Water Leak, Wet rear floor pan...T-Top, Drain tube?? Help Please!! - Page 2

eckoman_pdx · 01-21-2008, 02:08 AM

TomsMR2, I am glad this thread could help you solve the problem and save some $$!! I don't know why the kbox ones are so expensive...my guess is it's a little known OEM product. Most ppl only know about the male eccentric guide rods which require you to take apart the glass latch, etc.

Maybe since most ppl don't know the OEM female eccentric guide pockets exist, let alone for the couch change price, kbox feels they can charge a premium for them since ppl don't know where else to get them, and don't know they are OEM. In fact, Kbox never let's on they are OEM products if y ou read the discription

They just call them "kbox eccentric guide pockets.

IDK, that's my guess.

Davis, I'm glad you learned it was there. It's always nice to know what parts on the car are where!!!

Toms, even though your leak is solved...the rest of my post below may interest you since you where getting a wet floor pan...

The interior floor pan had a drain hole in it. It has a plug it in, though on some cars the plug may already be removed, depending on what the previous owner wanted. It is at the end of the drain canal under the carpet on the floor pan. There is one on the drivers side and one on the passenger's side. Both are below the OEM sub-box/storage compartments.

This Drain hole is at the end of the drain canals in the floor pan. If you remove the plug, it will allow any water trapped there to drain out. This will save you from having standing water issues. This is especially helpful if you have any type of t-top leaks, etc

Here is a picture of the Drain Hole with the plug in it. This is the passengers side. The plug installs and removes from the outside underside of the car.

Here is a picture from the underside of the car. This is the passengers side plug. You can see it installs and is removable from the underside of the car. This allows you to remove it and install it without taking the interior apart.

Here is an interior view of the drain hole with the drain plug removed. As you can see, the hole drains straight out with the plug out.

These last 2 pics show you exactly what I mean when I say it drains straight outside out the bottom of the floor pan. I stuck a short stubby screwdriver in the hole once I removed the drain plug. I took a picture of it from the interior and the exterior underside, so you could see that it does indeed drain the floor pan directly to the outside.

Interior view:

Exterior view:

As you can see, the drain hole really does drain directly to the outside. If you are worried abotu standing water, have a leak, or just want the floor pan to be able to drain, remove the plug from the underside of the car to open the drain hole. If you want to plug it, just push it back into place. I find the ashtray a convenient spot and safe spot inside to keep the drain plugs if you've removed them. I was able to comfortably reach, remove, and re-install the drain plugs from the underside without jacking the MR2 up at all.

Also, here is all the part # information for all 4 of the Drain Hoses...plus the screw that hold the bracket on the drain hoses in place. All these part #'s are confirmed, as they are all right in front of me. Some dealers seem to think these are discontinued. Not true. They just didn't know what they were looking at. When I talked to Aaron @ Lithia to order them, I was told they are an ACTIVE part number, it's just there were none in stock in the country of 2 of the 4 hoses, so they'd have to come from Japan. Some dealers may mistake this as discontinued, which is incorrect. The part numbers are active, so these are indeed available.

Front Drivers Side (Left) Drain Hose: 63246-17010
Front Passenger Side (Right) Drain Hose: 63245- 17010
Rear Drivers Side (Left) Drain Hose: 63254-17020
Rear Passenger Side (Right) Drain Hose: 63253- 17010
Screw to hold Drain Tube Bracket in place (2 per Drain Hose): 90149-50053

This picture shows the drain hose and bracket installed, with the screw holding the bracket/hose in place.

TomsMR2 · 01-29-2008, 07:25 AM

im unsure about that drainhole.. if its raining, couldnt water just as easily splash back up through that hole and soak your carpet? i think its best to leave the plug installed, but remove it in the event that you spill or get a leak again.

it looks to me like its just a service plug; something you do want to remain installed.

baktasht · 01-29-2008, 07:33 AM

As long as the underbody panels are there i don't think any water would splash back in.

TomsMR2 · 01-29-2008, 05:27 PM

it looks like the panel doesnt cover the hole in the picture..

eckoman_pdx · 01-29-2008, 05:56 PM

TomsMR2, I didn't see a panel covering the hole, though my MR2 could very well be missing underbody panels. I didn't see any under there. It was missing other stuff when I got it (like the rear x-brace, ashtray, and more) so who knows. Anyways...if I'm missing panels and a panel should be covering it, then leaving it open should not be a worry if he have the panels. Speaking of panels, if I don't have any, I'll have to get some. baktasht, from the pics, does it look like there should be a panel there and I'm just missing the panel?

