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  1. #1
    Cheese it! Mister2.2's Avatar
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    91-95 NA Brake Part Numbers

    Disc Fitting Kit: Includes 8 clips, 4 each side for the rear caliper (2 for each pad)
    Part number: 04948-17030
    Price: $14.59

    Disc Brake Pad Kit, includes 4 rear brake pads
    Part Number: 04466-17030
    Price: $55.44

    All parts bought at Toyota.

  2. #2
    ding! mikeswickednick's Avatar
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    stickyed this real quick. Thanks josh!

  3. #3
    Cage Fighter
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    KyleScha     $ 0.00
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    These are the same part #'s for 1993-1995, correct?

    EDIT: Yeah, they are.
    Last edited by KyleScha; 04-25-2006 at 02:34 PM.

  4. #4
    GenIII Powered Matt94MR2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KyleScha
    These are the same part #'s for 1993-1995, correct?
    Same part#'s for 91-95 NA's. The NA brakes were never changed throughout the model run only the Turbo brakes were changed in '93.

  5. #5
    Cheese it! Mister2.2's Avatar
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    Thanks Matt, thats correct.

  6. #6
    Some Skills Panic's Avatar
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    I am a total Noob so forgive me if I ask stupid questions.
    What is the differance from brakes on a Turbo and a na? I plan to, probably a year or more down the road do a swap. But I need new brakes now. Could I go ahead and have the same brake setup a turbo has now? Before I do the swap? and what would I need, other than pads?

  7. #7
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    91-95 n/a Brakes
    * 1 piston front caliper
    * 1 piston rear caliper
    * 7/8" master cylinder
    * 10.16" front vented rotors
    * 10.34" rear vented rotors

    91-92 Turbo Brakes
    * 2 piston front caliper
    * 1 piston rear caliper
    * same master cylinder as n/a
    * same rotors as n/a

    93-95 Turbo Brakes
    * 2 piston front caliper (larger capacity than the older 2 piston calipers) with different caliper carriers to accommodate the larger rotors.
    * 1 piston rear caliper with different caliper carriers to accommodate the larger rotors.
    * 10.84" front vented rotors (much wider venting)
    * 11.06" rear vented rotors
    * 15/16" master cylinder with different proportioning valve
    Last edited by eggroller; 11-14-2007 at 01:09 PM. Reason: Update information about rotor diameters and master cylinder sizes

  8. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to eggroller For This Useful Post:

    Gairloch (11-10-2007),hmong337 (05-09-2010),mpg (02-23-2009),pearl2 (03-12-2008)

  9. #8
    Dreaming of apexes Gairloch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panic View Post
    I am a total Noob so forgive me if I ask stupid questions.
    What is the differance from brakes on a Turbo and a na? I plan to, probably a year or more down the road do a swap. But I need new brakes now. Could I go ahead and have the same brake setup a turbo has now? Before I do the swap? and what would I need, other than pads?
    What you need to do a turbo brake swap minimally is:
    • calipers/brackets
    • rotors
    • pads


    Strongly encouraged to also get:
    • brake master cylinder
    • turbo brake proportioning valve


    Not so important:
    • turbo brake dust shields
    • turbo vacuum booster


    You're not going to see much difference between turbo and NA brakes in a daily driver unless you're driving too hard for public streets. If you're using the car on the track where heat becomes an issue then using a high quality brake pad, DOT4 brake fluid and stainless steel lines is also a pretty good idea.

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    mpg (02-23-2009)

  11. #9
    the 1967gt500...the gt500 pearl2's Avatar
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    I'm doing the 91 turbo brake upgrade on my n/a that has no abs do I still need a turbo brake proportioning valve and mc? also do you have any recomendations for ss brake lines, & slotted/drilled rotors??

  12. #10
    Dreaming of apexes Gairloch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pearl2 View Post
    I'm doing the 91 turbo brake upgrade on my n/a that has no abs do I still need a turbo brake proportioning valve and mc? also do you have any recomendations for ss brake lines, & slotted/drilled rotors??
    Depends a little bit on what kind of driving you do. You definitely need the MC. If you're not taking the car to the race track and doing a lot of threshold braking then the prop valve isn't a big deal. (Although why you'd do a brake conversion if you're NOT tracking is is beyond me ) If you are using the car for HPDE or autox where threshold braking is important then yes, you do need the prop valve. Without it you end up with a rear brake bias.

    I have the Earl's Hyperfirm SS lines on my car and am thoroughly unimpressed by them. They do the job but the fitment is rubbish. When you're shopping for SS lines make sure that whatever you end up with is coated. Uncoated SS lines can have sand and gunk get caught in the weave and cause corrosion.

    If you're more interested in stopping well than you are in bling then just say no to crossdrilled/slotted rotors. Check out the braking forum for more information.

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