'93 Car Sways at 45mph+ and clunking

Sh0ty · 11-19-2009, 04:36 PM

I have a 1993 NA MKII that has moderate to severe swerving (swaying might be a better word) while driving in a straight line anywhere from 40-45 mph through top speed. I've replaced:

Struts (Koni Yellows)
Springs (Eibach Pro-kit)
Strut rod bushings (chassis to strut rod, strut rod to control arm) (Prothane)
Rear swaybar bushings and brackets (Prothane and OEM)

I've also had an alignment done and have the following values:

LF
Camber -.9
Caster 3.2
Toe .07

RF
Camber -.06
Caster 3.2
Toe .03

Cross Camber-.2
Cross Caster 0
Total Toe .10
Set Back .24

LR
Camber -1.4
Toe .33

RR
Camber -1.5
Toe .31

Total Toe .64
Thrust angle .01

I'm fairly certain the sway is in the rear, as I feel it most in the seat and the wheel has no movement (though it is 1-2 degrees to the right when driving straight) during the swaying. I don't think it's a wheel bearing, since I don't hear anything, but I do hear a severe clunking noise coming from the rear, which I suspect is a strut mount. I also get a similar if not the same clunk when shifting from odd rpms or with less precise clutch work.

Summary: Why am I swaying and what's that clunk?

Thanks for any help

328FTW · 11-19-2009, 06:45 PM

I had a loose bolt in the rear end cause this once also had a loose subframe for 100 metres once and it acted funny and clunked. Spanner check may be in order

Medusa · 11-19-2009, 11:02 PM

^Agreed.

Check bolt torques and motor/tranny mounts.

Sh0ty · 11-19-2009, 11:16 PM

Alright, I'll give everything a good turn with the torque wrench tomorrow. Could there possibly be any looseness in the axles or CV? If so, where should I check and what am I tightening?

Jason.MZW20 · 11-28-2009, 09:05 PM

I had collapsed ball joints that caused the rear sway issue for me. Causes play in the rear (on both sides) while moving. It's really nasty if you hit a lane marker.

Maruki-kun · 11-28-2009, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason.MZW20

I had collapsed ball joints that caused the rear sway issue for me. Causes play in the rear (on both sides) while moving. It's really nasty if you hit a lane marker.

x2

Archidamus-R · 11-30-2009, 07:03 PM

Tie rod ends? Front and rear?

Just did the other of my rear ball joints Sunday. Mine still "clunks" occasionally . . . Like an impact noise from the rear, sounds like driver side, but it's hard to tell. That's where I sit. :P BTW, my dad's '86 does it too, occasionally.

Also: Under power through a right-hander, with the steering wheel held steady, it feels like something "gives." The car's rate of turn seems to increase (turn tighter) to the point I have to steer back to the left to avoid hitting the inside of the curve. Once the road straightens out, I have to hold the wheel to the left of its center position. After a few yards, something "gives" again and the car jerks left and I can center the wheel again. Any ideas?

Sh0ty · 11-30-2009, 08:27 PM

Brief update, I replaced my rear ball joints, fronts are next along with the tie rod ends. I also replaced the bushing in the rear hub that connects to the rear tie rod, mine were going going gone. If you already replaced the rear BJs, try giving your end links or strut mounts some attention. The front wiggle could be front BJs or tie rod ends, that's why I'm doing mine. With the rear tightened up, I can really feel the front wiggle.

Jason.MZW20 · 12-06-2009, 10:03 PM

The strut tops will also need some attention. After 20 or so years, that rubber is totally worn, so you'll get creaking and clunking as the strut travels. The strut tops serve as a means to cushion the stroke of the strut and spring tension against the chassis. They're not cheap though.

My TRD suspension bushing kit came with them for $299, but if you buy all 4 separately, it'll come out to nearly the same price without all of the bushings in the kit. Ouch.

PinkTaco · 12-11-2009, 06:41 PM

shake your rear and front wheels down (up and down and side to side) to see if theres any play. If everything seems stiff check your sway bar end link pins there like mini ball joints that connect to the sway bar and the strut see if those are bad you can grab them shake em around to see if you feel any play.

