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| MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Some Skills
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Alabama
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can someone please send me the steps to using the seafoam in the vaccum hose. the reason is that I have heard many different ways to do it and i don't want to damage my engine.
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#2 (permalink) |
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RIDIN DIRTY
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ohio
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I just used the biggest one i could find coming off the intake manifold. Turn your car on, pull one of the vaccum hoses put a funnel in it, rev your motor to about 2000 or so and start poring it in slowly. You'll see tons of smoke out the tail pipe.
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#3 (permalink) |
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RallyRacer
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Portland, OR
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Use the ones on the throttle body, not the intake manifold. You want it to cover as much of the inside of the mani as possible. Of the four ports from the front to the back of the car on the throttle body, I used the second from the front, and took a long section of vacuum tube and stuck it in the can with the engine running. Next you're supposed to hold the throttle open part way - I kept mine about 3k rpm - and let it suck most of the seafom in (depending on how much you're using). Then you're supposed to let the engine stall out, which I did by slowly releasing the throttle until the engine died, and while it was still sucking seafoam. Now that the engine is stalled, turn off the ignition and wait 15 minutes. Fire it back up and go for a drive. My motor gave the usual huge clouds of white for a while, but afterwards, I was left with a motor that pulled oil past the rings, and spewed blue smoke at full throttle over 5k. It took about an hour of driving while varying RPM (sorta like breaking in a motor) before the smoking got better. From what I've gathered talking to Zai, its because it breaks so much crud down that it ends up getting stuck in the ring grooves on the pistons, and prevents the rings from maintaining the proper tension against the cylinder. ATF soak afterwards anyone? I'm not sure whether the seafoam contributed to the current state of my poor motor, but I know I'll probably never use it on a assembled/running motor again. Works great for cleaning parts though.
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#4 (permalink) |
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MR-Crusher
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Greensboro, NC
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You're not supposed to let your engine stall out with seafoam. I have a friend that hydrolocked his engine stalling it with seafoam. You don't want to, or need to stall it out, just run the seafoam through, shut off the car, wait 5 min. then go for a drive.
You can let it stall out if you want to, but just be warned, if you get enough seafoam in there, you can hydrolock, and damage something. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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RallyRacer
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Portland, OR
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It's what the bottle said to do in the instructions
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#6 (permalink) |
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Dreaming of apexes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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You want to be very very careful of using cleaners like this in a higher milage engine. It's like CpuZapper says, it can actually clean out crud that is helping keep your engine sealed.
I've used it in fuel before, but I like the results I've gotten with ChevronTechron better.
__________________
"Inside the car, the world beyond the driver's immediate horizon ceases to exist. Alone with the solitude of his desire, survival sense numbed by the speed, he's outrun the mediocrity of the outside world, slipped the shackles it tries to clamp on us all. He is running free, chased only by a fear of failure, for failure is to risk ejection into the real world." ~Mark Hughes |
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#7 (permalink) |
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MR-Crusher
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Greensboro, NC
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My bottle didn't say that, atleast I don't remember it saying that, I'll have to go home and read the side of it.
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#8 (permalink) |
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MR-Crusher
Join Date: Nov 2005
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these are the only directions I can find on the web site:
How Many Mechanics Use SEA FOAM In Tune-Up of 4 Cycle Gasoline Carbureted or Fuel Injected Engines Autos, Trucks, and Tractors With engine warm, slowly pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint through carburetor or throttle body throat. (If vehicle is port injected slowly pour SEA FOAM through direct manifold vacuum line that will feed all cylinders, possible sources are P.C.V. valve or brake booster line.) This will pull SEA FOAM down on top of the pistons and to the back of the intake valves to dissolve carbon. Turn ignition off. Restart engine after 5 minutes. If severe carbon build up is apparent, use more Sea Foam as previously directed. Make sure exhaust is well ventilated when using Sea Foam in these various ways as fumes will be extreme for a short time. Pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint into oil crank case to clean rings, lifters, dirty parts and remove moisture. Pour 1/3 to 1 full pint into fuel tank to clean injectors, carburetor jets, fuel lines and remove moisture. Immediate Results: Smoother idle, increased R.P.M.'s better throttle response and improved performance. See label on can for detailed results for use in each area. FUEL TANK, CARBURETOR http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm Last edited by Dumbscout; 04-13-2006 at 09:44 PM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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I work at NAPA I got some bottles with no plastic on them that were hidden behind a hitch in the back, all metal tops and what not. More then 12 years old, I've been using seafoam for as long as I've been working on cars and can't remember an all metal can of the gas treatment. the transtune still uses that style.
