HELP! How do I / where can I find <insert FAQ here>?!?

[rhouck]

Ok figure might be a good idea to get some rough FAQs going to make things easier for owners both new and experienced alike to find answers to some fairly common questions. If you can think of anything, add it on and the mods or whomever can clean up the mess and organize it later, depending on how it works out

If they've already got something in the works that I am unaware of... then just ignore this!

Where can I find repair manuals from my MKII MR2 NA/Turbo?
Mechanical BGB
Electrical BGB

Where can I find other Toyota technical documents?
Here, here, and here.

Where can I find a picture that explains what is in my engine bay?!
Here

How do I replace my fuel pump?
Guide #1
Guide #2

How do I flush my coolant?
Guide #1

How do I change the Hose from Hell and/or Hose from Hell on Earth?
Guide #1

How do I change my Timing Belt?
Guide #1

How do I change my Tranny (Transaxle) Fluid?
Guide #1
Guide #2

How do I remove/install my struts and/or springs?
Guide #1
Guide #2
Guide #3

How do I install 1994+ model year taillights on my 91-93 MR2?
Parts Needed
Install

How do I change my brake pads and/or rotors?
Guide #1

[Paul Boz]

I've got a few guides on my site, www.paulboz.com if you want to link to them as well. They're newbie stuff, like replacing brake componants and doing the struts/springs, but they might help someone..

[rhouck]

added, thanks

[blazinmr2]

I have a guide to advancing the timing on the 5sfe if anyone would be interested. I also have a general overall mkII faq I could post up as well.

[Mister2.2]

Feel free to post up your FAQs guys! The more the better.

[blazinmr2]

Advancing the timing in a 91-95 mkII na
courtesy of Justin Wecker

Step 1: Painting the timing marks

The timing marks are found on the crankshaft pulley. When these marks pass the degree markings on the timing tab (discussed later), you look at the two to determine the timing of the engine. For example, if you check your timing at the factory specs you will notice the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley will line up with the 10-degree mark on the timing tab, which is stationary on the engine. This tells you your timing is set at 10 degrees.
The easiest way to find the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley is to lie down on the passenger side of the car, with your head just in front of the rear wheel, and look up toward the engine compartment. You will see a pulley, shown in the picture below. This is the crankshaft pulley. There are two distinct timing marks, one on each side of the pulley, which are actually V-shaped notches. If you don’t see the marks, get in the car, put the key in the ignition, and "bump" the starter to turn over the engine, but you don’t have to start it. Get out and check for the marks again. Keep doing this until you spot them. You’ll know them when you see them. I couldn’t get both marks to show up in this picture, but you can see the one on the inside.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/w...xeTU0MQ%3D% 3D
Now that you’ve found the timing marks you need to paint them so you can see them with the timing light. Get a damp rag and clean the marks. Find a small paintbrush and a bottle of white paint or whiteout (whiteout dries faster). White is the color of choice because it will show up best under the timing light. Dip your brush in the paint or whiteout and carefully paint both marks on the pulley. Try to paint only the notches themselves. Don’t get too sloppy or your timing readings won’t be as accurate. I accidentally got a little paint outside the notches, but it wasn’t enough to make a difference.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/w...xeTU0MQ%3D% 3D

Step 2: Removing the right engine compartment "wing cover."

Removing the right wing cover will make the timing marks easier to see. This is a simple step. Open the engine lid and you will see two phillips-head screws, one in front and one in back, holding the cover on. You will also notice a ground wire bolted to the cover. Remove this bolt with a 10mm wrench or socket. Now remove the two phillips-head screws and put the screws and bolt somewhere where you won’t lose them. The cover is further held in place by plastic clips, so remove the cover by gently wiggling it while pulling inward and slightly up (Uncle Duke). Once the cover is free, set it out of the way.

Step 3: Cleaning the timing tab.