I talked to Ncturnal about it. He said he has several MR2's that didn't even have a plug in them when he got them. TomsMR2, I asked him the about concern you have awhile ago, before I popped the plug out the first time. It looked like water could splash in or water vapor could get in and cause issues. He said it's not a worry, and he's never has a problem with it. Also, I noticed the floor is sloped to drain, so if anything got it, it would drain right back out. Also, the only thing above the hole and channel there is the plastic storage box or sub box. If anything got wet, it would be the plastic box, and then it would drain right back out. It shouldn't be a worry.

Still, it was easy enough to get to on my car. All those underside pics where taken with the car on the ground. I just left mine in since it was so easy to get to and remove from the underside. I'll can take it out anytime. I could easily take it out once a week, leave it out overnight, go for a drive, etc...to make sure anything trapped can drain out, then put them back in. I suppose it there are supposed to be panels covering it, I might just leave it out, as then you wouldn't have to worry about water getting it.

TomsMR2 · 01-29-2008, 07:00 PM

i daily drive, rain or shine.

i took the threads advice on 1/8 and fixed my drain tube. today is 1/29 and my carpet is STILL drying out. whatever that foam stuff is, it traps moisture like mad! i kept my interior disassembled to check for any more leaks, and the leaks are definitely gone.. thats just residual water from the tube leak.

i checked my car and theres no panel covering the hole. im sure i have all my panels intact. my lowered car is about 5ish inches from the ground where that drain hole is, a good splash is definitely going to introduce water without the plug.

i popped mine out just to check it out.. it might be a molding plug, you'll notice the chassis has plugs all over it, front to back. most cars do, im assuming they're for manufacturing purposes or something similar.

if you dont daily drive in wet weather, its probably not a concern.. but for me, that plugs really close to water, and i know that foam doesnt dry out fast!

on a side note i applied a few sheets of sound deadening stuff behind the passanger seat only (i had it and was in there, might as well). covered about 80% of the passanger side only, and it made a pretty big difference. i was amazed that so little did so much! im gonna do it piece by piece to determine when adding more does nothing. if you're gonna be in there fixing drain tubes, might want to consider tossing in some sheets of sound deadening too. i probably added 1lbs so far.

eckoman_pdx · 01-30-2008, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsMR2

i daily drive, rain or shine.

i took the threads advice on 1/8 and fixed my drain tube. today is 1/29 and my carpet is STILL drying out. whatever that foam stuff is, it traps moisture like mad! i kept my interior disassembled to check for any more leaks, and the leaks are definitely gone.. thats just residual water from the tube leak.

i checked my car and theres no panel covering the hole. im sure i have all my panels intact. my lowered car is about 5ish inches from the ground where that drain hole is, a good splash is definitely going to introduce water without the plug.

i popped mine out just to check it out.. it might be a molding plug, you'll notice the chassis has plugs all over it, front to back. most cars do, im assuming they're for manufacturing purposes or something similar.

if you dont daily drive in wet weather, its probably not a concern.. but for me, that plugs really close to water, and i know that foam doesnt dry out fast!

on a side note i applied a few sheets of sound deadening stuff behind the passanger seat only (i had it and was in there, might as well). covered about 80% of the passanger side only, and it made a pretty big difference. i was amazed that so little did so much! im gonna do it piece by piece to determine when adding more does nothing. if you're gonna be in there fixing drain tubes, might want to consider tossing in some sheets of sound deadening too. i probably added 1lbs so far.

I 100% dynamat extremed my other car, 6 bulk packs. I then covered it all 100% with Super-Insulator. That car now has an insulation value of between R8 and R16, depending on which part of the car (different amounts of layering on different parts, all is covered though). HUGE difference, I am going to throw some some deadening in the MR2 once I get some play $$ for it. Defiantly though, I recommend anyone to add some sound deadening while they are in there.

Also, I DD my MR2 as well...rain or shine (mostly rain, it's Oregon, hahaha). That's why I leave the plug in. My carpet stayed wet forever too, the Jute padding soaks up water like mad. I squeezed it and wrung it out to dry it, and it basically worked, but took forever...then I changed my mind and put in Super-Insulator. It's a double foil acoustical barrier sound deadening product from Bonded Logic. It's waterproof. I cut it to shape, put some aluminized tape on the edges to cover those...and then contact cemented it tot he carpet. The carpets been dry, and it's a damn site better sound deadening product than jute padding. it's about 1/4" thick with R4 insulation value. If you have super insulator under there instead of jute padding, leaving the plug out would matter, as it won't suck up any water. Or just do what I do...remove it once a week overnight, or remove it and go for a drive when the roads are dry, then re-install it.