anyway, not one says "stall motor using seafoam" or any variation of that. with that said, I can't imagine how many fingers I would need to count the people that come in and do just what the instructions say not to do. and again the staggering amount of people that F*** their car/truck up doing it is hard to believe. all these motor flushes and additives are mostly just a great profit maker, people get behind a certain brand and get their balls all jones'ed up about it. Some actually do help, others are just like Z-max, highly refined vegetable oil with Carol Shelby payed God's ransom to say it's the tits. My "mechanic in a can" choices that have helped me and my customers, engine restore (use seafoam in oil for sticky valves before oil change and then engine restore in new oil), 3m injector cleaner, seafoam (used properly, but more often suggest use in gas tank, in the oil has helped with sticky valves). ok I'll stop writing a book I have a ton of suggestions if you want them or I'll start a post if people thinks it's warrented here's my biggest advice if it's apparently a major problem no can of anything is going to just make all the trouble go away. If there was a snake oil out there for cars, it'd be great but there's not. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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MR2 MKI AW11
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
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^ I agree for the most part people do not follow instructions. Sea Foam specifies only 1/3 of a pint, and the normal cans are one pint. Therefore 1/3 of the can. It can be approximate, but it's better to measure it out, as the instructions do specify only 1/3 of a pint.
Also it should be noted you can use the vacuum hose on the brake cylinder as well. Everyone suggests different places to put it. It's up for debate which one works best. Use the one that is easiest for you and will get you the results you want. I recently used Sea Foam in my car, through the gas tank, and now about a week later I'm having problems with what I believe to be my fuel pump. Is it because of the Sea Foam? I'll never know for sure, but it doesn't mean I'll never use it again. MR.twoooooooooo, as long as you don't shove an entire can through at the same time, don't let your engine stall, and be sure to reconnect the line you use during your downtime (I'd suggest let it sit for at least 10 minutes), you should be fine. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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what most probably happened is you got some crud off the tank itself, varnish, you should try replacing the fuel pump "sock" or strainer and then the fuel filter
you can use it in any of the places suggested, it does different things for each place, in the fuel cleans the injectors, in the oil can help stock sticky valves and loosen up sludge, in the intake to clean the runners and throttle plate. it's a multi use product that when used properly is great. I myself prefer the 3m induction kit, it's more money, but purpose made for it, and a spray can for the intake cleaner is a nice touch, hell I sell the kits to shops that charge $100, I think it can be had on sale for $20, but is usually $30 |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Formerly Tom Brokaw
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bay Area
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put it in the SMALLEST vacuum line, this prevents hydrolock. if your engine is old and dirty, which it probably is, seafoam will more than likely kill your o2 sensor and sparkplugs. its possible it can clog your cat as well, but thats fairly unlikely.
never, ever, ever, pour it in your oil. ever. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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No Skills
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Diamond Bar, CA
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Quote:
that's what the can says... oh, and there's a youtube video where some guy actually called tech support about some seafoam questions, and he apparantley says its okay to let your engine stall. but there's some other faq's that are answered by the seafoam tech support, I think we can trust them...for the most part ![]() |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa
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There are geo metro forums?
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#16 (permalink) |
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3vzfe tinkering
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
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Most of the time if your pouring this stuff in your engine hoping for a cure the built up carbon has closed the ring gaps and the seafoam clears it out and the rings become near useless chattering back and forth making it smoke badly.
If you want to clear things out take of the intake manifold and soak it in degreaser or something then scrub it all out and maybe give it a sand inside or clean it up how you desire. Put back together then put in some fresh gas and run some injector cleaner through it. Does wonders and won't mess with other things as much, my SC mkI goes far better after doing this and it fixed a few minor issues. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: San Diego
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wow. I've never seen so much negative comments about seafoam. I have been using this on all my cars every 3 months and it has no ill effects. Think of it like switching from mineral oil to synthetic oil. If your car has leaks that was covered up by gunk and you switch to synthetic, those leaks will start to show same as seafoam. As long as you follow the directions, you should be fine.
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#18 (permalink) |
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3vzfe tinkering
Join Date: Aug 2008
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There is still no replacement for good ol' elbow grease. I have cleaned my motors with different products and in the end the best solution is to get in there with a brush and die grinder and clean everything. I normally give the exhaust a light port while I'm at it and grind some lumps off on the intake side. That and fuel system cleaner plus fresh seals normally does awesomeness for my motors. I also like to flush motors when I get them and change oils because they normally have buildup in them and I like clean galleries
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#19 (permalink) | |
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No Skills
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Diamond Bar, CA
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Quote:
well here's one... I just used it on my 1991 mr2 na, 225k miles, and it worked great. noticibly smoother engine, and maybe even a little extra power. seafoam gave me the best results out of everything i've tried so far (engine restore, oil treatments, lucas, slick 50, etc.) by the way...I LOVE your quote...everytime a honda beats you.....somewhere in the world.....a kitten dies LOL |
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#20 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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The best way to get a vac from the manifold is to take one of the egr tube screws out, then take one of the multi-fit vac couplers from autozone (they are above the pcv valves in every store) and hook up a vac line to that.... it works very well and you are putting it in a very central part of the intake that it will work its way into every cylinder
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