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| MK 1 MR2 - AW11 Discussion and technical information for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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AW11 Noobie
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 158
Thanks: 2
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iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
MR2 is acting up already...
Within a month of getting the car, I have already had/am having some decently important issues that needed/need to be dealt with.
1. Before I even picked up the car I had to have the alternator rebult. 2. A bad internal voltage regulater in the alternator gave me quite a head ache for a couple of days than was taken care of by the guys who rebuilt it. 3. A fuel return line burst something crazy and was POURING fuel everywhere. 20 minute and 5 gallon problem to get it home, 25 minutes to find it, 45 minutes to get access to it and get the new hose and clamps on. 4. Only current problem and its had me stumped for about a week now. There is a studdering and jerking of the engine when under load after the car heats up and has been driven for about 10 minutes, its starts off light and that gradually progresses till the whole car is jerking violently and wont accelorate at all. When I get to that point, if I pull over, turn the car off, and have a cigg or something when I turn the car back on its fine for a bit, but than it starts over again at a slightly quicker progression from mild to violently shaking and jerking. To try to correct this problem I have done the following: A: Full tune up, NGK plugs, OEM Toyota wires, GP cap & rotor. (Did nothing) B: Use half a bottle of RedLine Fuel Injector Cleaner with every tank. (Does nothing) C: Adjusted the spring in the air flow meter 2 clicks to make the spring tighter. (Did nothing) Further plans to correct the problem include: A: A new coolant overflow tank cap, flush, fill and bleed the system. (This weekend, crossing fingers but not expecting much) B: Check ALL vacum lines, connections and sensors. (Also this weekend, hopefully I will find something) B: New TB/TPS, I have heard that the TB's go bad on these things. (Later on, only reason is lack of $$$) C: New air flow meter, (last resort, than I am more than lost) Please help. I want this car to work, I am doing the work on it myself (with proper supervision) and actually driving it nicely. Its kinda depressing to be treating a car correctly and still have it try to **** on me. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Banned Seller
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I gotta be honest with you. These are problem cars, in that they are so old that a lot of parts break.
But not problem cars in the sense that bad engineering causes the problems, every part thats broken on mine has either been becuz of old age or becuz I screwed with it (I.E. $150 Knock sensor) I suspect the build quality is superior to that of other turbo4's though, like dsm's and 240's |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Watermelon Smasher
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Arizona
Posts: 566
Thanks: 10
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
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i had a similar problem in my mk2 and it was a busted vacuum hose
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#4 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Gnaw Bone, Indiana
Posts: 230
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could be lots of things, but a clogged catalytic comverter comes to mind.
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