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| MK 2 MR2 - SW20 Discussion and tech for 90-99 SW20 MR2. 3S-GTE, 3S-GE, 3S-FE, 5S-FE. |
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LinkBack (13) | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#41 (permalink)
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Rev 6 Install Expert
Join Date: Sep 2007
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EDIT: Photobucket screwed up again...trying one more time
Last edited by eckoman_pdx; 01-14-2010 at 07:31 AM.. |
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#42 (permalink) | ||||
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Rev 6 Install Expert
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Quote:
![]() If they keep giving issues, let me know and I'll link to them on imageshack. I have them backed up there just in case. As for updates, here is one which pretains to t-top alginment procedures. There are 2 types of eccentric guides, as I eluded to in an earlier post. There are the "female" ones I pictured, and the "male" ones which are more known (and a bigger PITA to install). If you need more adjustment after installing the much easier to install and adjust female ones, the male ones can be had. I can try and get a part number for those if you'd like. The male ones replace the centered lock rods with off centered ones, and you may be able to combined the female and male eccentric guides for a "super eccentric" sort of thing. The BGB outlines the "T-Top Adjustment" using the male guides, so if you need more after the female ones, it's worth a shot. They do cost more and are more of a pain to install, however. Also, it's a good idea to re-apply the shin estu grease on the seals periodically. Anyways, I'll try and get the part numbers for that and post up the correct BGB page in the next few days Quote:
With szatyi's question, I know this was asked awhile ago, but I'll address it anyways. I'm can't remember the exact location of where it exists on the passenger side, but I've found it before while poking around a stripped car. Also, is your car RHD or LHD, since you said driver's side and "fuse box", and the frunk fuse box is on the passenger side here. Quote:
There is a metal plate which blocks access to the black plastic box the tube drains into. The tube drains into this box and the water exits to the outside through the triangle vents. The hose pops out above the metal plate and drops down behind the metal plate. It goes into the black plastic box beind the netal plate. In the picture below (also in post #14), you can see the 2 brackets with 2 bolt holes each in the picture (upper and lower). The plate bolts to these, and blocks acess to the black plastic box.The holes drops down behind the plate and into the box. It runs along the lines of the quarter panel, and pops out of the near the top and drops down behind the metal plate. Here's the picture from post 14, thought it doesn't show a view of the area you are taking about. I'll try and get a picture of where it exists the frame near the window at some point. ![]() Quote:
If it's leaking through the speaker in the drivers door, water is getting in there obviously. The door wire loom could have a hole with it letting water in (or it has a lot of water trapped in it which comes out on occasion. They do pack a lot of water sometimes). You can always do what a lot of body shops do to check for leaks. Remove the interior panel and the plastic covering the inside of the door, close the door, and contort down with a flashlight to look inside. Have a friend hold a hose above the door, and try and see when the water is entering from (they do this a lot with trunks). As for the roof, what shape are the t-top seals in, and how tightly does the t-top fit against the car? It may need adjustment to fit tighter. You could try the female eccentric guides and/or the male eccentric guides I mentioned above (the BGB mentions these in the "t-top adjustment" process). Also, do you know if the drain tubes are attached and working? To check the rear, take the interior panels out, and remove the drain tube from the back exit piece it goes into. Check 2 identical cups. Pour some water into the opening of the rear tubes at the t-top, and check that it all drains out into the cup. If the levels are un-equal, something wrong. The fronts are harder to check. You can't use the cup method, you basically have to dump water into the hole and look under the car to make sure it's all coming out. If the tube isn't ran correct here, water may be able to get trapped in the top area. I can try and see what I can figure out when I have my dome light and headliner out to re-wrap the headliner in novasuede. That should allow me a good view into the hole above the dome light. However, I wasn't going to tackle that project until spring time. Also, I just re-upped the pictures, so please check them and if none of them help, post up and I'll see what I can do ![]() Last edited by eckoman_pdx; 01-14-2010 at 08:29 AM.. |
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#43 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: On Hiatus.......
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Just tackled the eccentric guide mod today and checked my drain tube. This thread was seriously the only reason I got it done in 3 hours rather than 3 days. Awesome thread guys, thanks to all who contributed.
