3vz, why do i feel down on power? any ideas? - Page 2

Mark_Dorman · 05-27-2009, 08:16 PM

It's pretty easy to replace. Not sure how easy it will be to find one. Check car-part.com

RandomHero · 05-28-2009, 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark_Dorman

It's pretty easy to replace. Not sure how easy it will be to find one. Check car-part.com

isnt car-part.com basically an online junkyard search?

the local u-pull it here has 3 3vz's that i know of. all havent had anything removed from them, except the ac compressor and p/s pump(im an idiot) on 1. but 1 is outr of the car and in direct sunlight, but still "virgin" if you will.

RandomHero · 05-28-2009, 02:37 AM

ill prolly see about getting the whole unit this weekend, as im already going to get a starter. mine clicks, and spins but doesnt engage. so ima pull it apart and "rebuild" it for the knowledge but still trade it in for the core charge.

CurtsMR2 · 06-27-2009, 09:38 PM

I would check the mechnical timing (timing belt). if it's off by one tooth it will run but be low on power. Hey it's worth a look....Curt

Jason.MZW20 · 06-28-2009, 12:50 AM

Sounds like quite an issue. Where is the igniter located in your engine compartment? The igniter will want to be bolted to the chassis for a good ground. A mechanical timing check is also a good idea. A leakdown test might be worth doing if the motor hasn't been torn down. Or you can do the simpler compression test too. I'm at the upper end of the compression range since my engine was completely torn down.

You should also check your fuel pressure. Should be around 60-80 psi from the pump, then 43-44 psi at the rails as the FPR returns the unneeded fuel. Was the fuel pump ever replaced?

It definitely shouldn't feel like that. My rebuilt 1MZ pulls like a monster in all gears and I'm using the longer geared S51. 1st gear WOT practically pushes me hard into my seat like I'm gonna merge with it. It gives me quite an adrenaline rush (similar to the on-boost feel of a turbo, but off-idle).

RandomHero · 07-01-2009, 03:39 AM

all of these good ideas.

thanks ill check them out. unfortunatly my 3vz is no longer in the mr2 at the moment. i broke a motor mount bolt, and in the process of trying to get it out, i found out why the car was so damn cheap.

the motor is no longer in the car, as well as the rear hubs/exhaust/rear suspension.

i have a tear down thread if anyone wants to see.

Mark_Dorman · 07-01-2009, 01:19 PM

So why was the car so cheap? That sucks that you're running into all these problems

Jason.MZW20 · 07-01-2009, 03:06 PM

Worst case scenario: You might have to rewire everything if it didn't come with detailed pin-outs. Better to be safe than pull over on fire.

RandomHero · 07-02-2009, 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark_Dorman

So why was the car so cheap? That sucks that you're running into all these problems

the wiring is horrible, its a nightmare. i knew this from the beggining, but im gonna completely redo it. ima start with a new camry harness. and use paul woods write up on how to do it.

if youre a member over on mr2oc, you can see my thread of the tare down over there
MR2 Owners Club Message Board™

basically, how the motor STAYED in the car as long as it did is beyond me. a few weeks ago i broke the passanger side motor mount bolt. thats the one that supports the weight of the motor, i should seen it coming if i broke a weight bearing bolt. and i should seen it coming when i drove it 10 miles to my workspace and the motor sagged 2 inches.

cabin side mount, wasnt even attached to the motor.
driver side mount was hand tight
trunk side mount was tight on the block, but 1 bolt held it to the frame.
passanger side mount, i broke 1 bolt, stripped another in the 10 mile drive, and the 3rd bolt wasnt even there.

Mark_Dorman · 07-02-2009, 11:00 PM

Wow...that sucks. If you were in the area i'd come give you a hand. Paul Woods is the master as the V6 swap. His write up is what I'll be using as well. How's the motor mount on the passenger side look? If it's crap you can order one from FourVeeSix on TwoBrutal. His pieces are really nice.

