My experience with removing ball joints (MKII)

[Kupop]

I thought I would share my experience with removing my front ball joints on my '93 T.

I have never done this before on any car so it was all new to me. I knew several methods of removing them and didn't think it would be difficult at all. Overall it was not difficult but I had some issues.

I have my complete control arm and strut rod off the car in one piece with the ball joint still attached.

I first attempted to use the hammer method. I removed the cotter pin and loosened the castle nut up to the top. I then placed a washer on top of the nut and started smacking it with a medium sized ball-pein hammer... didn't come out.

So I figured I would try it on my newly purchased press. The press is more than enough to push it out but getting the item in there properly so it sits level and is resting on the area between the boot and control arm was not easy. I ended up getting some metal that was laying around and I had it all setup so it should push it straight out. After beginning to apply pressure the angle iron I had (1/4" thick) started to bend... ball joint still not out.

After this I figured I would look for a price on the SST to do this. Partznet showed nothing so I searched on Google a bit to find it or others similar and didn't come across anything except a pivot type separator.

I went back into the garage and figured I would try the pickle fork. I am not a fan of these because they can easily tear the boots and my ball joints were not showing signs of needing to be replaced. Infact they were showing signs of being replaced recently.

I got the pickle fork out, and then I thought about using a 2 jaw puller instead. Put the pickle fork back and found the 2 jaw puller.

I set it up so the two jaws of the puller were inbetween the boot of the ball joint and the control arm. The push rod of the puller was then directly on top of the ball joint stud. I started to tighten it down and before you knew it the ball joint was out.

Here is a picture of how I setup the puller on the second control arm. Once in this position all you do is crank the puller down with a wrench and in seconds the ball joint is out.



I will be calling Toyota one of these days to price the SST for this, if it is too expensive for me I will just continune to do it in this manner. If anyone has recently purchased or knows the price of the SST please let me know.

[Mister2.2]

Thanks Kupop Good write up. If anyone else has any info on ball joints please post it here.

[Tyler H]

Originally Posted by Mister2.2

Thanks Kupop Good write up. If anyone else has any info on ball joints please post it here.

My ball joints were a total PITA. I tried smacking them with various implements, until the stud started to mushroom out. Broke a rental autozone 3 jaw puller on them (bent the shaft.) Bought a pickling fork, which quickly destroyed the boots, but that's about it. I finally took them to the shop along with my hubs when I was having my bearings put in and my mechanic made fun of me for not being able to get them out. He said they usually preload the LCA while its still on the car with a long prybar and then smack them with a 3lb sledge. He was making fun of me for not being able to get the balljoints apart and said he could do it in 2 seconds and I could take them with me. I said I had to see it.

He started beating on them with a shorty sledge, no dice.

Took a propane torch to them...no dice.

Got frustrated, put them in a vice and took the map torch to them (red hot and the boots were on fire) and then smacked them with a sledge.....nope.

He quietly said, "I'll have them ready by the time you pick up your bearings....." I don't know how they finally got them out.

Moral of the story. They are a pain to get out.

[Kupop]

LOL, I am really glad I didn't have the trouble you had. I kind of needed to get these out that day because over the weekend I dropped the control arms and strut rods off to be powder coated.

I would guess they used a press, or really tore them apart with various tools. They could of cut it up and drilled into the stud to make it weaker and finally break apart. My press would of pushed mine out if I had the correct plates and various pieces of metal that were strong enough to hold the force I was putting on it.

The problem with using a press is you need to figure out a way to have the item in there level and have it resting on the proper places to be able to push. With the control arm being angled and having the strut rod still attached it wasn't easy. Then of course the 1/4 angle iron had to bend.

[Ozymandias]

I tried a 3 jaw puller on my fronts. It kept sliding off when I tightened it down so I gave up. I don't think they are bad anyway. It really is a pain in the butt...be prepared for some difficulty otherwise you might get ticked off. You might get ticked off anyway.

[Kupop]

Originally Posted by Ozymandias

I tried a 3 jaw puller on my fronts. It kept sliding off when I tightened it down so I gave up.

I think a 3 jaw puller would just be a bit crowed... With the third jaw and different angles on them it seems that it wouldn't work as well. Just my opinion.

The SST is more similar to a 2 jaw puller than a 3 jaw puller.

[yikes]

I just pulled the hub out of the parts car on a mk1 rear. I had a 3 jaw el cheapo puller. To be able to get enough room for it, I had to take off the dust cover. It popped apart suddenly.

