FPR question

mr2slow4you · 04-17-2006, 10:31 PM

I am going to be running a wolfkatz side feed rail with 800cc injectors, and using an aem ems for tunning. Will I need to have an aftermarket FPR, or just use the stock one? I was under the impression the stock one would be acceptable.

Enthalpy · 04-17-2006, 11:41 PM

It depends on the pump you use. If you go walbro or Supra, use the stock regulator and you will be fine. If you go for a pump that flows more, then you need a regulator that will flow more.

800 injectors are low-impedance (verify this before believing me by measuring the injector's resistance). Make sure you use a ballast resistor in the circuit or you will blow that AEM EMS. The AEM does not have peak/hold injector drivers like the Nemesis does.

Also, you might have a difficult time finding the injector offset curve for that injector setup. If so, drop me a line and I will show you a neat trick.

mr2slow4you · 04-17-2006, 11:45 PM

I bought these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT

In the ad they say they are High Impedance. Is there anything I need to tell the tuner or make them aware of prior to dropping the car off? Also, will I be able to safely drive 6 hrs to the tunner on a base map?

91T_SW20 · 04-17-2006, 11:48 PM

[QUOTE=mr2slow4you]I bought these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT

In the ad they say they are High Impedance. Is there anything I need to tell the tuner or make them aware of prior to dropping the car off? Also, will I be able to safely drive 6 hrs to the tunner on a base map?[/QUOTE]

I wouldn't risk driving that long on a base map but thats just me. Even if you don't hit boost.

I would personally tow it, if thats how far the tuner is. Put it on a flat bed and along we go

Enthalpy · 04-18-2006, 10:18 AM

The ebay guy could be on crack. 850 cc injectors from SARD ARE high-impedance, but the 800s are low.

It doesn't really matter. You can test them when you get them. If the resistance across the injector's terminals is 2.5 ohms or so, then use the resistor box. If it is 12 ohms or more, then ditch the resistor box and solder all the resistor leads together.

As for driving on a base map, your tuner should have some AEM maps that should work already.

mr2slow4you · 04-18-2006, 11:23 AM

I am a total noob when it comes to the tunning aspect of my vehicle...

How much is a resistor box, where can I get, and how do I install it? Also, what do you mean by solder all the resistor leads together?

91T_SW20 · 04-18-2006, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr2slow4you

I am a total noob when it comes to the tunning aspect of my vehicle...

How much is a resistor box, where can I get, and how do I install it? Also, what do you mean by solder all the resistor leads together?

Solder means to like "weld" it together. BUT be very careful when letting someone solder stuff in your car when it deals with fuel or ECU lines.

My Rsx just burned up last month minutes of leaving an eletrical shop who saudered wiring from my injectors and my ecu.

mr2slow4you · 04-18-2006, 04:05 PM

I know what solder means, I had to solder 30+ wires for my engine swap.

I was referring to the fact that I was unsure what he meant by soldering the resistor leads together.

Enthalpy · 04-19-2006, 12:23 PM

The injector resistor pack is already there in the stock car. If your leads measure 2.5 ohms or there-abouts, then simply plug in the injectors and tune your AEM without touching the resistor pack.

This resistor pack is located on the rear wall of the engine bay on the driver's side. It has heat sink fins. There are actually 2 resistor packs, and the other one is for the fuel pump. The one I'm talking about has 5 leads, not 2.

If you have high-impedance (12 ohms or more as measured right on the injector pins) injectors, then take out the 5-pin resistor pack and take those 5 pins and solder them together. Be careful here! If you do this wrong, your car won't get fuel or maybe one cylinder won't get fuel. Make sure you insulate it well and do nice solder joints.

mr2slow4you · 04-19-2006, 02:07 PM

^Thank you!

Could you by chance explain in depth the process if I have high-impedance injectors?

Enthalpy · 04-19-2006, 06:42 PM

Sure. There are 5 wires that go into one of the resistor packs that have a heat sink.

Cut off the connector on the resistor pack side (so you can save your car's connector if you ever want to put it back to stock). Strip about 1/4-1/2" of insulation on all of them. Clean them and twist them together really tight. Then, while being patient, solder them all together at the twist. You will have to be patient as that big of a bundle will take awhile for the solder to penetrate. Make sure to use flux-cored electrical solder and an iron hot enough to do the job.

Then, either E-tape it together, or what's preferred is heat-shrink tubing. You can lay a bread wrapper twist tie around the wires between the solder joint and the resistor connector. This will provide something for the heat shrink to grab onto. Allow enough on the other side so nothing will get in. You don't want this bundle touching chassis ground or it will turn on all injectors full blast! At idle, that could hydrolock the engine with injectors that big!

