R-12 to R134 - Page 4

gussuk · 09-22-2008, 02:07 AM

Thanks guys for the comments.
Tom I realize I'm very late on this conversion but if it isn't broke don't fix it.
CyFi, I can't remember if it was in this thread or not but I read somewhere that Toyota reduced the load somehow on the compressor as customers were complaining about power loss. When the car was new I took it to the dealer because the A/C didn't seem to have a very cold output. They told me it was doing what it was designed for. Either way I would kind of like it to be a little colder. I haven't heard of anyone complaining about moisture in the air freezing on the cooling unit.
Tom, as for the UTube video above, if nothing else the guy was pretty stupid to be sitting in the car when he struck the match. I understand the ES-12a has a pine scent added
I'm still wondering if the hoses are long enough to turn the compressor and remove/replace the clutch without removing the gas.

CyFi · 09-22-2008, 02:14 AM

get yourself a pocket thermometer and pop it in the vent, your vent temps should be somewhere between 35-50 degrees F

Spyderdan · 02-24-2009, 11:00 PM

Its been almost 2 years now that I've been running ES-12a and the A/C is still running great.

I ordered a second kit for the white MR2 that I picked up recently and it looks like the enviro-safe kit now comes with a black light along with a thermometer. This round I ordered the kit that included the gauge and valve that connects directly to the r12 fitting on the car so it doesn't require an adapter. My first kit had a 134a end on the gauge and came with adapter fittings that screwed onto the cars r12 port.

For $50 dollars shipped it can't be beat:
eBay Motors: R-12/R-134a Enviro-Safe Alternate A/C Recharge Kit-R12 (item 390020145758 end time Feb-26-09 04:27:06 PST)

TonyHuynhTwo · 05-21-2009, 09:14 AM

I just retrofitted my r-12 system took like five minutes and now my a/c is working fine. A lot of local a/c specialty shops will vacum out your system for free as long as they can keep the r-12 (you gotta call around). Although r-12 and r-134 will turn into a solid when mixed, you don't have to have your system completely flushed out with alchohol or nitrogen if you have it vacumed out. The amount of solid material left in your system would be ridiculously tiny and be concentrated near the leaks in the system plugging them up (as long as your running the car and air conditioner while your doing the retrofit, like you should). The retrofit kit comes with everything you need to be blowing cold the refrigerant, oil, recharging hose, port adapters, and idiot proof instructions. As for the ES refrigerant stuff I honestly have no experience dealing with it, but since the a/c specialist at the place I went to won't even deal with it I'm not going to touch the stuff even if it might blow a couple of degrees colder. My r-134a converted system blows cold and thank god has no leaks. At a cost of just $35, I'm a pretty satisfied customer.

TomsMR2 · 06-22-2009, 05:34 AM

the solvent flush is to remove the oil necessary for R12. the vacuum pulled is to boil out water, and remove all the air. the conversion kits use conversion ester oil, which isnt fantastic, but works.

it gets 100 F in summer here, and im very comfortable in my R134a mr2. my other mr2 i had to kick the fan down a notch because it was too damn cold after a while! i think mine has an excess oil charge or it would be freezing cold too.

my R134 will freeze your balls off.. why pump flammable, dangerous stuff into your car? not to mention no one will service or touch a car with substitute refrigerant in it.

its been 7 years on my conversion, and its running great

how many times do you mind bursting into flames? i prefer zero.

Spyderdan · 06-22-2009, 11:10 AM

Yeah flames are cool! (said with Bevis and Butthead voice)

nicoledc109 · 07-15-2010, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baktasht

Gen2 compressor...

Here is a step by step of what I did, most of it was recommended to me by my uncle who is retired bmw master mechanic.

* I replaced my condensor, evaporator, o-rings, and compressor with all new parts from toyota. in addition to the o-rings where the lines connect to the compressor I also used that copper gasket maker stuff too. I was told to use it on the flat metal surfaces that touch the compressor housing, and to NOT let it get on the O-rings when i'm applying it (some will get on them after you tighten them down). Make sure it's a very very thin layer that barely covers the metal surface. Tighten everyting down...