93redMKII · 02-04-2008, 03:59 PM

Hi all, this looks like a helpful thread. I replaced my T-Top seals about 1 1/2 years ago and I think something must have happened to my front driver's side drain tube since my floor is wet with some recent storms we've had. I recently noticed it's wet in back too, probably where the drainage canal goes. The passenger's side is dry.

I was wondering, in case it is not that drain tube (which I think it is because earlier this year I saw water in my headliner by the dome light), does anyone know if there is a drain from the windshield wiper cowling?

Thanks for the helpful thread, much appreciated!

TomsMR2 · 02-04-2008, 04:04 PM

yes, theres a front drain tube as described in this thread a few posts up

the windshield cowl drains from the ac evap core, under the car.

93redMKII · 02-05-2008, 12:46 AM

Without removing any panels, I poured water in each of the 4 drains. The front both drain under the car, although the driver's side is a little slower. The driver's side (wet side) also seems to come out under the front wheel well as well as a drain plug, but the passenger side comes out the front wheel well as well as within the fender. Should these drain pretty quickly?

I also noticed no water draining from the rear of either side. Would I see that out the vents or under the car, or does it take a lot to drain? It seems to me that it should be going somewhere. I guess my next step is to pull those rear window panels and check the hoses.

I'm wondering at this point if it's my windshield seal that might be leaking..

TomsMR2 · 02-05-2008, 08:47 AM

quick leak check tip for seals..

turn your ac fan on full blast, set the it to fresh air mode and roll up all the windows and close the doors. give it 5 minutes or so to pressurize (i know i know, fans = no "pressure", do it anyway

). take a spray bottle full of soapy water (car wash soap works great, basically anything that foams up really well) and spray down anything you think could leak.. between the glass and door seals, windshield seal area, etc.

if you dont want to make a soapy mess, you can use a stethescope to listen for air leaks using the same method... takes some getting used to as you're gonna hear all the seals leaking a little air, you just have to determine how loud a leak is before it leaks water.. harder, but again its dry and faster.

93redMKII · 02-10-2008, 07:13 AM

That really didn't answer my question(s). I think I just had a standard window leak. Can anyone else answer my questions from above?

eckoman_pdx · 02-10-2008, 06:57 PM

93redMKII,

Usually, water that goes into the windshield wiper cowling won't get into the car at all, it should stay outside the car...unless the windshield is installed wrong. If you're windshield is leaking, it's installed wrong or somethings screwed. It shouldn't leak if the person who put it in cleaned out the old sealant and used the proper stuff and installed it right.

The drain tubes drain at a decent clip. Not super slow, but not speedy either. Just a small constant stream until they are emptied out.

There should only be 4 drains for the 4 tubes. The 2 front ones drain out behind the fenders, the 2 rear ones drain out of the rear vents. Note in the rear you won't see water pouring out the vents, it slowly drips out the vents after the tubes dump it into the drain vent. One of my above posts shows pics of this clearly.

See post 14
Link to Post 14 in this thread

It just slowly drains out of the side vent once it's dumped into the rear drain. That's why I recommended removing panels and checking in my posts. Looking at the outside isn't going to show much for the rear, due to the design. If you want to verify the tubes drain, remove the panels as I did, remove the metal plate, and then take the tube out of the drain vent and put it in a cup. Fill an identical cup with water, and pour it into the drain, trying not to spill any. With the panels out and the drain tube in a cup, you'll be able to tell if it's draining or leaking onto the interior.

As for a window leak, also see post 14. Try the OEM eccentric pockets (type-b) that I show in that pic. They are different than the OEM ones which come on the car, they cost less than $9 for 4 at a dealership, and they help. Also try the Honda Sin-Etsu grease. They DO help. If that's not enough, there are also OEM eccentric rods. Those are again only about $9 for 4, but they require you to take apart the t-top glass to put them in. Both those parts allow you to adjust the alignment of the t-tops for a tighter fit, thereby eliminating leaks.