Unlike the marks on the crankshaft pulley, the marks on the timing tab are stationary. As the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley pass the marks on the timing tab, you compare the two to determine at how many degrees the timing is set. Cleaning the tab makes the marks and numbers easier to read.
The location of the timing tab is shown in the picture below. Shine a flashlight down in there and you can’t miss it. The timing tab just looks like a block of metal.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/w...xeTU0MQ%3D% 3D
The timing hash marks are on the side and the numbers are on top. There is a single hash mark at 0, 5, and 15 degrees. 10 degrees is shown with a double hash mark to make setting the timing at the factory specs easier. The timing marks on the crankshaft pulley should be set between these double hash marks if reading the factory setting. Clean the timing tab with a damp rag and use a toothbrush to get between the numbers. Sorry about the blurry picture. I had a hard time getting the camera down there. You can still see what the tab looks like, though.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/w...xeTU0MQ%3D% 3D

Now you’re ready to begin the procedure of actually advancing the timing. Before proceeding, take Mister 2 out for a quick spin to bring the engine up to normal operating temperature. It is very important that the engine is at its normal operating temperature and is idling at the usual RPM, around 800 or so. When you get back, turn the ignition off before continuing.

[blazinmr2]

Step 4: Jumping the ECU

Jumping the ECU disables the electronic timing control so the computer doesn’t retard the timing when you try to advance it. The connector you’re looking for is the gray one at the right rear top of the engine compartment and the cover says “DIAGNOSIS” (Uncle Duke). After finding the test connector, find the Vehicle Emission Control Information label on the top left corner of the engine compartment lid. There is a schematic that shows you which pins to short together. I found it helpful to copy the schematic onto a piece of graph paper and orient it as the connector appears (Uncle Duke). This makes it easier to see which pins you’re looking for. Use a paperclip or, preferably, a piece of insulated wire to jump the pins. This picture’s a bit blurry too, but the pins are still obvious.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/w...xeTU0MQ%3D% 3D

Step 5: Hooking up the timing light.

In order for the timing light to work, it must be connected to a +12 volt negative ground power supply. Normally, this power supply is the battery. Obviously, we can’t use the battery on our cars since it’s way up front. You’ll have to find a +12 volt supply in the engine compartment. On the left rear side of the engine compartment, you’ll find a black fuse box. Squeeze the tabs on this fuse box and pull up to remove the lid. Inside you’ll see a red rubber boot with a "+" on it. Pull this boot back to reveal two bolts and nuts. This is your +12 volt supply. Outside the fuse box, but not far away, you’ll see four large bolts, which are attached to the left rear strut. This is a good ground connection. The power leads for the timing light resemble miniature jumper cable clamps. As shown in the picture below, connect the red (positive) clamp to one of the two bolts under the red rubber boot in the fuse box. Connect the black (ground) clamp to one of the four bolts attached to the strut. Now you’ve got power!
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/w...xeTU0MQ%3D% 3D
The last step to hooking up the timing light is connecting the inductive pickup lead to the #1 cylinder sparkplug cable. Here, it is best to have an inductive timing light as opposed to an electronic timing light. Electronic timing lights are connected between the sparkplug and sparkplug wire to determine when that particular sparkplug fires. These aren’t the best choice when dealing with electronic ignition. If you accidentally touch something you’re not supposed to, you’re going to get a nasty shock of about 40,000 volts. You certainly wouldn’t need any coffee the rest of the day! Inductive timing lights, which can be had for as little as $30, are much safer. You simply clamp the inductive pickup around the #1 sparkplug cable as shown in the picture. The sparkplug cables are labeled with white numerics.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/w...xeTU0MQ%3D% 3D

[blazinmr2]

Step 5: Hooking up the timing light.

In order for the timing light to work, it must be connected to a +12 volt negative ground power supply. Normally, this power supply is the battery. Obviously, we can’t use the battery on our cars since it’s way up front. You’ll have to find a +12 volt supply in the engine compartment. On the left rear side of the engine compartment, you’ll find a black fuse box. Squeeze the tabs on this fuse box and pull up to remove the lid. Inside you’ll see a red rubber boot with a "+" on it. Pull this boot back to reveal two bolts and nuts. This is your +12 volt supply. Outside the fuse box, but not far away, you’ll see four large bolts, which are attached to the left rear strut. This is a good ground connection. The power leads for the timing light resemble miniature jumper cable clamps. As shown in the picture below, connect the red (positive) clamp to one of the two bolts under the red rubber boot in the fuse box. Connect the black (ground) clamp to one of the four bolts attached to the strut. Now you’ve got power!
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/w...xeTU0MQ%3D% 3D
The last step to hooking up the timing light is connecting the inductive pickup lead to the #1 cylinder sparkplug cable. Here, it is best to have an inductive timing light as opposed to an electronic timing light. Electronic timing lights are connected between the sparkplug and sparkplug wire to determine when that particular sparkplug fires. These aren’t the best choice when dealing with electronic ignition. If you accidentally touch something you’re not supposed to, you’re going to get a nasty shock of about 40,000 volts. You certainly wouldn’t need any coffee the rest of the day! Inductive timing lights, which can be had for as little as $30, are much safer. You simply clamp the inductive pickup around the #1 sparkplug cable as shown in the picture. The sparkplug cables are labeled with white numerics.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/w...xeTU0MQ%3D% 3D