* Use a vacuum pump on the low-pressure side connector (on a USDM car that's the one toward the passenger side of the car). Leave the vacuum pump connected and on for about 20 minutes. Then remove it and connect a A/C pressure guage to the low-pressure port to see how much vacuum you're getting. It should be around 30 psi of vacuum. If it's less, connect the vacuum pump again and let it run, then check the pressure again until you have around 30 psi of vacuum. DO ALL OF THIS WITH THE CAR OFF AND NOT RUNNING.

* Now that you have vacuum'd your system, leave the pressure guage connected to the low-pressure side, and note the exact pressure reading. Leave it connected for about 1.5 - 2 hours (still with the car OFF and NOT running). After about 2 hours check the pressure reading. If the pressure has fallen then you have a leak in your system. If not then you are ready to fill with R12 or R134 (or substitute). If the pressure falls quickly you know you have a big leak and something is probably not connected or seated properly. If the pressure falls slowly then you have a small leak somewhere that is going to be a pain in the *** to track down (but nevertheless needs to be tracked down and fixed, otherwise the system won't hold the gas for very logn and you'll just be wasting money by filling it up).

* If you have good pressure still, and no signs of leaks. Now you're ready to fill the system up with your choice of R12 or R134. If you have a Low/High automobile air conditioner pressure guage set, then connect the HI (red) guage to the high side of your system (the connector on the driver side). If you don't have a pressure guage set, no worries...

* Take your first can of R12/R134, shake it up really good for 30 - 60 seconds. Connect your can of gas and your lines to the LOW PRESSURE side. Start the car and turn the A/C on and all the way to the cold side, and make sure the fan is on high.

* Now if you have some kind of a trigger or valve to open to let the gas flow into the system, now is the time to open it up and let the gas flow. Let the gas flow, while giving the can a good shaking about every 60 seconds. When the can feels empty disconnect the can/lines to the low pressure side. Make sure you disconnect the line first... and then the can (unless you have some sort of an on/off valve, otherwise you'll let air into the system or you'll let gas out). Now shake up the next can, and connect it... etc....

* Keep filling the system until your pressure guage connected to the low side reads around 35 psi (or the high pressure side reads around 140-150 psi). If you do not have a pressure guage set, use the one that came with your cans/filling lines. If they did not come with one either then don't even attempt this until you get at the very least a pressure guage to fit to the low-pressure side.

* So this whole time the car has been on and running, with the A/C on COLD and the fan on HIGH. By the time you get around 35psi of pressure on the low pressure side you should start feeling cold air coming through the vents. If you don't then something is wrong. Make sure the compressor clutch is kicking on when you turn the A/C on. You should hear it click on, or you should see the RPM drop/rise when you turn off/on the A/C. If this is not happening then something is wrong that the compressor clutch is not activating. And that's a whole other can of worms

Thanks you for the post.

Chromo · 08-27-2010, 08:02 AM

Cool Post, pardon the pun LOL

I learned allot I think.

Well for what it's worth, mostly nothing, here goes.

If something works well I don't care if it is flammable.
Think about it! REALLY think about it!
We have front engine cars with fuel pumps in the rear tank! What is more flammable than 5gals of gas soaking the liner under the hood from some tiny hose leak under 60psi??
Been there done that, open hood and gas ran out of liner like a sponge taken out of a bucket of water. Lucky there was not a spark plug wire arcing out, BOOM! But that is the way cars are made! Not to worried here about a little coolant to deal with.

Ever had a leak in line under a car, I have several times, pump in tank just sprays gas forever till you notice you went through about 5 gals in 20 miles! Well you probably smell it before that, hope you are not lighting a cigarette at the time! Yep happened here several times, aren't in the tank pumps so great? All I did was make a mess and loose money on wasted gas, luckily for me and family!

Motor home has a propane stove and furnace in it. Hmm, also has an engine between the seats with rubber gas lines flowing gas!

Gas lines in houses for stoves, water heaters, furnaces, etc...