RandomHero · 07-03-2009, 04:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark_Dorman

Wow...that sucks. If you were in the area i'd come give you a hand. Paul Woods is the master as the V6 swap. His write up is what I'll be using as well. How's the motor mount on the passenger side look? If it's crap you can order one from FourVeeSix on TwoBrutal. His pieces are really nice.

actually its the same mount, the guy who owned the car ordered it. but the guy who did the swap, "modified" the mount. i dont know how. i think he used a different piece on the actual mount to the frame. but its the same ive been told.

really my only issue right now with the mounts is that i need to retap the stripped bolt, and i need to "easy out" the bolt that broke. im gonna get new bushings cause the one on the passanger side actually kinda fell apart on me, which i wasnt surprised from the car being 19 y/o, so im just gonna get new bushiinhs and new bolts for all of them.

right now the harness is whats my main goal. ima redo it using paul woods righ up.

DaveMush · 07-03-2009, 12:10 PM

to my knowledge, the bushings arn't available by themselves from Toyota... you'll have to create your own with urethane, or find someone who makes more thna just the torque mounts out of urethane.

RandomHero · 07-03-2009, 04:46 PM

twosrus makes these.

Twos R Us - Parts for Toyotas from Club MR2

im sure i can use these.

DaveMush · 07-03-2009, 09:20 PM

that is just the front and rear torque mounts.

RandomHero · 07-03-2009, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveMush

that is just the front and rear torque mounts.

yea, i cant read either. ill have to do something for the left and right.

Aurelius · 10-01-2009, 02:28 PM

I don't have a v6 mr2 myself but I've been doing a bit of research. I've found that although the stock N/A tranny will work for the 3vz, if you look at the gearing for the tranny and the powerband of the 3vz on a dynograph you'll see that the majority of your RPM at WOT (assuming your shfiting close to redline) will fall behind the climb and peak of the curve. Giving the feeling that it's dying on power as you climb in RPM (because it is).

4v6 · 10-01-2009, 04:17 PM

First up would be to check the diagnostic codes from the ecu surely?

Obviously if the motors no longer in the car thatll be hard!

If youve got no idea of the history of the motor id also be inclined to check the cams are correctly timed ( inside the cam covers) as its quite easy for these to be out if done carelessly.
Can only otherwise second what others have said.

regarding the mount; How was it "modified"? If its one of mine it shouldnt need any additional stuff doing to it.

Got a photo at all?

RandomHero · 10-03-2009, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4v6

First up would be to check the diagnostic codes from the ecu surely?

Obviously if the motors no longer in the car thatll be hard!

If youve got no idea of the history of the motor id also be inclined to check the cams are correctly timed ( inside the cam covers) as its quite easy for these to be out if done carelessly.
Can only otherwise second what others have said.

regarding the mount; How was it "modified"? If its one of mine it shouldnt need any additional stuff doing to it.

Got a photo at all?

yea, its yours. it has your stamp.

it looks like it was an earlier version of your possibly. ive seen pics of yours and they all look nice. mine looks like some of the welds are semi sloppy. but im not complaining. it works.

RandomHero · 10-03-2009, 11:33 AM

oh i failed to mention, i took the spark plugs out, and 1 of them wasnt even torqued down at all causing it to be full of oil, im assuming this was a primary factor in why it could possibly have been down on power. and my possibly random CEL.

but untill i get everything back going, there is no way to know.

10-01-2009, 02:28 PM	#36 (permalink)
Aurelius No Skills Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	A thought I don't have a v6 mr2 myself but I've been doing a bit of research. I've found that although the stock N/A tranny will work for the 3vz, if you look at the gearing for the tranny and the powerband of the 3vz on a dynograph you'll see that the majority of your RPM at WOT (assuming your shfiting close to redline) will fall behind the climb and peak of the curve. Giving the feeling that it's dying on power as you climb in RPM (because it is).

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05-27-2009, 08:16 PM	#21 (permalink)
Mark_Dorman And the V6 swap continues Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Pasadena, CA Posts: 4,125 Thanks: 73 Thanked 72 Times in 68 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (19/100% )	It's pretty easy to replace. Not sure how easy it will be to find one. Check car-part.com

05-28-2009, 02:37 AM	#23 (permalink)
RandomHero Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 104 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	ill prolly see about getting the whole unit this weekend, as im already going to get a starter. mine clicks, and spins but doesnt engage. so ima pull it apart and "rebuild" it for the knowledge but still trade it in for the core charge.