Step 6: Checking the timing.

If you already know how a timing light works, then this step isn’t really necessary. But for those of you who are totally new to this (like I was) it’s a good idea to become familiar with how the timing light operates before attempting to advance the timing yourself. Double-check the timing light connections and ECU jumper to make sure everything is hooked up correctly. Also, make sure that the timing light wires aren’t dangling down inside the engine compartment. You don’t want them to be near any moving parts. If everything checks out, get in the car and start the engine. (Make sure the emergency brake is on!) The engine should still be warm, so just let the car idle normally. Now, walk to the back of the car and pick up the timing light. This picture shows what a timing light looks like:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/w...xeTU0MQ%3D% 3D
You’ll notice it has a trigger. When you pull this trigger, the strobe light flashes in sequence with the #1 cylinder. From the passenger side, lean over the engine and point the timing light at the timing tab and pull the trigger. You should see the white timing marks you painted earlier flashing between the 10 degree double hash marks on the timing tab. The timing light will only strobe at that instant when the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley match the 10 degree marks on the timing tab. The white timing mark should be steady next to 10 degrees, not jumping around. If it is jumping around, make sure you’ve shorted the correct pins on the ECU, otherwise you won’t get an accurate reading. Also, make sure your line of sight is parallel with the strobe light. You should be looking directly down on the timing tab. If you try to read the timing marks from an angle, you may experience what are called parallax errors, meaning the timing mark will appear to be in a different position since you’re looking at it at an angle. If you’re having a hard time seeing the white marks, you may have to turn the engine off and paint them again. It also helps to have someone hold the engine lid up so you can move the prop rod out of the way. This makes it easier to get directly over the timing tab. Once you have a feel for how the timing light works, set it aside and shut off the engine.

[blazinmr2]

Step 7: Advancing the timing.

Now that you know how to use the timing light, you’re finally ready to advance the timing. You’ll need someone to help you with this step. To physically advance the timing, you simply turn the distributor until the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley indicate the desired timing degrees on the timing tab. You first need to loosen the distributor, but before you do that, make sure the engine is off. Standing on the driver’s side of the car, the bolt you need to loosen is to the left of the distributor, illustrated in the picture below.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/w...xeTU0MQ%3D% 3D
Using a 12mm socket, loosen the bolt on the distributor clamp, but not too much. Right now, you just want the bolt to be snug so that you can easily loosen it and turn the distributor later. This is important because if the bolt is very tight and you try to loosen it while the engine is running, your hand could jerk upward when the bolt breaks loose and the distributor might suddenly twist. You obviously don’t want this, so break the bolt loose while the engine is off, then snug it up a bit to hold the distributor in place. Now for the fun part. Start the engine again and grab your timing light. Point the light at the timing tab and timing marks just as you did earlier. Instruct your helper to loosen the bolt on the distributor clamp just enough so that he/she can turn the distributor against light resistance. Slowly turn the distributor to the right, towards the back of the car. While your helper is turning the distributor, watch closely the white timing marks on the crankshaft pulley. You want to set the timing at 12.5 degrees, which is halfway between the 10 and 15 degree hash marks on the timing tab. But remember that the 10 degree mark is between the double hash marks, so you’ll have to set the timing mark halfway between this center point and the single mark at 15 degrees. It can be a little difficult to see this at first, so just do the best you can. As the distributor is turned, you will see the white timing marks slowly move up the scale. When you’re satisfied with the position of the marks, tell your helper to stop turning the distributor and check the timing marks again. If they’re as close as you think you’re going to get them, slowly tighten the bolt on the distributor clamp, but keep your eye on the timing marks to make sure they don’t move. It is common for the distributor to move a little bit while the bolt is being tightened, and this can throw your timing mark off. If the timing marks move, you’ll have to loosen the distributor and try again. Once you get the distributor tightened without the timing marks moving, you’re home free. With the distributor tight, check the timing one last time to make sure it’s where you want it. That’s it! You’re finally finished! Disconnect the timing light and remove the jumper from the ECU. When you remove the jumper, you will notice the engine RPMs increase. This is normal. If you want, you can turn the car off before removing the ECU jumper, but it doesn’t make any difference either way. Put the engine compartment wing cover back on, clean up your mess, and take your baby out for a spin!