Weasy2k · 04-19-2006, 06:59 PM

good info guys...do you mind if i move this to EFI Corner when your done?
I hope to get more traffic in there

Thanks!

Enthalpy · 04-19-2006, 07:15 PM

Sure, go ahead and move it.

mr2slow4you · 04-19-2006, 07:25 PM

Besides installing the: fuel rail, walbro intank pump, injectors, turbo kit, ems, boost gauge, eventually water injection, better intercooler; Is there anything else I am leaving off that I will need to install?

Weasy2k · 04-19-2006, 08:51 PM

NOOOZZZZZZZZZZ

mr2slow4you · 04-19-2006, 09:38 PM

you mean NAAAWWZZZ

But seriously, is there something I'm for getting? lol

mr2slow4you · 04-20-2006, 07:12 PM

Enthalpy, It turns out that the injectors are High Impedance; They measured between 10 and 12 ohms. So, I guess this means that I have to modify the resistor box? I am glad you posted because, no one else seemed to know that high impedance would damage the aem.

Enthalpy · 04-20-2006, 07:59 PM

High impedance won't damage the AEM. You just won't have injector offset maps for them, and you will have a HELL of a time getting them to idle.

What will damage the AEM is too LITTLE circuit resistance. If they measure 2.5 ohms and you remove the resistor box, the you will hear a pop the first time you start the car on the EMS. No, I don't know this first-hand, but I've blown electronics before.

So for the sake of your idle and offset map, do the resistor mod. For the sake of returning it to stock in the future, only cut on the resistor's side of the plug.

04-17-2006, 10:31 PM	#1 (permalink)
mr2slow4you ME out of training :) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Clemmons, NC Posts: 2,336 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	FPR question I am going to be running a wolfkatz side feed rail with 800cc injectors, and using an aem ems for tunning. Will I need to have an aftermarket FPR, or just use the stock one? I was under the impression the stock one would be acceptable.

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04-17-2006, 11:41 PM	#2 (permalink)
Enthalpy EMS Harmonizer Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,226 Thanks: 8 Thanked 55 Times in 43 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	It depends on the pump you use. If you go walbro or Supra, use the stock regulator and you will be fine. If you go for a pump that flows more, then you need a regulator that will flow more. 800 injectors are low-impedance (verify this before believing me by measuring the injector's resistance). Make sure you use a ballast resistor in the circuit or you will blow that AEM EMS. The AEM does not have peak/hold injector drivers like the Nemesis does. Also, you might have a difficult time finding the injector offset curve for that injector setup. If so, drop me a line and I will show you a neat trick.

04-17-2006, 11:45 PM	#3 (permalink)
mr2slow4you ME out of training :) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Clemmons, NC Posts: 2,336 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I bought these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT In the ad they say they are High Impedance. Is there anything I need to tell the tuner or make them aware of prior to dropping the car off? Also, will I be able to safely drive 6 hrs to the tunner on a base map?

04-17-2006, 11:48 PM	#4 (permalink)
91T_SW20 Midship Runabout Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: NorCal Posts: 591 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	[QUOTE=mr2slow4you]I bought these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT In the ad they say they are High Impedance. Is there anything I need to tell the tuner or make them aware of prior to dropping the car off? Also, will I be able to safely drive 6 hrs to the tunner on a base map?[/QUOTE] I wouldn't risk driving that long on a base map but thats just me. Even if you don't hit boost. I would personally tow it, if thats how far the tuner is. Put it on a flat bed and along we go

04-18-2006, 10:18 AM	#5 (permalink)
Enthalpy EMS Harmonizer Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,226 Thanks: 8 Thanked 55 Times in 43 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	The ebay guy could be on crack. 850 cc injectors from SARD ARE high-impedance, but the 800s are low. It doesn't really matter. You can test them when you get them. If the resistance across the injector's terminals is 2.5 ohms or so, then use the resistor box. If it is 12 ohms or more, then ditch the resistor box and solder all the resistor leads together. As for driving on a base map, your tuner should have some AEM maps that should work already.

04-18-2006, 11:23 AM	#6 (permalink)
mr2slow4you ME out of training :) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Clemmons, NC Posts: 2,336 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I am a total noob when it comes to the tunning aspect of my vehicle... How much is a resistor box, where can I get, and how do I install it? Also, what do you mean by solder all the resistor leads together?