See Post 14 again for Part number info

If your drain tubes ARE fine, try these. Even it the drain tubes are an issue, for the price I'd try those also anyways. If you need new drain tubes, all the part numbers are in this thread.

te51levin · 02-10-2008, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eckoman_pdx

Also, here is all the part # information for all 4 of the Drain Hoses...plus the screw that hold the bracket on the drain hoses in place. All these part #'s are confirmed, as they are all right in front of me. Some dealers seem to think these are discontinued. Not true. They just didn't know what they were looking at. When I talked to Aaron @ Lithia to order them, I was told they are an ACTIVE part number, it's just there were none in stock in the country of 2 of the 4 hoses, so they'd have to come from Japan. Some dealers may mistake this as discontinued, which is incorrect. The part numbers are active, so these are indeed available.

Front Drivers Side (Left) Drain Hose: 63246-17010
Front Passenger Side (Right) Drain Hose: 63245- 17010
Rear Drivers Side (Left) Drain Hose: 63254-17020
Rear Passenger Side (Right) Drain Hose: 63253- 17010
Screw to hold Drain Tube Bracket in place (2 per Drain Hose): 90149-50053

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/1...inhoseshx8.jpg

Oh SNAP, that's awesome.

You're hired, dude! I love it when customers bring this stuff to my atention. For some reason it's cool getting things in that everybody just assumes is extinct. Granted, I don't get to keep any of it, but it's still fun to see it come in.

91MR2Turbo · 04-23-2008, 04:32 PM

I know you've probably already answered this but my MR2 has leaks as well. It'll leak in through the lights in the ceiling of the car. and just a min ago i took the car for a car wash and it started leaking a bit by/through the speaker on the driver door.

01-21-2008, 02:08 AM	#21 (permalink)
eckoman_pdx Custom Car Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 1,019 Thanks: 28 Thanked 55 Times in 46 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	TomsMR2, I am glad this thread could help you solve the problem and save some $$!! I don't know why the kbox ones are so expensive...my guess is it's a little known OEM product. Most ppl only know about the male eccentric guide rods which require you to take apart the glass latch, etc. Maybe since most ppl don't know the OEM female eccentric guide pockets exist, let alone for the couch change price, kbox feels they can charge a premium for them since ppl don't know where else to get them, and don't know they are OEM. In fact, Kbox never let's on they are OEM products if y ou read the discription They just call them "kbox eccentric guide pockets. IDK, that's my guess. Davis, I'm glad you learned it was there. It's always nice to know what parts on the car are where!!! Toms, even though your leak is solved...the rest of my post below may interest you since you where getting a wet floor pan... The interior floor pan had a drain hole in it. It has a plug it in, though on some cars the plug may already be removed, depending on what the previous owner wanted. It is at the end of the drain canal under the carpet on the floor pan. There is one on the drivers side and one on the passenger's side. Both are below the OEM sub-box/storage compartments. This Drain hole is at the end of the drain canals in the floor pan. If you remove the plug, it will allow any water trapped there to drain out. This will save you from having standing water issues. This is especially helpful if you have any type of t-top leaks, etc Here is a picture of the Drain Hole with the plug in it. This is the passengers side. The plug installs and removes from the outside underside of the car. Here is a picture from the underside of the car. This is the passengers side plug. You can see it installs and is removable from the underside of the car. This allows you to remove it and install it without taking the interior apart. Here is an interior view of the drain hole with the drain plug removed. As you can see, the hole drains straight out with the plug out. These last 2 pics show you exactly what I mean when I say it drains straight outside out the bottom of the floor pan. I stuck a short stubby screwdriver in the hole once I removed the drain plug. I took a picture of it from the interior and the exterior underside, so you could see that it does indeed drain the floor pan directly to the outside. Interior view: Exterior view: As you can see, the drain hole really does drain directly to the outside. If you are worried abotu standing water, have a leak, or just want the floor pan to be able to drain, remove the plug from the underside of the car to open the drain hole. If you want to plug it, just push it back into place. I find the ashtray a convenient spot and safe spot inside to keep the drain plugs if you've removed them. I was able to comfortably reach, remove, and re-install the drain plugs from the underside without jacking the MR2 up at all. Also, here is all the part # information for all 4 of the Drain Hoses...plus the screw that hold the bracket on the drain hoses in place. All these part #'s are confirmed, as they are all right in front of me. Some dealers seem to think these are discontinued. Not true. They just didn't know what they were looking at. When I talked to Aaron @ Lithia to order them, I was told they are an ACTIVE part number, it's just there were none in stock in the country of 2 of the 4 hoses, so they'd have to come from Japan. Some dealers may mistake this as discontinued, which is incorrect. The part numbers are active, so these are indeed available. Front Drivers Side (Left) Drain Hose: 63246-17010 Front Passenger Side (Right) Drain Hose: 63245- 17010 Rear Drivers Side (Left) Drain Hose: 63254-17020 Rear Passenger Side (Right) Drain Hose: 63253- 17010 Screw to hold Drain Tube Bracket in place (2 per Drain Hose): 90149-50053 This picture shows the drain hose and bracket installed, with the screw holding the bracket/hose in place. Last edited by eckoman_pdx; 01-21-2008 at 10:20 PM.