The test drive.

This part made me more nervous than anything else did because it would tell me if I did anything wrong or not. I didn’t want to have to go back and change the timing again and luckily, I didn’t have to. On your first drive, you should notice that your car has better power at low RPMs, meaning slightly more torque. However, advancing the timing won’t do much for top end power.

You may pick up a little low rev transient detonation on 87 PON (Pump Octane Number) grade fuel, but it’s not enough to cause any damage. The acid test of detonation is whether or not it pings heavily under load. Lug it down to 1500 revs in fourth gear and floor it. If it doesn’t detonate you’re okay, but a little light transient pinging that goes away by 1800-2000 RPM is okay, too (Uncle Duke).

This may seem like an involved process because these instructions are so long, but I tried to explain every step as clearly and with as much detail as I could. Even if you’re not good with cars (I know I’m not), you can do this. Now that you know what to look for, the first five steps, maybe even the first six, you could probably do in twenty minutes or less. Once you start going through these instructions and identifying all the parts and processes described, everything will come together and you’ll be glad you got the experience.

[blazinmr2]

MKII model info:

Toyota built the mkII Mr2 between late- 1989- 1998 in Japan. The Mr2 was first imported to the U.S. in early 1990 as 1991 model year vehicle. The Mr2 was available in the U.S. with both naturally aspirated and turbocharged engines. The body styles available with a hardtop, sunroof, or T-tops. The U.S. market Mr2 was significantly updated and modified for the 1993 model year, with continued modifications in 1994 and 1995. And I will go into these details a little later on.

The U.s. market mr2 sold in greatest quantity in 1991, with decreased sales every year thereafter. By 1994 the mr2 was quite a rarity, with less than 2,000 sold statewide. In the U.S. 1995 was the last model year that the mkII was sold in the U.S, selling less than 1,000. In japan it continued on well untill its final year in 1998.

Mr2 Model Details:

1991-1992: 11,211(1991) and 6,188 (1992) sold in the U.S. These model year cars were essentially identical. 1992 model year cars were not produced for a full year, instead the improved 1993 version took over production lines in mid 1992. 14" wheels were standard, 195/60 front and 205/60 rear tires. The rear spoiler was optional on the n/a mr2, but most dealers equipped them with one anyway.

1993: 2,917 sold in the U.S. Numerous changes were made from the 91/92 cars, a revised rear suspension geometry, different front and rear springs that gave the car a 1" lower stance, bigger 15" wheels with 195/55 front and 225/50 rear tires, longer lug nuts front and rear, different torsion bar and pivot points for reduced to change under heavy cornering loads.

Improved transmission in turbo cars, with changes to the 2nd and 3rd gear synchros, shorter throw manual shifter added. A viscous limited slip differential was an available option on the turbo model.

Non-turbo models recieved a 5-hp improvement to 135 hp.

Different throttle body on the turbo model, was not any wider in diameter, but it had a revised throttle linkage engagement.

Addition of a front lip spoiler.

Premium stereo option included 8- speakers versus the previous 7-speaker setup.

1994: 908 sold. No sunroof or hardtop body available for turbo models. Dual airbags included, with revised tail lights and a new rear spoiler. lower body cladding, front lip spoiler, and side black stripe molding all painted to match body. AC changed to meet environmental regulations. Improved shock rates.

1995: Around 356 were sold, this was the last year the mkII was available in the U.S. No turbo models available in California-emissions regulated states. Revised intercooler.

more continued on next post...

