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#182 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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i've had the stock y-pipe mated to the stock NA b-pipe cat and flange. there's not much to it. it's just exhaust piping, cut, fit, and weld. Going under the cross member will be easier. I had it like this and there was no scraping. it only started scraping when I went up to 2.5 inch piping. Honestly, the stock y-pipe is really restrictive and you should replace it. If you have to do a smog check in Pa, the small cat on the b-pipe may not allow you to pass and it would be better to just use a full sized cat instead.
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#183 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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Most stock mufflers are restrictive to keep the noise down. It will work for a v6 but obviously it will not flow as much as a straight through magnaflow or borla muffler.
i think it should work fine with the stock y-pipe until a new one can be fabbed up. I'm pretty sure that the stock exhaust system on the camry or es300 was restrictive as hell. |
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#184 (permalink) |
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Some Skills
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Weatherly, PA
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No smog in my area of PA, just visual inspection, so as long as I am not too loud for town ordinances and have a cat inplace, plus a muffler, I'm legal.
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#185 (permalink) | |
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No Skills
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Quote:
I find it easier to start building the exhaust from the muffler and working back. you should position the tip at the angle you want with a jack stand, bolt the remain b-pipe to the muffler, and then use the 90* bend to connect the cat to the y-pipe. Once you have everything in place put down a few tack welds, unbolt the modified y-pipe from the engine and support it with a jack stand then unbolt it from the muffler, remove and finish welding. You should also consider throwing a few coats of paint on there to keep it from rusting. I like use BBQ grill paint. It's held up great so far. Good Luck!!!! |
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#186 (permalink) |
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Some Skills
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Weatherly, PA
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Thanks for the info, but like I said I have a long time to go before getting to that point.
What makes going over the cross member so much harder, does the stock v6 y pipe naturally want to go above or below it, and if above does it clear everything or not? |
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#187 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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the y-pipe just goes straight out to the back. It's not imposible to go over the crossmember, just not worth the trouble of the extra work in cutting and ligning things up. IMHO, I see this as only a temporary solution to get you by. If you have the funds you should just build a new y-pipe and muffler setup with it going over the crossmember. The y-pipe I built cost me about 50 to 70 dollars in materials and 9 hours of going at it with a grinder/cut-off wheel and a 100 dollar welder (already owned) spread out over 3 to 4 nights.
I'm sure someone with access to more acurate cutting equipment and a better welder could've put together one in a lot less time. |
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#188 (permalink) |
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Lord Anti-Rice
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Roseville, CA
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There is space to go up and over the crossmember, but you have to cut the Camry engine mount off of the carrier bearing bracket (or use a bracket from a late model Sienna, which doesn't have a mount there).
my y-connector is directly beneath the crossmember and I have had no issues with scraping. |
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#189 (permalink) |
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Mr2 V6 #8
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Syracuse, Ny
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The stock y-pipe has a want to go through the crossmember on the mr2's...
If you plan to go under the crossmember, you could always do as toyota has on the V6 tacomas... make the diameter a lil larger going under the crossmember and slightly flatten it. |
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#190 (permalink) |
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All Torque, All the Time
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
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^ Indeed, volume is all about crossectional area. Wide and flat would work just fine.
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#191 (permalink) |
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RAAAGE!
Join Date: Aug 2005
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where could you get a flange/pipe for that? im reworking my exhaust and i plan to put a flex pipe before it reaches the xmember so i can have room for the cat/resonator
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#192 (permalink) |
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insert clever comment..
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Fussa Shi - JAPAN
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#193 (permalink) |
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Some Skills
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Weatherly, PA
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A press would "flatten" a pipe nicely... also if you don't flatten the whole thing you could still use regular flanges, or else just make you're own. Then you'd have to make a gasket too.
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#194 (permalink) |
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All Torque, All the Time
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
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Only the area under the crossmember needs to be flattened. I wouldn't expect to change the rest of the pipe to require different flanges.
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#195 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2007
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well here's pics of my setup finally..
JP Performance headers and Y-pipe custom made starting from the collector >3" piping all the way back> 3'' Magnaflow High flow cat > Blitz Type-SS exhaust (old school) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#196 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2007
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![]() ![]() ![]() and out the hole ![]() |
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#197 (permalink) |
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Driving MR2s since '89
Join Date: Mar 2006
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Very nice... Where did you source the components (2-to-1 collector, short flex section, V-band joints)? I will be doing exhaust fab soon, although I'll be using the stock headers, Fujisubo Legalis-R muffler and as much of the Fujisubo B-pipe (3") as I can
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#198 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2007
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from JP performance. i had them just stop the piping right before the collector and have them include the essential parts like the collector, the flex pipe, extra mandrel bent piping, etc.
the V-bands and extra bungs i sourced from atp-turbo up here in hayward,ca |
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#199 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Des Moines, IA
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Werd, I buy all my stuff from ATP as well. Vbands, flex's and other raw materials.
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#200 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Wow. Nice exhaust mr2hybrid93. Is it loud with that 3"? Any rasp to it? Do you think you could post a sound clip of that?
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