Yep. I would be really scared of having flammable gas in my cooling system, Gee if there was ever a leak it might be 1/10 as bad as what we already put up with like gasoline leaks!! And think of what high volume it would be compared to unlimited natural gas lines or a 500gal propane tank feeding our homes.
Oh the sheer danger of it all, or should I say paranoia?

What works best or equal to the best is what I worry about, flammable is least of my concerns figuring all the other more likely ways of blowing ones self up.

CJMR2T · 08-27-2010, 07:13 PM

^^^ for starters, liquid gasoline is actually not very flammable, its the vapors that are so volatile.

The reason why flammable refrigerants are dangerous and shouldn't be used is cause a leak can occur within the passenger compartment from the evaporator. This brings the danger directly to you....

Back to a fuel leak and fire... there's a reason why we have things called (wait for it!!!!!!) FIREWALLS (something you don't have in the event of a evap leak and an ignition source)....

Propane actually makes for a really good refrigerate too but you dont see people using it!! Why?, cause its extremely dangerous...

R134 works great if the system is in good working order and if converted, done correctly. Two weeks ago I put the AC back in my girls mr2 and converted it to R134. With ambient temp at 98.4°f and humidity at 100% (central Florida sucks), with control set to record, the vent temps while idling in traffic were at a steady 41.6°F and at a 45mph cruise, they were at a steady 33.9°F. All temp measurements were taken with a K-type thermocouple being read by my Fluke 88 DVM so I know they are dead accurate (within .1°).

Slow_Polk · 08-28-2010, 09:36 PM

Does anyone have a recommendation for an O-ring kit? I'm trying to put my system back together and I'd like to replace all the o-rings while it's apart.

CJMR2T · 08-28-2010, 10:12 PM

^^^ Most autoparts stores sell complete O-ring kits... I picked one up from Advanced Auto parts 2 weeks ago when I put the AC back in my girls car. It was like $10 and comes with all and then some (covers many toyota cars thus the reason for extras).

Marvin Lee · 08-07-2011, 09:31 PM

Since this thread was last done over a year ago I wanted to bring it into 2011 standards. Autozone and Advanced both sell a complete retrofit kit that will change your R12 to the current R134a standard. Both charge $54.99 plus tax no matter where you go. I bought the one at Autozone because... I was at Autozone but if I had to choose I'd go with the kit supplied by Advanced Auto mainly because it comes with an instructional DVD, so you won't have to do what I did and look up various DVD's from youtube.

The temperature has been around 95 degrees F plus high humidity and the kit works so well that I did something I've never done in my MR@ turbo and that is actually turn the temp up because I was getting too cold! I've read the old post on this thread and all I can say is if R134a can't get you cool in that little cockpit of a car than you are living in HELL! But this thread goes back to 2006 so maybe by now they have perfected the system because all the oils and sealants and mixed into the cans so you don't have to worry about doing any other procedures or changing out ANYTHING! Just add the retrofit nozzles, wait 10 min. for each to seal and start adding R134a. That's it.

I do want to mention one thing that worried the hell out of me on when I tried to find out how to make the R12 to R123a conversion.

1. NO ONE said where the damn low and high nozzles were! I guess it was assumes that we all knew that and had downloaded the service manual so for those of you who didn't let me add a pre-quil to that otherwise gread "How To" at the beginning of the thread.

To GET TO the low and High nozzle.

1. Lift the front hood.
2. Remove spare tire, and took kit.
3. Remove black shroud that is behind the tire and hiding all the A/C stuff. (There are 4 retainer clips that are holding the shroud.
4. NOW you can see the parts that are listed on the service manual pg. AC-13
5. As stated earlier the service manual is WRONG the low side in on the passenger side and has a black plastic cap holding it.
6. The HIGH side is on the drivers side located down low and has a red brick colored plastic cap on it.

Follow the instructions that come with the kits from autozone or Advanced Auto.