04-18-2006, 04:05 PM	#8 (permalink)
mr2slow4you ME out of training :) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Clemmons, NC Posts: 2,336 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I know what solder means, I had to solder 30+ wires for my engine swap. I was referring to the fact that I was unsure what he meant by soldering the resistor leads together.

04-19-2006, 12:23 PM	#9 (permalink)
Enthalpy EMS Harmonizer Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,226 Thanks: 8 Thanked 55 Times in 43 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	The injector resistor pack is already there in the stock car. If your leads measure 2.5 ohms or there-abouts, then simply plug in the injectors and tune your AEM without touching the resistor pack. This resistor pack is located on the rear wall of the engine bay on the driver's side. It has heat sink fins. There are actually 2 resistor packs, and the other one is for the fuel pump. The one I'm talking about has 5 leads, not 2. If you have high-impedance (12 ohms or more as measured right on the injector pins) injectors, then take out the 5-pin resistor pack and take those 5 pins and solder them together. Be careful here! If you do this wrong, your car won't get fuel or maybe one cylinder won't get fuel. Make sure you insulate it well and do nice solder joints.

04-19-2006, 02:07 PM	#10 (permalink)
mr2slow4you ME out of training :) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Clemmons, NC Posts: 2,336 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	^Thank you! Could you by chance explain in depth the process if I have high-impedance injectors?

04-19-2006, 06:42 PM	#11 (permalink)
Enthalpy EMS Harmonizer Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,226 Thanks: 8 Thanked 55 Times in 43 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Sure. There are 5 wires that go into one of the resistor packs that have a heat sink. Cut off the connector on the resistor pack side (so you can save your car's connector if you ever want to put it back to stock). Strip about 1/4-1/2" of insulation on all of them. Clean them and twist them together really tight. Then, while being patient, solder them all together at the twist. You will have to be patient as that big of a bundle will take awhile for the solder to penetrate. Make sure to use flux-cored electrical solder and an iron hot enough to do the job. Then, either E-tape it together, or what's preferred is heat-shrink tubing. You can lay a bread wrapper twist tie around the wires between the solder joint and the resistor connector. This will provide something for the heat shrink to grab onto. Allow enough on the other side so nothing will get in. You don't want this bundle touching chassis ground or it will turn on all injectors full blast! At idle, that could hydrolock the engine with injectors that big!

04-19-2006, 06:59 PM	#12 (permalink)
Weasy2k What is an MR2? Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 8,891 Thanks: 33 Thanked 82 Times in 68 Posts iTrader Rating: (9/100% )	good info guys...do you mind if i move this to EFI Corner when your done? I hope to get more traffic in there Thanks!

04-19-2006, 07:15 PM	#13 (permalink)
Enthalpy EMS Harmonizer Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,226 Thanks: 8 Thanked 55 Times in 43 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Sure, go ahead and move it.

04-19-2006, 07:25 PM	#14 (permalink)
mr2slow4you ME out of training :) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Clemmons, NC Posts: 2,336 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Besides installing the: fuel rail, walbro intank pump, injectors, turbo kit, ems, boost gauge, eventually water injection, better intercooler; Is there anything else I am leaving off that I will need to install?

04-19-2006, 08:51 PM	#15 (permalink)
Weasy2k What is an MR2? Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 8,891 Thanks: 33 Thanked 82 Times in 68 Posts iTrader Rating: (9/100% )	NOOOZZZZZZZZZZ

04-19-2006, 09:38 PM	#16 (permalink)
mr2slow4you ME out of training :) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Clemmons, NC Posts: 2,336 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	you mean NAAAWWZZZ But seriously, is there something I'm for getting? lol

04-20-2006, 07:12 PM	#17 (permalink)
mr2slow4you ME out of training :) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Clemmons, NC Posts: 2,336 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Enthalpy, It turns out that the injectors are High Impedance; They measured between 10 and 12 ohms. So, I guess this means that I have to modify the resistor box? I am glad you posted because, no one else seemed to know that high impedance would damage the aem.

04-20-2006, 07:59 PM	#18 (permalink)
Enthalpy EMS Harmonizer Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,226 Thanks: 8 Thanked 55 Times in 43 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	High impedance won't damage the AEM. You just won't have injector offset maps for them, and you will have a HELL of a time getting them to idle. What will damage the AEM is too LITTLE circuit resistance. If they measure 2.5 ohms and you remove the resistor box, the you will hear a pop the first time you start the car on the EMS. No, I don't know this first-hand, but I've blown electronics before. So for the sake of your idle and offset map, do the resistor mod. For the sake of returning it to stock in the future, only cut on the resistor's side of the plug.