06-27-2009, 09:38 PM	#24 (permalink)
CurtsMR2 No Skills Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 10 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	I would check the mechnical timing (timing belt). if it's off by one tooth it will run but be low on power. Hey it's worth a look....Curt

06-28-2009, 12:50 AM	#25 (permalink)
Jason.MZW20 Torque Me!!! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Victorville, CA Posts: 875 Thanks: 12 Thanked 72 Times in 63 Posts Blog Entries: 6 iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Sounds like quite an issue. Where is the igniter located in your engine compartment? The igniter will want to be bolted to the chassis for a good ground. A mechanical timing check is also a good idea. A leakdown test might be worth doing if the motor hasn't been torn down. Or you can do the simpler compression test too. I'm at the upper end of the compression range since my engine was completely torn down. You should also check your fuel pressure. Should be around 60-80 psi from the pump, then 43-44 psi at the rails as the FPR returns the unneeded fuel. Was the fuel pump ever replaced? It definitely shouldn't feel like that. My rebuilt 1MZ pulls like a monster in all gears and I'm using the longer geared S51. 1st gear WOT practically pushes me hard into my seat like I'm gonna merge with it. It gives me quite an adrenaline rush (similar to the on-boost feel of a turbo, but off-idle).

07-01-2009, 03:39 AM	#26 (permalink)
RandomHero Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 104 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	all of these good ideas. thanks ill check them out. unfortunatly my 3vz is no longer in the mr2 at the moment. i broke a motor mount bolt, and in the process of trying to get it out, i found out why the car was so damn cheap. the motor is no longer in the car, as well as the rear hubs/exhaust/rear suspension. i have a tear down thread if anyone wants to see.

07-01-2009, 01:19 PM	#27 (permalink)
Mark_Dorman And the V6 swap continues Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Pasadena, CA Posts: 4,125 Thanks: 73 Thanked 72 Times in 68 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (19/100% )	So why was the car so cheap? That sucks that you're running into all these problems

07-01-2009, 03:06 PM	#28 (permalink)
Jason.MZW20 Torque Me!!! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Victorville, CA Posts: 875 Thanks: 12 Thanked 72 Times in 63 Posts Blog Entries: 6 iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Worst case scenario: You might have to rewire everything if it didn't come with detailed pin-outs. Better to be safe than pull over on fire.

07-02-2009, 11:00 PM	#30 (permalink)
Mark_Dorman And the V6 swap continues Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Pasadena, CA Posts: 4,125 Thanks: 73 Thanked 72 Times in 68 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (19/100% )	Wow...that sucks. If you were in the area i'd come give you a hand. Paul Woods is the master as the V6 swap. His write up is what I'll be using as well. How's the motor mount on the passenger side look? If it's crap you can order one from FourVeeSix on TwoBrutal. His pieces are really nice.

07-03-2009, 12:10 PM	#32 (permalink)
DaveMush Mr2 V6 #8 Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Syracuse, Ny Posts: 379 Thanks: 0 Thanked 11 Times in 9 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	to my knowledge, the bushings arn't available by themselves from Toyota... you'll have to create your own with urethane, or find someone who makes more thna just the torque mounts out of urethane.

07-03-2009, 04:46 PM	#33 (permalink)
RandomHero Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 104 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	twosrus makes these. Twos R Us - Parts for Toyotas from Club MR2 im sure i can use these.

07-03-2009, 09:20 PM	#34 (permalink)
DaveMush Mr2 V6 #8 Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Syracuse, Ny Posts: 379 Thanks: 0 Thanked 11 Times in 9 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	that is just the front and rear torque mounts.

10-01-2009, 04:17 PM	#37 (permalink)
4v6 Cage Fighter Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 134 Thanks: 1 Thanked 22 Times in 12 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	First up would be to check the diagnostic codes from the ecu surely? Obviously if the motors no longer in the car thatll be hard! If youve got no idea of the history of the motor id also be inclined to check the cams are correctly timed ( inside the cam covers) as its quite easy for these to be out if done carelessly. Can only otherwise second what others have said. regarding the mount; How was it "modified"? If its one of mine it shouldnt need any additional stuff doing to it. Got a photo at all?

10-03-2009, 11:33 AM	#39 (permalink)
RandomHero Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 104 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	oh i failed to mention, i took the spark plugs out, and 1 of them wasnt even torqued down at all causing it to be full of oil, im assuming this was a primary factor in why it could possibly have been down on power. and my possibly random CEL. but untill i get everything back going, there is no way to know.