[Tyler H]

Originally Posted by yikes

I just pulled the hub out of the parts car on a mk1 rear. I had a 3 jaw el cheapo puller. To be able to get enough room for it, I had to take off the dust cover. It popped apart suddenly.

Yeah, when they go they go with a bang. I forgot to mention that I bought the SST. It is just a 2-jaw puller, but it is collared and not adjustable. I bent the drive bolt on it. Mine were abnormal. I'm glad that you can unbolt the joint from the hub for routine disassembly.

[Kupop]

How much was the SST? I forgot to ask when I last called Toyota for some parts.

[Tyler H]

I'll have to look it up. I get a pretty good price break through the TRD contingency program. I want to say it was around 40-50 bucks.

[V6'er]

Mistake #1: removing the parts from the car first.

You really need the stability and strength of the car's suspension to remove balljoints. It's very easy with a pickle fork, even if it's a very stuck part. You just need a bigger hammer. No kidding.

One thing to note when using a pickle fork is that the destruction of the boot is the least of your worries. The fork damages the top of the balljoint "socket" by crushing it down into the ball.

If your car has any appreciable miles, it could use some new balljoints, especially fronts.

[Kupop]

I guess I should update this after doing the back of the car.

After I removed everything from the car (as I did with the front, and the ball joint still attached to the control arm). I separated the control arm from the strut rod and went to use the same puller on the rear ball joints.

They did not want to come out like the front two did. I eventually got the one out with the puller after using some PB Blaster and also hitting it with a hammer a few times. The second one was just not going to come out with this puller so before I bent it I stopped.

I tried to use the hammer method again. Set the control arm on the work bench where there is a large piece of thick (1 inch or so) metal sitting on and had the ball joint off to the side. Started to hit it as hard as I could with the hammer. Still didn't come out.

Finally I just wanted to relieve some anger so I held the control arm in one hand and hit the balljoint stud just like before on the work bench. Before I knew it the ball joint flew out on the floor.

After pressing the bushings out I realized the one control arm was bent. I got both rear control arms from TylerH's clip and he was SO kind to send them with the balljoints.

Within 30 minutes I had both ball joints and bushings removed from these. I put the control arm in the vise, cut the cotter pin and removed it. Took the castle nut off and then held the control arm in one hand and hit it with a hammer in the other hand. Out in NO time.

[ramicio]

i used this ampro tool from advance to pop off my ball joints:


everything went like a breeze except getting everything back together, because everything becomes misaligned and need to be forced because of the springs pushing everything out.

[kercha83]

Hey what happens when a ball joint go bad. Does it affect the steering in any way. when i take a pretty hard left turn the car wobbles left to right. First i thought it was the steering rack and pinion and replaced it but it didnt help. Any idea what the problem might be.

[Mad Ra88it]

Originally Posted by kercha83

Hey what happens when a ball joint go bad. Does it affect the steering in any way. when i take a pretty hard left turn the car wobbles left to right. First i thought it was the steering rack and pinion and replaced it but it didnt help. Any idea what the problem might be.

OMG, i have that same issue and i've replaced the rack and pinion tooo!!!`cept its in my camry(hey now, i know i know, but at least its a v6...)

[kercha83]

Hey Mad Ra88it when your rack and pinion went out did it affect your steering and what did it do. After you replace the rack and pinion did it drive good again. I just replace a used but good rack and pinion from my friends car but it still did the same thing.

[CTD20]

All right folks

Ball joint R&R on an MK2 is a snap (and I'm no seasoned technician). First off, you go to your local Harbor Freight Tools and get yourself a pitman arm puller (sorry, don't remember the SKU#). This thing has fixed jaws that are just the perfect size for MR2 control arms . Then you soak the joints in WD-40. Next, you ditch the cotter pin and castle nut then undo the two upper bolts. Then you undo the two large nuts and bolts that hold the strut onto the hub. Grab that pitman arm puller and slide it over the end of the control arm and postion the puller stud on the ball joint stud. Grab a 19mm socket on your biggest ratchet and start cranking. The joint will separate with enough persuasion. At this point, lift the hub up and pull the old joint out. Drop the new one into position and reassemble. I had all four done and a new set of sway bars installed in 3 hours (no lift, no compressor). An alignment after you're finished wouldn't be a bad idea. I understand that worn out joints can mess with alignment settings.

[V6'er]

Nope. Using the correct pickle fork is even easier.