I do want to mention that this is for people who'c car's A/C system still works and just doesn't blow cold enough. If your system isn't in this condition then don't waste your money on the $60.00 and just take it to a trusted professional.

dragraceman21 · 08-07-2011, 09:48 PM

wow this is an old thread, but since we have brought it back to life lets get things up to date. First of all R-134a is on the way out just like R-12 its being replaced and they are going to stop manufacuring it in a year or so. Im not completely sure but I think the replacement is called 13b, but dont quote me on that.

Back to the problem at hand, what to do with the a/c, easy its called "Freeze 12" and as I understand it, it's 50 state legal and should be avalible at any of your local parts stores. Im now the service manager for a classic car dealership and all of the cars we sell were R-12 systems, we use this stuff by the case and it seems to work even better than the R-134a as far as cooling efficantcy. the really good news is its CFC free and doesnt require a licsence to buy or install it and its 100% compatable with R-12 systems with NO conversion.

ennacac · 08-08-2011, 11:24 AM

FWIW, the R-134a retrofit kits are not legal to sell in WI, but in MN they are everywhere, so that is where I purchased mine. I have converted 2 vehicles so far (91 Miata, 89 Pathfinder) and they are all blowing cold after 3 years with no issues.

I had the R-12 suctioned out, put in the R-134a using pressure gauges (kit comes with conditioning oil) and all was well and it only took about half an hour. A local farmer has all the equipment since he does a lot of AC work for his dairy farm!

$45 well spend at Walmart!

Tom

ducky · 09-01-2011, 04:41 PM

Dont know if anyone is still keeping their R12, but a place in socal-sd, stanco, charges ~$2.50-$3/oz of R12 + $105 leak check + repair (if required).

Mark_Dorman · 09-02-2011, 02:55 AM

just convert. Works better anyways

nuk1ear · 09-08-2011, 03:33 AM

anyone know alot about the AC system? Mine wont switch on (the relay wont switch over) and my AC clutch is disconnected. I hooked it together with some thick gauge wire to test, but the relay still wont click over (i tested the relay and it works fine).

There is a pressure sensor in the system yeh? is it possible to bypass it so i can hook up the AC clutch properly in the engine bay? Engine was removed a long time ago and the AC was never regassed.

I plan to convert soon too.

Bigbacon · 09-11-2011, 10:48 PM

guys who used ES12 stuff,
assume my system is BONE dry, what produts do I need?

I am always really confused about the oil as well. Do ES products contain oil or do you get a can of it?

I was thinking of getting these:

Stop Leak - Vacuum Sealed $6.00
ProDry - ProDry VS $11.00
R-134a R12 Substit Super Seal A/C Recharge Kit - R-134a R12 Stubstit Super Seal A/C Recharge Kit

ES cust Serv tells me not to worry about oil. the compressor I need to install has been off a car for a while as well.

I have the ability to pull vacuum if need be, but if ES products can just be used I'll just give it a go.

People that used ES stuff without pulling vacuum, on systems that weren't used for a while, did you ever run into issues later on?

09-22-2008, 02:07 AM	#61 (permalink)
gussuk REDTOY Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 2 Thanks: 2 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	A/C conversion Thanks guys for the comments. Tom I realize I'm very late on this conversion but if it isn't broke don't fix it. CyFi, I can't remember if it was in this thread or not but I read somewhere that Toyota reduced the load somehow on the compressor as customers were complaining about power loss. When the car was new I took it to the dealer because the A/C didn't seem to have a very cold output. They told me it was doing what it was designed for. Either way I would kind of like it to be a little colder. I haven't heard of anyone complaining about moisture in the air freezing on the cooling unit. Tom, as for the UTube video above, if nothing else the guy was pretty stupid to be sitting in the car when he struck the match. I understand the ES-12a has a pine scent added I'm still wondering if the hoses are long enough to turn the compressor and remove/replace the clutch without removing the gas.