02-04-2008, 03:59 PM	#28 (permalink)
93redMKII No Skills Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	leak Hi all, this looks like a helpful thread. I replaced my T-Top seals about 1 1/2 years ago and I think something must have happened to my front driver's side drain tube since my floor is wet with some recent storms we've had. I recently noticed it's wet in back too, probably where the drainage canal goes. The passenger's side is dry. I was wondering, in case it is not that drain tube (which I think it is because earlier this year I saw water in my headliner by the dome light), does anyone know if there is a drain from the windshield wiper cowling? Thanks for the helpful thread, much appreciated!

02-10-2008, 07:13 AM	#32 (permalink)
93redMKII No Skills Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	uh yeah That really didn't answer my question(s). I think I just had a standard window leak. Can anyone else answer my questions from above?

02-10-2008, 06:57 PM	#33 (permalink)
eckoman_pdx Custom Car Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 1,019 Thanks: 28 Thanked 55 Times in 46 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	93redMKII, Usually, water that goes into the windshield wiper cowling won't get into the car at all, it should stay outside the car...unless the windshield is installed wrong. If you're windshield is leaking, it's installed wrong or somethings screwed. It shouldn't leak if the person who put it in cleaned out the old sealant and used the proper stuff and installed it right. The drain tubes drain at a decent clip. Not super slow, but not speedy either. Just a small constant stream until they are emptied out. There should only be 4 drains for the 4 tubes. The 2 front ones drain out behind the fenders, the 2 rear ones drain out of the rear vents. Note in the rear you won't see water pouring out the vents, it slowly drips out the vents after the tubes dump it into the drain vent. One of my above posts shows pics of this clearly. See post 14 Link to Post 14 in this thread It just slowly drains out of the side vent once it's dumped into the rear drain. That's why I recommended removing panels and checking in my posts. Looking at the outside isn't going to show much for the rear, due to the design. If you want to verify the tubes drain, remove the panels as I did, remove the metal plate, and then take the tube out of the drain vent and put it in a cup. Fill an identical cup with water, and pour it into the drain, trying not to spill any. With the panels out and the drain tube in a cup, you'll be able to tell if it's draining or leaking onto the interior. As for a window leak, also see post 14. Try the OEM eccentric pockets (type-b) that I show in that pic. They are different than the OEM ones which come on the car, they cost less than $9 for 4 at a dealership, and they help. Also try the Honda Sin-Etsu grease. They DO help. If that's not enough, there are also OEM eccentric rods. Those are again only about $9 for 4, but they require you to take apart the t-top glass to put them in. Both those parts allow you to adjust the alignment of the t-tops for a tighter fit, thereby eliminating leaks. See Post 14 again for Part number info If your drain tubes ARE fine, try these. Even it the drain tubes are an issue, for the price I'd try those also anyways. If you need new drain tubes, all the part numbers are in this thread. Last edited by eckoman_pdx; 02-10-2008 at 07:05 PM.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

01-29-2008, 07:25 AM	#22 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,081 Thanks: 8 Thanked 156 Times in 133 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	im unsure about that drainhole.. if its raining, couldnt water just as easily splash back up through that hole and soak your carpet? i think its best to leave the plug installed, but remove it in the event that you spill or get a leak again. it looks to me like its just a service plug; something you do want to remain installed.

01-29-2008, 07:33 AM	#23 (permalink)
baktasht EMSPowered.com Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 3,762 Thanks: 15 Thanked 95 Times in 83 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (25/100% )	As long as the underbody panels are there i don't think any water would splash back in.

01-29-2008, 05:27 PM	#24 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,081 Thanks: 8 Thanked 156 Times in 133 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	it looks like the panel doesnt cover the hole in the picture..