[blazinmr2]

In the U.S. the 94-95 models are the rarest and most expensive versions of the mr2. Most mr2 turbos were equipped with a t- top roof, fewer with a sunroof. The hardtop is rare in the U.S. and highly sought after by racers because of there lighter weight and stiffer chassis. In 1993 approximately 10 hardtop turbos were sold in the U.S.

The mr2 continued to be available in Europe and Japan untill the 99' model year. The jdm mr2 turbo initially produced 225 hp for the gen II 3sgte and 245hp for the gen III 3sgte, from 1994 on. Suspension revisions continued into the final year, wheel design was changed every few years.

Jdm non-turbo cars always utilized the 3sge engine instead of the 5sfe. This engine is the same as the turbo version, except with higher compression pistons, no turbo, different intake manifold as well as other changes. Initially these engines produced 165hp, then 185, and eventually 200hp.

The mkII was also available as a limited edition convertable, know as the mr2 spyder in 1996.

Options:

1991: Anti-lock brakes, Electro-hydraulic Power Steering (EHPS), AC, power locks, power mirrors, power windows, leather seats and trim, premium stereo, dimming interior lights, alarm, cruise control.

New for 1993: keyless entry, L.S.D.

Body Colors

1991/92: nautical blue (8h3), Black (202), super white 1 (043), crimson red (3j6), signal yellow (567), aquamarine pearl (742), steel mist grey (187)

1993: super red (3e5), super white (040), Blue (8j2, 1993 only), turquoise pearl (746, 1993 only)

1994: Solar yellow (576), Dark green pearl (6m1), Tropical Blue (8b6)

1995: Silver (199, 10 year anniversary edition)

I don't feel like typing anymore tonight, I'll post the rest tomorrow.

[blazinmr2]

There are several areas where most owners find themselves working on and replacing. Here is a list of many common problems found in the 91/92 Turbos.

Radio antenna: When the radio antenna fails to retract or deploy, it is usually because the plastic grooved cable inside the retractable antenna mast has become stripped. Toyota sells the antenna mast for $40 or so, and this can be fairly easy to replace.

Exhaust Manifold: In the 91/92 models the manifold can warp, causing an exhaust leak and reducing power and response. Often times the manifold warps because one of the seven studs has broken or one of the nuts and fallen off. Fixing this problem can be expensive, especially if you don't do the work yourself. Listen for a crackling noise when the engine is cold and you depress the throttle.

Ball Joints: The ball joints on the MR2 can last a long time (100k miles), however, if you notice a shaking in your steering wheel at speed and you know that the wheels are all balanced and the alignment proper, than the ball joints may need to be replaced. Toyota sells these at -$35/each.

Leather Seats: If the seats are taken very good care of they tend to crack, harden, and tear, especially in the T-top cars. If enough damage is done expect to need new leather. Expensive!

Bouncing Speedometer Needle: This is a common problem in the 91192 cars as they utilize a cable run system. Sometimes the plastic speedo cable gear wears out at the gearbox, needing to be replaced. Other times the cable itself will fray, and will need to be replaced.

CD Player Skipping: The CD portion of the 3-n-1 stereo can sometimes misplay, skip, or not play, but this can be fixed fairly easily if your are prepared to open up the stereo unit.

Frozen Emeraency Brake Cables: Overtime the emergency brake cables can freeze up because of trapped moisture inside the cable shroud. The offending cable should probably just be replaced. Toyota sells them for around $50 for the left and right side cables. Use caution in the wintertime when using you E-brake.

Water Temperature Gauge Fails: Actually, it is the gauge's sensor that typically fails. The sensor hooks up to the water elbow on the driver's side of the engine. Expect the sensor to run $30.


Engines:

Normally-Aspirated: 5S-FE (2.2L)

Turbo: 3S-GTE (2.OL)

The 5S-FE produced 130hp @ 5400rpm in 1991192, 135hp from 93 on.

The 3S-GTE was always rated at 200hp @ 6000rpm and 200 lb.-ft or torque
at 3200rpm according to Toyota.

In reality few 91/92 MR2 Turbo cars produced that much power in stock form.