05-21-2009, 09:14 AM	#64 (permalink)
TonyHuynhTwo Cage Fighter Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 154 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I just retrofitted my r-12 system took like five minutes and now my a/c is working fine. A lot of local a/c specialty shops will vacum out your system for free as long as they can keep the r-12 (you gotta call around). Although r-12 and r-134 will turn into a solid when mixed, you don't have to have your system completely flushed out with alchohol or nitrogen if you have it vacumed out. The amount of solid material left in your system would be ridiculously tiny and be concentrated near the leaks in the system plugging them up (as long as your running the car and air conditioner while your doing the retrofit, like you should). The retrofit kit comes with everything you need to be blowing cold the refrigerant, oil, recharging hose, port adapters, and idiot proof instructions. As for the ES refrigerant stuff I honestly have no experience dealing with it, but since the a/c specialist at the place I went to won't even deal with it I'm not going to touch the stuff even if it might blow a couple of degrees colder. My r-134a converted system blows cold and thank god has no leaks. At a cost of just $35, I'm a pretty satisfied customer. Last edited by TonyHuynhTwo; 05-21-2009 at 09:19 AM..

06-22-2009, 05:34 AM	#65 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Still not heraldo. Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Pineapple under the sea Posts: 4,910 Thanks: 18 Thanked 404 Times in 301 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	the solvent flush is to remove the oil necessary for R12. the vacuum pulled is to boil out water, and remove all the air. the conversion kits use conversion ester oil, which isnt fantastic, but works. it gets 100 F in summer here, and im very comfortable in my R134a mr2. my other mr2 i had to kick the fan down a notch because it was too damn cold after a while! i think mine has an excess oil charge or it would be freezing cold too. my R134 will freeze your balls off.. why pump flammable, dangerous stuff into your car? not to mention no one will service or touch a car with substitute refrigerant in it. its been 7 years on my conversion, and its running great how many times do you mind bursting into flames? i prefer zero. __________________ Science fact: If you took all the veins from your body and laid them end to end, you would die.

08-27-2010, 07:13 PM	#69 (permalink)
CJMR2T Fabricator Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Lakeland, FL Posts: 3,678 Thanks: 3 Thanked 353 Times in 335 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	^^^ for starters, liquid gasoline is actually not very flammable, its the vapors that are so volatile. The reason why flammable refrigerants are dangerous and shouldn't be used is cause a leak can occur within the passenger compartment from the evaporator. This brings the danger directly to you.... Back to a fuel leak and fire... there's a reason why we have things called (wait for it!!!!!!) FIREWALLS (something you don't have in the event of a evap leak and an ignition source).... Propane actually makes for a really good refrigerate too but you dont see people using it!! Why?, cause its extremely dangerous... R134 works great if the system is in good working order and if converted, done correctly. Two weeks ago I put the AC back in my girls mr2 and converted it to R134. With ambient temp at 98.4°f and humidity at 100% (central Florida sucks), with control set to record, the vent temps while idling in traffic were at a steady 41.6°F and at a 45mph cruise, they were at a steady 33.9°F. All temp measurements were taken with a K-type thermocouple being read by my Fluke 88 DVM so I know they are dead accurate (within .1°). Last edited by CJMR2T; 08-28-2010 at 10:13 PM..

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09-22-2008, 02:14 AM	#62 (permalink)
CyFi Moved on Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Phoenix Posts: 1,401 Thanks: 12 Thanked 38 Times in 35 Posts iTrader Rating: (11/100% )	get yourself a pocket thermometer and pop it in the vent, your vent temps should be somewhere between 35-50 degrees F

02-24-2009, 11:00 PM	#63 (permalink)
Spyderdan All Skills Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 47 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Its been almost 2 years now that I've been running ES-12a and the A/C is still running great. I ordered a second kit for the white MR2 that I picked up recently and it looks like the enviro-safe kit now comes with a black light along with a thermometer. This round I ordered the kit that included the gauge and valve that connects directly to the r12 fitting on the car so it doesn't require an adapter. My first kit had a 134a end on the gauge and came with adapter fittings that screwed onto the cars r12 port. For $50 dollars shipped it can't be beat: eBay Motors: R-12/R-134a Enviro-Safe Alternate A/C Recharge Kit-R12 (item 390020145758 end time Feb-26-09 04:27:06 PST)

06-22-2009, 11:10 AM	#66 (permalink)
Spyderdan All Skills Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 47 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Yeah flames are cool! (said with Bevis and Butthead voice)

