Dark Pearl Blue 87 GZE swapped MKI

[scottohno]

it has to come off when i remove the head anyway... well a lot of it does.

im worried about stupid stuff, like injector wires and the temp gauge sensors and such that all look alike (for the most part) and i dont want the injectors firing wrong (they may all fore at once, but im not sure)

its the little things that scare me. the actual dropping isnt the hard part for me. its remembering how to put it back together connector-wise.

[toyotaspeed90]

with the exception of the injectors, everything is keyed so only 1 connector goes to 1 sensor.... and toyota was even nicer than that because they're color coordinated.

if you're still concerned, a sharpie and masking tape does well

[scottohno]

thats what i was thinking! sharpie and tape. prolly duct tape.

i shall label everything, and print out a page on alldata and number the sensors

then i number them on the sheet, and keep the sheet in the glovebox. it will keep the tape pieces small and make life a bit more complicated in the end, but i dont now. i dunno the names of all of the sensors and such. at least i wont know where they go...

maybe i shall just number the injector wires in order with the cylinders. and the wires that are harder to find. i shall see what i do when i do it.

[scottohno]

ok, so i tore into my crank kit from auto zone. if i remember to i will take pictures. the manufacturer is Crankshaft Rebuilders INC and they appear to have done a swell job. the bearing journals are finely crosshatched and hazy for proper seating, and the bearings included are name brand. half are ACL (the rod bearings) and the main bearings are KING bearings. they also gave me various thrust shims for the adjustment. im very impressed.

i just hope i remember to take some pics for you guys. it looks phenomenal. very good quality for it being from auto zone. seeing as they bought it from another rebuilder company, im no longer worried about it.

i just hope i have the right size rod journals on my rods for this crank and bearings.

[scottohno]

i have yet to remove the engine, but i wanted to update...

i have been working a lot lately, and going to school as well. between the 2 i have been up from 5am to 12 midnight nonstop. however, in 13 more days of school i graduate and will have much more time. then i shall begin my projects, and i shouldnt be too long before another post on this thread. ive decided to use the cash i saved for machining of the cylinders, deck surfaces, and a good cleaning of all components. over the next winter i will tear into the head.

[scottohno]

i finally had a few hours to work. i disconnected the o2 sensor, drained the coolant, disconnected and removed the intercooler and battery, removed the exhaust, and started analyzing.

can someone tell me how these axles come out? they look different than my 86. i think theyre gze axles.

also, what, in all, do i have to remove from the engine to pull it out? push the harness through the firewall, disconnect the AC lines, disconnect the starter, and out it comes?

and a bit of a random question: i think the PO put the slotted rotor on backwards. can anyone describe how they go? internet pics are useless cause some honda guy prolly put them backwards and says theyre right and then im gonna be all messed up.

and one more thing... one of my axles is like a foot long (driver side). it has maybe 6" between the boots. im thinking maybe i dont have a c-52 transmission but then again i do have the starter on the intake side (PO must have done it) is this normal?

any hints/tips are well appreciated. im tearing back into it tomorrow and any help is welcome.

[328FTW]

They pry out the same way. You can undo the hex head bolts if you want and do it that way but draining the oil and prying them after undoing the bottom arms is easier imo.

[scottohno]

i was going to undo the hex head bolts and do it that way. i want my fluids to remain inside the transmission.

speaking of transmission, the clutch pedal is SUPER low to the floor. im replacing the clutch and bleeding the line, perhaps a pedal height adjustment is appropriate.

[scottohno]

what will i need for a valve adjustment? do i need to buy new buckets? im not sure how this little setup works.

if i were to find a 6speed, will my clutch disc for the c-52 fit on the input shaft or will i need a different one for the c160 transmission?

[328FTW]

The six speeds are C series and also use different axles, just use the E series box, it's bullet proof and the 6 speeds are overrated imo, btw the 4agze manual is an E51. For valve adjustment you need feeler gauges and patience, they are shim over bucket so you replace and swap round the shims on top to get your clearance. There is a way to work it out, I'm unmotivated to go and post it but someone might, otherwise I will later.

Actually just read the BGB, all in there, explained well and you need to get the clearance you are shooting for from it anyway.

[scottohno]

alright im gonna hold off on the valves for now. patience is something im running out of lol.

[muffinman]

If the axles are different then you definitely have the E series tranny.

[scottohno]

alright. i know the c-52 is better than the c-50, but how does the E-51 compare to a C-52?

[328FTW]

Massively better, you could make 500hp and not break it. Great box for power, 5 gears is well enough to do good times and cruise the highway. I've had 6 speeds and eh, not that much better than your average C series really, at least for the hassle.

[muffinman]

Tons stronger.

[scottohno]

awesome. i tend to beat up my transmissions, so ill probably try to find another before the year is out.

well it looks like im going to leave to work on the car today. i have work in the morning tomorrow so im not going to stay too late, but will hopefully get the engine down today, and start cleaning :/

[328FTW]

If you can break an E series with an A series motor I will fly to the US to slap you personally.

I love cleaning to, I'm a neat freak with engine bits.

[toyotaspeed90]

the axle you pictured above is to an E series.

don't remove the hex nuts..... the C series have a metal plate that holds the axle together when you remove the stub shaft... E series do not... if you jolt it just wrong after removal the cage & balls can fall out... then you get to hunt around to figure out how it goes back together because.... how it appears to go back together isn't...

[scottohno]

Im having clearance issues. I removed the hex nuts b4 I read that above statement. I think ill have them rebuilt while they're out.

[scottohno]

i think ones free spinning inside the boot, but it has enough grease in there. i will still probably have them rebuilt.

im having problems with the wiring harness not wanting to go through the firewall in the trunk. i disconnected a connector that looks like just a union in the trunk, not sure why its there. its about 2 feet from the ecu itself, and i think it was supposed to be in the engine bay.

im still having problems with the axles. the 86 NA axles are so easy compared to these things. it just wont collapse enough to get the transmission side out.

also, when i did run it, i noticed that ALL THE LIGHTS on the dash were on. im thinking alternator, but i also have some light on that says something in japanese?

i purchased a clutch and flywheel for the c-50/c-52. will it fit on the e-51 with no problems?