 12-27-2009, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr3

It's just a 4age lol. There isnt much difference between the ones out of the 84-mid 87's and the late 87-89s. If you wanted a swap with more power you shouldve just gone with something that actually has more power like the 20v silvertop or blacktop. Sorry to rain on your parade but a USDM 4age is still going to be weaker than a JDM one unless you dump a ton of money into it.

i can say that i've actually seen the exact opposite on a friend's car...on the dyno...stock for stock.

toyotaspeed90 · 12-27-2009, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToyotaTechGeek

i can say that i've actually seen the exact opposite on a friend's car...on the dyno...stock for stock.

depends on the condition of the motors... and when the dyno's were done based on how long the motor was in the car....

JDM 4age 16V's are getting pretty old..... if they weren't driven then they either sat at a yard or in a storage container...... a consistently driven engine in sound condition will make more power than a JDM motor that was just slapped into the car.

That all being said, I've also seen a 100% stock bigport n/a dyno 109whp when modified bigports on the same dyno, same day were dyno'ing at mid 90whp figures....

So, all depends on the condition of the motors in question.

ToyotaTechGeek · 12-27-2009, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toyotaspeed90

depends on the condition of the motors... and when the dyno's were done based on how long the motor was in the car....

JDM 4age 16V's are getting pretty old..... if they weren't driven then they either sat at a yard or in a storage container...... a consistently driven engine in sound condition will make more power than a JDM motor that was just slapped into the car.

That all being said, I've also seen a 100% stock bigport n/a dyno 109whp when modified bigports on the same dyno, same day were dyno'ing at mid 90whp figures....

So, all depends on the condition of the motors in question.

sure, that is called subjectivity. that's an assumed deal.

scottohno · 12-28-2009, 12:46 PM

well i got the motor and the c52 trans for $220 and picked it up and its on an engine stand. there are things i dont need (clutch and flywheel, for instance) that id be willing to sell cheap. the motor has 112k on it, had the spark plugs left out so it got water in it that turned to ice, but it seems to be fine after i thawed it and it turns over. im worried about the block condition as far as cracks go, but right now im saving up for money to send the block to the machine shop to get magnefluxed, if it checks out ok, bored over and high compression pistons, head match ported, etc etc.

this will be a 16v, yes, but will not in any way be stock.

looking to sell: all items make offer

clutch, TOB, flywheel, pressure plate. theyre toyota oem replacement parts and appear to have a lot of life left.

anything else anyone needs email me and ill see if i plan to keep it or not. no starter, alt, etc on motor.

oh and one more thing. the motor needs the plate and stud that the oil filter goes onto. its just a hole and some threaded studs on the outside. i need to set it up for an oil filter. if not maybe a filter relocation kit is in my future.

toyotaspeed90 · 12-28-2009, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToyotaTechGeek

sure, that is called subjectivity. that's an assumed deal.

lol... online forums.... things that are automatically assumed?

toyotaspeed90 · 12-28-2009, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottohno

well i got the motor and the c52 trans for $220 and picked it up and its on an engine stand. there are things i dont need (clutch and flywheel, for instance) that id be willing to sell cheap. the motor has 112k on it, had the spark plugs left out so it got water in it that turned to ice, but it seems to be fine after i thawed it and it turns over. im worried about the block condition as far as cracks go, but right now im saving up for money to send the block to the machine shop to get magnefluxed, if it checks out ok, bored over and high compression pistons, head match ported, etc etc.

.

I would be more concerned about pitting on the cylinder walls......

scottohno · 12-28-2009, 10:35 PM

that too, but it has only had water in it for a little while, and its getting machined for sure, so its not too big of a deal if its pitted. if its cracked i have a problem. i have a bigger problem with having less compression than i do having a bigger diameter piston

i did some shopping and i can get a set of .5mm overbore (no machining necessary, right?) high compression 10:1 CR pistons or i could get 11:1 or 11.5:1 pistons. decisions, decisions. im thinking the best pistons i can get from toyota that are higher than stock compression but reasonable. i want to have a streetable car and eventually a supercharged high comp build.

the 10:1 pistons are toyota, the others are ARIAS pistons. i would like to keep toyots parts on a toyota car, but the arias are forged 11:1 or 11.5:1 and i think are the better option for now. in the near future i hope to have hks cams with these pistons, maybe bigger injectors form a gze if i need them, an msd 6al ignition, and put the engine/trans in the car to tune and drive with s atage 2 clutch and aluminum flywheel.

hopefully itll be able to rev faster and higher, and ill be able to have a little fun with hondas for now at least. looking to get about 160hp to the wheels with these mods. not high expectations, but will still be a fun daily driver.

scottohno · 12-28-2009, 11:05 PM

picture number one. the glorious previous owner in all of his infinite wisdom didnt cover the engine or anything, and he left it outside with no spark plugs in it so water froze in the 3+4 cylinders, mostly #4

picture 2 is what i have. something is definantly missing from the block where the oil filter goes. i need the plates that get the filter on the block. pm me if you have one! otherwise ill steal it from my 86

Zeffrin · 12-30-2009, 02:53 AM

Does that silver thing come out? I'm looking at that on mine wondering if I should try mask it up or if I can get it out to paint the block

scottohno · 12-30-2009, 01:27 PM

im missing 2 plates that the oil filter mounts on. thats just the block, no plates. im sure yours has the plates if you had the car running. you can remove the plates, but youd have to reseal them and paint them too anyway, so i would just mask it off

toyotaspeed90 · 12-30-2009, 03:23 PM

the filter adapter is actually 2 plates total.... you have 1/s of it there. When there is nothing, there is just an inset hole with a threaded hole in the middle of the block -- at that point you put the first plate on with the special banjo bolt, and then put the 2nd piece over that, bolting it together.... the filter attaches to the 2nd piece.