The Turbo engine produced between 9-12psi in high boost mode. Boost can be limited by the to 7psi if the ECU detects conditions that could be dangerous to the engine. The ECU has a fuel cut that cuts boost if the manifold pressure exceeds 12psi. In reality, many owners have found that the boost cut does not engage until higher than 12psi.

Turbo

The stock turbocharger on the MKII is Toyota's CT-26. It is water and oil cooled. The turbo also has an internal wastegate. The turbo utilizes a small (possibly 40-trim) compressor wheel, and an equally sized impeller on the exhaust size. Most have found that the exhaust side ultimately limits the turbo's power capabilities, in that it is not efficient at higher boost. For this reason, owners increasing boost should not exceed 14-15psi with a stock turbo.

Upgraded stock turbos come in various compressor sizes. These include -46, -50, -54, and -60 trim compressors. Most MR2 owners do not recommend going over the -50 trim. The -46 trim is excellent for quick response, while the -50 trim may be the best for creating overall power. Most owners find that with an upgraded stock turbo, horsepower is limited to about 260 rear wheel horsepower (rwhp)_ With the stock turbo, rwhp is limited to about 220.

The ultimate way to upgrade your turbo is to go with an after-market turbo. The Greddy TD-06 is a favorite among many owners, while true ball-bearing turbos, such as the T-314, is the best way to go custom high-horsepower machines. The T-314 does require an external wastegate. The Greddy T-67 is another good big turbo, and includes all necessary hardware for installation, including a tubular exhaust manifold. Both Greddy turbos are problematic in that they do not allow the use of the stock primary catalytic converter. This is fine for owners who do not live in areas that require emissions tests, but the rest of us would have to utilize an aftermarket catalytic converter and hope it still meets regulations. HKS produces a TD-05 turbo kit for the MR2, which allows the use of the stock primary catalytic converter. The downfall here is that the turbo is slightly smaller than the Greddy TD-06, so overall power potential will be slightly lower, all things being equal.

Intercooler
The MR2 Turbo suffers from poor placement of the stock intercooler. The intercooler is fed by the passenger side air scoop, which limits airflow through the intercooler. This means that the intercooler is not going to be as efficient as a front-mount design. There are several options to upgrade the intercooler. The first and cheapest is to disconnect the intercooler fan temperature sensor on the engine lid. By disconnecting the sensor the intercooler fan goes into a fail-safe always-running mode. This will increase the time the intercooler takes to heat soak, however the stock fan does not pull enough air through the intercooler to prevent this condition.

Your next option is to upgrade the intercooler fan with one from an aftermarket company, such as SPAL. Using a 7.5" puller fan is place of the stock fan, power levels will remain more consistent over a wider temperature range. This setup is even better when a pusher fan is installed on the opposite side of the intercooler. With this pusher-puller fan setup sandwiching the intercooler, higher boost levels are better supported over a wide ambient temperature range. SPAL fans typically run $65 a fan.

Your next option is to install an aftermarket intercoolerwith a bigger core. Oversized intercoolers are available from Greddy, HKS, and several other companies. Fans should still be utilized to maximize performance.

Boost Control
As with most turbocharged cars, there are two ways to increase boost, electronically and manually. A manual boost controller is much less expensive, but generally doesn't allow for accurate, on-the-fly boost adjustment. There are two types: bleeder and ball-and-spring. The bleeder type utilizes a needle valve, and restricts the flow of pressurized air to the wastegate. This slows the reaction time of the wastegate, thus allowing for higher than normal boost levels.

[blazinmr2]

boost control cont.

The disadvantage of this type is that it allows for more boost, it doesn't allow the turbo to spool up any faster. A ball and spring type controller, such as the Hallman valve uses a preset spring to completely cut the feed to the wastegate until the desired boost level is reached. This allows for very quick turbo spool up, as well as higher boost levels. The only disadvantage of this type is that boost spikes may occur because of the rapid spool speed. Generally manual boost controllers are installed between the turbo compressor bung and the wastegate. While it is possible to run vacuum tubing into the cabin to allow the driver to adjust boost while driving, most leave the controller in the engine bay and set and forget it. Manual boost controllers are nice in that they can be easily and cheaply created with parts found at most hardware stores for less than $20. Do not pay more than $60 in parts for either type if you are buying from a dealer or speed shop (you are getting ripped off).