08-27-2010, 08:02 AM	#68 (permalink)
Chromo No Skills Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 5 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Cool Post, pardon the pun LOL I learned allot I think. Well for what it's worth, mostly nothing, here goes. If something works well I don't care if it is flammable. Think about it! REALLY think about it! We have front engine cars with fuel pumps in the rear tank! What is more flammable than 5gals of gas soaking the liner under the hood from some tiny hose leak under 60psi?? Been there done that, open hood and gas ran out of liner like a sponge taken out of a bucket of water. Lucky there was not a spark plug wire arcing out, BOOM! But that is the way cars are made! Not to worried here about a little coolant to deal with. Ever had a leak in line under a car, I have several times, pump in tank just sprays gas forever till you notice you went through about 5 gals in 20 miles! Well you probably smell it before that, hope you are not lighting a cigarette at the time! Yep happened here several times, aren't in the tank pumps so great? All I did was make a mess and loose money on wasted gas, luckily for me and family! Motor home has a propane stove and furnace in it. Hmm, also has an engine between the seats with rubber gas lines flowing gas! Gas lines in houses for stoves, water heaters, furnaces, etc... Yep. I would be really scared of having flammable gas in my cooling system, Gee if there was ever a leak it might be 1/10 as bad as what we already put up with like gasoline leaks!! And think of what high volume it would be compared to unlimited natural gas lines or a 500gal propane tank feeding our homes. Oh the sheer danger of it all, or should I say paranoia? What works best or equal to the best is what I worry about, flammable is least of my concerns figuring all the other more likely ways of blowing ones self up.

08-28-2010, 09:36 PM	#70 (permalink)
Slow_Polk No Skills Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 13 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Does anyone have a recommendation for an O-ring kit? I'm trying to put my system back together and I'd like to replace all the o-rings while it's apart.

08-28-2010, 10:12 PM	#71 (permalink)
CJMR2T Fabricator Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Lakeland, FL Posts: 3,678 Thanks: 3 Thanked 353 Times in 335 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	^^^ Most autoparts stores sell complete O-ring kits... I picked one up from Advanced Auto parts 2 weeks ago when I put the AC back in my girls car. It was like $10 and comes with all and then some (covers many toyota cars thus the reason for extras).

08-07-2011, 09:31 PM	#72 (permalink)
Marvin Lee Some Skills Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 66 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Since this thread was last done over a year ago I wanted to bring it into 2011 standards. Autozone and Advanced both sell a complete retrofit kit that will change your R12 to the current R134a standard. Both charge $54.99 plus tax no matter where you go. I bought the one at Autozone because... I was at Autozone but if I had to choose I'd go with the kit supplied by Advanced Auto mainly because it comes with an instructional DVD, so you won't have to do what I did and look up various DVD's from youtube. The temperature has been around 95 degrees F plus high humidity and the kit works so well that I did something I've never done in my MR@ turbo and that is actually turn the temp up because I was getting too cold! I've read the old post on this thread and all I can say is if R134a can't get you cool in that little cockpit of a car than you are living in HELL! But this thread goes back to 2006 so maybe by now they have perfected the system because all the oils and sealants and mixed into the cans so you don't have to worry about doing any other procedures or changing out ANYTHING! Just add the retrofit nozzles, wait 10 min. for each to seal and start adding R134a. That's it. I do want to mention one thing that worried the hell out of me on when I tried to find out how to make the R12 to R123a conversion. 1. NO ONE said where the damn low and high nozzles were! I guess it was assumes that we all knew that and had downloaded the service manual so for those of you who didn't let me add a pre-quil to that otherwise gread "How To" at the beginning of the thread. To GET TO the low and High nozzle. 1. Lift the front hood. 2. Remove spare tire, and took kit. 3. Remove black shroud that is behind the tire and hiding all the A/C stuff. (There are 4 retainer clips that are holding the shroud. 4. NOW you can see the parts that are listed on the service manual pg. AC-13 5. As stated earlier the service manual is WRONG the low side in on the passenger side and has a black plastic cap holding it. 6. The HIGH side is on the drivers side located down low and has a red brick colored plastic cap on it. Follow the instructions that come with the kits from autozone or Advanced Auto. I do want to mention that this is for people who'c car's A/C system still works and just doesn't blow cold enough. If your system isn't in this condition then don't waste your money on the $60.00 and just take it to a trusted professional.