Sh0ty · 12-12-2009, 01:26 AM

Nah, sway end links are fine, just needed balljoints. Thanks though

11-19-2009, 04:36 PM	#1 (permalink)
Sh0ty Armchair Racer Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Novi, MI Posts: 1,273 Thanks: 22 Thanked 57 Times in 54 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	'93 Car Sways at 45mph+ and clunking I have a 1993 NA MKII that has moderate to severe swerving (swaying might be a better word) while driving in a straight line anywhere from 40-45 mph through top speed. I've replaced: Struts (Koni Yellows) Springs (Eibach Pro-kit) Strut rod bushings (chassis to strut rod, strut rod to control arm) (Prothane) Rear swaybar bushings and brackets (Prothane and OEM) I've also had an alignment done and have the following values: LF Camber -.9 Caster 3.2 Toe .07 RF Camber -.06 Caster 3.2 Toe .03 Cross Camber-.2 Cross Caster 0 Total Toe .10 Set Back .24 LR Camber -1.4 Toe .33 RR Camber -1.5 Toe .31 Total Toe .64 Thrust angle .01 I'm fairly certain the sway is in the rear, as I feel it most in the seat and the wheel has no movement (though it is 1-2 degrees to the right when driving straight) during the swaying. I don't think it's a wheel bearing, since I don't hear anything, but I do hear a severe clunking noise coming from the rear, which I suspect is a strut mount. I also get a similar if not the same clunk when shifting from odd rpms or with less precise clutch work. Summary: Why am I swaying and what's that clunk? Thanks for any help

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11-19-2009, 06:45 PM	#2 (permalink)
328FTW Crazy Nasty Honey Badger Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,236 Thanks: 24 Thanked 266 Times in 239 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I had a loose bolt in the rear end cause this once also had a loose subframe for 100 metres once and it acted funny and clunked. Spanner check may be in order

11-19-2009, 11:02 PM	#3 (permalink)
Medusa HAY GUISE! Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Reno, NV Posts: 752 Thanks: 9 Thanked 18 Times in 17 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	^Agreed. Check bolt torques and motor/tranny mounts.

11-19-2009, 11:16 PM	#4 (permalink)
Sh0ty Armchair Racer Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Novi, MI Posts: 1,273 Thanks: 22 Thanked 57 Times in 54 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Alright, I'll give everything a good turn with the torque wrench tomorrow. Could there possibly be any looseness in the axles or CV? If so, where should I check and what am I tightening?

11-28-2009, 09:05 PM	#5 (permalink)
Jason.MZW20 Pig Snout Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Victorville, CA Posts: 1,373 Thanks: 15 Thanked 111 Times in 102 Posts Blog Entries: 6 iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	I had collapsed ball joints that caused the rear sway issue for me. Causes play in the rear (on both sides) while moving. It's really nasty if you hit a lane marker.

11-30-2009, 07:03 PM	#7 (permalink)
Archidamus-R Make it so. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: SW-MO Posts: 660 Thanks: 17 Thanked 12 Times in 11 Posts iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Tie rod ends? Front and rear? Just did the other of my rear ball joints Sunday. Mine still "clunks" occasionally . . . Like an impact noise from the rear, sounds like driver side, but it's hard to tell. That's where I sit. :P BTW, my dad's '86 does it too, occasionally. Also: Under power through a right-hander, with the steering wheel held steady, it feels like something "gives." The car's rate of turn seems to increase (turn tighter) to the point I have to steer back to the left to avoid hitting the inside of the curve. Once the road straightens out, I have to hold the wheel to the left of its center position. After a few yards, something "gives" again and the car jerks left and I can center the wheel again. Any ideas?

11-30-2009, 08:27 PM	#8 (permalink)
Sh0ty Armchair Racer Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Novi, MI Posts: 1,273 Thanks: 22 Thanked 57 Times in 54 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Brief update, I replaced my rear ball joints, fronts are next along with the tie rod ends. I also replaced the bushing in the rear hub that connects to the rear tie rod, mine were going going gone. If you already replaced the rear BJs, try giving your end links or strut mounts some attention. The front wiggle could be front BJs or tie rod ends, that's why I'm doing mine. With the rear tightened up, I can really feel the front wiggle.

12-06-2009, 10:03 PM	#9 (permalink)
Jason.MZW20 Pig Snout Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Victorville, CA Posts: 1,373 Thanks: 15 Thanked 111 Times in 102 Posts Blog Entries: 6 iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	The strut tops will also need some attention. After 20 or so years, that rubber is totally worn, so you'll get creaking and clunking as the strut travels. The strut tops serve as a means to cushion the stroke of the strut and spring tension against the chassis. They're not cheap though. My TRD suspension bushing kit came with them for $299, but if you buy all 4 separately, it'll come out to nearly the same price without all of the bushings in the kit. Ouch.

12-11-2009, 06:41 PM	#10 (permalink)
PinkTaco No Skills Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 20 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	shake your rear and front wheels down (up and down and side to side) to see if theres any play. If everything seems stiff check your sway bar end link pins there like mini ball joints that connect to the sway bar and the strut see if those are bad you can grab them shake em around to see if you feel any play.

12-12-2009, 01:26 AM	#11 (permalink)
Sh0ty Armchair Racer Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Novi, MI Posts: 1,273 Thanks: 22 Thanked 57 Times in 54 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Nah, sway end links are fine, just needed balljoints. Thanks though