The second type of boost controller is an electronic boost controller. Many companies produce these, and most can be found no cheaper than $300, and on up to $1000. Electronic boost controllers come with many different features, but most can be set for an exact boost level.

Boost Monitoring
Do not attempt to raise the boost on your car without first buying and installing an aftermarket boost gauge. The stock gauge is utterly worthless. It is an electronic type, relying on an electronic sensor/control unit to indict boost-only conditions. It is slow to respond to boost increases, and not a reliable way to measure the boost level.

Most owners recommend installing a mechanical type boost gauge. A gauge of this sort can be had for not more than $60. Autometer is a generally accepted gauge manufacturer across the turbo community. Expect to pay more for a Japanese gauge, such as Greddy, HKS, Blitz, and APEX'i.
A mechanical boost gauge operates by way of a thin vacuum/boost hose that runs from an intake source in the engine bay to the gauge. Any puncture or pinch point in the line will create a faulty or no reading.

Most owners install their extra gauges with an a-pillar mount. A-pillar mounts are typically molded plastic that matches the stock interior well (at least if you have a black interior). A single metal pod can also be used and installed to the top of the dash. The stock boost gauge can be swapped out and replaced with an aftermarket gauge, however, you will have to modify your instrument cluster. Gauges can also be set into the dash, specifically in place of one of the center vents. Mounting the gauge in the glove box is possible, although not really practical.

Intake
An aftermarket intake is a quick and easy way to add 5-10hp. There are many intake kits available, including HKS, Greddy, APEX'i, K&N, Weapon R, RMS, TRD, etc. The APEX'i Super Intake seems to be highly regarded by many owners in that it filter very well, is reusable, and produces strong horsepower gains. The HKS and Greddy intake also produce strong gains, however, uses a foam element that does not filter as well as cotton filters. The HKS filter is not reusable. K&N filters are popular across the performance car community, and are reusable.

Owners considering an aftermarket intake should be warned that there will be an increase in intake noise, as you are removing the stock intake resonator. I add that I know of few people who complain though. If you are increasing boost on your MR2 Turbo it is highly recommended that you install an aftermarket intake before doing so.

Exhaust

Aftermarket exhaust systems are excellent in increasing engine power and turbo response. Gains as high as 15hp on an otherwise stock engine care often realized. Exhausts typically run $450 on up.

Many companies offer exhaust systems for the MR2 Turbo of which can be broken down into those that retain the secondary catalytic converter and those that do not. You should note that you might run into emissions problems if you install one of the latter types.

Manufacturers included, but are not limited to, APEX'i, HKS, Greddy, and Thermal Research & Development. Numerous custom setups are possible as well.

In the MR2 community, the APEX'i GT-spec and Greddy Power Extreme are popular

Gauges
The stock NA MR2 has the following gauges, going left to right: coolant temperature, 8000rpm tachometer, voltmeter, speedometer, and fuel level.

The stock Turbo MR2 has the same gauges, however, the voltmeter is replaced with a boost gauge, and has a 160mph speedo and 9000rpm tach.

The stock boost gauge can be replaced with the NA's voltmeter with a minimum of modifications (nothing permanent).

Owners may want to add gauges to their car, to better monitor the engine's vital signs. For turbo cars a boost gauge is important. An oil pressure gauge is also a good idea, preferable electronic*type (don't want to run an oil line into the cabin), to hopefully prevent the catastrophic damage caused by a sudden loss in oil pressure.

Other common gauges added are: air-fuel meter, exhaust gas temperature, fuel pressure, and intake temperature.

Single and double pod molded plastic A-pillar mounts are the most common mounts for gauges, and can be purchased for under $30.

Oxygen Sensor

The MR2 Turbo has an 02 sensor located in the exhaust elbow between the turbo exhaust outlet and the primary catalytic converter. The sensor helps the ECU control the air-fuel ratio. The sensor is a four-wire sensor. The 2 black wires are for the sensor heater, the white is
the 02 sensor output, and blue is the ground. Owners who install air-fuel gauge typically tap into the white and blue wires. You may want to confirm this information with other owners before proceeding as my information is not by my experience.

Water Thermostat

Stock for the Turbo is 180 degrees Fahrenheit. TRD offers a 165 degree thermostat which may be of value for those who run modified engines making a lot of heat.