08-07-2011, 09:48 PM	#73 (permalink)
dragraceman21 race car fabricator Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: st louis missouri Posts: 1,642 Thanks: 126 Thanked 113 Times in 107 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (6/100% )	wow this is an old thread, but since we have brought it back to life lets get things up to date. First of all R-134a is on the way out just like R-12 its being replaced and they are going to stop manufacuring it in a year or so. Im not completely sure but I think the replacement is called 13b, but dont quote me on that. Back to the problem at hand, what to do with the a/c, easy its called "Freeze 12" and as I understand it, it's 50 state legal and should be avalible at any of your local parts stores. Im now the service manager for a classic car dealership and all of the cars we sell were R-12 systems, we use this stuff by the case and it seems to work even better than the R-134a as far as cooling efficantcy. the really good news is its CFC free and doesnt require a licsence to buy or install it and its 100% compatable with R-12 systems with NO conversion.

08-08-2011, 11:24 AM	#74 (permalink)
ennacac No Skills Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	FWIW, the R-134a retrofit kits are not legal to sell in WI, but in MN they are everywhere, so that is where I purchased mine. I have converted 2 vehicles so far (91 Miata, 89 Pathfinder) and they are all blowing cold after 3 years with no issues. I had the R-12 suctioned out, put in the R-134a using pressure gauges (kit comes with conditioning oil) and all was well and it only took about half an hour. A local farmer has all the equipment since he does a lot of AC work for his dairy farm! $45 well spend at Walmart! Tom

09-01-2011, 04:41 PM	#75 (permalink)
ducky The Engineer Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 203 Thanks: 2 Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Dont know if anyone is still keeping their R12, but a place in socal-sd, stanco, charges ~$2.50-$3/oz of R12 + $105 leak check + repair (if required).

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MR2 Technical Knowledgebase - AC Conversion	This thread	Refback	06-10-2008 10:00 PM
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Toyota MR2 Message Board	This thread	Refback	08-24-2007 05:45 AM

09-02-2011, 02:55 AM	#76 (permalink)
Mark_Dorman So long MR2's... Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Pasadena, CA Posts: 4,666 Thanks: 97 Thanked 86 Times in 82 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (26/100% )	just convert. Works better anyways

09-08-2011, 03:33 AM	#77 (permalink)
nuk1ear Cage Fighter Join Date: Jan 2010 Posts: 131 Thanks: 1 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	anyone know alot about the AC system? Mine wont switch on (the relay wont switch over) and my AC clutch is disconnected. I hooked it together with some thick gauge wire to test, but the relay still wont click over (i tested the relay and it works fine). There is a pressure sensor in the system yeh? is it possible to bypass it so i can hook up the AC clutch properly in the engine bay? Engine was removed a long time ago and the AC was never regassed. I plan to convert soon too.

09-11-2011, 10:48 PM	#78 (permalink)
Bigbacon Cage Fighter Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Aldie VA Posts: 998 Thanks: 0 Thanked 45 Times in 43 Posts iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	guys who used ES12 stuff, assume my system is BONE dry, what produts do I need? I am always really confused about the oil as well. Do ES products contain oil or do you get a can of it? I was thinking of getting these: Stop Leak - Vacuum Sealed $6.00 ProDry - ProDry VS $11.00 R-134a R12 Substit Super Seal A/C Recharge Kit - R-134a R12 Stubstit Super Seal A/C Recharge Kit ES cust Serv tells me not to worry about oil. the compressor I need to install has been off a car for a while as well. I have the ability to pull vacuum if need be, but if ES products can just be used I'll just give it a go. People that used ES stuff without pulling vacuum, on systems that weren't used for a while, did you ever run into issues later on?