I have like 4, 5, or 6 different oil cooler (factory) adapters if anyone needs.... might even have more.... at least one ae92, one ae86, an sw20 (5s), and multiple aw11's

12-26-2009, 02:12 PM	#1 (permalink)
scottohno control your hose Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Fox Lake, IL Posts: 5,100 Thanks: 43 Thanked 93 Times in 83 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	frankenstein motor. im buying this motor for my 86 tomorro. its from an 88. maybe a build thread in the near future? 4age motor and 5spd trans with 112k miles

12-28-2009, 10:35 PM	#9 (permalink)
scottohno control your hose Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Fox Lake, IL Posts: 5,100 Thanks: 43 Thanked 93 Times in 83 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	that too, but it has only had water in it for a little while, and its getting machined for sure, so its not too big of a deal if its pitted. if its cracked i have a problem. i have a bigger problem with having less compression than i do having a bigger diameter piston i did some shopping and i can get a set of .5mm overbore (no machining necessary, right?) high compression 10:1 CR pistons or i could get 11:1 or 11.5:1 pistons. decisions, decisions. im thinking the best pistons i can get from toyota that are higher than stock compression but reasonable. i want to have a streetable car and eventually a supercharged high comp build. the 10:1 pistons are toyota, the others are ARIAS pistons. i would like to keep toyots parts on a toyota car, but the arias are forged 11:1 or 11.5:1 and i think are the better option for now. in the near future i hope to have hks cams with these pistons, maybe bigger injectors form a gze if i need them, an msd 6al ignition, and put the engine/trans in the car to tune and drive with s atage 2 clutch and aluminum flywheel. hopefully itll be able to rev faster and higher, and ill be able to have a little fun with hondas for now at least. looking to get about 160hp to the wheels with these mods. not high expectations, but will still be a fun daily driver. Last edited by scottohno; 12-29-2009 at 10:22 PM..

12-28-2009, 11:05 PM	#10 (permalink)
scottohno control your hose Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Fox Lake, IL Posts: 5,100 Thanks: 43 Thanked 93 Times in 83 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	pictures!!! picture number one. the glorious previous owner in all of his infinite wisdom didnt cover the engine or anything, and he left it outside with no spark plugs in it so water froze in the 3+4 cylinders, mostly #4 picture 2 is what i have. something is definantly missing from the block where the oil filter goes. i need the plates that get the filter on the block. pm me if you have one! otherwise ill steal it from my 86 Attached Thumbnails

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12-26-2009, 06:10 PM	#2 (permalink)
mr3 unskilled Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa Posts: 2,408 Thanks: 24 Thanked 98 Times in 93 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	It's just a 4age lol. There isnt much difference between the ones out of the 84-mid 87's and the late 87-89s. If you wanted a swap with more power you shouldve just gone with something that actually has more power like the 20v silvertop or blacktop. Sorry to rain on your parade but a USDM 4age is still going to be weaker than a JDM one unless you dump a ton of money into it.

12-28-2009, 12:46 PM	#6 (permalink)
scottohno control your hose Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Fox Lake, IL Posts: 5,100 Thanks: 43 Thanked 93 Times in 83 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	well i got the motor and the c52 trans for $220 and picked it up and its on an engine stand. there are things i dont need (clutch and flywheel, for instance) that id be willing to sell cheap. the motor has 112k on it, had the spark plugs left out so it got water in it that turned to ice, but it seems to be fine after i thawed it and it turns over. im worried about the block condition as far as cracks go, but right now im saving up for money to send the block to the machine shop to get magnefluxed, if it checks out ok, bored over and high compression pistons, head match ported, etc etc. this will be a 16v, yes, but will not in any way be stock. looking to sell: all items make offer clutch, TOB, flywheel, pressure plate. theyre toyota oem replacement parts and appear to have a lot of life left. anything else anyone needs email me and ill see if i plan to keep it or not. no starter, alt, etc on motor. oh and one more thing. the motor needs the plate and stud that the oil filter goes onto. its just a hole and some threaded studs on the outside. i need to set it up for an oil filter. if not maybe a filter relocation kit is in my future.

12-30-2009, 02:53 AM	#11 (permalink)
Zeffrin No Skills Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 46 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Does that silver thing come out? I'm looking at that on mine wondering if I should try mask it up or if I can get it out to paint the block

12-30-2009, 01:27 PM	#12 (permalink)
scottohno control your hose Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Fox Lake, IL Posts: 5,100 Thanks: 43 Thanked 93 Times in 83 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	im missing 2 plates that the oil filter mounts on. thats just the block, no plates. im sure yours has the plates if you had the car running. you can remove the plates, but youd have to reseal them and paint them too anyway, so i would just mask it off

12-30-2009, 03:23 PM	#13 (permalink)
toyotaspeed90 No Skills Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 2,407 Thanks: 0 Thanked 149 Times in 144 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	the filter adapter is actually 2 plates total.... you have 1/s of it there. When there is nothing, there is just an inset hole with a threaded hole in the middle of the block -- at that point you put the first plate on with the special banjo bolt, and then put the 2nd piece over that, bolting it together.... the filter attaches to the 2nd piece. I have like 4, 5, or 6 different oil cooler (factory) adapters if anyone needs.... might even have more.... at least one ae92, one ae86, an sw20 (5s), and multiple aw11's