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MK 2 MR2 - SW20 Discussion and tech for 90-99 SW20 MR2. 3S-GTE, 3S-GE, 3S-FE, 5S-FE.

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Old 08-27-2010, 10:12 AM   #21 (permalink)
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the washer looking part at the end of the inner housing, mine was like that too. Did the same thing, i now have no leaks.

Just 1 other issue. LOL how many times have i said that now?
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Old 08-27-2010, 12:14 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
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all we did was tap where the metal had been taped out and taped it back where it needed to be, to cover the seal. it was on the half axle/shaft, going into the tranny, but just the outside casing? i guess i should say was tapped out, we could see the seal frm wher eit was leaking.
Ohhhhh. When you said you tried some leak seal I was under the impression that you were using some sort of oil additive.
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Old 08-28-2010, 03:17 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Ohhhhh. When you said you tried some leak seal I was under the impression that you were using some sort of oil additive.
we are trying that too. We did add some oil addtive and according to the bottle it is safe for all transmission types except for the CVT type transmissions. the bottle says what it did was make the seals like the actuall oil seals inflame or something like that and that would make it stop leaking because after a while seals shrink and get brittel, so it does the oppsite of course... I hope im making sense.
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Old 08-28-2010, 03:22 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Never used it but it makes sense to me, id just rather replace what i need. thats just me.
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Old 08-28-2010, 11:12 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Never used it but it makes sense to me, id just rather replace what i need. thats just me.
Yea, but since im not sure which seal is leaking, and one seal cost 15 dollars and the other cost 45... and the fact i wont know which seal it is unless i take it apart, i sorta want to wait. Its my only car and i cant afford, nor have the time to do that. so other options are sorta needed you know?
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Old 09-01-2010, 02:47 AM   #26 (permalink)
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If you ever If you ever flush the tranny fluid again make sure you add more of that stuff or it will leak like a sieve. It's the same as high mileage oils, the additives swell the seals up but will leach out and deflate the seals again if you put in a standard oil.
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:41 PM   #27 (permalink)
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thanks for the tip man, does it have to be the same stuff, or lets say, i had some high mileage stuff instead of the leak sealer stuff, would it be alright just to add that, or would i have to still add the leak sealer to that too?
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:46 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Re: Help, Oil leak from trans axle

That depends on how it works. You could try it; be ready to replace the leaking seals though.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:40 PM   #29 (permalink)
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That depends on how it works. You could try it; be ready to replace the leaking seals though.
Ok, I will. Thanks for the help. Though anyone have any actual instructions, with pics if you can, and show me? I mean to replace the seals...
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:27 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I have instructions right now if you want, i can snap some pics to point it all out this weekend.
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:36 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
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yea thats what I did last time to check it, but i need to know or find a palce that sells them. the orginal owner tryed to open up and rounded the edges off the bolt, so now i have to tap it out, and tap it back in untill i can find a place that seals them. the drainage bolt though is in good shape.
There might be a fasteners shop around you, not sure, but the most you may end up needing is a larger diameter "plug" and a tap for that plug, drill and tap the holes if you need to, or of course try an just replace what you have and see if it works, but you say you have to tap the plug back in so i wouldnt doubt if those threads are toast.
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:59 PM   #32 (permalink)
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There might be a fasteners shop around you, not sure, but the most you may end up needing is a larger diameter "plug" and a tap for that plug, drill and tap the holes if you need to, or of course try an just replace what you have and see if it works, but you say you have to tap the plug back in so i wouldnt doubt if those threads are toast.
What i meant was that the bolt head was buggered up, not the actual threads, sorry for the misinterpretation... but in order for me to get it out, i have to get a hammer, and a screw driver, or something that has a screw driver type head, a regular screwdriver, not a Philips, and place the edge of the screw driver to the bolt head into the "buggered " spots on the bolt head and tap the other end of the screwdriver, the handle part with a hammer to loosen it, and to tighten it. more of a hassle than anything...
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:04 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Ok, I will. Thanks for the help. Though anyone have any actual instructions, with pics if you can, and show me? I mean to replace the seals...
Jack up the rear, use stands too, get the jack out of the way.(spray lube on nuts and bolts at the beginning of each step)

Take off the rear wheels,

Loosen the big axle nut in the middle of the brake rotor, You may need a long prybar to hold the unit from rotating why you try to heave those things off.

Now the large rod that points front to back just past the wheel well on the front side. It connects the body to the lower control arm.Take that off, remove the rear most nut on it first then the nut and bolt up front.

Remove the cotterpin and castle nut at the outer end of the lower control arm, use a puller and pull the arm from that bolt, let it swing down.

remove the bolt going through the rearmost stabilizer and rear part of the axle /brake housing.

I also pull off the housing unit, 2 bolts in the back of the caliper and 2 bolts holding the unit to the strut.

Tap the axle lighly while pulling the unit off (i put a pad down to protect the axle, then pry it out use a rag like it is a fulcrum then pry against the housing part of the axle, maybe some hammer blows at the bottom of your pry bar. She should come out.

Use a large screw driver or small prybar and pry the seal out.

Find a socket large enough for the lip of the seal to fit in. Use the socket to tap the seal in.

Replace the axle clip on the inner shaft(goes into the tranny)

put it all together.

Its pretty simple, i just followed the MR2-Tech.com - BGB
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:05 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I have instructions right now if you want, i can snap some pics to point it all out this weekend.
Man, that would be awesome if ya did, and i would greatly appercaite it. amd iof its not too much hassle about the pictures... those would be great too.

once again thanks!
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:08 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArashiShozen View Post
What i meant was that the bolt head was buggered up, not the actual threads, sorry for the misinterpretation... but in order for me to get it out, i have to get a hammer, and a screw driver, or something that has a screw driver type head, a regular screwdriver, not a Philips, and place the edge of the screw driver to the bolt head into the "buggered " spots on the bolt head and tap the other end of the screwdriver, the handle part with a hammer to loosen it, and to tighten it. more of a hassle than anything...
oooo, that sucks, well thats better than making a larger hole. Just replace the plug with something similar that works. May take a try or two. Or you could buy it from toyota itself. I reccommend Aaron at this forums sponsor, he elps me alot an never a problem.
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:30 PM   #36 (permalink)
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oooo, that sucks, well thats better than making a larger hole. Just replace the plug with something similar that works. May take a try or two. Or you could buy it from toyota itself. I reccommend Aaron at this forums sponsor, he elps me alot an never a problem.
Im going to take the bolt to "Ace Hardware" to see if they have a version of it. and ok, if i ever need to get something i cant find here, il talk to him due to your reference, i greatly appreciate all this help.
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