My New Suspension Parts Have Arrived :)

[5FistsoftheNorthStar]

Wow! Thats all I have to say.

[PCx188]

i need to subscribe to this.

[runabout93]

Wow... if every install instructions could be written that well. I was going to go to pay a garage to do my suspension. Not anymore.... even I can do this. Much thanks Bob!

[proburt]

cant wait for the urathane bushing write up. thats the one I am nervous about doing. I have done them on other vehicles and it wasnt hard just a real bugger to get those old ones out.

[b12ian86]

that's amazing....i was thinking about getting koni's but gzzz these blistens look good...im guessing konis and blistens would feel the same?? both comfortable and handling monsterS?

[Gairloch]

The damper's don't have much to do with the drop, that's all the springs. Koni Yellow ride quality will be significantly better than bilstein. They are also adjustable, bilstein is not.

[Poohhbear9044]

Just a bit of an update to this....after a year of driving around on the Tein springs I finally decided that they were way too harsh for my local roads, these old bones have protested enough

So I have swapped the Tein S-Tech -35mm springs for Eibach Pro-Kit -25mm springs, all I can say is that the comfort level has increased massively, the Eibachs seem to be able to soak up the annoying ripples and bumps in the road surface but still feel nice and firm when throwing it into the corners (maybe because of their progressive nature). The only downside is that the car sits slightly higher and looks a little less agressive, but I suppose you cannot have everything.

Bob

[monopolizedinc]

nice write up but only thing i noticed that i can not conform to be fact or fiction is the use of the lower zip-tie on the strut boot i have always been told you don't tie the lower boot to when you drop the car it will slid all the way down the strut tube and have less chance of getting ripped apart.
joe

[mthreat]

Originally Posted by Poohhbear9044

Just a bit of an update to this....after a year of driving around on the Tein springs I finally decided that they were way too harsh for my local roads, these old bones have protested enough

So I have swapped the Tein S-Tech -35mm springs for Eibach Pro-Kit -25mm springs, all I can say is that the comfort level has increased massively, the Eibachs seem to be able to soak up the annoying ripples and bumps in the road surface but still feel nice and firm when throwing it into the corners (maybe because of their progressive nature).

Thanks for all the info you provided. I have decided to get the Bilsteins, and I already have the Eibach springs on. I have a few questions for you (or anyone else who knows the answers).

You call them Bilstein B6 - are these the same as the Bilstein HD (heavy-duty)? I'm pretty sure these are the only full struts that Bilstein makes for the MkII MR2, but I just wanted to verify.

Also, according to Bilstein, their HD struts are not designed for lowered cars. I called Bilstein USA today and the woman who answered the phone said it's ok as long as the car is dropped less than an inch, and I haven't modified the bumpstops. The Eibach springs are exactly a 1.0" drop, so I'm a little concerned. Can anyone tell me if this is okay, or if I need to pay Bilstein $75 per strut to revalve them? I would rather get their "Sport" struts but they don't make those for the MR2 apparently.

thanks

[Pritch]

That car is super sexy, and so is the writeup

Can i be a noob and ask a silly question. The other night, i went to put new strut 'inserts' onto my 1993 turbo. The struts on there were 'sealed' and there was no way to pull the insert 'out', it's welded. They looked just like the yellow assemblies bob has, but mine are black. Spot welded around the top where the piston goes in.

So that means I Have to go with the full strut assembly, not just the cartridge, right? What's confusing me is that 1) I was under the impression that only 1994 and up were the non-serviceable ones and mines a 1993

and

2) on tire rack, they have koni inserts that say you have to 'cut' the top off the factory strut assembly to fit the new insert into it?!? Can I 'cut' that welded part off the top?? Im thinking not.

I'm still not 100 percent sure which direction to take. It's a JDM car, if that's any different... 1993

If anyone can tell me for sure what I'm missing, I love you long time. I have a picture of my strut when i pulled it out if that helps

thanks everyone
JP

[Poohhbear9044]

Originally Posted by mthreat

Thanks for all the info you provided. I have decided to get the Bilsteins, and I already have the Eibach springs on. I have a few questions for you (or anyone else who knows the answers).

You call them Bilstein B6 - are these the same as the Bilstein HD (heavy-duty)? I'm pretty sure these are the only full struts that Bilstein makes for the MkII MR2, but I just wanted to verify.

Also, according to Bilstein, their HD struts are not designed for lowered cars. I called Bilstein USA today and the woman who answered the phone said it's ok as long as the car is dropped less than an inch, and I haven't modified the bumpstops. The Eibach springs are exactly a 1.0" drop, so I'm a little concerned. Can anyone tell me if this is okay, or if I need to pay Bilstein $75 per strut to revalve them? I would rather get their "Sport" struts but they don't make those for the MR2 apparently.

thanks

All I can say is that I had the Tein S-Tech springs (40mm drop) on for a year and have had the Eibachs on for nearly another year(25mm drop) without any issues at all, no oil leaks from the dampers etc.

Bob

[Poohhbear9044]

Originally Posted by Pritch

That car is super sexy, and so is the writeup

Can i be a noob and ask a silly question. The other night, i went to put new strut 'inserts' onto my 1993 turbo. The struts on there were 'sealed' and there was no way to pull the insert 'out', it's welded. They looked just like the yellow assemblies bob has, but mine are black. Spot welded around the top where the piston goes in.

So that means I Have to go with the full strut assembly, not just the cartridge, right? What's confusing me is that 1) I was under the impression that only 1994 and up were the non-serviceable ones and mines a 1993

and

2) on tire rack, they have koni inserts that say you have to 'cut' the top off the factory strut assembly to fit the new insert into it?!? Can I 'cut' that welded part off the top?? Im thinking not.

I'm still not 100 percent sure which direction to take. It's a JDM car, if that's any different... 1993

If anyone can tell me for sure what I'm missing, I love you long time. I have a picture of my strut when i pulled it out if that helps

thanks everyone
JP

Thanks for the kind comments....when you fit inserts they are held inside the strut casing by a threaded collar which you don't have on sealed units which are fitted to later cars or Bilsteins for that matter. I can't see how you can cut the top off the sealed struts unless the suggestion is that you re-weld them afterwards, and so far in 4 years I've never heard of anyone doing that.

If you want to fit these inserts I suggest you get some secondhand re-buildable struts off an earlier car from a breakers and fit the inserts into them. Then swap them into your car.

Bob

[Pritch]

Thanks, im going to look into it. maybe in the for sale section!

[Gairloch]

Originally Posted by monopolizedinc

nice write up but only thing i noticed that i can not conform to be fact or fiction is the use of the lower zip-tie on the strut boot i have always been told you don't tie the lower boot to when you drop the car it will slid all the way down the strut tube and have less chance of getting ripped apart.
joe

The top of the boot is held up by the bump stop. The bottom is held down by the zip tie. That's a $15 part that is there to protect your damper pistons.

[monopolizedinc]

Originally Posted by Gairloch

The top of the boot is held up by the bump stop. The bottom is held down by the zip tie. That's a $15 part that is there to protect your damper pistons.

the issue i have seen w/ the bottom zip tie is that it over compresses the rubber boot and causes premature failure; if you leave it free it will slide down the strut and keep its shape longer while still protecting the strut tube


ultimate solution... inverted mounted coilover system no worries....yet