01-29-2008, 05:56 PM	#25 (permalink)
eckoman_pdx Custom Car Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 1,019 Thanks: 28 Thanked 55 Times in 46 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	TomsMR2, I didn't see a panel covering the hole, though my MR2 could very well be missing underbody panels. I didn't see any under there. It was missing other stuff when I got it (like the rear x-brace, ashtray, and more) so who knows. Anyways...if I'm missing panels and a panel should be covering it, then leaving it open should not be a worry if he have the panels. Speaking of panels, if I don't have any, I'll have to get some. baktasht, from the pics, does it look like there should be a panel there and I'm just missing the panel? I talked to Ncturnal about it. He said he has several MR2's that didn't even have a plug in them when he got them. TomsMR2, I asked him the about concern you have awhile ago, before I popped the plug out the first time. It looked like water could splash in or water vapor could get in and cause issues. He said it's not a worry, and he's never has a problem with it. Also, I noticed the floor is sloped to drain, so if anything got it, it would drain right back out. Also, the only thing above the hole and channel there is the plastic storage box or sub box. If anything got wet, it would be the plastic box, and then it would drain right back out. It shouldn't be a worry. Still, it was easy enough to get to on my car. All those underside pics where taken with the car on the ground. I just left mine in since it was so easy to get to and remove from the underside. I'll can take it out anytime. I could easily take it out once a week, leave it out overnight, go for a drive, etc...to make sure anything trapped can drain out, then put them back in. I suppose it there are supposed to be panels covering it, I might just leave it out, as then you wouldn't have to worry about water getting it.

01-29-2008, 07:00 PM	#26 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,081 Thanks: 8 Thanked 156 Times in 133 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	i daily drive, rain or shine. i took the threads advice on 1/8 and fixed my drain tube. today is 1/29 and my carpet is STILL drying out. whatever that foam stuff is, it traps moisture like mad! i kept my interior disassembled to check for any more leaks, and the leaks are definitely gone.. thats just residual water from the tube leak. i checked my car and theres no panel covering the hole. im sure i have all my panels intact. my lowered car is about 5ish inches from the ground where that drain hole is, a good splash is definitely going to introduce water without the plug. i popped mine out just to check it out.. it might be a molding plug, you'll notice the chassis has plugs all over it, front to back. most cars do, im assuming they're for manufacturing purposes or something similar. if you dont daily drive in wet weather, its probably not a concern.. but for me, that plugs really close to water, and i know that foam doesnt dry out fast! on a side note i applied a few sheets of sound deadening stuff behind the passanger seat only (i had it and was in there, might as well). covered about 80% of the passanger side only, and it made a pretty big difference. i was amazed that so little did so much! im gonna do it piece by piece to determine when adding more does nothing. if you're gonna be in there fixing drain tubes, might want to consider tossing in some sheets of sound deadening too. i probably added 1lbs so far.

02-04-2008, 04:04 PM	#29 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,081 Thanks: 8 Thanked 156 Times in 133 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	yes, theres a front drain tube as described in this thread a few posts up the windshield cowl drains from the ac evap core, under the car.

02-05-2008, 12:46 AM	#30 (permalink)
93redMKII No Skills Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Without removing any panels, I poured water in each of the 4 drains. The front both drain under the car, although the driver's side is a little slower. The driver's side (wet side) also seems to come out under the front wheel well as well as a drain plug, but the passenger side comes out the front wheel well as well as within the fender. Should these drain pretty quickly? I also noticed no water draining from the rear of either side. Would I see that out the vents or under the car, or does it take a lot to drain? It seems to me that it should be going somewhere. I guess my next step is to pull those rear window panels and check the hoses. I'm wondering at this point if it's my windshield seal that might be leaking..

02-05-2008, 08:47 AM	#31 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,081 Thanks: 8 Thanked 156 Times in 133 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	quick leak check tip for seals.. turn your ac fan on full blast, set the it to fresh air mode and roll up all the windows and close the doors. give it 5 minutes or so to pressurize (i know i know, fans = no "pressure", do it anyway ). take a spray bottle full of soapy water (car wash soap works great, basically anything that foams up really well) and spray down anything you think could leak.. between the glass and door seals, windshield seal area, etc. if you dont want to make a soapy mess, you can use a stethescope to listen for air leaks using the same method... takes some getting used to as you're gonna hear all the seals leaking a little air, you just have to determine how loud a leak is before it leaks water.. harder, but again its dry and faster.

04-23-2008, 04:32 PM	#35 (permalink)
91MR2Turbo Panda Team Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: IL Posts: 16 Thanks: 17 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	I know you've probably already answered this but my MR2 has leaks as well. It'll leak in through the lights in the ceiling of the car. and just a min ago i took the car for a car wash and it started leaking a bit by/through the speaker on the driver door.