Found lots of things wrong to include a previous owner installing or messing with the drain tubes and were not seated in the rear vent triangle can on both sides, they were just laying in the subframe leaking into my interior.....$%#*$)#@%*@#$%)$.....yeah. Also found that a previous owner tried to install eccentric guides before me. They succeeded however only installed one and it was turned to where it wasn't making any difference....%(@*^)#)%%$@)....whew.....yeah. Hopefully this will fix my leak problems! |
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#44 (permalink) | |
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Rev 6 Install Expert
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Quote:
I'm amazed by the stories I've read of where previous owners have had drain tubes draining to. At least I know I didn't have the only MR2 where you got in there, looked at it and thought "what the heck??" At any rate, I've very glad the you got them put back in the right spot, and that you got the eccentric guides installed (and installed properly at that). You can also try the Honda Shin-Etsu grease on the t-top seals. It's like the Vaseline trick, as I said on previous page, but it doesn't rot the seals since it's made to re-condition seals. I have a tube of it, if you want to try it next time you're up here. Just reapply it a few times a year. It's under $15, if you decide you want buy a tube from the Honda dealership (which is close rather close by) ![]() |
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#45 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
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Sweet man, I appreciate. I can still see a small gap in my passenger side top on the rear I think it is. Its maybe 2mm but better than the 4-5mm space I had than before. I am going to test it out tomorrow by going for a drive in the rain and hopefully it will be fixed. Next will be the other eccentric guides on the side.
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#46 (permalink) |
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LS4 power...coming soon
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR.
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I've been seeing a little leak around my rear driver's side window, and this thread has shown me what to look for. Mine's a sunroof model, BTW. Still has drains to check out, I'm assuming. Thanks, Eckoman.
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#47 (permalink) | |
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Rev 6 Install Expert
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Quote:
Also, you are correct. Car's with sunroofs do indeed have drain tubes still. Good luck checking it out!! |
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#48 (permalink) |
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LS4 power...coming soon
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Finally got around to checking it out and both rear side windows had crumbled seal material. Fixed that as well as put the drain tubes into the vents where they're supposed to be. Whoever painted this car removed the interior completely and didn't re-install it correctly. Problem solved! No more leaks. Anybody expiriencing leaks in this area should remove and reseal the rear quarter windows for good measure while checking their drain tubes out.
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#49 (permalink) |
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Takumi!!
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Surrey, B.C
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Quick question, it says rear on the description. Are the front female guides the same part number too?
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price 6328417030 $2.74 $0.00 $2.14 Roof - Roof - Guide - Rear (type b) Rear (type b) - W/t-top roof 1991 - 1995 |
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#50 (permalink) | |
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Rev 6 Install Expert
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Quote:
From there, just install them in the proper position, so the pull the window down tighter or move it in the direction you need (remember, they are off center to allow adjustment). ![]() |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to eckoman_pdx For This Useful Post: | goopi (09-21-2010) |
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#51 (permalink) |
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Takumi!!
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Thank you, I will let you know how it goes when I receive them.
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#52 (permalink) |
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Rev 6 Install Expert
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,799
Thanks: 66
Thanked 177 Times in 149 Posts
iTrader Rating: (4/100% ) |
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#53 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Baltimore, MD
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I own a 91 na with t-tops and both passenger and driver sides have been leaking like mad in the rain. I'll have to look into the drain tube issue. That and get a hold of that restoring compound for the seals.
Last edited by ArchangelMedic; 10-05-2010 at 02:48 PM.. |
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#54 (permalink) |
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Takumi!!
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Surrey, B.C
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Finally arrived! Just snap off the old female guides and snap on the new ones?
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#55 (permalink) |
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Takumi!!
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Surrey, B.C
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hahahhahaha omg I was just about to snap off the old ones and I find that my right side rear one doesn't have a female guide at all!! I think the previous owner managed to take it off when taking the interior plastic apart...
![]() Edit: leaks fixed, Wow these guides helped a lot and they were super cheap! I get a ton of water dripping still but that is only because my drain tubes are clogged. Basically its like a waterfall back there but only if you point the hose at it horizontally. Rain will never come from an angle like this, so its not too bad. I will replace my drain tubes later when I have time, I can finally drive my car in rain now! ![]() Thanks! Last edited by goopi; 10-12-2010 at 08:48 PM.. |
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#56 (permalink) | |
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Rev 6 Install Expert
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,799
Thanks: 66
Thanked 177 Times in 149 Posts
iTrader Rating: (4/100% ) |
Quote:
When it comes time to get the drain tubes, give Aaron @ Lithia a call . |
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#57 (permalink) |
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tater toker
Join Date: Apr 2010
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#58 (permalink) |
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91' T-Top w/ 3SGTE Swap
Join Date: Sep 2010
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It doesn't rain much here in Vegas but I'm hoping that when it does I'm in the clear on the drain tubes as well!!
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#59 (permalink) |
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LithiaToyotaParts.com
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Why don't you test it before it rains? All it takes is a garden hose or a pitcher of water, and it beats finding out too late that the drains are clogged.
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#60 (permalink) | |
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Cage Fighter
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Quote:
eckoman, you selling your car? There is an ad in Portland craigslist that looks just like yours 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo |
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