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#1 (permalink)
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Cage Fighter
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I didn't write this for yall, as most of you guys have obviously not experienced leaking valve cover gaskets. (yet) I figured maybe some of you guys doing your swaps could save a lot of trouble for yourself down the road.
This is a "your thoughts" thread. I'm not saying this is how to do it (Tho This is what I've done). (For the remainder of the thread VCG - Valve Cover Gasket. RVCG - Specifying the REAR Valve Cover Gasket, FVCG - You are a moron if you need this definition) It's obvious Toyota's implementation for the v6's doesn't work. Blame whatever you want, but there is no arguing the fact that it simply does not work. Worse, nearly every engine has a VCG leaking to some extinct, almost EVER engine will have the RVCG leaking over time. IMHO it's from a culmination of two things: 1) I don't like the groove style VCG. The flat engine's use corker, rubber"ish", or rubber/steel core gaskets & have less problems. Not only that, but it is advantageous in that if it is ever replaced (for any reason) you simply use a tube of gasket maker & the seal is nearly indefinite. When applied correctly, they won't leak until you break the seal! 2) Improper valve cover gasket bolt torque. Even tho the rubber gasket provides some tension on the cylinder head bolts, the spec is 4.3-5.75ft-lb. They easily get loose, or are extremely over tightened when repaired. 3) 1 & 2 are compounded by the huge rearward angle the v6's are tilted at. So I'm sick of it. Sick of hearing about it. Sick of most of us considering it a "routine maintenance" item that should be replaced every time someone is going near them. "Oh well you're getting X done, Have them do the VCG's before they start to leak!" etc. Here's how I think we deal with it once & solve it for the last damn time. Supply list: Ultra Black RTV. RTV is *the* gasket "brand" of choice by everyone. Ultra Black is a premium line, and Permatex's most oil resistant RTV gasket. Even better. It is apply & go. (Non-premium RTV's need time to setup when mounted & some need to be re-torqued.) It could take 2 tubes. I used 1. Thread Locker (Medium - Loc-tite & Permatex Blue) M7-1 Tap Acetone, Paper towels, Q-tips. (Ya, ya Alcohol works, Acetone just eats oil so much faster tho! Ventilated area for both) Scraper (or something with a flat edge you can level with) 1) Clean the gasket mating surfaces with Acetone. I find you can push paper towels through the groove, but a few Q-tips make very short work of it & you can be sure you've cleaned it thoroughly. 2) Completely fill the groove with RTV & scrape it flat so that it's a flush surface. 3) Run your tap down the threads of the valve cover bolt holes. This will clean the threads up. 4) (After the RTV has cured - 24 hours) Apply your "normal" 1/4" bead of RTV as a normal application. 5) (IMMEDIATELY) Put valve cover on & bolt it down. Since we're no longer using a "light pressure to seal" gasket. Torque the valve covers down to say 18-20ft-lb. Using online calculators: The stock bolt & hole threads have a Recommended Torque of 15.2 ft-lb & Maximum Torque of 20.2 ft-lb (Not freaking 4-5ft-lb!?) I don't think it would be wise to drill & tap for a larger size, tho someone could. It'd be hard to drill large enough to have good threads, without having some huge bolt running down it. (I just don't think there is any reason for like an M10. Those would hold 40-50ft-lb! That's above the head gasket range!) Anywho... That's what I did. If someone had some money, you could also JB Weld the groove full. JB Weld is awesome on Aluminum. They expand at virtually the same rate @ the same temperature. Or just weld it full... |
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#2 (permalink) |
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3.4L 10K RPM In the works
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Vancouver, BC
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pimp yo....never had a VCG leak in both the mr2 and my 250k km tacoma
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#3 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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^ 5vz-fe & not transversly mounted from the factory.
It's pretty common for them all to slowly leak. Look at the block around the gasket on engines that have had a ton of miles on them. Somewhere you'll find a good 'ole nasty oil stain from where it's leak'n from the VCG! It's just not normally an issue as unless it's dripping on the exhaust. Hitting the exhaust happens a lot more often once that engine is trasverse & rocked back some. (IDK how yall mount the engines in the mr2's, or if the extreme transverse mounting toyota installs them for us has anything to do with anyhting, but... I leave you with a thought. The 3vz-e & 5vz-fe are not bad to noticeably leak, while the RVCG, rear main seal & rear head gasket cause 90% of the leaks for the transverse v6's - all while using the same parts & manufacturing! ) |
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#4 (permalink) |
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3.4L 10K RPM In the works
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 8,895
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it all depends on how the little japanese guy's day has gone in the factorys...did he get laid last night? yes no? is it friday?
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#6 (permalink) |
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Mild Steel = Big Gains
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: WNC
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Cool idea, thanks.
If my valve covers start leaking ill definatly do this ![]() |
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#7 (permalink) |
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ding!
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: nj/fla
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sticky? stickey!
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LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.mr2.com/forums/mk-2-v6/Toyota-MR2-2650-solving-valve-cover-gaskets-permanently.html
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| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| MR2 Technical Knowledgebase | This thread | Refback | 07-12-2008 10:06 PM | |
| MR2 Technical Knowledgebase - Solving The Valve Cover Gaskets, Permanently | This thread | Refback | 05-19-2008 09:31 PM | |